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After four tours, approximately 13 kilometres of walking, three portions of banh cuon, a kilo of extra weight and enough sugar to dissolve a few dozen teeth, my food tour adventure in Hanoi is over. It's reinvigorated my love of street food and inspired me to try a few new places, but which was the best?

When money's no object

Following the old-adage of "you get what you pay for", if budget was not a consideration then without question I would go on the priciest tour, Hanoi Street Food Tours. In fact, when our next big pay cheque comes in I'm going to encourage my boyfriend to go on it as I enjoyed it so much. It wasn't just the food, much of which was new to me, but also Mark's (or Tu's) agreeable company and wealth of knowledge.

But there's no denying it's expensive: despite inflation, US$75 gets you a lot in Hanoi, and perhaps dinner at one of the city's top restaurants holds more appeal. Me, though, I'd opt for their street food tour.

The colours of Hanoi.

Avoiding the crowds

If you want a more budget-friendly tour then you'll need to join a group. Three of the tours I tried were group ones, with participants ranging in number from three to five guests, although all would take up to eight. Three is a good number, five is pushing it, and eight would be too many.

Ours came in a bowl but these are prettier.

Bigger groups might be just about fine when you're sitting at a table, eating, but in reality a lot of time is spent walking around hectic Old Quarter and it can be difficult to pick up on information offered by the guide if there are too many people standing around.

And, of course, street food stalls aren't generally set up for large groups, unless you're eating hotpot or at a bia hoi joint. Unfortunately you don't get to influence the number of guests and might end up in a larger group; so if you don't like crowds, stump up and opt for a private tour.

As well as Hanoi Street Food Tour, which only provides private tours, Well Eaten Path (with Daniel Hoyer) offers a private tour option and Vietnam Awesome Travel's Food on Foot tour can be taken as a private tour for US$38, so is worth considering as a cheaper alternative.

Food versus tour of Old Quarter

One of the reasons that the Hanoi Cooking Centre tour was so good is that the guide - a KOTO-trained chef -- was evidently passionate and knowledgeable about food and really enhanced the experience: this was all about the food, with no distractions. The same was true of the Hanoi Street Food Tour.

A sticky rice production line.

The Food on Foot tour managed to achieve a reasonable balance between being an introduction to street food, the Old Quarter and the history of Vietnam: our guide didn't have a particular passion for food, but knew her stuff and the ad hoc stops to try food on sale along the street was a nice touch. The Urban Adventures tour was similar in concept, in that it merged a walking tour with eating, but somehow fell too far on the side of walking tour of Old Quarter to really feel like a street food adventure. Of these two, which are similarly priced, the Food on Foot tour comes more highly recommended from us (more food stops for a start).

Hidden spots or tourist traps

It's inevitable that tours will sometimes end up at well-documented venues. Inevitable in part because these are often well-known spots for a reason: the food's good. Also, some tour operators are keen to stick to places that have been vetted and offer a certain level of hygiene.

For some, this is a perfect introduction -- street food with security - but what about if you've already dipped your toe in the world of pho and bun cha and are looking for a tour that can show you the real off-the-beaten track spots and introduce you to new dishes? This is a very subjective area, as off-the-beaten track for some might be everyday and boring for others. To generalise, however, the two more expensive tours went to less touristy places. Of course, if you have specific requests - food you want to try or to avoid - you'll need to book onto a private tour and discuss your requirements in advance.

Unfortunately theyre cooked in herbs, not beer.

Although I didn't test it out again, the short tours from Hidden Hanoi - which I reviewed in August 2011 - take place outside of Old Quarter, although try quite standard dishes such as pho and bun cha.

Where the food comes from

A wet market, or street market, should be a must-see on any visit to Vietnam, certainly for a foodie, and visiting with a knowledgeable guide is recommended. So it makes sense to include it with a street food tour.

The market tour with Hanoi Cooking Centre was excellent: it was a real tour, rather than a quick walk through, as Y took time to show us different produce and prompt us to try tasters. A market visit, or two, are also included with Hanoi Street Food Tours' itinerary.

Urban Adventures' Hanoi Street Food by Night tour includes a walk around the outskirts of Dong Xuan market and the nearby street market. It's lively and interesting to observe, but no commentary was provided on the tour I took, except when prompted. The Foot on Foot tour didn't include a market visit.

In summary

Because the tours are all different, in terms of price and time of day, and you'll all be turned on by different things, it's difficult to make a one-size-fits-all recommendation. Quality decreases as price decreases, but that's not to say that you should avoid the cheaper options.

The Food on Foot tour was a close comparison to Hanoi Cooking Centre's offer, at half the price, but it did lack the market visit and the benefit of having a chef as a guide. With no doubt though, we highly recommend doing some kind of street food tour while you're in Hanoi: read our posts, see what sounds good and book on!

Banh Cuon - a common stop on street food tours.

Banh cuon a popular dish tried on street food tours.

More details

Food on Foot
19B Hang Be Street, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
T: (04) 3990 1733/3994 2555
http://vietnamawesometravel.com
Our full review

Hanoi Cooking Centre
44 Chau Long Street, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi
T: (04) 3715 0088 / 3715 3277
http://www.hanoicookingcentre.com
Our full review

Hanoi Street Food Tours
http://streetfoodtourshanoi.blogspot.com/
Our full review

Hidden Hanoi
147 Nghi Tam Road, Hanoi
T: (091) 225 4045
http://www.hiddenhanoi.com.vn/
Our full review

Urban Adventures
T: (0904) 193 308
http://www.urbanadventures.com/
Our full review

Well Eaten Path
Daniel Hoyer (True Colour Tour)
18 Hang Be, Hanoi (inside Provecho)
T: (01689) 451 062
http://www.eatingvietnam.com
Our full review

Considering the average price of a hotel room in Singapore has risen into the 'ridiculously expensive' range, it's no surprise that a new crop of hostels has opened to fill the void of somewhere to sleep for S$20-50 per night. Whether you're looking for a pod-style bed with extra privacy or a designer hostel with high-tech amenities, you'll find it among our picks for the best hostels in Singapore 2013.

One of our all-around favourites is Bunc@Radius Hostel (Agoda) in the Little India neighbourhood. It's a huge hostel with 233 beds, yet nearly half its space is set aside for cool communal areas like the movie room (free popcorn on movie nights), spacious sundeck, computer lounge with choice of brand-new Macs or PCs and a full kitchen with a proper coffee machine. There's also a lounge exclusively for female guests. Bunc is solid value at S$20-40 for a night in the dorm, including breakfast and WiFi, or S40-$80 for a double dorm bed, perfect for travelling couples.

Cozy digs at Bunc.

Also in Little India, we recommend Lofi Inn (Agoda) and The Mitraa (Agoda). Lofi opened in 2012 and is notable for its small dorm rooms with ensuite bathrooms you'll never be sharing with more than eight people. When it's time for entertainment, there's an open-air lounge and a rooftop bar. A night at Lofi is also one of Singapore's best bargains starting at S$23. The Mitraa is a bit further from the action (and the MRT station), but we love its homey atmosphere, squeaky clean rooms and super-friendly staff. A night in a dorm (your choice of mixed or female-only) is S$26 including a hearty breakfast, but they also offer private rooms with shared toilets from S$110 per night families with children are welcome.

Pretty in pink at Lofi.

If you love hostel prices but hate the idea of strangers watching you sleep, you'll love the extra privacy offered by Singapore's new pod hostels". The best of the bunch is ultra-modern Wink Hostel (Agoda) in Chinatown. Guests sleep in a cosy cube with a thick mattress, duvet and soundproof walls. Each room is individually decorated and security is top-notch thanks to keycards that only open the door to the room with your bed and your security locker. A single pod will set you back S$50 per night or, for traveling couples, there are pods with a double bed for S$90. Prices may be high for a hostel, but do include lightning fast WiFi, breakfast, all-day coffee and tea and the use of the high-tech amenities like a 3D TV, Wii console and guest computers.

You'll sleep a wink at Wink.

Also highly recommended is Adler Hostel (Agoda), which lives up to its claim of being "Singapore's first luxury hostel". The two dorm rooms (one mixed, one females-only) conjure memories of first-class sleeper trains, with two tiers of beds, each with a privacy curtain. Inside you'll find hotel-quality bedding, a locker, reading lamp and universal powerpoint, and each pod-bed is spacious enough to stretch out with a laptop and Facebook in complete privacy. We also love the ornately decorated lobby where you can use the guest computers or browse their library of travel books, and the excitement of Chinatown is right outside the door. The rack rate is S$60 including WiFi and a light breakfast, or book in advance for discounts.

Singapore's first lux hostel?

If you're looking for a more traditional hostel, check out 5 Stones Hostel (Agoda), located a stone's throw from the scenic Singapore River. The staff understand the needs of travellers and for as little as S$30 per night you get a clean, cool place to sleep and a long list of freebies including continental breakfast until 11:00, WiFi, toiletries and use of the washer/dryer (just supply your own laundry detergent). The hostel takes its name from a traditional Singaporean children's game and makes an effort to celebrate Singaporean culture with funky murals by local artists and great tips on where to find the best hawker food.

Free breakfast!

If 5 Stones happens to be full, right above it in the same building is Singapore's first capsule hotel, Woke Home (Agoda). Prices are higher from S$42 per night, but you do get more privacy and your own personal TV.

Woke: Your home capsule away from home capsule.

If you're concerned about your carbon footprint as you travel the world, consider the Tree In Lodge. This is Singapore's first green hostel with eco-friendly practices like recycling, low-flow showers and recycled furnishings. It's also centrally located in Bugis, a great place to meet like-minded people and a good deal at S$27 per night including WiFi and breakfast. If you're exploring Asia by bicycle (as some Travelfish-ers have done in the past), you'll get a 50% discount and the hostel staff will happily find a safe place to store your bike.

Of course, Singapore has many other excellent hostels, so check out the Singapore accommodation listings by neighbourhood to learn more about oldies-but-goodies like The Betel Box Hostel, Hangout @ Mount Emily and Little Red Dot.

It was a frigid winter day in the US state of Vermont when I first met with a recently resettled refugee family back in 2008. The resettlement program had told me they were Burmese, so I was confused when only one 17-year old family member could understand what was written in an English-Burmese phrasebook. I soon learned how they were part of the ethnic Karen minority, displaced by the world's longest-running civil war.

The family of five fled their home village in the mountainous Burma-Thailand border region 10 years earlier when it was attacked and torched by the Burmese military. With a two-year-old in tow, they escaped to Thailand by way of a dangerous path through the jungle, travelling only under the cover of darkness. If the Burmese army had caught them, they almost certainly would have been put to forced labour, possibly as landmine detectors, or shot on sight.

Young Karen take part in cultural activities near Sangkhlaburi, Thailand.

Thousands of Karen have met tragic ends like these after grievances with Burma's central military government unravelled into an all-out armed struggle following World War II. The conflict has persisted in some form to this day, and despite recent positive reforms in Burma, human rights abuses by the military continue against several of the country's many ethnic minorities.

After reaching Thai soil, the family were placed in a refugee camp in the far western reaches of Kanchanaburi province. They were among the thousands of refugees who have sought safety in Thailand after the Burmese government launched increasingly brutal military offensives against the Karen beginning in the late 1980s. These attacks toppled much of the Karen State, a border area and home to the Karen that had been precariously controlled by the Karen National Liberation Army (KNLA), the military wing of the Karen National Union (KNU), since the 1950s.

