We're often asked about our picks for where to go when travellers have a certain amount of time up their sleeve, or what the best time of year is for going to this island or those mountains. With weather in mind, and pretending for a moment that we could travel right through 2013, here's where we'd go in Southeast Asia over the next year based on where we've already been and what we've read about when it comes to where we want to go.

January: Ko Kut, Thailand
This is one of the few developed Thai islands that we've never set foot on. Our researchers have though and Ko Kut sounds like the perfect kind of place to ease in the New Year. Think long beaches, a comprehensive range of accommodation (from the cheap to the super luxurious) and in January, delightful weather.

Exploring.

February: Hoi An, Vietnam
I've been to Hoi An many times over the years and while it's a fully developed tourist destination nowadays, it remains a beautiful and charming town. Get up early to wander the fresh produce market by the river, munch your way through the day at the many cafes and noodle outlets and wind up on the beach for the late afternoon. And if the vendor hassle gets too much, make a beeline for nearby An Bang beach, where the monsoon should just be easing off.

A quiet road in Hoi An.

March: Hua Phan province, Laos
One of Laos' most isolated regions, Hua Phan's history is as fascinating as its landscape is stunning. Spend time visiting the cave systems that first served as shelter during the American war and then prisons afterwards. This is untouristed Laos at it's best.

The road to Sam Neua.

April: Perhentians, Malaysia
It's been almost 15 years since we've wandered the beaches here and we'd go back in a heartbeat. On this first (and only) visit we stumbled upon what remains one of the most stunning beaches we've seen in Southeast Asia. We need to revisit Little Perhentian to see if it is still there; we wouldn't mind another swim with the turtles, either.

May: Flores, Indonesia
With its fancy new airport, everyone is talking about Lombok, but I'd suggest casting a stone a little further east to Flores. Once there, I'd be setting aside a considerable stretch of time for beach and snorkelling research.

June: Si Phan Don, Laos
The 4,000 islands in southern Laos get pretty busy (by Lao standards) in high season, so why not buck the trend and go at the peak of the wet season in June? The crowds should be as low as the river is high, making for a relaxing slow week aside with just a hammock and a river view to distract. Take some good books and get offline for a bit.

Slow days on Don Dhet.

July: Joochiat, Singapore
Joochiat remains our favourite part of Singapore. Excellent food, a vibrant night scene -- it's sleazy by Singaporean standards so not uncomfortably so -- and a hop, skip and a jump into the more central parts of the city where we'd get our museum fix and do a bit of shopping. We thoroughly recommend doing the Betelbox food tour for a taste of what's on offer around here, too.

Go fly a kite.

August: Sumatra, Indonesia
Another Indonesian island province we're yet to explore, in August I'd love a lazy month taking in Sumatra from top to tail. Kick off at Pulau Weh, then Aceh and Lake Toba before slowly weaving our way down the spine of the province, finishing off with a view to Krakatau off the southern tip. Oh and eating quite a bit. No, actually a lot.

September: Kuching, Malaysia
Just about everyone I know who has been to Kuching says they'd happily live there, so I'll be a visit virgin in 2013 both for the town itself and the outlying Bako National Park, which our researcher in Sarawak has handily just covered.

Croc or cannon?

October: Cardamom Mountains, Cambodia
Cambodia's poster child for eco-tourism, the reports remain resoundingly positive from the interesting and low-key Cardamoms. I'd probably cheat and combine it with a revisit to Koh Kong which itself has some great beaches, river trips and other distractions.

The boat from Andoung Teuk.

November: Umphang, Thailand
Umphang is one of our favourite destinations in Thailand. Stunning scenery and, if border conditions/security allow, we'd love to finally undertake the seven-day trek south to Sangkhlaburi, which weaves you across (illegally) into Karen State in Burma. Best thing in doing this is getting to go to Sangkhlaburi too.

Now that's a bridge. Sangkhlaburi.

December: Koh Rong, Cambodia
Where better to finish 2013 off than the picture-postcard perfect island of Koh Rong, off the Cambodian south coast. Koh Rong is appearing at the top of a lot of hot destination lists at the moment, so this is one of those places we'd advise heading to sooner rather than later.

Just another day on the beach...

What would be on your wishlist for 2013?

Coconut trees crouch over white sands, limestone cliffs soar from clear aquamarine water and another magnificent sunset unfolds; it must be the Andaman Sea off the southwest coast of Thailand. The decision to visit this, one of the world's most idyllic destinations, is an easy one, but choosing an island or two can be tough. Settling into a single island for a solid chunk of time is the best way to fully unwind, but if seeking adventure, why not hop till you drop by way of high-speed ferries?

Several companies run speedboats that connect many of the best Andaman islands during the November to March high season, with plenty of more out-of-the-way islands reachable via private longtail boats. Beginning on Phuket and finishing up way down in Malaysia's Langkawi, you could conceivably chill out on 22 different islands without ever setting foot on the mainland -- and you don't need your own private yacht to do it. Here are some options to satisfy both the beach bum and Magellan in you.

So where to tomorrow?

Weather
It's essential to visit the Andaman Sea at the right time of year if wanting to take advantage of island hopping routes. The early bird boats get started early to mid November and finish up mid to late March while others, such as the large Tigerline, don't set sail until December. Arrive between December and February for the widest range of options. If you visit between April 1 and October 31, be prepared to head back to the mainland and travel by mini-bus/local ferry between each island as it's too dangerous to attempt these relatively long stretches on open sea during the monsoon.

Ko Ngai taxi.

Suggested trip length
Unless your primary desire is to feel the wind through your hair on daily speedboat rides, we would recommend at least two or three days on whichever islands you choose, not including travel days. Plan on a solid two to three months if you actually want to attempt visiting all of the islands mentioned here -- and if you can swing that, boy do we envy you.

Ko Lipe: All welcome.

Logistics
Keep in mind that it's best to purchase each ferry route individually rather than by way of the "open tickets" offered by some travel companies as it can be difficult to find the right boat down the line and travel offices aren't always willing to help if you're not buying tickets from them. The one exception is Tigerline, which offers direct booking via its website and provides instructions on where to meet the boat. With that said, the smaller speedboats are speedier and more fun than the big Tigerline ferries. We've yet to try all of these, but we have enjoyed consistently smooth rides with Bundhaya.

Ko Bulon Lae: Quit your job now.

Also note that the mainland is reachable from virtually all of these islands, and boat tickets to anywhere can be easily arranged through guesthouses or travel companies. On the national park islands, simply contact the visitor centre when you're ready to go and they'll point you to the right boat. Prices can run anywhere from 100 baht for a short longtail ride, such as from Ko Lipe to Ko Adang, to more than 2,000 baht for longer distances. Most of the legs take less than an hour but expect a half-day of skimming the waves if going from, for example, Ko Lanta to Ko Lipe.

Ko Adang: Climb the hill, earn the swim.

The main island hopping route
Most speedboat companies run the following route daily in either direction, starting in either Ko Lipe or Ko Phi Phi in the morning and arriving at one or the other by late afternoon.

Ko Phi Phi > Ko Lanta > Ko Ngai > Ko Muk > Ko Bulon Lae > Ko Lipe

Ko Lanta: You've earned that massage.

A few companies stop at Ko Kradan as well, which can also be reached via a private longtail from Ko Muk. At least one boat also makes a stop at Ko Lao Liang, Ko Jum, Ko Libong and Ko Tarutao, respectively. Ko Jum is also reachable via a direct ferry from Ko Lanta, and Ko Si Boya is reachable from Ko Jum by longtail. You can also get to Railay direct from Ko Phi Phi, though that would be cheating as it's technically on the mainland.

Nai Yang Beach, Phuket. Overcrowded ... not.

The Phuket zone
Not surprisingly, Thailand's biggest and most visited island offers direct boats to a range of nearby islands. Low-key escapes like Ko Maiton, Coral and Raya Islands, Ko Lone, Ko Yao Yai and Ko Yao Noi are reachable from various piers around Phuket. Keep in mind however that these islands are not on the larger island hopping routes -- you'll need to first return to Phuket and then catch one of countless daily departures for Ko Phi Phi to link up with the speedboats that cruise further south.

Langkawi: Plenty of empty sand.

The Lipe / Langkawi zone
Several boats also run back and forth from Ko Lipe to Langkawi, making it possible to cross the border without going back to the mainland. We can't imagine a more fun place to enter Thailand than Lipe's charming immigration building slap bang on the fine sands of Pattaya beach. From Ko Lipe, a private longtail can take you to its national park island neighbours, Ko Rawi and Ko Adang. It's also a breeze to get dropped off at Ko Tarutao by one of the many speedboats that connect Lipe to Pakbara on the mainland.

Ko Kradan: Itinerary destroyer.

Suggested itinerary
Possibilities are endless and your own itinerary should reflect your tastes, but if we had a few weeks to hop around the Andaman we'd seek a mix of kicking back on picture perfect beaches, back to nature activities like kayaking, hiking and snorkelling, settling into a comfy spot with good eating and nightlife for a little while, and also some bare bones bungalow time on at least one not-so-touristy island. Here's an example:

Ko Rok: Call me Crusoe.

Start off with a solid four days on activity-rich Ko Lanta, then cruise to Ko Muk for a three- to four-day stay including a side trip to the stunning beaches and great snorkelling of Ko Kradan. Next, head for a comfy and lively week on Ko Lipe, with some mountain trekking thrown in on Ko Adang. Finally, we'd lose ourselves on enchanting Ko Bulon Lae for a few last days before returning to the real world, at which point the story has two possible endings.

There is always next year!

Either you'll slide back into normal life and work feeling refreshed while secretly relishing the jealousy in co-workers' eyes upon seeing your deep chestnut tan. Or, you'll be so entranced by the island hopping experience that you'll quit your job and end up back in the Andaman within a matter of months. Be warned -- the latter is a lot more common than you think.

If only a certain '80s singer had heard of this particular border crossing drama then an Austrian capital wouldn't have a theme song. Such are the wondrous stories which are conjured up by travellers who otherwise would enjoy only a simple stamp in their passport.

The Thai-Cambodia crossing of Aranya Prathet-Poipet has been known as one of the worst in Southeast Asia for many years now, and I have either been lucky or misfortunate enough to have crossed it three times in seven years on my way to Siem Reap. In that time many things have changed but there are still multiple scams to watch out for on this crossing and no one traveller is likely to escape them all. This article has been written to try to compare the past with the present in a vain attempt to convince the contemporary traveller that things have definitely improved, though not in the way they might think.

Thailand, 2005 and 2012

2005, 7am:
Most travellers who make their way to Cambodia start their journey on Khao San Road, and so did we in 2005, spending roughly 650 baht for a ticket to Siem Reap, which included the border crossing transfer in Cambodia. We had little idea what we were letting ourselves in for except that according to Lonely Planet the journey was "tough" and Poipet was a "cesspit". But despite our fears the trip started fine and we were well away from Bangkok within an hour.

It all starts here.

2012, 7am:
A cheap ticket (priced at only 400 baht) from the island of Ko Chang convinced us that it was easier to give our cash to a travel agent to get us to Siem Reap than to try getting to the mainland and getting a public bus from there. We knew the obvious scams but agreed, if only for time's sake. It seemed cheap, pick-up was at 07:00 and we were near the border by 11:00. There were six of us in total, me and two companions plus three people we didn't know.

2005, 13:00:
We were driven to the border and shepherded into a line and given a sticker. Someone took our passports and came back with our visas after demanding their fee, which was slightly more than the $15-$20 for the crossing. There were about a dozen of us who weren't sure what was happening at the time but looked to each other for reassurance. The border checkpoint went fine and we crossed over into Cambodia with few problems.