Today, some 160,000 refugees from Burma -- Karen but also the Karenni, Mon and Kachin -- live crowded into 10 camps along Thailand's northwestern border. After a 10-year wait, the family in Vermont were among the lucky few to be resettled to the West each year.

In the same league of necessities as warm clothes and food stamps, the family was in urgent need of English skills, and the only Karen-English resources available were from the website of Drum Publications. Through Drum, I was able to download an extensive Karen-English dictionary that proved to be an instrumental aspect of the family's successful resettlement over the next few years.

There's no shortage of enthusiasm for the Karen language books.

Drum's roots came about in 1998 when an exceptionally bright young Karen woman, Pawsayhtoo, was instructed by the KNU to translate English materials into Karen. With minimal funding, she set up a touch-and-go operation in Kanchanaburi and was joined in 2001 by Tim Moffatt, an American expat who made up for his lack of Karen language skills with a strong desire to help the Karen people.

Assisted by Tim and a few Karen-English translators, Pawsayhtoo put together Drum's first Karen-English picture dictionary. Up until this point, the only English that had been translated into Karen aside from information pamphlets like "How to Avoid Malaria" was a Bible, a small dictionary and a thesaurus created by Methodist missionaries in the 1800s. In time, Drum produced the Karen-English dictionary with 8,000 headwords that found its way into the hands of the resettled family in Vermont along with many other Karen around the world.

Drum faced an uphill climb to get its books distributed to refugees within the camps, which required cutting through the bureaucratic layers of major aid and resettlement organisations. Funding was thin on the ground. Tim recalled how translators "would sleep in the office and get by on 300 baht of pocket money a month". Yet rather than giving up, the group increased its efforts and produced a range of books in Karen covering topics as varied as health, agriculture, Aesop's Fables and traditional Karen ghost stories.

In those days, Tim reflected how a sense of urgency to preserve the Karen language and culture drove the young team. "The language was dying," he said, a result of the Burmese government's ban on all education and publishing in ethnic languages. Men and women risked their lives by carrying 20 kilos of books for days while dodging landmines and Burmese soldiers to reach Karen villages on the Burma side of the border. The fear of being discovered by the Burmese was so pronounced that, as Pawsayhtoo told us, many villagers "dug holes in the ground and buried the books".

Today, the Karen have relative freedom to read their own language.

Eventually, Drum secured consistent funding from international aid groups that recognised the far-reaching positive influence the work could have. After a long and frustrating process, Drum also succeeded in getting its books officially distributed within the refugee camps.

The group has to date published more than 250 unique titles while also sending out quarterly journals for Karen children. More than 120,000 books were distributed either by hard copy or electronically in 2012. Pawsayhtoo is currently working with three new translators on Drum's most involved project yet -- a Karen-English dictionary with more than 30,000 headwords. It's expected to be finished by the middle of 2013.

Meanwhile, with no previous web development skills to speak of, Tim has created what is by far the most extensive Karen language resource on the web. All books from Drum as well as most Karen publications from other groups can be downloaded from the website, and a searchable database yields detailed results for specific key words and phrases in either Karen or English. Drum staff also make themselves available to speak with resettled refugees face-to-face via Skype.

While Karen-English resources are important, another pivotal goal of Drum is to "promote the empowerment of the Karen people to contribute towards maintaining, protecting and developing manifestations of their culture, language and literature". Drum's annual Karen language story-telling competitions have sparked a renewed passion for reading and writing in Karen communities. The best original works are published by Drum, and many authors go on to have careers as writers and teachers, ultimately inspiring the next generation of Karen to preserve and develop their once endangered culture.

The current Drum team from left to right: Hsamulei, Tim, Wayldee, Paula and Pawsayhtoo.

Looking to the future, team Drum feels that they may soon be able to distribute Karen language books within Burma itself. The Burmese army and Karen military factions are currently in a ceasefire, and while uncertainty persists, some positive steps have been taken by the reformed Burmese government towards bringing stability and a fragile sense of peace to the region. Karen can now travel freely, the Burmese censorship board has reduced restrictions on publishing in ethnic minority languages, and according to Tim, the legalization of teaching in ethnic languages is within reach.

A Drum staff member of six years, Hsamulei, told us that life in the villages has so far improved only slightly for the better, "but we're hopeful" that lasting peace will be reached. In the meantime, Drum Publications will continue its work of preserving Karen culture while expanding minds and keeping hope alive for Karen people the world over.

If anyone would like to support Drum's work, you can do so securely and directly through the Drum website's donation page, and also generally by spreading awareness on the plight of ethnic minorities in Burma.

Sincere thanks to Wayldee of Drum Publications for allowing us to use his photographs.

From the king's palace to Little India and Chinatown, through the old European quarter and on to the beginnings of Bangkok's modern business district, a stroll down Charoen Krung Road touches nearly all of the historical-cultural threads that weave this fascinating city together. With eclectic food, bustling markets and a diverse mix of attractions, it's also a feast for the senses. Khao San and Sukhumvit roads may be better known to travellers, but nowhere is Bangkok's spirit more vivid than along Charoen Krung.

Granting the wishes of European merchants who requested thoroughfares suitable for horses, the road was built by order of King Rama IV in 1861 and roughly follows the path of the Chao Phraya River. In those days, Bangkok was tied together by canals and dirt paths, and Charoen Krung is thought to have been the city's first proper road. The 8.5 kilometre-long avenue was initially called "New Road", but Rama IV officially named it Thanon Charoen Krung -- "Road of the Prosperous City".

Get your walking shoes on.

Beginning where Charoen Krung emerges from near the back side of Wat Pho, we're captured first by the tranquility of Saranrom Royal Gardens. Continuing east, we duck into one of the many Old City alleyways and stride beneath strings of miniature Thai flags draped from one shophouse to the next.

We then come to Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre at the corner of Tri Phet Road. Commissioned by King Rama VII in the early 1900s, it's thought to have been the first cinema in Southeast Asia and continues to function as a performance space for a traditional khon mask troupe. Though Bangkok now boasts far flashier theatres, Sala Chalermkrung still has a magnetic presence.

Sala Chalermkrung -- an enduring star.

A 100-metre sidetrack to the southwest and we find ourselves on Phahurat Road, the backbone of Bangkok's Little India. Although the Indian community has never been as large or noticeable as its Chinese counterpart, immigrants from the subcontinent have long played an important role in shaping the city. This legacy can be experienced today by wandering through the bright Indian textile shops that dominate the area.

Back on Charoen Krung, we cross a tiny canal bridge and have little choice but to join a stream of people who funnel below ground into what feels like the belly of Bangkok. In reality, it's Talaat Saphan Lek, one of the largest of many tightly packed markets found throughout Chinatown. We emerge from Saphan Lek only to lose ourselves again in the blinking, ticking and flashing displays of toy robots, clocks and karaoke machines in Khlong Thom and thieves' markets.

We doubt you'll go hungry around here.

Now in Chinatown proper, we're swept into the narrow alleys that connect Charoen Krung to Yaowarat Road. We maneouvre around human-powered push carts, over bushels of tea and under hanging fish heads along Soi Itsarunaphap. Just when the cramped quarters begin to overwhelm, we spot a single unoccupied table in a hole-in-the-wall shop, and in a flash, stacks of hand-made dim sum and steamed rice buns (sala bao) are at our fingertips.

After squeezing our way back to Charoen Krung, we pass Chinese bakeries, herb stores and open-fronted coffee shops where a late morning roomful of old men in loose slacks sit on plastic stools sipping their brew. Incense smoke wafts from Chinese shrines and mixes with the steam of footpath woks. We browse the melange of traditional Chinese calendars, Thai Buddhist amulets, weathered old knives and endless depictions of the Chinese goddess of compassion, Kuan Yin, in one of many antique shops.

Where the locals go for souvenirs.

Most of the rundown yet still functional shophouses that line Charoen Krung were built by the hands of Chinese immigrants over a century ago. Many of the original businesses found within them are run by third or fourth generation descendents of the founders, keeping their humble family legacies in tact. Sadly, more than 40 of these heritage buildings were levelled in 2012 to make way for a new subway line that will eventually run beneath part of Charoen Krung.

Although the destruction of these historic houses is disheartening, and the future of the area uncertain, we find the old school flavour of Chinatown to be very much alive. Some of the most visible examples of this enduring spirit are the Pure Land Buddhist shrines perched along the footpaths of Charoen Krung.

Keeping the fire burning.

A stone's throw further south and we kneel before two of Bangkok's most important religious images -- the solid gold Buddha of Wat Traimit and the twinkling Chao Mae Kuan Im. We pass through the gate of Chinatown at Odeon Circle, following Charoen Krung as it dips straight south and nearly bumps into Yaowarat Road near Hualamphong railway station.

The frenzy of Chinatown fades as we wade into the subtle beginnings of historic Bangrak. We pass narrow alleyways and charming old buildings -- apart from the roots of footpath banyan trees that grasp at open window sills, nothing appears to occupy some of them.

Charoen Krung's definition of treehouse.

We then come to several antique art galleries, jewellery and metal workshops on either side of the road. A wander into the Japanese built World War II warehouses down Soi 32 brings us to Fifty Years Gallery, home to an extraordinary collection of fine antique art from throughout Asia. Several more galleries are found further down Charoen Krung, including many in the beautifully restored OP Place on Soi 38.

Now firmly in what was once Bangkok's European quarter, we picture the well-heeled Westerners who once galloped their horses along the "New Road". Thanks in part to several riverside five-star hotels, the neighbourhood retains an upmarket feel. Although a handful of tourist-oriented travel offices and restaurants have been established, Charoen Krung never relinquishes its 'old Bangkok' atmosphere.

Padung Krung Kasem Canal -- one of many to criss-cross Charoen Krung.

In the vicinity of Assumption University off Soi 40, we take a seat on a pew in Romanesque-style Assumption Cathedral, the heart of Thailand's Roman Catholic community. Other architectural relics of the old European quarter include the original French and Portuguese embassies and the East Asiatic Building that once served as headquarters for the Danish freight company which helped turn Siam into an economic powerhouse around the turn of the 20th century.

Though several of this area's buildings are picturesque, we find none more captivating than the broken down old Customs Building at the end of Soi 36. With faded plaster walls, French-colonial style shutters hanging from broken windows and a reverent old clock tower that no longer ticks, the building sits by the river like an intentionally untouched tribute to a bygone era -- or the perfect setting for a horror movie. Rounding out the early 20th century nostalgic part of our Charoen Krung walk, we enjoy a more organised historical display at the Bangkokian Museum down Soi 43.

Who needs restoration?

This same area of Charoen Krung has also long been home to a thriving Muslim community, evidenced most visibly by Haroon Mosque across from the French Embassy. Although our bellies are still full of dim sum and Chinese tea cakes, we can't pass up the rich Thai-Indian-Muslim curries served on steel platters at 70 year-old Muslim Restaurant near Soi 42.

Further south, Charoen Krung once again grows livelier as it widens to meet Silom Road. Here we stumble on typical yet delicious Thai street fare to go with piles of tropical fruit in and around Soi 44. We also find old shophouses here, though they're now dwarfed by some of Bangkok's most behemoth buildings.

Old meets modern -- shophouses under the giant State Tower.

With a BTS skytrain station and Express Boat pier to our right and the bank headquarters of Sathorn Road shooting off to the left, we find ourselves beneath Saphan Taksin bridge. At nearby Wat Yannawa, we climb on the quirky temple hall built by Rama IV to resemble a Chinese trading junk. Across the street looms the "Sathorn Unique", a high-rise luxury apartment building left unfinished when developers ran short on cash following the 1997 Asia financial crisis.

From here, Charoen Krung mellows out once more and remains quiet over its last few kilometres. Though old shophouses continue to line the road, we're taken with some of the more modest residences that seem to make the most of what they have. Before heading back to the BTS station, we rest our feet and watch a fiery orange sun sink below the river from Bangkok's longest boardwalk at Asiatique night bazaar near Soi 74.

Someone's humble riverside escape.

Charoen Krung Road provides many glimpses into Bangkok's past, but it's also an example of the momentum that has carried the city forward. As we cruise above ground towards the malls and skyscrapers of central Bangkok, we reflect on how a tram car service that began running on Charoen Krung in 1894 must have been met by a similar excitement to that which energized the city when the skytrain first set sail in 2005. The very same momentum that brought Charoen Krung into existence 150 years ago continues to drive Bangkok towards a familiar idea -- prosperity.

Ready for a walk? Check out this map pinpointing the highlights of Charoen Krung.

Number E9 on the Sukhumvit Line, On Nut was the furthest out of the new BTS stations to be added back in 2010, and it's a prime example of how the Skytrain is revitalising the outlying areas that it reaches. Before the BTS arrived, this area was a sort of backwater chiefly defined by local neighbourhoods with charming old wood homes and ugly concrete shophouses. Since On Nut station opened, more than a dozen enormous condominium buildings have been constructed, and new restaurants and hotels are popping up like dandelions in the springtime. The transformation is far from complete -- expect to see ongoing construction here -- but On Nut increasingly has something to offer both the traveller and the expat seeking affordability and a non-touristy setting.

Exit 3 takes you straight down to a motorbike taxi stand in front of the imposing Ideo Condominium, one the area's many examples of how so many modern Bangkokians live. Continue south from here then take a left into Soi 89 and after a few hundred metres you'll reach Baan Cedarburg, a homely guesthouse with cheap dorm beds and private rooms down a charming local street.

Immediately surrounding the BTS station you'll find plenty of food and shopping options to suit all but luxury tastes. Directly accessible through exit 2 is an air-con Tesco Lotus shopping plaza, which features not only a giant Lotus supermarket but also several chain restaurants, a cheap and clean Thai food court, book stores, phone shops and clothing stalls. Head north for a short distance from exit 2 and you'll reach the Imm Fusion Hotel, a budget spot with a midrange hotel personality.

Don't fret the BTS station isn't haunted.

On the other side of the street, immediately out of exit 1, is a large open-air market with stalls selling everything from som tam and grilled chicken to Vietnamese style spring rolls to fresh coffee. Several vendors also sell clothing, phone accessories and pirated DVDs for dirt cheap. Head north from here and you'll pass a couple of small coffee shops before hitting Soi 79, which is home to a few Thai eateries and De Maria Wood Fired Pizzeria.

Continue north and you'll reach On Nut Road (aka Sukhumvit Soi 77) itself after a short stroll. Take a right into this colourful, bustling thoroughfare and you'll be immediately swept into a cramped footpath lined with vendors selling fresh fruit and flowers along with curries and stir-fries for takeaway, northeastern Thai-style sausages, coconut sticky rice with mango and much more. If you can manage the crowds, this is an excellent area to graze on local nibbles. If you prefer to shop in more spacious air-con confines, a Big C shopping plaza is a short walk past the footpath market.

On the other side of On Nut Road you'll find a similarly vibrant atmosphere with several hole-in-the-wall food shops and newsstands. This stretch is also home to at least a dozen cheap dentist offices. Continue east along On Nut Road and you'll pass attractive traditional Thai wood homes in the shadow of brand new high-rise condos.

The only real attraction in this immediate area is Wat Mahabut and the Ghost of Mae Nak shrine, tucked along the Phra Khanong canal at the end of On Nut Soi 7. Along the way, stop in at one of the many fortune tellers to see what might await you on the horizon. Although it can also be accessed from Bang Chak, Punnawithi or Udom Sok BTS stations further south, Rama IX Gardens is a reasonable taxi ride from On Nut station, though it's too far to walk.

Often overshadowed by big brother island Koh Rong next door, Koh Rong Samloem has begun making a name for itself. Read on for our picks of the bunch when it comes to selecting the right hideaway to enjoy your down and out time on one of Koh Rong Samloen's glorious beaches.

Gently lounging in the Gulf of Thailand, the island has good snorkelling and diving possibilities and is only two hours by boat from Sihanoukville. There are a selection of beaches to choose from, but they primarily come in come in two shades -- golden or white -- and the accommodation is eco, funky, rustic, canvas or romantic.

Frodo and Bilbo just out of shot ...

The biggest choice of accommodation is now found at Saracen Bay, the rising star of Koh Rong Samloem and the quickest beach to get to from the mainland. Dorm doyennes will be happy with the open-air sleeping at The Beach -- $5 gets you a comfy mattress on a platform, nice linen and a view to die for, directly on the sand. If you like your walls to go all the way around, the imaginative circular huts come with shared or ensuite bathrooms, made from thatch and pebbles.

Beats waking up to traffic and rain.

At the other end of the budget spectrum, Saracen Bay Resort has carefully designed bungalows, which look like standard beach buildings until you get close up. That's when you notice the insect screens, sparkling tiled floors, full Western bathroom and attention to detail with furniture and cleaning. Considerately spaced at a distance away from the restaurant, generator and each other, these lovely rooms are perfect for romance without waking up the neighbours. All this care and comfort comes at a price, but $45 a night for bug-free sleep and a glorious view from the veranda when you wake is certainly not extortionate.

Glamping. No wellies required.

Always dreamt of camping on the beach, but worry about ablutions or too lazy to put up a tent? Sun Island ECO Village has the answer: permanent tents pitched under thatch roofs, with a private bathroom shed right next door. Solar panels generate 24-hour electricity and the tents come with lounge furniture, mattresses and rugs for you to play house. Further along the beach, Ataman's Bungalows are well-sized with some of the best views due to their elevated position. The design may be lacking in finishing touches, but they're a reasonably priced option for beach bunnies.

We wanna be free, to do what we wanna do.

Because it's still relatively undeveloped -- no internet, no roads, no motor vehicles -- Koh Rong Samloem has its fair share of 'private' beaches. At the end of Saracen Bay, accessed by a short path, Freedom Bungalows have their own beach, pier and spring water pool, which comes with a handy drinks table in the middle. The bungalows are not traditional wood and thatch, instead having metal roofs and tinted glass fronts behind a good-sized deck raised off the ground. The interior decor is a little heavy-going but overall it's a good place to enjoy the peace or join in the parties.

Beach. Boat. Sunset. Perfection.

Old favourite Lazy Beach, on the western side of the island, have golden sands and magnificent sunsets on their piece of paradise. Well made bungalow accommodation is spread out for privacy in the bush behind the bay and even when the resort is full, which it often is, it never feels overcrowded. Arrive on the Lazy Beach boat, spend a few days, and you may forget the rest of the world exists. Board games, snorkelling, sunset walks and table tennis will ensure neither your brain nor your body gets too slothful. Bungalow and restaurant prices mean this is not for the budget conscious -- clientele tend to be expat friends, couples and families.

Mr Crusoe would be jealous.

For similar sunsets at half the price, Robinson Bungalows on the next bay around offer basic cabins nestled into the edge of the jungle, overlooking the rocky end of the beach. Bathrooms are shared and there's no luxury extras such as fans, pool tables or solar power. Instead you get the real deal on a natural stay, falling asleep to the sound of monkeys and sharing your accommodation with Tokai gekkos.

Keep watching, there'll be a sunset along very shortly.

If sunsets are you thing, but you prefer some proximity to other people, the aptly named Sunset Bungalows at M'Pai Bei village are just the ticket. Services are limited at the beautifully built bungalows, but the fishing village is a two-minute walk for breakfast or beers, and sandy Long Beach is a seven-minute wander away. On the way, the popular M'Pay Bay Bungalows give a taste of village life with basic budget huts and friendly staff. Like the beach but want to put some distance between you and the early morning cockerels? Koh Rong Samloem Villas have just opened up halfway down Long Beach, with a focus on diving and relaxation.

Wherever you decide to stay, we recommend booking in advance, especially around Cambodia's public holidays or in the high season. Nobody wants to be obliged to make an undignified scramble to get off the boat first and run down the beach looking for a bed. Koh Rong Samloem is for relaxing, smiling and saying "Ahhhhhhhh!" a lot.

The Vietnam Bear Rescue Centre, in Tam Dao near Hanoi, escaped a threat of closure earlier this year after an extensive campaign. While this means the centre will be able to continue its excellent work, bile farming shows no signs of letting up and it needs all the support it can get.

The centre, run by Animals Asia Foundation, covers 12 hectares of land and hosts more than 100 moon and sun bears; another centre is located in Chengdu, China. Most of the bears at the centres were milked for their bile, a cruel practice that causes awful pain and suffering to the bears -- the bile is used in traditional medicine. Bile farming has been illegal in Vietnam since 2005 but the practice persists. Activists estimate that around 2,400 bears are kept captive on farms in Vietnam; farmers claim them as "pets" to get around the law, plus a lack of resources often prevents the law being enforced anyway.

Who's a happy bear?

Vietnam Director Tuan Bendixsen told Travelfish.org that bears can be rescued in a number of ways. "Recently two cubs in Vietnam were rescued after police stopped a motorbike carrying them going down the highway -- undoubtedly there would have been destined for the bile industry," he said. On one occasion a bear farmer read about what the rescue centre does and decided it was no longer an industry he wanted to be a part of; he turned the bears over, Bendixsen said.

Having a sanctuary for the bears helps police enforce the laws as it means they have somewhere to send them once they are rescued. "Where there is the will to enforce the law we are there to support them and take the bears," Bendixsen added.

The stuff of nightmares.

Rescued bears are unable to be rehabilitated into the wild as no safe environments exist. Most of the bears anyway require regular medication and full-time care due to injuries sustained at the farms or while being transported. Many are missing limbs -- or need them amputated -- or are suffering from arthritis or peritonitis. Some are even blind, often from severe head trauma. Several have had to have their gall-bladders removed because of damage caused by bile extraction. Most are suffering from mental distress.

Upon arrival at the centre bears are given a health check and initially spend three months in recovery cages, before being integrated into the group cages, divided by breed and age. The cages are spacious with numerous enrichment 'toys' and activities supplied to engage the bears. In addition, food is hidden around the cages to encourage the bears' natural foraging behaviour.

Bear lux.

"Whereas previously they were in cages with no room to stand or move, at our sanctuary they are rehabilitated and progressed towards large open enclosures," Bendixsen said. "We've known bears to spend 30 years of their lives their whole expected lifespan in tiny cages with little or no medical provision and with regular bile extractions. Without rescue most would die on farms or they'd be sold for meat when their bile was no longer considered pure'."