2012, 12:30:
We were driven to a cheap restaurant near the border and, with a menu curtly shoved in our palms, asked to buy food. The three of us agreed to give our passports over for 1,200 baht, plus 100 baht because we didn't have photos on us. We expected this to cover pictures being taken in a photo booth but weren't asked for anything. Instead we found out that the 100 baht was a bribe to the Cambodian military to cover the fact that we didn't have photos and we were driven to the border with our Cambodian visas in hand. The other three travellers we were with refused to pay 1,200 baht and were left at the restaurant.

We arrived at the border and were met by an agent who took us to a car park and went into very precise detail on exactly what he thought we needed to know. He went to great lengths to make sure we had our right stamps, arrival cards filled in, visas, money, and even gave us a fairly detailed description of life in Cambodia "where there are no ATMs, and it isn't like Western country where credit card is King". He also mentioned that the country doesn't use US dollars much anymore. Having lived in Cambodia we knew both of these to be a lie, but he was convincing enough for anyone happening to cross the border for first time to get them to exchange money at a dodgy exchange rate. We crossed the border fine and were met by our agent at the other side.

Oh Poipet!

2005, 14:00 Cambodia
Our little red stickers saw us duly collected on the other side of the border and kindly escorted to a minivan for the next stage of our journey. We were introduced to our guide/driver and given a 'Welcome to Cambodia' speech. At this point we (all travellers in the van) were first asked about our guesthouse, but thought nothing of it.

2012, 14:00 Cambodia
After Checkpoint Charlie the various travellers reassembled at the side of the large roundabout in Poipet. At the time we didn't know it but as Lonely Planet say, we were 'part of a monopoly who had paid the Cambodian government to run services for foreigners at a profit'. We weren't asked to pay any more money, and our three fellow travellers who refused to pay the higher fee rejoined us (more on this later).

2005, 15:00
The initial joy of negotiating the Cambodian border was waylaid by the fact we hadn't moved much in over an hour. Our driver soon stopped talking to us (feigning ignorance) and our guide disappeared.

2012, 15:00
We were driven to a bus station seven miles or so out of town and things felt a little fishy, but we were reassured that a bus would take us to Siem Reap. The three travellers who refused to pay the extra 400 baht at the border said that the agents eventually relented and took them to the border, but one person's return ticket was torn up. The officials we were with said they were 'employees of the Cambodian Government' and this was fairly convincing. The bus station was new, and we were again given the chance to exchange currency as 'Cambodia doesn't have any modern banks, and many places don't accept the dollar'.

How the road used to be (on a good day)

2005, 18:00
By now we had been on the road for three hours since the border and already stopped once, much to some people's annoyance. The sun was going down and many wondered how far it was to Siem Reap. The road was terrible, mud filled the potholes and very little was left for the van to negotiate around. Even so, our progress seemed a little slow.

2012, 18:00
After being given a precise speech on not only the distance but how many stops we would make along the way our bus was about halfway to Siem Reap. I was relieved to see the road in good condition, and by the time the sun set we were well into Pursat province with only a slightly overpriced beer to our detriment.

2005, 20:00
The bus slowly ground on and by now most people had made each other's acquaintance and shared their worries about the road, how long it would take, where we would end up, and so on. A young American woman took it upon herself to start asking the awkward questions we all wanted to ask to the driver, such as "Where the hell are we going?"

2012, 20:00
The bus pulled into Siem Reap as promised and we nabbed a cheap tuk tuk into town. In essence the crossing ordeal was over; it took just over twelve hours in total. Not great but nothing a 50c beer on Siem Reap's Pub Street couldn't solve.

Yes, it is worth the effort.

2005, 22:00
Still on the road and by now the entire bus was in agreement that the service was a complete sham. The bus driver had his mobile in one hand, and his other on the wheel, the bus lurching violently as he steered it along the edge of the road, where the biggest holes were. Lazily driving through the potholes the driver caught up with his family; the slow driving was a deliberate ploy to get us into Siem Reap as late as possible.

2005, 00:00
As the clock turned midnight the minivan could only be described as being in open revolt. Most of us were offended that we'd been lied to, we had stopped four times in seven hours and it was way too late to try to find a room in Siem Reap. The driver knew this and said he was taking us to a local guesthouse. The American girl, though, had a plan - we were all to head en masse to a different establishment.

2005, 01:15
We finally arrived in Siem Reap, at a guesthouse not of our choosing, and the street exploded into argument. Simply put, we were coerced into staying in the place we hadn't agreed to. When we refused one Cambodian said bluntly "I'll kill you."

It was at that moment I grabbed my girlfriend and we got into the first tuk tuk we could find. It was probably our worst introduction to a county in 10 years of travelling.

Conclusion

The simple conclusion is that the scams involved in getting to Cambodia are still as prevalent as before, they are simply a little more subtle. The main amount of money is made at the border crossing currency exchange, which offers pathetically bad exchange rates and the information disseminated by 'government agents' is almost all designed to scare you into changing money.

Even so, the actual border crossing itself is immensely better than before and getting into Siem Reap without being harassed into a dodgy guesthouse was a big relief.

If you travel independently you can certainly avoid almost all the scams, however our ticket (priced at 400 baht) did feel cheap. We were willing to pay a bit of extra on the Thai side of the border for the Cambodian visa for this precise reason.

Ultimately the only way to avoid feeling cheated completely is to do it 100% independently or fly.

You thought you could relax with the Western new year celebrations out of the way? Think again. The whole of Vietnam is now warming up for the Tet holidays -- noticed all those police stop points and fields full of lucky trees recently? If you're heading this way February 10 to 14 this year, consider what this will mean for your trip. The whole country will be on a go-slow for at least a week either side; Vietnam becomes gridlocked, garish and glorious and contrary to most traveller stories it is in fact an amazing time to be here. That is, so long as you're armed with a little knowledge on customs, protocol and a calm smile.

Travel
One word covers it all here: DON’T! With every bus, train and plane packed with Vietnamese heading home, prices spiral and travel time at least doubles from heavy traffic. The 16-seater air-con minibuses become 40 seaters and hard seat third class on the train is like playing sardines with livestock and end of the world provisions take up every inch of floor space. Even pre-booked flights generally work on the delayed system and fellow local travellers can quite often be first-time flyers, so expect the possibilities of thigh stroking, projectile vomiting, constant texting and even motorbike helmets worn during the flight.

Perhaps your best bet for onward travel during the Tet holidays.

Tet road rules
You really shouldn’t be attempting to hit the roads on your motorbike over the Tet holidays without at least five passengers, a handful of live ducks in carrier bags hanging from your handlebars and a four-foot Tet tree in a concrete pot balanced between your thighs if you want to blend in. For the rest of us, abide by the laws of the road, which I think means don’t go through a red light, wear a helmet and make sure your bike has a working horn (obviously), at least one wing mirror and working lights, or be prepared to hand over a fortune in on-the-spot fines.

It's okay, that's a lucky tree.

Accommodation
Booking ahead is the way to go here. Generally in big cities and tourist spots high on hotels you'll find booking sites still have last-minute deals and hotels don’t tend to close. In smaller destinations, especially ones that only have small family-run guesthouses out in the sticks, be prepared for some difficulties. As most of these places are not available to book online, you’d be wise to go through a local booking office before you arrive at your destination and get them to secure your room in advance.

Tours/sightseeing
Most tour companies run throughout the Tet holidays but be aware that most sights will be mobbed by local families picnicking. It’s a great time to take off for a daytrip into the smaller villages on a motorbike, when celebrations are in full flow and hospitality is at an all-time high. Just take a reliable bike.

Marble Mountain at Tet.

Customs/social etiquette
This is where the fun and confusion starts. On the first day of Tet it's customary to be lovely whatever is going on around you, as local belief is that your behaviour on these first few days of Tet will bring goodwill, prosperity and luck for the oncoming year. So even when you get a cab at five times the going rate you will be expected to turn that frown upside down.

Tet attire
It's customary for the Vietnamese to work through a whole new wardrobe over the Tet holidays, with splashes of high octane colour and questionable fashion logos ruling. Anything in the funeral colours of black or white are abandoned for lucky red and yellow. And if the Vietnamese news article I read about this year's luckiest Tet wear (the year of the snake) is right, brightly coloured snake print -- slinky and tightfitting to create snake-like silhouettes for the ladies and matching snakeprint ties for the gents -- will also be a good choice. If you're invited to someone's home during the Tet holiday, stick with the black and white ban for good karma to all.

Tet in Saigon.

Tet music
Happy New Year by Abba. You will hear this at least frequently enough to know all the words by the end of January. By Tet you will be self-medicating to stop the song from going round and round in your head even in the few minutes it is not being played.

Shopping
Almost every Vietnamese business will close for Tet (even if just for a day), as the business owner will go to the pagoda and seek advice from a fortune-telling monk on a lucky day and time to reopen a brand new (the same) shop where they will hold a ceremony for their ancestors at an altar and offer gifts to the gods on an elaborate table in the shop's entrance, while burning incense. If you enter a shop over Tet the protocol is to buy something, no matter how small, as if you don’t this brings very bad luck to the shop. Remember to smile as you buy that fabulous lacquered pig at three times the non-Tet price.

Hoi An... nobody does Tet better.

Best place for Tet celebrations
Hoi An! It’s a huge lantern festival of fun and frolics and one of the top destinations during the Tet holidays for the Vietnamese. It's crazy, fun and brilliantly confusing (if you don't like crowds though, forget it). Da Lat would be the next best, while cities Hanoi, Saigon and Da Nang are tops for parties; if you want an off the beaten path Tet travelling challenge, head for the provinces.

Tet treats. Try everything you may never get the opportunity again!

Food
There are simply too many Tet treats to mention. Markets close, restaurants work on limited menus or shut up shop altogether, but the real beauty of Tet is the street food: suddenly every square inch of pavement is crammed to overflowing with stalls and plastic stools rammed with raucous locals celebrating. If there ever was a time to mingle with the locals and go away with a warm feeling inside (that will of course be the rice wine), it's over Tet.

Chuc Mung Nam Moi!

Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Kanchanaburi, Phuket and ... Chanthaburi? This coastal province in southeastern Thailand isn't usually listed among the kingdom's premier destinations, but maybe it should be. With waterfalls, a coastline full of surprises, fabulous regional food and a dreamy old riverfront district influenced by the Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese and French, Chanthaburi offers a wealth of good stuff in one accessible package.

Chanthaburi town -- known as 'Chan' to locals -- is nestled along the Chanthaburi river some 20 kilometres from the Gulf of Thailand, a two- to four-hour's drive from Bangkok, Pattaya, Ko Samet, Ko Chang and either of two border crossings to Cambodia. Overshadowed by these better known destinations, Chan is often viewed as a convenient one-day stopover, but the province offers enough to keep you excited for a week. If we had that much time in the City of the Moon and surrounds, here's where we'd spend it.

Just a snackie.

Chanthaburi Old Town
Officially known as the Chanthabun Waterfront District, the old quarter's sleepy streets and alleyways meander alongside the river and are lined with attractive, if dilapidated old shophouses. The province fell under French control for 12 years following the 1893 Franco-Siamese War, and the French left their mark in the form of two-storey homes with photogenic French-colonial shutters and balconies. The architecture may be pleasing to the eye, but it's the mix of locals who bring the old town to life.

Even the rain can't take away the charm.

Thousands of Chinese and Vietnamese have made their homes in Chantaburi over the past few centuries, evidenced by a clutch of Chinese shrines and temples, and the Gothic-style Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception. The cathedral is Thailand's largest, and it continues to function under a predominantly Vietnamese-Catholic congregation.