Each of the bears has its own heart-wrenching story. Zebedee has been at the centre since 2009 when he was rescued from a house where he had been kept in a cage in a dark corner for 13 years. He has permanent damage to the end of his nose caused by abuse received as a cub; the terrible diet he'd been fed ruined his teeth, 12 of which had to be removed at his first health check. Later, during the operation to remove his damaged gall bladder, a toothpick was found in his abdomen.

Incredibly Zebedee has put his problems behind him and is now a very happy bear, living in a large outside enclosure with 20 friends. He's become an expert nibbler ensuring he gets his fair share to eat despite his lack of teeth. And what gives him most pleasure is lapping up the sunshine he missed for 13 years.

Gimme a kiss.

Easy, one of the female bears, knows what it's like to think salvation is at hand, only to suffer torture again. In 2006 she was confiscated from a bear bile farm by the authorities but with no room to house her, they asked a local resort to take her in. The resort owners however also subjected her to regular bile extraction; Animals Asia was able to eventually convince the resort to hand her over.

Please note that if you are interested in visiting the centre you can't just pop in. Contact them in advance by email to arrange a time when a guide is available to show you around. As a working sanctuary the health of the bears is the main priority and while the centre recognises its appeal to visitors, it is not set up as an attraction.

You can combine a visit with a trip to Tam Dao, as the 70-kilometre journey from Hanoi takes around four hours, so it's a long way to see the centre alone. The centre is 10 kilometres from Tam Dao.

You can support the work of Animals Asia Foundation, and the centre, through donations via their website.

Vietnam Bear Rescue Centre
http://www.animalsasia.org/
T: (04) 3928 9264
trinh@animalsasia.org

Humanitarian Services for Children of Vietnam (HSCV) was founded in 2002 to help orphans, homeless children and other children living in poverty in Hanoi and surrounding areas through the provision of food, shelter, clothing, health and education.

The organisation was set up by American Chuck DeVet and his daughter Annetta, following a visit to Vietnam in 2001. Their experiences drove them to want to help needy children in the country, and after further visits they decided to set up HSCV in the Hanoi area, which was less well served by charitable organisations than the south.

HSCV operates a number of programmes: educational scholarships, rice distribution, bicycle donations, wheelchair distribution, orthopaedic surgery, medical missions and orphanages.

Girls at the foster home.

One of HSCVs newest initiatives is a girls foster home in Hanoi. Opened in 2011, it is now home to 14 girls between the ages of four and 18. The girls are supported at the home by a head of home, a house mother, a social worker and two assistants. They attend school, are provided with meals and receive medical care. The difference the home makes to these girls is evident: it is a nurturing environment in which they can overcome past problems with the aid of the helpers and the companionship of the other girls. The girls arrived at the home through a number of different channels, such as Blue Dragon, a foundation that supports kids in crisis in Vietnam.

A new home near the existing location was rented this year and the Hanoi International Womens Club has donated funds for the purchase of essential equipment for setting up another house for girls.

Worth it for the smile alone.

The children helped by HSCV have diverse backgrounds. Huong and one of her sisters are an example. They resorted to begging after their father deserted the family and were left in the care of their maternal grandmother. When their grandmother died they moved in with their cousin and her brother, and the four of them, all under 18, lived in a squalid one-room apartment, supported solely by the cousins meagre income. Huong now lives at the girls foster home, is an excellent student and helps the other girls with their studies and daily life; although shes always wanted to be a singer, she now wants to become a social worker to help vulnerable girls like herself. Her youngest sister, aged five, has also now moved into the foster home.

Mai grew up in Dien Bien province. Her father earnt a small living as a carpenter but her mother was unable to work due to a heart condition. When Mai was three she fell into her fathers saw and severed her right arm above the elbow. Despite this, she learnt to ride a bike, wash clothes, cook, sew and knit. Later, both of her parents were imprisoned for drug-related incidents and her father died while in prison. While her mother was in prison in Hanoi, Mai applied for an educational scholarship from HSCV and studied at the Special Education Division at the Hanoi Teacher Training University. She has now graduated and plans to return to her hometown to work as a teacher.

Mai on graduation day.

The money donated by Travelfish.org -- US$100 -- will be used to purchase sewing equipment for the girls foster homes such as scissors, braid, thread and material. To both entertain the girls during the school holidays and provide them with skills, a sewing machine has been purchased for the new home and a sewing programme will be set up by a member of HIWC. Items made will be sold at the charity bazaar in November.

The HSCV website provides more information on the foster home and other programmes. It also makes it easy to donate! Each program provides a breakdown of funds needed for its operation so, for example, you can choose to donate a bicycle, sponsor a child in education, pay the rent on the foster home or just donate a fixed sum.

Humanitarian Services for Children of Vietnam
T: (04) 3715 1263
www.hscv.org
hscv.info@hscv.org

Wat this, wat that, what the... ? Yes Chiang Mai city's numerous Buddhist temples, or wats, can be overwhelming for travellers. The city is famous for them and any guide -- including our own -- will proffer extensive lists of must-see temples, prestigious Buddha images and not-to-be missed Lanna-style religious architecture. We lost count at 35 wats within the old city walls, and there's at least that number again in the surrounding downtown area -- and probably a similar number in the 'burbs. So what to do? Choosing which ones look the best is purely subjective, but we can at least place them in order of importance in terms of prestige and historical significance and suggest a few routes. Here we go.

The biggies

It's a toss up between Wat Chedi Luang and Wat Phra Singh when it comes to naming Chiang Mai's "most important" temple, so if you're only going to see two downtown wats these are probably the ones. Chedi Luang is the largest and was the old royal temple of the Chiang Mai kings, so we've put it first -- but the good news is it's only a five-minute walk from its rival. It's also conveniently close to the city's museum district.

Oh no, we missed this classic of Lanna architecture.

Exit Chedi Luang, turn left, then left again on Ratchadamneon (see our Chiang Mai map here), and you'll reach the strategically located Wat Phra Singh. Popular among locals and tourists, its convenient location makes it a good choice for a Sunday afternoon as it can be combined with a late afternoon wander down the walking street market.

Thais say if you haven't seen Wat Doi Suthep you haven't seen Chiang Mai, and insofar as a visit to this mountaintop temple provides a view of the entire city below, there's some truth to the statement. Another highly prestigious site with a choice of steps or funicular taking you from the car park to the temple itself, it's located on an outcrop just below the actual mountain summit but with tremendous views looking east over the Ping valley and city itself. You'll need a songthaew (red pick-up taxi) to get up there but it can be combined with a visit to the Doi Suthep national park, Doi Pui or perhaps Chiang Mai Zoo at the foot of the mountain.

Next up

An interesting 15th century wat set in a spacious garden and containing several photogenic Mon- and Indian-style ruins, Wat Chet Yot is set just off the superhighway and is perhaps a good one to combine with Wat U Mong and or the zoo again, since you can cover these sites by tuk tuk without having to venture up Doi Suthep. Its name means "Temple of Seven Chedis" -- and no prizes for guessing it boasts a soaring seven-spired chedi, set atop a brick platform adorned with sitting Buddha images.

The things they've seen -- Wat Chet Yot.

It's worth heading to Wat U Mong as being a forest temple, it has a very different feel to it from the others we've mentioned. Despite being well known among local visitors, it's not so frequently visited by foreign tourists. Set in woods at the foot of Doi Suthep, it's quite overgrown and dilapidated, with lots of trees and old Buddhist statues dotted about, making it an interesting place to just wander. Situated at the top end of Suthep Road, we'd recommend a stop on the way here at the excellent Don Phayam Market.

Back into the old city for Wat Chiang Man, which frequently figures, after Chedi Luang and Phra Singh, on any suggested temple tour and is significant as it's the oldest temple in Chiang Mai -- supposedly King Mengrai stayed here while directing the city's construction at the end of the 13th century. It's classic Lanna style, and its location in the old city's northeast quadrant near Somphet means it's a short walk from many of the town's guesthouses.

Best of the rest

The above covers Chiang Mai's essential temples so we'll move on to a few of our personal faves among the remaining more than 100 or so -- mostly selected by virtue of their being easily combined with adjacent sites.

Wat Sri Suphan, or the "Silver Temple", is unique and well worth a look if you're in the area --its really quite astounding, with the main feature being its silver ubosot, or ordination hall. It's right next to the Saturday walking street market, so combine the two if you can.

The small but recently restored and very attractive Wat Lok Malee is a short walk from Central Department Store. It's very cute and worth a detour.

Lok Malee -- a favourite of ours.

Largely constructed out of teak, Wat Pan Tao is one of the city's oldest and is located right next door to Chedi Luang so it's easy to stick your head in -- and it's blissfully free of the trappings of many other city temples.

Wat Pansao is another temple travellers often overlook. Small and atmospheric, it's tucked away off the moat road, west side, close to Central and adjacent to Chiang Mai Ram Hospital. It's very pretty with some interesting legends behind it as well.

Fifteenth-century Wat Suan Dok is renowned among locals -- it lies opposite Suan Dok gate on the western moat road and with its spectacular chedis is a particularly good one to catch for sunset, perhaps on your way back from Doi Suthep or Wat U Mong.

Finally, note that our suggested Chiang Mai city walks take in many of these temples -- and plenty more we haven't noted -- so take a wander and let us know of any other good ones you come across that you think should have made the list.

So we're just back from our first trip to Burma/Myanmar -- a trip we waited 20 years to do. While we had hoped to come away with a clear view that you, too, should visit Burma, we still think deciding to travel here remains a very personal choice requiring careful research and consideration.

We'll be the first to admit that unfortunately nowhere in Southeast Asia is exactly a beacon of human rights and political freedom. All have their issues -- disappearances in Laos, blogger arrests in Vietnam, extrajudicial killings in Cambodia, and that's just for starters -- but Burma has consistently managed to hit rock bottom in this regard.

It's true that the junta is no more, but like many things in Burma, the reality is far from black and white. The elections of 2010 were wildly regarded as fraudulent, with the military-backed Union Solidarity and Development Party winning over 250 of the 330 contested seats (the National League for Democracy did not participate). Many of the generals now hold ministerial posts within the government -- they've just switched the khakis for more casual attire -- and regardless, the military retains 25% of seats in parliament.

Old meets new in Bagan.

Burma still holds political prisoners, continues to use forced labour, has been alleged to be involved in ethnic cleansing with regard to the Rohingya and was named as the fifth most corrupt nation in the world by Transparency International. According to Human Rights Watch, Burma's human rights situation remains poor despite some noteworthy actions by the government toward reform and reports of using rape as a weapon continue to be levelled against the Burmese military.

Where those generals really belong.

As during the junta days, the (now-ex) generals are surrounded by a bevy of hangers on, commonly referred to as cronies, who continue to grab land and enrich themselves at the expense of all others. The tentacles of these tycoons stretch across all facets of the Burmese economy, including tourism, banking, schools, energy, cement, drugs and weapons. Where in the past, travellers who cared could work to minimise the amount of money they gave to the government, today, with the ever-expanding crony network, this becomes far more difficult.

Yes, there are some simple ways to reduce what you pay into government coffers, by for example not using the train network, but it's quite unrealistic and unworkable for travellers to steer their money completely clear of the all-pervading cronies.

Putting your money in the right hands.

And even if you think you've got your boycott list sorted out, you've got the 969 movement to deal with. This is a Buddhist anti-Muslim hate group that appears to be at least tolerated by the government. Led by a vitriol-spewing monk named Wirathu who spreads his message of hate via sermons and widely distributed CDs, many businesses, especially taxis, proudly display the 969 sticker. These are businesses that informed travellers should boycott.

Politics and religious affairs aside, visitors to Burma will come face to face with a very heavy-handed double-pricing system put in place for trains, buses and some hotels for foreign travellers. Your hotel may well be double the cost of that paid by a local. While we accept the we-pay-taxes argument when it comes to public services, we're not convinced by this when it comes to the private sector.

A beautiful country - even in the pouring rain.

Significant stretches of the country require a government permit to visit on an organised trip. When we enquired at Myanmar Tour & Travel -- the government tourist agency responsible for permits -- about travel to Mrauk U in western Burma, we were told a permit was required and the tour cost (ex-Yangon) would be around $700, with the permit taking "five or so" days to arrange. Consider that a polite way of saying, "We don't want you to go there."

On the upside, every Burmese person we talked to supported foreign tourists visiting their country. By visiting, you'll be able to support small, family-owned businesses and the money is welcome -- particularly from those who make the effort to try and put it in the right hands. Also, by visiting Burma, and as with any country really, travellers are presented with an opportunity to better acquaint themselves with the situation on the ground. One would hope that an increased number of visitors to the country will help in some way to further open up the country for travel, in as positive a way as possible.

Plenty to meditate on.

And what of the country's sights, people, food and so on? Burma is a completely fascinating place to visit. From the temples old and new to natural beauty and simply people watching on the streets, you won't be short of things to see and experience. We found the people by and large to be extremely hospitable and welcoming. And like everywhere in Southeast Asia, Burma boasts an excellent cuisine -- thick curries and tasty fresh noodles, often made by hand -- and it deliciously explains away the culinary transition from South Asia to Southeast Asia. Yes, there's a lot of oil free of charge, but it's easily eaten around, and the fresh salads and Shan noodles are delicious.

So if you do decide to go, what can you do to do it responsibly? Try not to use government services like trains, opting instead for private buses -- although note that some of these may be owned by cronies. If it's all getting too tricky to nut out - and it most probably, realistically, will -- then travel however you like, but do put aside some of your budget to make a donation to an organisation doing good work in the country. Try to support businesses doing good stuff, such as the Golden Harp Taxi Service in Yangon. Tourism Transparency has some suggestions for activities worth exploring.

It is going to be a long haul.

What will we at Travelfish be doing? We'll have three writers there in the coming months and will be adding limited coverage for Burma to the site through 2013, primarily concentrating on the destinations most visited by independent travellers, and we'll re-assess the situation at the end of 2014.

We do feel that Burma is a destination that warrants further research by travellers in order to make an informed decision regarding whether they should visit or not. We waited 20 years -- if you're not sure yourself, give it a few more years.

Romance

Just the two of you? If you're prepared to pay a little more for a touch of luxury, check out Lazy Beach on Koh Rong Samloem. The bungalows are well spaced, the sunsets are top billing and the beach is never busy. Get cosy in the softly-lit wooden restaurant for dinner a deux with a bottle of wine. On the other side of the island, Saracen Bay Resort's superbly constructed bungalows will have you oohing and aahing from the moment you step onto the beachside veranda. Across on Koh Rong, fulfil your desire to fall asleep in a treehouse to the sound of lapping waves. Who says romance is dead?

A hammock made for two.

Partying

If your trip won't be complete without dancing all night with sand between your toes, The Beach on Koh Rong Samloem runs monthly full-moon parties. The Party Boat runs from Sihanoukville to the island, returning the next morning, but we'd recommend staying a couple of nights to recover and making the most of the white beach at Saracen Bay.

Show-off sky.

Sunsets

Sunset seekers should choose the correct side of each island to be sure of the best views. On Koh Rong Samloem, Lazy Beach provides some spectacular skies that Michaelangelo would be proud of. The bay next door, home to Robinson Island and the brand new Huba-Huba guesthouse, is imaginatively named Sunset Beach. The quick-minded will also spot the cleverly disguised marketing of Sunset Bungalows, at the north of Koh Rong Samloem by M'pai Bei village. On nearby Koh Rong, sky-gazers should head for the 7km beach which has Sok San Bungalows and Angkor Chum Bungalows at one end.

Every beach needs a swing.

Family friendly

For adventurous families, a few days on a tropical island should come high on a list of to-do experiences. Koh Thmei Resort (on Koh Thmei, unsurprisingly) is geared up for kids with a family-sized bungalow, plenty of games and toys, and a beach with a fine selection of shells for collecting. Their 24-hour electricity and above-average bathrooms also make life easier if you're travelling with ankle-biters. Although getting to the fishing village for the boat transfer is a little tricky, the 45-minute boat ride through mangroves and along the island's coast gives ample opportunities for bird and island spotting, and not much time for sea-sickness.

A little further afield, Paradise Bungalows on Koh Rong are a favourite with expat families. Small touches like swings on the terrace, non-stop electricity and thoughtful menus make for happy castaways.

Tanks for everything!

Activities

If your beach bum could do with some exercise, there's plenty to get you off your towel and into nature. There are excellent dive options on Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem, with snorkelling if you prefer to keep in touch with the surface. Palm Beach Resort and Rising Sun on Koh Rong have kayaks for hire if you want to stick your oar in. Jungle trails ranging from a pleasant 20-minute stroll to a few hours of effort crisscross Koh Rong and neighbouring Koh Rong Samloem. A guide is not essential but sensible shoes and plenty of water are a must. For those comfortable on two wheels in rough terrain, mountain bikes and motorbikes are available for hire on Koh Rong, giving you access to the interior of the island. For something less strenuous, bird watching is a popular pastime on Koh Ta Kiev, with more than 150 species of birds to keep twitchers happy.

Rustic seclusion

Any island stay brings you up close and personal with a bit of nature, but some places are more wild than others. Longing to lose the WiFi and truly escape? Adventurers who like their location untouched and untamed will enjoy Robinson Bungalows on Koh Rong Samloem, falling asleep to the sound of monkeys and tokay geckos and exploring the under-subscribed beach. On Koh Ta Kiev, get back to basics sleeping in an outdoor hammock at Ten 103 or pitching a tent on your chosen spot of paradise at Crusoe Island.

Tiny shorts optional.

With friends

For a memorable mates' break, hanging out on tropical beaches sipping cocktails is something to tell the grandkids. Head to Palm Beach Resort on Koh Rong for kayaking, volleyball and lazy beachside barbecues. Book out all 10 bungalows and make it your private island getaway! On the island's main beach, Monkey Island has a good selection of accommodation and a spacious shady restaurant deck designed for drinks and storytelling late into the night. For a cheaper option, your crew can bed down in Ten 103's dorm on Koh Ta Kiev and wake up to sparkling sea views in a jungle setting.

... and relax.

Day trip

While we'd strongly recommend a few nights on your chosen island, travellers on tight schedules can still get an island experience on a day trip. Although a way offshore, Koh Rong Samloem can be reached by the Party Boat in less than two hours, giving you a few hours of impressive white beach time. Don't forget your toothbrush in case you decide you can't possibly leave the same day. Closer to land, Koh Ta Kiev is less than an hour's boat ride and Koh Russei features in all the three-island day tours sold around Sihanoukville. If you do visit Koh Russei, follow the jungle path across the island for 10 minutes to the more beautiful and less inhabited bay.

Between 1964 and 1973 the US army dropped more than two million tons of ordnance on Laos, earning the country the dubious distinction of being the most heavily bombed country per capita in history. The Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise -- COPE -- is a non-profit based in Vientiane that runs rehabilitation centres aiming to provide access to orthotic and prosthetic devices and a range of other services for the victims of the remains of these weapons.

The majority of the bombs dropped by the US were cluster munitions-- bomb casings containing around 200 smaller bombs, which explode upon impact. Cluster munitions are engineered to react to hard surfaces, but the extensive vegetation covering the Lao countryside was often not firm enough to trigger explosions, leaving around one third of the 260 million bombs dropped unexploded and lodged within forests and paddy.

Art made of scrap metal from cluster bomb casings.

Contaminating around 25% of villages throughout Laos, these unexploded ordnances (UXOs) have plagued rural dwellers every since, detonating from the impact of ploughs, shovels and the prods of curious children. More than 20,000 lives have been lost to UXOs in the post-war era, and thousands of more victims have been injured -- often blinded or losing limbs.

Less than a single percent of UXOs have been removed, and until this monumental task is completed, every year will see around another hundred casualties from UXOs in Laos.

Each cluster munition contains around 200 smaller bombs.

Raised in a society that has yet to develop an infrastructure for people with disabilities, most surviving UXO victims in Laos remain in the care of their families. Few victims are able to acquire vocational skills and education; many end up a financial burden to their families, who do not have the means to provide them with sufficient care and resources. For the many Lao families who subsist on a few dollars a day, the time and cost of caring for a disabled family members is a challenge. Furthermore, they're financially incapable of investing in mobility aids and training that would help disabled family members achieve greater physical and economic autonomy.

COPE provides UXO victims not only with physical assistance, but with a means to become an active member of society. COPE also serves as a training ground for Lao medical students wishing to specialise in rehabilitation, both to improve medical care in Laos and as an effort to make the project sustainable in the long term, so that the project will be entirely Lao-run in the future.

Prosthetic legs help people move on.

The central COPE complex in Vientiane additionally provides housing and schooling for young UXO victims whose families cannot afford their care. Volunteer positions are sometimes available, but simply popping in to see the victims is not permitted. Anyone interested in participating or simply learning more about the war and UXOs is encouraged to come to the COPE Visitor Centre.

An old bomb casing is used as a flower bed.

An old bomb casing used as a flower bed at the Visitor Centre.

The COPE Visitor Centre provides a little tour of the world of UXOs, telling of war history and showing examples not only of the bombs, but various ingenious uses for scrap metal from bomb casings. It explains the role of COPE and shows examples of prosthetics, and has a movie room with about a dozen documentaries to watch at your leisure.

Admission is free. Donation boxes are provided for those wishing to contribute, and proceeds from gift shop merchandise go towards funding the project. If you're in Vientiane in November/December, check to see whether you'll be there for the annual fundraising concert. For 30,000 kip, you'll see a variety of local bands and everyone's favourite B-boys, Lao Bang Fai, hit the stage. Booths sell food and drink from around the world, and a crowd of all nationalities party on in the knowledge that all proceeds will go toward providing new opportunities in life for the victims of UXOs.

COPE
Khou Vieng Road (about a kilometre from the bus station)
Open daily 09:00-18:00
copelaos.org

With a mix of spectacular yet heavily-touristed temples plus offbeat, tourist-free temples, Luang Prabang offers a great package of religious architectural experiences. Whether you're into seeing the shimmering temples you've glimpsed in tourist brochures or simply want to chill out under a frangipani tree, watching the monks go about their daily routines in a secluded spot, Luang Prabang has it all. Here's a selection of our favourites.