Adding to Chan's historic allure, Siamese general-turned-king Taksin, himself half-Chinese, regrouped here after the fall of Ayutthaya to the Burmese in 1767 . He rallied thousands of men from Chanthaburi to join the army that ultimately repelled enemy forces once and for all. A memorial to him stands just north of the old quarter and is a sacred place for many Chinese-Thai residents.

Just yum.

The best way to soak up the town's quaint and artistic air is on a casual stroll with numerous stops to stuff yourself. Don't miss roasted pork shoulder with chaweng leaf curry at the 50-year old Chantorn Restaurant; fresh rambutan and durian (Thailand's best are grown here); the ubiquitous pad sen Chan buu, a sauteed rice noodle dish with fresh local crab; or durian, guava and Thai tea flavoured ice cream at 60 year-old Rocky Ice Cream Parlour.

Top it off with a strong coffee on a patio overlooking the river and the Moon City will have cast its spell. But be warned -- entranced travellers have been known to spend a bundle in Chanthaburi's trove of gem shops.

National Parks
A manageable motorbike or songthaew ride to the southeast of town takes you to one of Thailand's most popular national parks (at least among Thais): Namtok Phlio. The park was named after a waterfall that roars over sheer cliffs, but don't forget to purchase long string beans to feed the fish that burst from a crystal clear water stream here.

Plenty of moss at Namtok Phlio.

The park also features a moss-covered hilltop chedi built to memorialise a queen of King Rama V and a series of steep hiking trails that take the adventurous high above the falls on Khao Sabap mountain. On the way back to town, don't miss the dazzling Chinese temple Wat Mong Gorn Phupharam.

If wanting to delve deeper into the wild, head up to Khao Kitchakut National Park 30 kilometres north of town. Bigger, more beastly and remote than Namtok Phlio, Khao Kitchakut's highlight is a 13-tier waterfall that can be viewed in several stages along a challenging hiking trail that winds up Khao Phra Bat mountain.

This 1,000 metre peak is home to some 53 bird species and is the source of the Chanthaburi river. Locals believe the streams to possess cleansing powers, and if visiting on a weekend you might follow Thai pilgrims as they trek to a Buddha footprint and meditation cave on the cool and often misty mountaintop. If you're taken with the Buddhist pilgrimage thing, make a detour to Wat Khao Sukim.

Beaches and coastline
If Chanthaburi's beaches were comparable to the stretches of white sand and emerald water of nearby Ko Samet, Ko Chang or Ko Maak, the province would unquestionably be a marquee tourism hotspot. Its coast does boast expansive beaches as far as the eye can see, some of which are worthy of a nice long lounge, but generally the water is on the murky side. The beaches are still lovely by more down-to-earth standards; they're just nothing to write home about if you've been to the islands. Even so, the Chantaburi coast is one of the most rewarding seaside areas in Thailand to explore thanks to its many inlets, bays, peninsulas, viewpoints and fishing villages.

With its long stretch of golden sand, Chao Lao village is the province's only beach area developed for tourism to any notable degree, though it's still a laidback affair, perfect for those seeking a quiet beach holiday. While in Chao Lao, don't miss the outstanding twin attractions -- Khun Krabaen aquarium and mangrove trail. Both are free, and you might even spot an endangered dugong in one of the salty inland tributaries.

Wander the mangroves.

The best way to approach the Chan coast is to rent a motorbike or charter a songthaew and set off on a loosely planned adventure. Empty beaches and family-run bungalows at the tips of this or that peninsula are too numerous to name, so just sit back and let the sea breezes take you where they will. Practically every restaurant along the coast serves seafood fresh from the bay, but for a quirky dining experience, head to Farm Buu Nim in the unassuming coastal town of Khlung to the east.

Just chill out.

Perhaps Chanthaburi's relatively light tourism numbers are due to it lacking any one single all-star attraction that screams "if you miss it you'll never forgive yourself!" Yet it's the mosaic of culture, history, food, mountains, waterfalls and beaches that places Chanthaburi among our favourite Thai destinations. Wander through the old streets and temples, be dampened by the mist of a waterfall, lose yourself on an off-the-map peninsula and bite into the most pungent durian in Thailand. After all of that, if you still don't think Chanthaburi is as as great as we do, then hey, the islands are just two hours away.

Ko Pha Ngan is home to some of the most picturesque beaches in the world, with turquoise waves lapping on powder-white sand. With 32 beaches in total, some without proper roads to reach them, it's possible to find your own little piece of paradise not overrun with other travellers – you just need to know what you're looking for. We took a stab at this back in 2005, but the island has grown up quite a bit and here are our 2013 picks for Ko Pha Ngan's best beaches, starting from the northeast corner of the island, and continuing counter-clockwise.

Ideally, you'd have a chance to spend a few days on every one of this island's amazing beaches, but unless you are a well-to-do traveller with no other places to go, we're guessing that your time on Ko Pha Ngan will be limited. This guide should give you a decent selection of a handful of beaches that will suit you best but there are many more to discover...

Thong Nai Pan Noi: A romantic couple's escape

Working out on Thong Nai Pan Noi.

This posh beach is where you'll find many of Ko Pha Ngan's fanciest resorts. This is despite the fact that the road leading to the beach is akin to a 45-minute bumpy rollercoaster ride, being unpaved and covered in plentiful potholes. Still, once you see Thong Nai Pan Noi, you'll understand that it's worth it. The large beachfront has soft sand and clear water perfect for swimming. There's no coral here, so snorkelling is a pointless endeavour, but funky, upscale bars and restaurants, as well as their adjoining resorts, tend to be filled with young, well-to-do couples sipping mai tais and enjoying the romantic setting.

Bottle Beach: Isolated sunning

Bottle Beach.

The main allure of Bottle Beach is its inaccessibility. It's necessary to take a boat here, which typically costs about 800 baht in each direction; a single road here is so rough that even locals don't use it. There's a hiking trail from Haad Khom, but it takes about an hour and a half, and in the glaring tropical sun, that kind of exercise is not ideal. The lovely isolation from the rest of the island, however, makes the trouble of getting here worthwhile. Try it outside of high season, when fewer people are likely to have the same idea as you have.

Ao Chaloklum: Authentic Ko Pha Ngan

Chaloklum.

Still referred to as the island's fishing village, Chakloklum, located in Ko Pha Ngan's north, retains much of the island's original rustic charm. Colourful fishing boats rock back and forth in the turquoise waters close to shore. The water is excellent for swimming, since it gets deep fast. Plenty of restaurants back onto the beachfront, having bought their day's seafood fresh from fishermen returning with their daily bounty -- you must try the excellent seafood here. Adjacent Coconut Beach, or Haad Khom, is also beautiful, but tends to be far more populated, which we think detracts from its appeal.

Haad Salad: Fun for families

Haad Salad.

This family-oriented beach was once reputedly home to pirates who collected themselves in the bay of Haad Salad before they went searching for their next bounty. You're unlikely to discover buried treasure, but you will find some of the best sand on the island, as well as a great selection of restaurants and a few bars and massage stands. During the day, the beach is often fairly busy with children building sandcastles, couples tanning themselves, and people frolicking in the sea. Find out when the tide goes out, because when it's in, there's virtually no beach to walk on.

Ao Baan Tai: Party central

Baan Tai.

Though Haad Rin is probably Ko Pha Ngan's best-known party destination, Baan Tai has been gaining in popularity as a favoured place to stay for party animals of late. This is partly due to its fantastic location, conveniently located between the ferry pier in Thong Sala and Haad Rin. Events held here or within a few kilometres include Half Moon, Black Moon, Jungle Experience, Sramanora Waterfall party, and the newer Rhythm & Sands festival. Add to that the fact that it's packed with dirt-cheap hostels and low-cost beach bungalows and has a long strip of beachfront that's not often busy and provides a clear view of Ko Samui, and you've got yourself an ideal spot for college-aged fun-seekers.

Haad Leela: Pleasant pre-party relaxing

Haad Leela.

Haad Leela (also known as Haad Saikantang) is great for those who want to stay close to the party action on Haad Rin, but don't wish to subject themselves to Haad Rin's overpopulated beaches, which become less impressive with every full moon party. Leela beach, just a 10-minute walk away from Haad Rin's main beach, is truly a special spot. The bungalows won't be up to the standards of those with expensive taste – they're more backpacker-style than flashpacker – but if you can handle a simple, wooden bungalow, Leela beach could be perfect for you. Take a walk along the boardwalk on the left-hand side of the beach, if you're facing the ocean. There's a pretty veranda with a wooden table on it that would be the ideal picnic spot.

Haad Thian: Local party place

Haad Thian.

Just a short boatride away from Haad Rin, Haad Thian is home to a few of Ko Pha Ngan's favourite watering holes. Local expats flock to Guy's Bar, Eden, and The Sanctuary on the weekend to indulge in colourful buckets until the sun rises. These bars tend to attract an eccentric hippie-type crowd, but even if you're an upscale city traveller, you'll discover this beach to have a certain charm to it.

It is hard to believe that the village of Anlung Pi is just 25 kilometres from the five-star hotels of Siem Reap and the iconic lotus bud towers of Angkor Wat. Tourists don't come here, and they shouldn't. The village itself is unremarkable, but if you were to walk through the fields, just a few hundred yards from the neat, traditional wooden village houses, you would find yourself in the middle of a vast, stinking, rubbish dump. Sadly this rubbish dump is also home to an entire community.

Adults and children, many of them barefoot, scavenge daily among the rotting mountains of rubbish and clouds of toxic smoke for hidden treasures that will change their lives forever. But mostly they find just scraps of food -- not to be sniffed at -- and a steady supply of tin cans and plastic bottles that they sell on for recycling at 50 cents a kilo.

Home is where the heart is.

Those that live here seek shelter under scrappy tarpaulins and in makeshift houses, with nothing but rags at the “windows” to keep out the pervasive fumes of smouldering garbage. There is no clean drinking water, the “land” on which they live is unstable, and the risk of collapse, as well as spontaneous outbreaks of fire, is ever present.

Even children struggle to eke out an existence at the dump.

But there is a glimmer of hope. Volunteer Development Children's Association (VDCA), a Cambodian-run NGO, recently received a donation from two UK supporters with which they have bought a sizeable piece of land near the village. Following discussions with the families, plans have been drawn up to turn the land into a safe, clean and sustainable community. When the fundraising target is reached, the empty plot of land will be transformed into a 'village' with eight houses, a new well and water filters for safe drinking water, toilets and washing areas, and land for cultivation and livestock.

A hazardous way of life.

The community will work in conjunction with VDCA which already runs a free school in Siem Reap for children whose families cannot afford to send them to state school, and with the recently established free school in the village of Anlung Pi itself. While state education is officially free in Cambodia, many families cannot afford school uniforms, books, and the additional payments teachers charge for the private classes needed to pass state exams, so free schools play a vital role in underprivileged children's education.

Free education: VDCA already runs a school in the village.

VDCA is run by former Buddhist monk, Togh Main, whose parents live in the village of Anlong Pi. It was set up in 2004 and originally consisted of just two grass-roofed huts in Siem Reap. VDCA gained Cambodian NGO status in 2007 and now gives free education to around 1,000 underprivileged children across the two schools.

Founding father: Togh proudly shows off the new water pump at the village school.

Working together with villagers and the families from the rubbish dump, VDCA will provide immediate and much-needed relief for the community in the shape of safe homes away from the dangers of the dump, and work with them towards a more secure future where one day, none of them will have to risk their lives daily by working at the dump either.

If anyone would like to donate directly to the fund, you can do so securely online at VDCA's Virgin Money Giving web page.

The Malaysian city of Melaka has been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site for its exciting history, but we think it also deserves recognition for its amazing food. Over the 500 years since this port city was founded, people from China, India, the Middle East and Europe have travelled here to do business and many stayed, contributing their favourite recipes to Melaka's food culture. Few places can rival Melaka for diversity in local food, so between museum visits and antiques shopping plan to enjoy meals of noodles, curries, tandoori and these Melakan specialties.

Melaka is known as the home of Peranakan cuisine, a fusion of flavours and cooking techniques that evolved when Chinese merchants married Malaysian women. The Peranakans were the elite of their era and their dishes are known for complicated techniques and long lists of ingredients -- expect a generous use of ginger, candlenut, lemongrass, chili, laksa leaves and cincalok, a condiment made from tiny fermented shrimp. The signature dish ayam buah keluak may seem like a simple chicken stew, but the black keluak nuts that give it its rich flavour require days of preparation to become edible. Other must-trys are ikit tim (duck soup with herbs), udang lemak nenas (prawns cooked with pineapple curry) and kueh pie tee (crispy little dough cups stuffed with shredded veggies, egg and Chinese sausage). Unlike the Malays who abstain from pork for religious reasons, the Peranakans do amazing things with pork like melt-in-your-mouth babi pongteh (pork belly braised with salty soy bean paste).

kueh pie tee: Nonya throwdowns.

Since Peranakan cuisine is often far too labour intensive for even locals to cook at home, Melaka has a wide selection of Peranakan restaurants. For complete immersion into world of the Peranakans, make a reservation at Restoran Peranakan which is set in a restored mansion decorated with Peranakan antiques and art. If you just care about the food, try homey Nancy's Kitchen or Kochik Kitchen which are just as delicious and nearly half the price. Most Peranakan dishes are served in portions meant for sharing, so it's worth going in a group so you can order lots and sample everything.

Chicken rice balls. It is what it is.

For more fusion eats, take a short trip outside of the city to the Portuguese Village to try Eurasian cuisine. It's exactly what it sounds like -- east meets west -- and includes some delicious concoctions like baked fish, butter crab and spicy beef stew. Devil's curry (curry debal) is traditionally a Christmas dish among Melaka's Portuguese descendants, but it's on the menu every night at Restoran de Lisbon. As fishing survives as one of the main occupations here, at night you'll find stalls selling barbecued seafood.

Ayam buah keluak. ALso known as I'd like a serving right now please.

Melaka has also given its own twist to the hawker centre staples of chicken rice and satay. Rather than the usual bowl of rice, Melakan chicken rice shops serve poached chicken with a side of golfball-sized rice balls. They still taste like boring old rice (until you add the chilli sauce), but we suppose they're more fun to eat. Both of Melaka's best-known chicken rice ball restaurants can be found along Jonker Street -- tourists flock to Famosa Chicken Rice Ball or, for a cheaper version, join the locals queuing for lunch outside Hoe Kee Chicken Rice. Everyone knows that the best part of eating satay is the peanut sauce, so in Melaka they actually cook the skewers in a boiling vat of the stuff. Known as "satay celup", it makes a fun night out since you cook the skewers of meat, seafood and veggies right at your table. Try it at Capitol Satay where a crowd of hungry people can always be found waiting for them to open their doors at 17:00.

Gula Melaka: A sweet sweet.

We hope you've saved room for dessert, because Melaka has some signature sweet treats. You'll find the dessert chendol all over Malaysia but the Melakan version uses "gula melaka" (Melaka sugar) to make it extra sweet. This namesake product is made from the sap of palm trees boiled until it thickens and develops a burnt-caramel taste. Enjoy it in a bowl with shaved ice, coconut milk, green noodles and fruit at the Clocktower Chendol stall opposite Stadthuys for 2 ringgit or at Jonker 88 Dessert Café for 3 ringgit -- durian optional!

One Melakan tart please.

The centuries-long European influence in Melaka also means that residents have an appreciation for baked goods. Keep an eye out for small bakeries in the Chinatown area like LW Nyonya specialising in pineapple tarts -- bite-size pastries filled with sweetened pineapple puree. A box of Melaka pineapple tarts sells for 10-15 ringgit and makes a sweet souvenir, but we won't blame you if they get eaten up before your flight home.

Capitol Satay: 41 Lorong Bukit China, T: (06) 283 5508
Clocktower Chendol: Opposite Dutch Square
Famosa Chicken Rice Ball: 28/30 Jalan Hang Kasturi, T: (06) 286 0121
Hoe Kee Chicken Rice: 4/6/8 Jalan Hang Jebat, T: (06) 283 4751
Jonker 88 Dessert Cafe: 88 Jalan Hang Jebat, T: (19) 397 5665
Kocik Kitchen: 100 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lok, T: (12) 377 4732 / (12) 330 7918
LW Nyonya Pineapple Tart House: 41 Jalan Hang Kasturi, T: (06) 281 1626
Nancy's Kitchen: 7 Jalan Hang Lekir, T: T: (06) 283 6099
Restoran de Lisbon: Portuguese Village
Restoran Peranakan: 107 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, T: (06) 284 5001

Accommodation standards in Siem Reap have improved beyond recognition in the last few years, across nearly all budgets. The gateway to Angkor now has more than 300 hotels and guesthouses and the chances of a soft landing are high. Here, though, are a few of our favourites that won't break the bank.

Dream a dream

Starting at the top, the recently opened Navutu Dreams Hotel, Resort & Spa is set amid paddy just a 10-minute tuk tuk trip away from the centre of town. Designed by the Italian family behind the highly commended Navutu Stars resort in Fiji, and the much-loved Italian restaurant Il Forno, Navutu Dreams is a step into another world.

White Neo-Moroccan villas sit in a tropical, landscaped garden, with a Polynesian straw-roofed dining pavilion forming the centrepiece, flanked by two Egyptian blue swimming pools. The effect is stunning, even before you get to see the spacious rooms, which are exquisitely designed with a gorgeous Mexican cyan backdrop to offset the sculpted white walls and carefully selected pieces of regional crafts. Rooms start at $108 per night, so it could be worth a splurge for one night even if your budget wouldn't normally go that far. Alternatively, check out the spa, which combines Cambodian and Pacific know-how and ingredients in a cool, luxurious setting. Follow it up with a cocktail or dinner at the restaurant.

Navatu Dreams Hotel Resort & Spa
T:(063) 688 0607
http://www.navutudreams.com/
Check for discounted rates with Agoda.com

Go bananas

From the last boutique hotel to the first, which has undergone some changes to say the least. It's a bit of a muddle, but the Golden Banana was one hotel that is now four different hotels, all with the same name but owned by two separate people. Among them, the Golden Banana Superior Hotel is absolutely worth a look in the $28 to $55 range.

You'd be bananas not to consider it.

Only a five-minute walk from the buzzing town centre, the butter yellow two-storey building incorporates large, beautifully furnished rooms with all the bits you need plus a view from the balcony on to the long open-air swimming pool below. The Superior serves food, but just around the corner the Golden Banana Boutique Resort features the really lovely Red Lantern restaurant, a romantic evening spot that serves western and Cambodian food on a covered terrace overlooking the pool. Follow the magnificent Chinese red lanterns to find it.

Golden Banana Boutique Hotel & Golden Banana Boutique Resort
Phum Wat Damnak
T: (063) 766 655
http://goldenbanana.info/home/
Check for discounted rates with Agoda.com

A hotel with a heart

It has to be said that Soria Moria Boutique Hotel is possibly the best in town. Not necessarily for the size of their rooms, though on average they're reasonably big, nor for the quality of their decor which is good but not outstanding. Their location on the Wat Bo Road is excellent, but that's not it either. They have a bright, airy restaurant that has an excellent $1 tapas night on Wednesdays, but that's not what makes us smile every time we hear their name. Nor is it the full schedule of activities, whether it's movie nights or the "Oh My Buddha hand me another one of those outrageously cheap margaritas" nights. What makes Soria Moria stand head and shoulders over most hotels, anywhere, is the size of their hearts.

More than just a hotel.

Soria Moria was founded in 2007 as a boutique hotel with 38 rooms and from the very beginning, this Norwegian owned and run hotel was about making Cambodia a better place. The hotel has been associated with and active supporters of a number of reputable local NGOs since its inception, including the $1 tapas night, which is also a hospitality training night for disadvantaged youth. They have invested heavily in their staff training and support, with the real coup coming last year when 51% of the hotel's ownership was transferred to the staff. If you would like to do your bit to contribute to Cambodia's future, they have plenty of ideas for you to follow up on.

The rooms at the Soria Moria range from $40 to $65 per night, and we forgot to mention they also have a rooftop bar perfect for watching the sun sink down over the horizon.

Soria Moria Boutique Hotel
Wat Bo Road
T: (063) 964 768
http://thesoriamoria.com/
Check for discounted rates with Agoda.com

Elegant and tasteful

Just up the road from Soria Moria, and still within walking distance of town, Frangipani is a lovely one-year-old hotel. It's the creation of three enterprising Cambodians, an architect, a landscape gardener and a marketing whizz, whose specialties have come together in an elegant symbiosis. The two large, airy buildings house tastefully decorated rooms (from $40 per night), featuring lots of four-poster beds with gently fluttering canopies, silk throws, flowers and subtle contemporary motifs. A setting this lovely would cost significantly more pretty much anywhere else in the world.

Look out for the frangipani.

The pool at the back is a real prize, and faces east so is perfect for afternoon swims after a morning spent trampling around temples. Our only reservation here is the restaurant in the principal building, whose standards and ambiance seem rather at variance with the rest of the hotel.

Frangipani Villa Hotel
Wat Bo Road
T: (016) 581 045
http://www.frangipanivillahotel.com/
Check for discounted rates with Agoda.com

Build a future

Way over on the other side of town, there is another hotel with a heart. Actually, Sala Bai is not really a hotel but a hospitality training school that takes in 100 disadvantaged young Cambodians and gives them formal and practical training in the industry.

Part of the training includes hosting guests in the few rooms above the (amazing) restaurant, which are simply decorated, clean and very good value at $20 per night. At that price, you're doing more than securing comfy accommodation; you're building someone's ability to grasp their own future, which is worth so much more in the long run. On that note, it's worth remembering that sometimes the staff may struggle with their developing English skills especially at the beginning of the school year, and they may make the odd mistake. But I can't describe the happiness you'll take home with you knowing that you can play a part in helping them to help themselves build a future of their own making.

The restaurant downstairs, which is also part of the training school, is headed up by a very talented Cambodian chef who has worked at five-star hotels in the Middle East. The experience and creativity he brought back with him is a gustatory joy and the set menus, which change every two weeks must be checked out whether you're staying here or not.

Sala Bai
155, Phoum Tapoul
T: (063) 963 329
http://www.salabai.com/

A true rose

If you're into more homely fare, then Rosy's Guesthouse could be the place for you. The love child of a young English couple who met and fell head over heels in Siem Reap, Rosy's is a sort of home away from home for many.

Rosy and homely.

Like its owners, it is down to earth, straightforward, but thoughtful and also enormous fun on the monthly charity quiz nights. The bar area has a pool table, and two large flat-screen TVs for catching up on sports and the Wednesday movie nights. For the hungry, Rosy's beef and Guinness pies are the stuff of local legend. Travellers with children will be thrilled by the recently opened Kids Room downstairs, which is stocked with toys, soft flooring, a blackboard wall, books, and anything else the owners can get their hands on.