By far the most popular temple in town is called Wat Xieng Thong. Located at the far end of the peninsula, visitors arrive here by the bus load in peak times and much of the magic of the place is lost in the sea of other tourists.

Get in early for the top shelf attractions.

For the best experience, arrive in the early morning or towards the end of the day, when you'll have more of the temple grounds to yourself and you won't be constantly walking in front of people's photos of the beautiful things here, such as the glass mosaic tree or revered reclining Buddha. It's a sprawling complex with quite a few different points of interest, so this is one temple that demands a decent amount of time to explore. A relatively hefty 20,000 kip fee is charged upon entry.

Glam peacocks.

Down in the south of town behind Phou Si Mountain are Wat Wisunalat and Wat Aham, worth swinging by primarily due to their being less crowded, but also due to the watermelon-shaped stupa in front of one of the temples. Known as That Pathum (Stupa of the Great Lotus), it is totally different in style to anything else in Luang Prabang and although it could do with a good scrub, is picturesque in its own unique way. The main attraction of Wat Aham is its peaceful grounds, the odd monk hanging out washing and some fine murals on the walls and ceilings of the main sim depicting some hellish scenes.

We've never seen a watermelon like it.

The largest wat in Luang Prabang is the centrally located Wat Mai. Due to its location, it's quite heavily touristed and again an early morning visit is a great option if you want to avoid appearing in other people's photos. You'll also get a better appreciation of how local people interact with the wat during the early morning, as later in the day it's primarily used just as a tourist attraction. The highlight here is the incredible multi-tiered roof of the sim which starts with a soft slope on the lower tiers and climaxes at the top with an almost vertical pitch. Along with this highlight, also look out for the spectacular bas relief depicting stories of the Ramayana and Buddha's early life.

This is not peak hour.

A good add-on to a temple visit is wonderfully French Le Cafe Ban Vat Sene. A good time to visit is for breakfast when Luang Prabang temple hopping is yet to reach a frantic pace. Take a seat on the footpath, order a coffee, a baguette and a selection of house-made preserves and relax into the day ahead. After getting your fill at the cafe, walk across the road to Wat Sene, a Thai-style wat built in the 18th century and renovated a few times since. If you're out the front early enough, it's even possible to catch a low-key alms ceremony with nary another tourist in sight.

Reaching for heaven.

For something a little more offbeat, the temples across the other side of the Mekong are well worth checking out. As well as being quieter than their Luang Prabang cousins, they can be much more atmospheric due to their more rural surroundings. On top of the hill is Wat Chompet, which is slightly busted, but boasts great views across the river back to Luang Prabang. A couple of oddly tilting stupas add a quirky feel to the place and it's certainly a temple for those looking for something outside the norm.

Further to east is Wat Tham Xieng Men, an abandoned cave temple reminiscent of an Indiana Jones movie with its carved stone entrance surrounding the cave opening and iron fence keeping looters at bay. To take a look inside, ask one of the local children hanging around if they will take you in; bring a torch, although the children are usually well-prepared for tourists and will lend you one for a fee. Inside you'll find loads of half destroyed Buddhas and perhaps not a single other tourist. Entry is 10,000 kip, although this is not always collected.

Wobbly but wonderful.

While Luang Prabang is quite a compact town and old city is eminently walkable, visiting the full range of temples by foot is a big ask. A great way to see all of these temples and some others just outside of the main tourist area, we recommend hiring a bicycle for about 20,000 kip. Most of Luang Prabang is flat and even the dirt trails across in Chompet can be ridden on the basic bicycles for rent in town with a little walking in some of the hillier sections.

The haunting, UNESCO-listed ruins at Kamphaeng Phet attract a trickle of travellers, often on day trips from Sukhothai. Those who linger are treated to marvellous food, a scenic riverfront, pristine natural attractions and spirited locals who haven't become jaded by large-scale tourism. If you seek to sidestep the well-trodden track, two days in Kamphaeng Phet could be just the ticket.

The provincial capital is located midway between Bangkok and Chiang Mai along the main bus route, making it very easy to reach (see map). Kamphaeng Phet can also be accessed by bus from Sukhothai, 80 kilometres to the northeast. Accommodation is available at a handful of midrange hotels and one interesting resort, though most choose to stay at Three J Guesthouse.

Run by the affable Mr Charin, a Kamphaeng Phet native and veritable wealth of info on the area, Three J is one of the friendliest guesthouses we've come across in Thailand. Along with good vibes and simple rooms, the guesthouse offers tours of the area, a rural farm-stay programme and bicycle/motorbike rental. The motorbike selection is limited, so you may want to rent one up in Sukhothai and drive it down to Kamphaeng Phet.

Not the bus to Sukhothai.

Day 1 Set off on bicycle in the morning, but before you pedal straight to the ruins, take the time to soak up the pleasant air of Kamphaeng Phet's streets. After a northern Thai coffee or tea at one of several quality bakeries among the town's food offerings, make your way to the lively day market off Bumrangrat Road to see (and taste) fresh-picked local fruit among mounds of produce. It seems very few foreigners ever stroll the market's photogenic lanes -- don't be surprised if you leave a ripple of excitement in your wake.

Perusing Kamphaeng Phet's bounty.

With a bundle of the sweet, stumpy bananas (khluai kai) that Kamphaeng Phet is known for in your bicycle basket, head north past the quiet village temples and teak wood houses that line Tesa Road. Many of the dilapidated yet charming old homes double as food shops that dish out tasty egg noodle (ba-mii) soup with roast duck or pork. After a bowl (or three), continue north to the central zone of Kamphaeng Phet Historical Park.

An atmospheric Kamphaeng Phet noodle shop.

Kamphaeng Phet means "diamond wall" in Thai, and the city served as a western protectorate -- and thus front-line during Burmese invasions in 1559 and 1765 -- for both the Sukhothai and Ayutthaya kingdoms. Displaying artistic elements of both, the ruins at Kamphaeng Phet possess their own distinctive character. At Wat Phra Kaew, a serene trio of what are thought to be Ayutthaya-era Buddha images sit near Sukhothai-style elephant sculptures in exquisite condition.

Exemplifying the Buddhist teaching of No-Self?

Once you've had your fill of the central zone, mosey over to the National Museum and Ruan Thai Museum to gain a deeper understanding of Kamphaeng Phet's place in history. If you're the superstitious type, offer a flower garland at a shrine dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, believed by locals to protect all those who pass through the area.

Lovely place for a bike ride.

The Historical Park's sprawling northern zone contains no less than 40 individual sites connected by narrow paved roads that ramble through lush banyan tree forest. Temple complexes like Wat Phra Non and Wat Phra Si Ariyabot are home to centuries-old laterite stone Buddha images so weathered that they often resemble other-wordly beings. Be sure to make it all the way to the ancient laterite plateau flanked by 68 elephant sculptures at Wat Chang Rob.

So good, so cheap.

After your legs receive a well-deserved rest, your stomach will probably begin to rumble -- a sure-fire sign that it's time to hit the night market. Springing to life every evening around 17:00 near the river, this colourful congregation of prepared food and clothing stalls feels like the centre of Kamphaeng Phet's universe. Choose from grilled northern Thai sausage, spicy curries, salads and chilli pastes, whole fishes, noodle soup and khao man kai. For dessert, don't miss chao kuai, an icy treat of sweet gelatinous cubes made from grass jelly cultivated in Kamphaeng Phet province.

Day 2 Rise early, hop on a motorbike or in Three J's multi-coloured safari jeep and cruise west to Khlong Lan national park. Here you'll find a slice of heaven in the form of a 100 metre-high waterfall with several streams that cascade gracefully over a sheer rock cliff into a series of pools fit for sirens -- and backpackers. You could easily bask in the waterfall's beauty for several hours, but nature trails beckon visitors to venture deeper into the old growth.

And you thought the historical park was peaceful ...

As you leave Khlong Lan, be sure to stop off at a modest Karen village where traditional wears and foodstuffs can be purchased direct from people who have called these hills home for ages. To explore further into the remote Tanon Thong Chai mountains that stretch all the way to Umphang district and eventually to Burma, continue west to the solitary viewpoints and waterfalls of Mae Wong national park.

Into the green at Mae Wong.

By the time you arrive back in Kamphaeng Phet, the sun will probably hang low over the mountains from where you've just returned. Pass giggling children and open-fronted homes where the scent of family dinners wafts into the twilight as you stride to the city's generous recreational riverfront. Relax in one of a few pleasant parks, feed the fish or kick back for a foot massage while watching the sun dip into the vast Ping River.

Into the twilight along the Mae Ping.

The night market may call your name for a second round, but a fine alternative is Thai-style barbecued pork (muu-ka-ta). Locals converge nightly on the city's many open-air barbecue joints to enjoy leisurely cook-it-yourself dinners of thin-sliced pork and veggies, usually accompanied by cold beer. If you're not too exhausted, keep the suds flowing at one of several chilled out riverside pubs or thumping nightclubs on Bumrangrat Road. Don't worry, Kamphaeng Phet is a small and safe city -- you'll find your way back to the guesthouse.

Loaded with lakes, rivers, caves, temples, waterfalls, national parks, historical sites, picturesque villages and mountain vistas, the road to Sangkhlaburi is one of Thailand's most spectacular. Kanchanaburi town is known for its rafthouses and World War II sights, but for the very best of this enormous province, get some wheels and head to where the air is cool and the scenery sublime.

Route 323 meanders for some 225 kilometres from Kanchanaburi town to Sangkhlaburi (see map). With numerous blue signs pointing to dozens of attractions, a drive down the road can feel like checking out a menu of things to see and do. The best approach is to keep it slow, put on your explorer cap and stop often to climb a mountain, swim beneath a waterfall and sample the local food. The drive takes around four hours with no stops, so plan on at least a day or two each way. Add a minimum of two more days in Sangkhlaburi itself and the adventure can easily last a week or more.

Getting there is half the fun.

About 35 kilometres north of Kanchanaburi town off Route 323, Prasat Muang Singh is thought to have been the westernmost outpost of the Khmer empire. Surrounded by mountains and laid amid frangipani, jackfruit and banyan trees on tranquil grounds, these ancient ruins are a change from the area's many World War II sights. After a climb through the laterite temples, head to nearby Tham Krasae for soaring views of the River Khwae valley.

Prasat Muang Singh with no one else around.

Continuing northwest, 323 straddles sugar cane fields beneath jagged mountain peaks until it reaches Sai Yok Noi waterfall and the end of the Death Railway line at Nam Tok station. While more impressive waterfalls are found further up the road, Sai Yok Noi makes for a refreshing break and is a good spot to score a cheap Thai lunch -- don't miss the locally grown tamarind. Not far from here, it's possible to hike to Wang Badon cave or take a detour northeast to the majestic falls of Erawan National Park and cavernous Phra Tat cave.

Another 30 kilometres further northwest brings you to Hellfire Pass, the province's most moving and extensive World War II sight. In 1942-3, Allied POWs and Asian forced labourers laid tracks for the Burma-Thailand railway, better known as the Death Railway, a transport route used by the Japanese military during the war. More than 100,000 lives were lost during the railway's construction due to starvation, disease, accidents, exhaustion and beatings by Japanese guards.

Remnants of the railway at Hellfire Pass.