Rooms at Rosy's range from $8 for the dorms and $15 to $35 for the rooms.

Rosy Guest House
# 0074, Phum Slor Kram
T: (063) 965 059
http://rosyguesthouse.com/

Unique and creative

On a more esoteric front, in the north river area you'll find The 1961 hotel, a sort of accidental hotel that started out as somewhere for artists to hang out, that became a sort of artists' residence and then evolved into a hotel with art and all things creative at its heart. You never know what you might come across here, from poetry slams to creative writing workshops, art and photography exhibitions, and then there might be dance, meditation, music gigs, you name it. As they say themselves, The 1961 is not so much a hotel as a creative space which means that guests can choose to simply enjoy the unique atmosphere and creativity that bursts from every nook and cranny, or can participate themselves if their muse should so take them by the ear.

Rooms are clean and basic (from $40), but each one is uniquely decorated according to a theme associated with the 1960s. Indeed, they are called galleries; galleries in which you can also rest your head and take a shower. The themes reflect global politics – the Cold War and John F. Kennedy – as well as important Cambodian cultural icons of the time, such as renowned architect Vann Molyvann, the royal family or Cambodia's most famous pop singers Sinn Sisamouth and Srey Sothea.

The 1961
Osaphear Street
T: (063) 966 961
http://www.the1961.com/
Check for discounted rates with Agoda.com

Not your average hostel

Super-popular with backpackers, the Siem Reap Hostel is only a two-minute walk from the Old Market, and is really much more than just a hostel; it's one of the only places in town with an indoor pool too. And a pool table, and a regular yoga schedule, games nights, occasional gigs, Sunday barbecues and, you know what, it's impossible to keep up with their busy schedule unless you're actually staying there. The Siem Reap Hostel makes a virtue out of hiring energetic, creative management teams whose sole reason for living seems to be ensuring that their guests have as much fun as possible while they're there.

Not your average hostel.

Rooms are spotlessly clean, and for those who want to step out of the party light, there is comfy seating on the large balconies on the first and second floors where you can find some space to just chill out – subject to the traffic on the street below. Dorms start at $6 (low season), and rooms are $15 to $45.

The Siem Reap Hostel
7 Makara Street
T: (063) 964 660
http://www.thesiemreaphostel.com/

Forever praised

Locally owned Mandalay Inn is one of those places that people just can't seem to praise enough. Set in a large Cambodian style villa off the river road, the compact rooms are modest but scrupulously clean and the service is really among the friendliest and most helpful you'll find in town. They also have the only Burmese restaurant in Siem Reap.

Mandalay Inn
Psar Kroung Street
T: (063) 761 662
http://www.mandalayinn.com/
Check for discounted rates with Agoda.com

A great sundowner

Just a little bit further down the road from the Mandalay Inn, but still within walking distance of Pub Street and the Old Market area, the Cashew Nut Guesthouse is a real trooper of a place for many of the same reasons as Mandalay. The service and friendliness of the staff is wonderful.

The rooms are all spotless and excellent value, with prices starting at $14, and the tours they offer have been developed by a fellow who has spent many years leading groups around the region. And to crown it all, the roof. Yes, the roof. This is a fantastic spot for sun-downers with an open-air lounge area in which to chill, enjoy the sunset, and let the beer rinse out the dust and the worry.

Cashew Nut Guesthouse
T: (063) 765 015
http://www.thecashewnut.com/

Known for its university, floating market, and interesting old architecture, this deceivingly-small looking city of more than a million boasts vibrant youth culture, tasty South Vietnamese food, and interesting and interested locals eager to engage with foreigners.

Friday Can Tho is home to a range of quirky coffee shops. Check out Roma Coffee, located on Nguyen Viet Hong street. It's like walking into a Roman-themed whorehouse, albeit one filled with Vietnamese college-age kids on group dates instead of fallen women.

Else try Le Club 8 on Vo Thi San Street which from the outside looks like a cute white-board house. Inside, a blue-sky ceiling painted with clouds as well as fake window-boxes and flickering candles, give the place a pleasingly home-y ambiance.

Morning light at Can Tho.

Can Tho isn't far from Cambodia, and many people of Khmer extraction make their home here. Check out Can Tho's Khmer temples: the larger Munirangsyaram Pagoda on Hoa Binh street, and the small, newly renovated Quang Duc Pagoda on Mau Than Street. The monks at Quang Duc are happy to show tourists around -- this is what a new Khmer temple looks like with a local group of worshippers, a departure if you're only familiar with the crumbling antiquities of Angkor.

For dinner, try the excellent grilled-squid-and-shrimp stand near the Quang Duc Pagoda, featuring hefty portions of seafood, beef skewers, and something called "squid teeth."

Banh ramit in Can Tho.

Saturday Wake up painfully early to check out the Cai Rang floating market — it's suggested you be on the water no later than 06:30 to catch the best action. Sellers exchange pineapples, cabbages and other goods boat-to-boat, literally throwing items at one another across the water. Typical trips last two or three hours and there are other floating markets and back canals that can be added on to keep you busy till the early afternoon -- pack sunscreen if you're opting for a longer trip.

One pineapple please.

For lunch, try Nem Nuong Thanh Van (17 Hoa Binh, Ninh Kieu district), where you can tuck into Vietnamese spring rolls, or nem nuong, a dish composed of pork meatballs, rice paper wrappers, fresh herbs, and rice noodle "paddies". Think of them as do-it-yourself Vietnamese burritos. Your spring rolls will likely look like the work of a schizophrenic gibbon. But they'll taste good.

Do it yourself deliciousness.

To immerse yourself in Can Tho life, try strolling around Can Tho University (Ba Thang Hai, Xuan Khanh, Ninh Kieu district -- campus II), where students are eager to chat with foreigners. Grab a sugarcane juice at the student canteen and hang out -- you're likely to make new friends without trying.

If you're interested in a guided tour of Can Tho's culinary delights, Hotel Xoai offers food tours run by expatriate James Thomson. Ask at the front desk, or call (012) 9903 9604 to set something up — he charges $12. If a food tour isn't your thing, head to De Tham Street, which features a dizzying array of Vietnamese specialties.

A clam for you a clam for me.

Sunday If staying at the Hotel Xoai, walk out of the hotel and turn left — there's a woman who makes superb barbecue pork banh mi, Vietnam's iconic sandwich, a few feet down. Stop at any cafe for a cafe sua da and enjoy your sandwich there.

Kick off the day's sightseeing with a stop at Binh Thuy Ancient House (Bui Huu Nghia, Binh Thuy Ward, Binh Thuy district), built in the late 1800s in a cross of French and Vietnamese architectural styles. Inside the house you'll find a cluttered kaleidoscope of antiques and colour; try to meet the gracious great-granddaughter of the original builder, who shows visitors around.

Bright lights big city.

Com Chay Lac Hong at 46B Mau Than will set you up with an excellent vegetarian meal in a no-frills setting -- the fake meat dishes are almost impossible to discern from the real thing and even carnivores should experience this meat-free Vietnamese phenomenon once.

Just about every Vietnamese city has a Ho Chi Minh Museum (1 Hoa Binh, Tan An), but the student of Vietnamese kitsch will find such places a compelling look into this nation's recent history, including Can Tho's iteration. The hefty Can Tho Museum next door features over 5,000 historical objects, including a simulated tea house, the usual assortment of slightly creepy dioramas, and signage in English.

Mystery grilled throw-downs.

For dinner, head to Mau Than St, Hem 1, known for duck hot pot -- the owner of your hotel or any English speaking local can direct you here. If you wish to find it yourself, the alley can be entered off of Mau Than street, from an entrance directly across the street from Hotel Xoai. Walk straight until you reach the intersection with Hèm 1, then bear left. The duck hot pot here features a copious quantity of fresh duck meat and liver in a cauldron of soup, brought up to a volcanic heat by the table-top burner.

Can Tho's name is believed to derive from "c?m thi giang," which translates into "River of Poems." This vibrant city may not be Vietnam's most sublime location, but it's one of the best places in the South to get a glimpse at what modern Vietnamese life is like without the decorative trappings of mass tourism. Put your vacation in a slightly slower gear and check out what Can Tho has to offer: you'll likely be very glad you took the time.

Logistics Can Tho is the transport hub of the Mekong Delta and has bus connections to just about all the main Delta cities. Most travellers approach from Saigon or My Tho. Expect a trip from Saigon to take around three hours and cost around US$7.

It is also possible to fly to Can Tho with regular flights on Vietnam Airlines from Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, and Phu Quoc Island to Can Tho.

Can Tho has plenty of options for accommodation. While off the river, Hotel Xoai, a high-rise guesthouse run by a Vietnamese-German couple, is great value. Another budget option that is much closer to the river is Number One Hotel which has spotless and modern rooms from 160,000 VND and just a block back from there you'll find the long-running and ever-popular Hien Guesthouse with variable rooms with a backpacker vibe from US$5.

Plenty of places to stay.

If you'd prefer something a little fancier, the upstairs riverfront rooms at Tay Ho go for 350,000 VND and are a solid deal with a great people-watching terrace, while further along the river you'll find the more upmarket Kim Tho Hotel, where the upper floors boast some of the best views in town, with equally sky high rates (by Can Tho standards) at 950,000 and 1,200,000 VND.

Selected hotels and guesthouses in Can Tho
Hien Guesthouse 118/10 Phan Dinh Phung St, Can Tho. T: (071) 812 718, (091) 397 3320.
Hotel Xoai 93 Mau Than St, Can Tho. T: (090) 765 2927. http://hotelxoai.com/ - Check rates at Agoda.
Kim Tho Hotel 1A Ngo Gia Tu St, Can Tho. T: (710) 222 7979. http://kimtho.com/ - Check rates at Agoda.
Number One Hotel 1B Ngo Duc Ke St, Can Tho. T: (710) 382 9444.
Tay Ho Hotel 42 Hai Ba Trung St, Can Tho. T: (710) 382 2392. Check rates at Agoda.

Time was when the longest bus journey aimed at backpackers that we can recall was offered by Khao San guesthouses and was the Bangkok to Penang visa run. Though roads were good and border formalities straightforward on that route, it was long enough. But in more recent times, with an increase in visitors to regional destinations and an upgrading of roads across Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam, we've seen a proliferation of absurd bus routes on offer in backpacker hot spots across Southeast Asia, including Thailand's Pai and Ko Pha Ngan, Laos' Vang Vieng and Don Dhet, and Cambodia's Siem Reap.

We're not referring to mere long-distance bus rides, such as overnight journeys from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, the Vientiane to Pakse overnighter or the six-hour Siem Reap to Phnom Penh route, oh no, but to very, often very, very long-distance, multi-country routes, such as Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang, Pai to Vang Vieng, Don Dhet to Siem Reap and Vientiane to Hanoi (1,ooo kilometres in 12 hours by direct bus -- come on!)

Are they scams? Not necessarily always. Some ticket sellers are reluctantly honest about the routes' realities while other agents will happily lie through their teeth to whom they consider gullible punters. Sometimes a scam, sometimes not, but in our opinion always a folly!

Siem Reap to anywhere ...

These routes can be found right across mainland Southeast Asia -- well, except Burma where land crossings are still an issue but hey, look out for Siem Reap-Bagan soon! We're not about to cover them all but here are a few glaring and common examples of nonsensical itineraries.

Getting from Pai to Ko Tao on a long-distance ticket, for instance, doesn't involve crossing borders, but even so this route would involve a bus to Chiang Mai (140 kilometres, around five hours on winding roads, then change of bus for Bangkok (approximately 600 kilometres, minimum 10 hours), involving the inevitable waiting around time. Then it's another change of bus and at least six hours to cover the 400 kilometres to the boat pier in Chumphon. Here you'll wait for a boat to take the three-hour (or so) sea journey. So at a minimum you're looking at 27 hours across three buses and a boat. Are you really in that much of a hurry to get to Ko Tao?

Pai bus station. Just 27 short hours from Ko Tao.

We keep hearing of new "rapid, luxury/VIP" services on the increasingly popular Phnom Penh to Bangkok route, but a November 2012 journey resulted in the following nightmare. Only 12 hours direct in a "VIP bus" assured the agent, though to be fair the hotel staff, eager for the commission and not knowing much about Thailand's geography, were probably only repeating the bus company's fibs.

The journey actually took 16 hours, involving a change of bus in Siem Reap, then a change to minibus for the Poipet to Bangkok leg. Although the company (we think this one was Sorya but to be fair, most are probably as bad as each other) said the final destination was Khao San Road the driver upon finding himself in the suburbs of Bangkok with only one passenger left and not fancying Bangkok traffic jams, proceeded to dump said passenger at a tollway exit several kilometres from Khao San. Result: one lost, exhausted and foul-tempered passenger.

Destination Khao San? Hmmm, depends on mood of driver

Vang Vieng travel agents offer "direct" buses to Hue (24 hours and we've heard nightmare stories about this one), Bangkok (17 hours) or 4,000 Islands (20 hours), while $30 will get you a bus ticket from Don Dhet to Siem Reap. That's got to be at least a 16-hour journey with three different buses.

We're not giving prices or their comparisons here since we're not recommending any of these routes. Whether you pay $20 or $30 for a 24-hour bus ride is, to us, irrelevant. Do you have a map? Check the distances, do the maths, bear in mind local road conditions and envisage the worst at border crossings and bus change-over points. That lovely new coach on the poster can't possibly be taking you door to door -- that's not the way public transport in Southeast Asia works.

Hard sell!

Buses go from one transport hub to the next. All passengers from Don Dhet for example, will begin in the same coach until Stung Treng, where Banlung voyagers will have to be accommodated. Siem Reap and Phnom Penh passengers will then have to be redistributed in Kompong Cham and those going all the way to Sihanoukville will then have to redistributed again in Phnom Penh.

18 hour bus ride then you get to deal with the tuk-tuk drivers!

We are somewhat bewildered by the popularity of these routes. What is the attraction of driving halfway across Southeast Asia in one go with your eyes on a Kindle (will the battery last?) missing out on the destinations and scenery that we thought you might have come to see in the first place? Maybe it's part of that "zapping  mentality" -- wanting to zap between one perceived highlight and another, and skipping out the "dull" bits in between... You just can't "zap" by public buses.

Southeast Asian local bus services are often very good

So how about breaking up your journey by stopping off at some of those places the bus drives past? You may be in for some pleasant surprises and without doubt you'll get to see some less touristy parts of Southeast Asia. Instead of going Vang Vieng to Bangkok direct, how about a night or two in Nong Khai or Udon en route? Don Dhet to Phnom Penh might see you stop off at Kratie for example, while if you're travelling between Pai and Luang Prabang, surely you've got time for a night or two in Chiang Khong? Shorter hops also mean you can use local buses, which are often more fun anyway and certainly cheaper.

Take it easy -- you're on holiday!

Visitors to Singapore always speak of its impeccably clean streets and ultra-modern architecture, but few know the secret behind the city-state's flawless appearance: transient foreign workers. As the wealthiest country in the region, Singapore is able to 'import' people from neighbouring countries to do its dirty work for wages of a couple of dollars per hour.

It is estimated that there are nearly one million people living in Singapore who've travelled from countries like Bangladesh, Indonesia, Philippines, India, Burma and China to accept low-paying jobs as construction workers, street cleaners, window washers, dock workers and maids.

Though transient workers willingly come to Singapore to work, the conditions are often not what they expected. Many foreign workers toil for more than 12 hours per day without overtime pay and are considered lucky if they get one day of rest per week. Construction workers are forced to work under dangerous conditions and, if injured on the job, are shipped back home so employers can avoid their legal obligation to cover the medical bills.

Foreign workers are involved in many different occupations.

Domestic workers have it even worse. Since they usually live in the private households where they are employed, they are at their employer's beck and call 24 hours a day and only 12% report having at least one day off per week. There have also been reports of emotional and physical abuse against domestic workers –- who are almost always female -– and in some cases employers have beaten their 'maid' to death.

If transient workers do want to quit their job or take legal action against their employers they often cannot because they lack the language skills and formal education to navigate Singapore's system of work permits and paperwork.

Volunteer translators are often in need.

Thankfully, Transient Workers Count Too is there to help. Founded in 2003, TWC2 is a non-profit organisation dedicated to assisting low-wage migrant workers being exploited in Singapore. Operated entirely by volunteers, TWC2 can arrange access to social workers, lawyers and translators and has helped remove domestic workers from dangerous environments. All of these services are completely free.

TWC2's signature project is the Cuff Road Food Programme which offers free meals and a friendly ear to migrant workers. Employers bringing migrant workers to Singapore are required to provide them with room and board, but when there are disputes -– either over salary or working conditions -– the workers are often kicked out of their dorms and left destitute. This is not an issue you'll read about in a Singapore newspaper, but on average 200 workers show up for the free meals each day.

When injured some employers ship the worker home to avoid their obligations.

Donations to TWC2 can be made via their website and every little bit helps.

“A donation of $50 will provide a meal for 20 hungry workers at our soup kitchen or can buy five Transitlink cards for injured workers to take public transport to their medical appointments,” said TWC2 president Russell Heng. “If no such assistance is given, the men would walk whatever distance to the hospital or clinic.”

Out of the public eye, maids can be especially badly treated.

If you're in Singapore and have free time, TWC2 is looking for volunteers to assist at the soup kitchen and with fundraising, research, editorial and general administrative work. Also needed are people who speak Tamil, Bengali, Burmese or Mandarin to act as interpreters.

Heng invites anyone with a caring heart and free time to get involved: "If you want to know more about volunteering with TWC2, please visit our website at http://twc2.org.sg or come to Heartbeat, our monthly volunteer orientation programme."

All photos courtesy TWC2.

It's been called 'Bangkok's Brooklyn' -- an area west of the Chao Phraya River where artsy youth hang loose with grannies and grampas in century-old houses. Unlike swiftly transforming central Bangkok, most of the neighbourhoods perched along Thonburi's canals and alleyways haven't changed much over the past century. Foreign tourists are still a novelty, but those willing to stray from Bangkok's comfort zones are rightly rewarded.

Although it's not known exactly where the name came from (some say it derives from Bang Ko, or 'village of plums'), the original 'Bangkok" village was situated in what's now the Bangkok Yai and Bangkok Noi parts of Thonburi, making these the city's first areas to be settled. In those days, the Chao Phraya River flowed in a horseshoe shaped path to the west before cutting north towards Ayutthaya.

Heading into a typical Thonburi neighbourhood.

In the 1500s, a south-to-north running canal was dug to shorten the journey by boat from the Gulf of Thailand up to Ayutthaya. Over time, the strength of the current overtook this canal, effectively altering the Chao Phraya's path. The river's original horseshoe is now known as Bangkok Noi and Bangkok Yai khlongs, or canals. Temples and villages along these watery avenues, many of which still stand today, continued to serve as 'Bangkok" for another 200 years. Only when King Narai ordered the Vichaiprasit Fort to be built along the Chao Phraya's western bank in 1665 did the area become known as Thonburi, or 'Fortified City'. Parts of the old fort still stand today.

Bangkok Yai Canal -- ancestor of the Chao Phraya.

After the fall of Ayutthaya in 1767, the warrior-turned-king Taksin established his new palace and capital close to Vichaiprasit Fort, and for a brief stint Thonburi served as the capital of the Siamese Empire. Though the grounds of his palace and the fort are now home to Thai naval headquarters, a monument to Taksin stands imposingly today at Wongwian Yai roundabout in the heart of Thonburi. One of Bangkok's busiest bridges, Saphan Taksin, was also named after the former king (not a certain former prime minister in exile).

Wat Arun became Taksin's royal palace, and today its soaring ceramic spires remain Thonburi's only large-scale tourist attraction. It's the only slice of Thonburi ever seen by most visitors to Bangkok, but some great food, a unique coffee shop/art studio and the west side's laid back atmosphere can all be experienced in the neighbourhood behind Wat Arun.

Chillin' behind Wat Arun.

A half kilometre south from Wat Arun brings you to Wat Kalayanamit, a bustling, ornate temple with considerable influence from the many Chinese immigrants who settled here. A short walk further south leads you past Ton Son Mosque -- one of the city's oldest -- and then on to Santa Cruz Church, a relic of Thailand's first European settlers. While at Santa Cruz, don't miss a distinctive Portuguese-Chinese-Thai snack that reflects the area's distinct cultural makeup.

Hundreds of years ago, Islam, Christianity and Buddhism (not to mention Taoism, Confuciunism and to some degree, Hinduism) were all practised in this single square kilometre of Thonburi. Apart from a few tourists, tuk tuks and modern buildings, little has changed today. If temples are your thing, Thonburi has plenty more, and most are historic but rarely visited by foreigners. Wat Pak Nam and Wat Kampaeng are two very different examples, each particularly special in its own way.

Friendly khao thom vendor in Wang Lang Market.

If you have the time to explore deeper into Thonburi, a good way to start is to take the Chao Phraya express boat to Wang Lang Market, one of the finest places in Bangkok to sample street food. While here, you might also go vintage clothes shopping, or head due west to pungent and colourful Bangkok Noi and Phran Nok wet markets.

If you're free on a Saturday or Sunday, make your way to Khlong Lat Mayom or Taling Chan floating markets.

On any day, head west and/or south from Wang Lang Market to check out a range of out-of-the-way cultural sites. Within striking distance is the Royal Barges Museum, worth a passing glance en route to sampling adorable Thai sweets at Baan Luk Chup. Cross back over Bangkok Noi Canal and you're not far from the bronze-smiths of Baan Bu. After watching traditional bronze bowls torched and polished by hand, stop by Bangkok Noi Museum to learn about Thonburi's past.

Boiling the bael fruit at Soi Mathum.

Further west, get your creative juices flowing at Khlong Bang Luang artist village, so called due to it sitting along a stretch of Bangkok Yai canal that was once home to nobles (khlong bang luang translates literally to 'royal village canal'). Enjoy a traditional Thai shadow puppet performance, paint a mask or kick back with a coffee in a 100+ year-old teak wood house, and taste some fabulous noodles -- all in an 'art collective" neighbourhood that manages to capture both Thonburi's funky and traditional sides.

Just rowing along...

You might finish up with an evening at 1001 Nights Gallery to get a feel for Bangkok's underground poetry scene. For dinner, an excellent northern Vietnamese restaurant is nearby, or you could head to Talaat Phlu to get your fill of street food, including some of the city's best (and stinkiest) sticky rice with durian. If that's not enough to satisfy your inner foodie, Khlong San should do the trick.

Keep in mind that even if you're armed with a GPS and all of the directions provided in the posts linked to here, the best way to approach Thonburi is to allow plenty of time to wander and see how the locals live. Although a few main roads are quite busy, traffic is generally not as heavy and Thonburi offers a bit more breathing room than in central Bangkok, though tuk tuks and taxis are readily available if you need them.

A handful of companies offer walking and boat tours of Thonburi, but if the Portuguese could find their way around almost 500 years ago, what's stopping you today?