A section of the railway known as Hellfire Pass was considered by POWs to be the most difficult to construct due to the need to clear huge outcrops of rock on rugged mountain slopes. Visitors can peruse the outstanding museum and hike a memorial trail that spans several kilometres where the track was laid, including several stretches through rock cuttings made by the prisoners.

It can get extremely hot in Kanchanaburi province, and you'll probably be ready for a swim after a walk along the Hellfire Pass memorial trail. Conveniently located some 20 kilometres further north, Sai Yok National Park is the perfect spot to cool off. The River Khwae Noi cuts through the park and Sai Yok Yai waterfall cascades from atop a cliff directly into the river. After a jungle hike, dive into the clean water and swim up to a floating restaurant. National park accommodation, both floating and on land, is also available should you be ready to call it a day.

Sai Yok Yai National Park -- yes, I think we'll crash here tonight.

Sheltered by limestone cliffs further up the River Khwae, the friendly village of Thong Pha Phum offers a taste of the area's rural culture. Head straight into town to sample locally caught grilled river fish, Mon-style curries and fresh picked fruit at the riverside market.

Fresh catches in Thong Pha Phum.

You might then take a detour to mountaintop Wat Tha Kha Nun on the east side of the river, or Vajiralongkorn Dam just north of town. Built in the mid-80s, the dam formed the mountain-rimmed Vajiralongkorn Lake which extends all the way north to Sangkhlaburi town. Perched at the top of the dam, a lookout affords fantastic views of the lake to the north, the valley to the south and the vast green mountains that form the Burma border to the west.

Wat Tha Kha Nun as seen from Thong Pha Phum village.

If you're up for a more intrepid adventure, strike out west to the border outpost of Pilog and Thong Pha Phum National Park; bring plenty of gas as the road winds for miles through nothing but steep mountains covered in old growth jungle. Along with tropical plants and wildlife, several coffee plantations thrive in the Thong Pha Phum area. Some of the finest brew we've found anywhere in Thailand was at a roadside stand near Thong Pha Phum.

North of Thong Pha Phum village, the scenery becomes increasingly dramatic and 323 lives up to its billing as one of Thailand's most spectacular roads. The sparsely travelled two-lane thoroughfare slides past forested mountains, towering bamboo trees and rural temples with natural caves as meditation halls. Take it slow and soak up the cool air.

Even bathroom breaks are beautiful here.

The road periodically emerges into countryside villages with modest homes clustered on rafts over Vajiralongkorn Lake. At this point, the drive is so enjoyable that you might not be too concerned with attractions, but a few more natural wonders are worth stops before arriving in Sangkhlaburi.

We're not in Bangkok anymore.

With several sets of falls that empty into crystal clear emerald pools and conceal secret nooks in the rocks, Krueng Krawia waterfall is an excellent venue for a dip. If you prefer to wade in steaming hot water, take a side trip to nearby Hin Tat hot springs.

Krueng Krawia -- a one-minute walk from the main road.

Further north, Khao Laem National Park features hiking trails and impressive waterfalls of its own, and nearby Pom Pee viewpoint is a relaxing place to sit back and dangle your feet in the lake. If you arrive in the late afternoon, be sure to stick around for sunset.

Pom Pee also has a few bungalows for rent.

From here, Sangkhlaburi is only 35 kilometres further north, reachable after a steep climb higher into the mountains. Although the road is one of the area's greatest highlights, it doesn't overshadow the town itself. Sangkhlaburi's relaxed atmosphere, colourful Mon village and boat trips to a sunken town make it an unforgettable destination. Its hand-made wooden bridge recently collapsed in a storm, but a temporary floating bridge has replaced it for now.

The journey doesn't end when you get to Sangkhlaburi.

Sadly, this bridge is no more, but it'll no doubt be back.

If there's anywhere in Thailand to splurge on your own wheels, it's Kanchanaburi province. Cars or motorbikes can be rented in Kanchanaburi town. Many attractions are situated immediately off Route 323, making it also possible to undertake the trip by bus and/or minibus. These pass about once per hour from early morning to late afternoon and will typically pick up passengers anywhere along the road. To see what the trip might be like by motorbike, check out Fearful Adventurer's account.

If youve been to one of Bangkoks famous muay Thai (Thai boxing) stadiums, Lumpini or Rajadamnern, you know how brutally effective this so-called art of eight-limbs can be: fallen combatants are regularly removed from the ring by stretcher. An increasing number of travellers to Bangkok arent content to merely watch the sport -- they want to get their hands dirty and experience or train muay Thai.

Until a few years ago, this usually meant heading up country and putting in a month or more at a muay Thai camp intended mostly for Thai athletes. Language barriers, training regimes and the vast gulf in skill between foreign beginners and local boxers made this a daunting prospect, to say the least. Fortunately, several gyms have now opened in Bangkok that cater mostly to foreigners and well-heeled Thais looking to get some exercise.

Time to work up a sweat.

The best-equipped and most serious place to study muay Thai in Bangkok is Fighting Spirit Gym, or FSG, which is run by Australian Dan Lyons, a former pro fighter. Located a short walk from Chong Nonsi BTS Station on the Silom Line, FSG has everything you need to get a serious workout, with a full machine/weight gym, a separate gym for cardio workouts with treadmills and stationary bikes, a workout area with a variety of punching and kicking bags, a boxing ring and a pro shop. You dont need to bring anything but shorts and a T-shirt (a changing room, bathroom and showers are available). Hand wraps, boxing gloves, jump ropes and leg pads are all there for your use and in excellent condition.

FSG has a staff of five Thai trainers, one full-time Brazilian jujitsu/MMA trainer, and Dan himself, who offers private lessons for advanced or particularly keen students. All the Thai trainers are former pros with an average of 65 bouts under their belts. They all speak enough English to put you through one of the most intense workouts youre likely to experience anywhere.

The standard group lesson starts with five minutes of jumping rope (sounds easy until you try it in the Bangkok heat and humidity), with a break, and then five 4-minute rounds working one-on-one with the trainers, following their commands to hit, kick, knee or elbow their pads (with the odd break in between for coaching on technique and so on). Unless youre already in superb shape and have some experience with this sort of high-intensity training, youre likely to find yourself looking at the clock and wishing it would speed up.

About 40% of the people who train at FSG are travellers or short-term residents of Bangkok, and about 40% of the members are women, and these include people of all ages, from children to those approaching 70 years of age.

It is as hard as it looks.

First timers are often surprised by just how hard the workouts are. Dan says, The most important thing is to leave your ego at the door. Dont think youre Superman. Dont damage your body. It takes a while to get used to the heat, humidity and pollution in Bangkok.

For those with some martial arts training and even pro muay Thai and MMA fighters, FSG is the ideal place to polish your skills or keep sharp while on vacation. The Thai trainers are willing (and more than able) to slow things down to your level or go as hard as you want to go. Dan will even set up sparring sessions for those who want to go beyond pad work. I dont usually have guests spar with the Thai trainers, because theyre just too good and you can lose your confidence. Instead, I try to pair people up with members of the same skill level. The gym also has regular fight nights for members who really want to put their skills to the test.

Stanley Phan, the gyms American-born Brazilian jujitsu/MMA trainer with six professional bouts under his belt, says, For travellers, Id recommend coming here and doing two or three classes of muay Thai and MMA, to learn what its like fighting on the ground and fighting standing up. With the increasing popularity of MMA on pay-per-view and the internet, more and more people are following his advice.

If youre staying down on or near Khao San Road and just want to get a taste of muay Thai without making the trek downtown, the Sor Vorapin Gym, located a short walk from Khao San Road (at the wat end of the street) is a good choice. They hold twice-daily lessons in the morning and afternoon in a simple gym located behind the Hakesher Tourist Centre & Restaurant (you can cut through the restaurant to get to the gym).

If you find the level of intensity too much at FSG and want to work out downtown, Legend Thai Boxing is a new fully indoor facility that caters mostly to wealthy locals and expats in the Silom/Sathorn area. Its got everything you need to work out, right down to an attached massage facility, where you can get all the kinks worked out after a session.

Lastly, if you're keen to try something a tad different, an ancient form of muay Thai -- muay Chaiya -- is taught at Baan Chang Thai arts and muay Chai school. Muay Chaiya emphasises control, concentration and patience, and aims to take advantage of an opponents energy by re-directing it at the right moment. We've covered this interesting place before here.

Fighting Spirit Gym (FSG)
http://fightingspiritgym.com
T: (085) 966 7898
Open Mon-Sat 07:00-09:00, 15:00-19:00, Sun 15:00-19:00
Private lessons daily 09:00-15:00
Group lessons 300 baht per session or 4,000 baht per month for one daily session
Brazilian jujitsu and MMA available, along with accommodation.
Transport: Five minutes walk from Chong Nonsi BTS, off Silom Road

Sor Vorapin Gym
http://www.thaiboxings.com
T: (02) 282 3551
Open daily 07:30-9:30am, 15:00-17:00
500 baht per two-hour group session.
Transport: Five minutes walk from Khao San Road, 10 minutes walk from Phra Athit pier

Legend Thai Boxing (LTB)
http://www.legendthaiboxing.com
T: (02) 632 1881
Open daily 09:00-22:00
Day pass 500 baht, 10 group classes 4,500 baht, one-month unlimited 5,000 baht Transport: 15 minutes walk from Chong Nonsi BTS or Lumpini MRT

Baan Chang Thai Arts and Muay Chaiya
http://www.samkhum.com
T: (023) 913 807 ; (081) 812 8087 ; (089) 204 0843
Group muay Chaiya lessons are 800 baht for four two-hour lessons held Fri-Sun, private lessons by appointment at 10,000 baht for 12 two-hour lessons.
Transport: 20 minutes' walk from Ekkamai BTS

You're cosying up with your spouse-to-be, scanning through pages of turquoise seas, fancypants hotels and experiences of a lifetime, trying to decide on a honeymoon destination. Chances are that Cambodia isn't at the top of the list for unforgettable romance, but if you want to stretch your budget without sacrificing the exotic, perhaps it should be.

Paradise beaches

Imagining photos of you and your newly-hitched frolicking on a white beach with a glass of something fruity in hand, with further fruitiness happening off camera? Smooching as the sun sets into the ocean? Feasting on freshly caught crab? Cambodia's islands make under-populated beaches accessible to the budget-conscious. The most expensive accommodation on Koh Rong Samloem is $45 a night at Saracen Bay Resort, beautifully-made beach bungalows with a view to marry for.

1 happy couple + sunset = honeymoon memory.

Expat favourite Lazy Beach is also worth a look, with sensational sunsets on a private beach. Have a head for heights? Fall asleep to the sound of lapping waves under your treehouse at aptly-named Treehouse Bungalows on neighbouring Koh Rong.

Not too shabby.

Stories for the grandkids

If your honeymoon is setting the tone for your married life together, a bit of excitement should be a given. Rolling around in a small basket attached to a large pachyderm strolling through the jungle is a story for the grandkids. Elephant trekking is possible in the northeastern provinces of Mondulkiri or Ratanakiri; if you have ethical reservations, get up close and personal at the Elephant Valley Project in Sen Monorom instead. You can also get astride a motorbike (faster and with less stops for bamboo munching) and sling your hammock for a overnight jungle experience.

Erm, there's an elephant in the ensuite ...