The answer to the question of where you should stay on Thailand's Ko Samui for a holiday would depend entirely on what you are looking for from a stay on the island. Do you want to be where the party is? Would you prefer a little peace and quiet and a taste of the old Samui? Here we give you a few pointers on what to expect from the different areas, so you can make an informed choice of where to head.

Chaweng Beach

Chaweng, on Samui’s east coast, is the island’s busiest beach by far. The entire length (it’s also the longest beach) is lined with resorts, restaurants and bars, and here you’ll find the most vendors and jetski operators too. If it’s a party you’re after, Chaweng is the beach for you. If you’re looking for tranquility, it’s hard to escape the party when staying here, unless you’re at either far end of the beach. The northern part is quieter, as is Chaweng Noi at its southern end. There’s not much in the way of budget accommodation along Chaweng, at least directly on the beach. If you plan on partying only a few nights of your stay, you’d be better off staying out of Chaweng, but within easy driving distance, either yourself, or by taxi.

Chaweng: yes, it's popular.

Choeng Mon Beach

Choeng Mon is located in the northeastern corner of the island, about a 10-minute drive to busy Chaweng. The beach itself is beautiful, and quite protected, with rocky outcrops on both sides. It’s far from isolated, and you’ll find several bars, restaurants, beach resorts and vendors, but on a much smaller scale than Chaweng. Although songthaews do travel this route, they are not quite as regular as along the 4169 route (Samui's main ring road). Choeng Mon is a good option if you don’t want to be isolated, but don’t want to be surrounded by drunken partygoers all the time.  You’ll still find a few budget options along this stretch, as well as in the smaller surrounding bays of Plai Laem, Thongson Bay and Samrong Bay.

Thongson Bay near Choeng Mon beach is quiet and private.

Bang Rak/Big Buddha Beach

Bang Rak is on the north coast between Fisherman’s Village and Big Buddha -- it’s also sometimes called Big Buddha Beach. Sunsets are great from here and transportation is relatively easy. It’s about a 15-minute drive to Chaweng (taking the back route via Choeng Mon) and about the same distance to the main Tesco Lotus shopping centre. The beach itself is not the best, but more than adequate for a swim, and several low budget options are on offer along here, even on the beach. The beaches near Choeng Mon are a five- to 10-minute drive away on scooter. There are plenty of cheap roadside restaurants and vendors, particularly near the Big Buddha fresh market.

Bophut and Fisherman's Village

Fisherman’s Village is in the heart of Bophut, with Bang Rak to the east and Mae Nam to the west. It comes alive on Friday nights, when it hosts a walking street market. There’s a good beach, especially the western part, and the village has a cosmopolitan feel as many expats have opened quaint bars, restaurants and shops. A few high-end restaurants are there for a splash out, but not all are pricey and you can still find a few flashpacker places to stay here. If you’re looking for backpacker spots, walk the beach a little further west to Bophut, outside of Fisherman’s Village, and you’ll find a few places that are still within walking distance to Fisherman’s Village. Transport is easy from here, as many songthaews pass this way.

Bophut -- a perfect beach. Away from the crowds, but not isolated.

Mae Nam Beach

Mae Nam, along the north coast, with Bophut to the east and Bang Po to the west, probably has the largest concentration of backpacker spots but you'll find a few upmarket establishments too. The beach is long, good for swimming in most parts and you won’t find too many vendors. This beach doesn’t get the credit it deserves for some reason, and you’ll do well finding a place to lay your head here for a while. It’s a fair drive to busy Chaweng however, about 25-30 minutes.

Bang Po/Ban Tai Beach

Bang Po to the west of Mae Nam has improved over the last year, with several characterful beach bars opening. It's quite a drive from all the activity, but if it’s quiet you’re after, this is a good bet.

Nathon

Nathon is Samui’s capital, and is located along the west coast. It doesn’t have much to offer in the way of accommodation, but Lipa Noi to its south is a better option. This side of the island is far from all the happening spots however, and there really wouldn’t be any reason to stay in Nathon, other than to take an early ferry.

The south coast

Along the southwest coast and east coast, including Taling Ngam and Laem Set, is where you’ll find the Samui of yesteryear. There’s little in the way of nightlife, other than a few local bars, or the bars at the few high-end resorts. One would think that it should be cheaper down here, but it doesn’t seem to be the case. If you have your own transport, and are happy to drive far for a night out, then you may enjoy this area, even if only for a few nights. The area is quaint, and you’ll see islanders going about their daily business, sorting coconuts, fishing, and leading a more chilled life than those along the busier coast.

Lamai Beach

Lamai along the east coast is sometimes called Chaweng’s ugly sister. It pretty much has everything Chaweng has to offer, but on a smaller scale, and slightly cheaper. There are many backpacker spots along here, but also a lot of seedy bars too. You’d do well to stay in the small bays just north of Lamai, Coral Cove and Crystal Bay. These two small bays offer Samui’s best snorkelling, and being protected, they are great swimming beaches – but mind the sharp coral. It’s only a short drive to Chaweng should you want a night out on the town.

Just what you'd expect from a tropical island. Coral Cove, just between Chaweng and Lamai.

That rounds up Samui’s main areas. So which is ideal? A personal choice would be quieter beaches, not completely isolated, but close to the happening areas – Choeng Mon in the northeast, and Coral Cove and Crystal Bay between Chaweng and Lamai, or Fisherman’s Village for a cosmopolitan vibe... But the choice is yours.

The only station west of the main interchange station at Siam, National Stadium is number W1 on the Silom line. A stone's throw from Siam Square, National Stadium is useful for accessing -- you guessed it -- the National Stadium sports complex along with a handful of hotels and some notable sights along Rama I Road. This is also the closest you can get by sky train to Khao San Road and the rest of Banglamphu, although it's still a four kilometre walk or 60 to 120 baht taxi ride depending on traffic.

Exit 4 to the east of the station takes you to one of this area's chief attractions -- MBK shopping mall -- which is one of the best places in Bangkok to pick up cheap souvenirs, trendy clothes and electronics. MBK is particularly noteworthy for its entire floor of mobile phone vendors who will sell you a phone and SIM card in one convenient stop on the 4th floor. MBK is accessible through two sky-walks; the closer one to the station takes you into Tokyu department store, but the one we prefer thanks to it being easier to find from within the mall is a little further east.

Continue east past exit 3 along the main sky-walk and you'll find another sky-walk offshoot (on the left if walking away from the station) to the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre. Beyond that are the formidable malls and shopping plazas of Siam Square and the Siam Square BTS station itself.

Exit 2 takes you to the south side of Rama I Road, where you'll find the stadiums, tracks, courts, fitness centre and swimming pool of the sprawling National Stadium complex. The Tourism Authority of Thailand's (TAT) headquarters are also just a short walk west from exit 2 directly on Rama I Road just before the largest stadium. You'll want to come here to file a complaint about a Thailand tour company but there isn't much in the way of helpful general info.

Exit 1 takes you straight to the hip budget digs of Lub d Bangkok on the north side of Rama I. Just west of that is Soi Kasemsan 2, which is home to Jim Thompson's House. A Holiday Inn Express and the flashy Siam@Siam Hotel and its rooftop restaurant/bar are just west of that on Rama I.

Continue west on the north side of Rama I and you'll pass a handful of street restaurants before hitting a Tesco Lotus supermarket. Rama I then ends beneath an expressway overpass, but if you continue west on Bamrung Muang Road you'll hit the cheap clothing stalls of Bo Be Market after another kilometre. A half kilometre further and you'll enter an ancient temple supplies neighbourhood that's home to crumbling but historic Sino-Portuguese architecture and Baan Bat monks' bowl village. Just north of that is Wat Saket and the Golden Mount and just west is Wat Suthat and the Giant Swing, although at that point you would be a lot closer to Democracy Monument and Khao San than the BTS station.

To get back in the vicinity of Siam Square from here, you could hop on a khlong boat ferry at the western end of Bamrung Muang.

In Bangkok, contemporary galleries and hard-to-define art spaces open regularly, taking their places among centuries-old temple mosaics and crafts villages. Here's a taste of what's on the Bangkok art menu of today.

Some visitors may want to pass on the state-run museums and head straight for the funkier stuff, but Bangkok's National Gallery is a fine place to start your exploration. A visit to the National Museum is also a must if it's traditional Asian art and antiques you seek, but the galleries off Charoen Krung Road can be equally rewarding. Of course, intricate and ancient Buddhist art adorns the walls of countless Buddhist temples, two exceptional examples being the wiharn of Wat Suthat and the ordination hall of Wat Pho. A spectacular historical-spiritual-cultural melange in itself, Erawan Museum is also worth the trip.

A peek inside 50 Years Gallery off Charoen Krung Road.

Though many traditional Thai crafts have given way to modern factory methods, a handful of genuine craft villages persist. The alms bowl makers of Baan Bat, bronze-smiths of Baan Bu and flute makers of Baan Lao are each fine examples that much of Bangkok's traditional artistic mystique endures down out-of-the-way alleyways that have hosted craftspeople for generations.

Speaking of mystique, early to mid 20th century CIA agent-turned-silk-tycoon Jim Thompson was an avid Asian art collector, and a visit to his house-turned-museum and the neighbouring art centre deserve a spot on a Bangkok arts itinerary, even if they're usually filled with tourists. For something more off-the-beaten-track, visit descendents of the Muslim silk weavers who supplied Thompson as they keep the hand-woven silk trade alive at Baan Krua.

Crafting bronze bowls the old fashioned way at Baan Bu.

Also in the spirit of traditional Thai arts, the Khlong Bang Luang artist village on a historic Thonburi canal is the perfect place to get the creative juices flowing. Paint a mask, watch a traditional Thai shadow puppet performance and browse intimate galleries and studios in this laid back 'art collective' community. Try a course at Baan Chang Thai if wanting to learn how to whip up Thai-style painted murals, and don't worry, if the work is too tedious you can vent your frustrations on a kickboxing bag (Baan Chang Thai doubles as a Muay Thai school).

Dancing with Sita (of the Ramayana) at Khlong Bang Luang.

Moving on to the more contemporary side of the city's art scene, the newish Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC) and Thailand Creative & Design Centre (TCDC) fall somewhere between "studio", "museum" and "gallery". TCDC hosts exhibitions that tend to emphasize traditional culture, Thai and others, but with a modern art sensibility. Set in a breathtaking building surrounded by the Siam Square shopping malls, BACC is home to tiny galleries and studio space -- it's a fantastic place to soak up Bangkok's modern creative air while perhaps choosing an inexpensive, one-of-a-kind piece direct from the artist, before they get discovered.

Brought to fruition by an energetic community of young artists who often display their work in galleries at Chatuchak Market, the similarly undefinable V64 Studio to the north of the city is another studio/gallery space worth checking out. If TCDC, BACC and V64 are a little too free-flowing for your tastes, Bangkok offers a wide selection of more 'controlled' contemporary art galleries. Some are spacious and slick while others are little more than a handful of framed pieces in a cafe -- but all will strike a chord with one individual or another.

Kathmandu Gallery -- good things come in small packages.

A year or so back we spotlighted 10 contemporary Bangkok art galleries worth a look-see, and indeed, they're all still worth checking out, but several others warrant a good perusing as well. Gallery N is devoted to contemporary Thai art while Toot Yung's exhibitions often instigate a compelling (or disturbing for some) dialogue on Thai social issues.