Battambang's Bamboo Railway is still providing fairground thrills through paddy on improvised 'carriages', although the creeping rehabilitation of Cambodia's railway system means it won't be there for long. Recapture those heady days of whirlwind emotions by racing along over buckled rails -- speed is relative when you're holding on to a slatted bamboo platform and the driver is applying the brakes with a stick.

Life is a rollercoaster.

Cambodian roads are sometimes no less exhilarating, on two or four wheels. Nature Cambodia will take you for the dirt bike ride to remember with an Easy Rider burn around the countryside, rider provided if you prefer watch the scenery from the pillion. Grab hold of the handlebars for a quadbike tour of paddy, forest and villages, with a visit to the Phnom Tamao wildlife centre and a sunset thrown in ($110 per person for a full day Blazing Trails tour, shorter tours also available).

The road to who knows where.

Temple twosome

It is almost a crime to visit Cambodia without making a trip to the temples at Siem Reap -- which means they can get a little crowded, especially the must-see Angkor Wat, Bayon and Ta Phrom (yep, the Tomb Raider one). Think outside the guidebook and head to Banteay Kdei for a peaceful and beautiful daybreak with some genuine romance. When the sun sets, the often missed hilltop temple of Phnom Krom makes a great alternative to the crowds at Bakheng.

Not so far from the madding crowd.

Of course, you can hire a tuk tuk or bicycles and rough it with the rest around the temples, but this is your honeymoon, right? You're high on love, why not get a bit higher? Helicopters Cambodia offer rides to suit most budgets: $90 per person for an eight-minute swoop over Angkor Wat and nearby temples, up to a whopping $430 for 48 minutes, including Phnom Krom. For a more graceful float, you could get airborne at sunrise or sunset for $125 for a 45 minute flight in a hot air balloon; if you like to maintain a connection with the ground, tethered hot air balloon 'flights' are just $15 for 15 minutes throughout the day. Be warned, alas, of safety concerns; consider that you could be brought back to earth with a bump.

Pick up a few new dance moves.

Living in luxury

Chances are you'll spend some time in Phnom Penh, and this is one capital city where you can live it up without taking out a second mortgage. Surrounded by a lush garden inside the high walls of Phnom Penh's Pavilion, create your own colonial fantasy in a 1920s villa built by Queen Kossamak. Make like movie stars in a room with your own private pool (from $100 a night) and indulgent daily massages in the on-site spa. Not swanky enough? Then join the likes of Jacqueline Kennedy and Charlie Chaplin by booking in at Raffles Hotel Le Royal. The old world atmosphere starts with the doorman's outfit and continues through beautiful architecture and attention to detail. Rooms come with silk robes, bathtubs and butler service, but you'll have to bring your own sense of smugness.

Get your swank on.

If the wedding magazines have convinced you that no honeymoon is complete without an over-water hotel, try 4 Rivers Floating Lodge in Koh Kong. This is glamping at its best: luxury tents with private terraces on floating pontoons. There's no WiFi, leaving you free to focus on moonlight swimming, misty mountains and dancing fireflies. The beautiful Tatai waterfalls and a private sunset cruise will provide picture perfect moments that will have you wondering why you didn't get married sooner.

Knai Bang Chatt, also known as The Sailing Club in Kep, is a beautifully simple and tasteful resort in the seaside town made popular by French colonialists. Although not cheap by Cambodian standards, do the currency conversion and you're likely to check the calculator. Private candlelit dinner for two at the end of the jetty? Done. Personal fishing tour to catch your dinner? Can. Stunning sunset previously enjoyed by Brangelina? Of course! Fill your days with seaview massages, yoga in the gardens and cocktails at the infinity pool, or get energetic (tsk, not like that!) with kayaks and windsurfing.

The words you're looking for are 'muoy dtiet' -- one more!

Siem Reap is blessed with a plentiful supply of chic boutiques and luxury hotels in iconic buildings. For an intimate feel, FCC Angkor in the former Governor's Residence is understatedly elegant with consistently good food. Rainfall showers and waterfall bath tubs will have you rushing back for your ablutions. For wow factor with a price tag to match, Raffles Hotel D'Angkor and the Park Hyatt Siem Reap provide supreme levels of comfort after an arduous day of apsaras and architectural appreciation.

In silliness and in heavy makeup.

Before you head home, book in for some alternative wedding photos at a studio in Phnom Penh or Siem Reap. These stylised, Photoshopped images are displayed in large scale format at Khmer weddings and take pride of place in many homes. It's honestly the best $15 you're ever going to spend, and you'll treasure the results.

Cambodia has all the ingredients for an exotic, laid-back honeymoon with plenty of romance and dates to rival The Bachelor. It might be time to revise that wedding list. Forget the toaster, add a Khmer phrase book!

For further information

Saracen Bay Resort
Saracen Bay, Koh Rong Samloem
T: (016) 997 047
www.saracenbay-resort-cambodia.com | Check rates with Agoda

Lazy Beach
Western side, Koh Rong Samloem
T: (016) 214 211, (017) 456 536
www.lazybeachcambodia.com

Treehouse Bungalows
Koh Touch beach, Koh Rong, southeast side
T: (016) 594 177, (015) 207 719, (090) 900 740
treehouse-bungalows.com

Elephant Valley Project
Svay Jek Village, Sen Monorom, Mondulkiri
T: (099) 696041
www.elephantvalleyproject.org

Nature Cambodia
Choeung Ek, Phnom Penh
T: (012) 676 381
nature-cambodia.com

Helicopters Cambodia
#658 St Hup Quan, Siem Reap
T: (063) 963 316
www.helicopterscambodia.com

Angkor Ballooning
Sivutha Road, Old Market, Siem Reap
T: (069) 558888
www.angkorballooning.com

The Pavilion
227 Street 19, Phnom Penh
T: (023) 222 280
www.thepavilion.asia

Raffles Hotel Le Royal
92 Rukhak Vithei, off Monivong Blvd, Phnom Penh
T: (023) 981 888
www.raffles.com/phnom-penh | Check rates with Agoda

4 Rivers Floating Lodge
Koh Andet Island, Tatai Village, Koh Kong
www.ecolodges.asia | Check rates with Agoda

Knai Bang Chatt
Phum Thmey, Sangkat Prey Thom, Kep
T: (078) 888556
www.knaibangchatt.com | Check rates with Agoda

FCC Angkor
Pokambor Rd, Siem Reap
T: (063) 760 280
www.fcccambodia.com | Check rates with Agoda

Raffles Hotel D'Angkor
1 Vithea Charles de Gaulle, Siem Reap
T: (063) 963 888
www.raffles.com/siem-reap | Check rates with Agoda

Park Hyatt Siem Reap
Sivutha Boulevard, Siem Reap
T: (063) 211 234
siemreap.park.hyatt.com | Check rates with Agoda

Many travellers pass through Krabi town as quickly as possible, seeing it as nothing more than a jumping off point for Ko Phi Phi and Ko Lanta. Before (or after) you dash off to the beach though, we recommend a day or two to let this riverside town work its magic. Those who linger are rewarded with cheap yet fabulous food, a relaxed atmosphere and several worthwhile attractions.

It's true that the city of 25,000 doesn't seem like much at first glance cookie cutter concrete shophouses line the main roads and life bustles as it does in any small Thai city. Considering some of the world's best beaches are an easy boat ride away, it's easy to see why the town gets overlooked. Like most of Thailand's provincial capitals, it takes some time and effort to uncover Krabi town's treasures, the first of which is its exceptional local food.

Krabi town: more to it than gorilla street lights, though they are pretty cool, right?

Krabi town: more to it than gorilla traffic lights, though they are pretty cool, right?

At the heart of Krabi town, Maharaj Market is lined with hundreds of authentic curries, soups, fried fishes and chilli pastes. Pile your rice high with addictive gaeng nuea (beef curry), curried frogs or gaeng som (sour yellow curry with fish), perhaps with a side of fresh local mangoes to ease the spice. If you're not up for the heat, go for a mild but equally tasty plate of khao mok kai (Muslim-Thai style biryani rice with chicken). With a slab of deep-fried roti, wood-fired kopi or milky Thai iced tea for dessert, you'll quickly forget the watered down, over-priced Thai food that's all too common in the islands.

A little of this, a little of that.

While the food is reason enough for us to stick around, Krabi town is also a pleasant spot to simply loll around for a day or two. Climb the dragon-guarded steps to lavish Wat Kaew. Relax in a riverside gazebo at Thara Park. Sit back for a drink in one of of the many inviting cafes and bars. Even Krabi's busiest streets aren't really "busy", and the town retains a laidback local character despite the area's huge tourism trade.

The welcoming committee at Wat Kaew.

For a glimpse of rural southern Thai fishing village life, hop on a cross-river ferry to Ko Klang and cycle or stroll among the modest houses and colourful boats. Few foreigners make it to this mangrove island, but the slow-paced atmosphere and great bird watching can be a highlight for the right sort of traveller. If you prefer to see the area from a longtail boat, Chao Fah pier has no shortage to whisk you through the narrow streams of Ko Klang and caves of Khao Kanab Nam.

Though for many the Krabi area calls to mind only one thing beaches a handful of nature-oriented attractions are worth checking out in the province's inland reaches. North of town in the Ao Luek area, Than Bok Khrarani national park is home to waterfalls that gush over smooth-sloped tiers into emerald pools. Kayaking enthusiasts might cruise the national park's web of inland rivers that meander through lagoons and caves, some of which contain 3,000 year-old cave drawings in pristine condition.

One of Huay Toh Waterfall's 11 tiers.

Closer to Krabi town and easily reached by motorbike, Khao Phanom Bencha national park boasts the area's most spectacular waterfall Nam Tok Huay Toh. Sourced from the majestic 1,350 metre-high Phanom Bencha mountain, the falls cascade over 11 tiers, including a dramatic 70 metre-high cliff with a swimworthy pool at its base. Take the trail that leads up to several smaller, more isolated falls to find a pool of crystal clear mountain water all for yourself.

Easily visited on the way to or from Khao Phanom Bencha, don't miss the "tiger cave temple", or Wat Tham Seua. This forest Buddhist temple complex includes a wooded meditation centre, a massive statue of Kuan Yin and a cave where a wild tiger often took shelter back when the temple served as a safe haven during the Communist insurgency of the 1970s. If you can manage all 1,237 steps and the brazen water-thieving monkeys that hang around on them a breezy platform affords magnificent views of mountains, cliffs, rivers, city and sea.

Looking west from atop Wat Tham Seua; the eastern view is even better.

Looking west from atop Wat Tham Seua; the eastern sea view is even better.

Spending a day or two in Krabi town has one more advantage a wide selection of inexpensive, quality accommodation. With guesthouses like PN, Gafiyah and Chan-Cha-Lay offering comfy digs in the 200 to 600 baht range, you could easily enjoy Krabi town for as little as 500 baht per day. If you stick around for an extended period, the picture-perfect beaches and phenomenal rockclimbing of Railay and lively atmosphere of Ao Nang can easily be reached as day trips.

Compared to the inflated prices of nearby island and beach destinations, Krabi's inexpensive rooms and meals tend to keep backpackers hanging around, but we feel an extra day in Krabi town won't disappoint even if you've more to spend. Don't worry the beach isn't going anywhere.