Soulflower spotlights contemporary Indian work and Thavibu is dedicated specifically to Southeast Asian artists. Warp54 displays the Asian inspired work of a Belgian painter and Koi, La Lanta, Neilson Hays and 100 Tonson all feature a diverse mix of contemporary artists from around the world. If you feel like giggling rather than interpreting, stop by the BatCat Museum for a journey through vintage toy and comic book land.

Small galleries open often and we couldn't possibly mention them all. To keep a finger on the city's creative pulse, tune into the Bangkok Art Map and Art Bangkok websites. The former works like a monthly newsletter that has an eye for the underground visual arts scene while the latter regularly announces events from throughout Bangkok's visual and performing arts landscape. Much of Art Bangkok is written only in Thai but it's worth finding a translator as the site has a wealth of info.

Fresh work by Christian Develter at Warp54.

Now that a full day (or two weeks?) of museum and gallery hopping are behind you, what does an art lover do at night in Bangkok? The city offers no shortage of performing arts options, including Thai shadow puppet shows at Joe Louis Theater, khon masked theatrics at Sala Chalermkrung, the elaborate (and expensive) mixed performing arts spectacle at Siam Niramit, the always thrilling lady boy extravaganza at Calypso Cabaret or an evening of jazz at Brown Sugar. For something more off-the-beaten-track, you might get a taste of Bangkok's underground poetry scene at 1001 Nights, kick back for a night of Thai-style blues at Adhere the 13th or Saxophone, or mix it up with the city's artsy twenty-something crowd at Talad Rotfai and/or one of many hipster bars.

Indeed, the Bangkok 0f 2013 is swiftly shedding a reputation defined by go-go bars and maddening traffic and becoming a genuine centre for the arts in Asia.

The Samui Prison Project (SPP) was set up by local legal firm, PKN Legal & Business Consultancy, to work with groups raising money to help prisoners in the Women’s Unit at the Ko Samui District Prison. The aim is to assist the prison in its own efforts to provide rehabilitation for female offenders through education, training and community support.

The women’s unit of the prison houses only short-term prisoners; those with long sentences are sent to prisons on the mainland. But some 30 to 40 percent of the inmates here are only on remand and are awaiting trial -- they've yet to be found guilty of anything. As many are poor, they cannot always afford a lawyer; among the women are some who are pregnant or have young babies. The unit at any given time houses around 150 to 170 female prisoners, with cells around five by five metres holding 25 women each. A single toilet in each cell is partially hidden by a low wall, offering the only privacy. The prison, although cramped, is kept exceptionally clean by the women under the command of the prison guards.

How can we order?

The project's latest accomplishment, working with the Sisters of Samui, has been creating a mother and baby unit to provide a safe and clean environment for prisoners who are mothers, to be with their children while in prison. The unit is a dedicated area where new mothers can sleep with and feed their infants separate to the other inmates. There was a clear need for this separate cell as it was difficult to get babies to sleep or feed in peace. (Once a child reaches their first birthday, they must be relocated to live with other family members outside the jail.)

Recently, two new pregnant women arrived at the prison, and so SPP purchased a roll-away bed and screen so that when the nurse arrives to do prenatal checks, they don't need to do so on floor mats and within view of others.

Much appreciated. Thank you.

Former prison commander Arcom Meeryhan has helped give direction to SPP, and he has pushed to see prisoners taught skills that will help them earn an income on their release, such as in massage and baking; at the end of 2012, a new director of the prison, Somphop Rujjanavet, was appointed and he's keen to continue improving opportunities for the prisoners.

The island's Rotary Club meanwhile is raising funds to build a classroom to be used by volunteers who will offer their time to teach the women prisoners English – they’re always looking for volunteers to teach English, so if you've got the time, this is a big way you could help while visiting the island. SPP hopes that the space will also be used to teach other classes, such as in computer skills and women’s health.

One of the groups working in conjunction with the project is Sisters from Another Mother, a group of mothers from Australia, Emma Stroud, Stacey Townsend, Sonjja O’Brien Finigan and Stephanie Stone. Through organising garage sales they've raised significant funds used to buy items for the previous commander’s bakery programme, including a commercial-sized refrigerator, oven and food mixer.

Sisters From Another Mother meeting with the prison's former commander.

If you are able to donate your time while on a holiday in Ko Samui or give some money you can contact SPP via Michelle Elliot, who manages the project’s funds from PKN Legal & Business Consultancy.

Donations can either be made via PayPal, or directly into the project’s bank account as follows:

Michelle Elliott
PayPal address: michelle@samui-business-lawyer.com
T: (089) 591 2631
Bank of Ayudhya PCL - Bophut Sub-Branch, Ko Samui
Bank Account:  PKN Legal and Business Consultancy Co. Ltd (Samui Prison Project Account)
A/C No: 535-1-05626-9
Swift Code: AYUDTHBK

* All photos provided courtesy PKN Legal & Business Consultancy 

Luang Prabang has a reputation as an upmarket town catering towards package tours and older folk willing to spend a bit more on their accommodation than the typical backpacker -- and indeed, the World Heritage-listed town has some absolutely world class accommodation, but it's all but useless unless you've got cash. For those with less money though, some decent options are available, if you know where to look.

Those travelling alone are probably going to want to try and find a dorm room such as those on offer at Spicy Laos, where a bed will cost about 30,000 kip per night. For those travelling in pairs (and up), there are great guesthouses with attached private hot water bathrooms topping out at around the 100,000 kip mark. After reviewing these hotels recently, the following are our top budget accommodation picks for Luang Prabang, 2013.

Not a guesthouse.

Somjith Guesthouse
Somjith is a great guesthouse tucked in the alleyways behind Joma Bakery. The buildings are constructed with lots of wood which gives a great feel when walking inside the rooms. The rooms come with varying facilities depending on which actual room you choose but include air-con, fan, hot water bathrooms and cable TV. Prices do fluctuate dramatically throughout the year according to demand, but in the quieter months you can really snag a bargain here. It's a lovely place with a lovely vibe at a price that is hard to beat. You're likely to get a better price on a room by just rolling up and negotiating on the spot rather than booking. 27/2 Ban Hoa Xieng, Luang Prabang
T: (071) 252 756; (020) 7777 4883
Somjithg_h@gmail.com
Share/private bathroom: 70,000 / 100,000 kip
Read our full review of Somjith Guesthouse here.

Somjith Guesthouse -- try and get a corner room with air-con.

Jaliya Guesthouse
Jaliya is a bit of a dark horse, to be honest, primarily due to its out of the way location. It's a 10-minute walk from the guesthouse to the riverfront and well away from where most buses and tuk tuks will drop you off, so people coming here are generally coming because of a recommendation. And we recommend it! A variety of rooms are on offer throughout the property, but our favourites are the ones tucked out the back surrounding the lovely garden. You'll often see people out here drinking a Beerlao, playing cards and relaxing under the shade of a tree. The rooms are simple with attached bathrooms, a few sticks of furniture and typically rock-hard Lao beds. But this place is something a little different for Luang Prabang and definitely worth checking out, particularly if you want a cheap air-con room.
Phamahapasaman Rd, Ban Viengxay, Luang Prabang
T: (071) 252 154; (020) 587 1315
Fan/air-con: 70,000 / 120,000 kip
Check our full review of Jaliya Guesthouse here.

Jaliya Guesthouse -- front building facing the street or the one with the garden -- your choice.

Namsok Guesthouse 3
As with all places in Luang Prabang, you get absolutely stung here in the high season. We stayed here twice recently with a two-month gap between stays. The price was double the second time due to peak season being in full swing. The rooms here are all slightly different in configuration, with one room even coming with a cable TV while others don't. It costs hardly anything extra for air-con here and it's certainly worth the slight extra expense during the hotter months. Some of the bathrooms are old and slightly weird with big concrete bath tubs while others are perfectly clean and modern. Given the different styles, you certainly need to check out a couple before settling on one. But when you do, you'll be happy in the knowledge that you'll be staying in one of the best value budget options in Luang Prabang. Free WiFi is included, but you'll want to check to see if it works in your room first. It's located in the heart of the old town, too, near the Mekong.
Sisavangthana Road, Luang Prabang
T: (071) 254 426, (020) 9999 0901
Non-air-con/air-con: 60,000 / 80,000 kip (double in high season)
Check our full review of Namsok Guesthouse 3 here.

Nam Sok Guesthouse 3 -- extremely variable prices, but usually great value.

These are not the cheapest rooms in town, but they are some of the best value in the budget category and most backpackers will be happy to stay in one of these top picks. If you've stayed in a great value budget guesthouse in Luang Prabang, let us know in the comments and we'll check it out when we're next in town.

Situated on a hill rising dramatically at the intersection of two rivers, Luang Prabang has for centuries enchanted those who arrive by boat – still probably one of the best ways to first see the former royal capital of Laos. This town dominated by wats of unspeakable beauty is somnambulent, peaceful and languid, masking a fascinating history of conquest and recapture, and only hinting at an intricate culture and complex traditions. And at designated times of year, the town springs to a life that is unique.

Pi Mai, or New Year, occurs in mid-April and is the most elaborate and vibrant of the festivals dotting the Lao calendar year. It marks the beginning of the new agricultural year, with rain expected any day, and as if throwing back a blanket, the town wakes up and a time-honoured drama unfolds to seduce all who are lucky enough to be there. Extending for three days, the festival begins on the last day of the old year, and ends on the first day of the new. Between these days is a 'neutral' day, where the Lao reputedly don't age.

The kids of Pi Mai Lao. Class of 1999

On the first day of rituals, we awake with the sun. Already the street below is milling with people. There's a palpable expectant feel in the air, and we follow the crowds to what's known as talaat nat, where all the necessary festival items ranging from candles to live animals are for sale. Pairs of birds in tiny pink straw cages lined up neatly on mats chirp incessantly alongside tiny fish in buckets being sloshed into small plastic bags and restless turtles and frogs stretching against protective nets: the liberators of these animals will gain merit.

Don't forget your brollie.

Traditional Lao musical instruments are also for sale, along with basketware, obscure noise-making implements, helium balloons, sweets, soups and coconut ice cream. Streams of coloured paper hand-painted with the signs of the Lao zodiac and mounted onto slim sticks are carried along by the crowd, fluttering in the slight breeze. Gambling is popular: it's hard to work out how the odds work on the myriad of games. Throwing a tennis ball, aiming a dart, flicking a slingshot or spinning a fish can variously win you cigarettes, fish sauce, washing detergent, or, if you're unlucky, a lolly for trying.

We stop at one of the wats along the road, and watch an older man show novices how to asperse, or wash, the temple's Buddhas. This is one of the most serious rites of the new year, representing purity and life, as well as the renewal the rains will bring.

Forget about staying dry.

By midday boats are streaming across to the other side of the Mekong. We are drenched by the time we reach our boat: people line up with buckets of water or hoses outside their houses, dousing any passers-by with a good-humoured litre or two. Traditionally, this was also a symbolic rite of purification, which developed into something more fun where women would chase men to soak them. According to an 1887 description of the rite, women also pursued men with mud, oil and soot. Monks, nobles and princes were not spared, the princes apparently wearing a minimum of clothing to avoid damage to their royal best. Nowadays everyone joins in the fun.

Now that is a sand castle.

On the other side of the Mekong, pa that sai, stupas made of sand, are being constructed along the bank. It's certainly an art: sand, covered with water – one genius fills a plastic bag with holes and sprinkles this over his group's – are built higher and higher, surrounded by small balls of mud, sprinkled with flour into which the Buddhist year is inscribed, and finally decorated with incense and candles. Each grain of sand is said to wash away a single sin of the builder. A prayer and family snaps follow upon completion, and a plunge into the Mekong to cool off may as well take place: if you don't wet yourself, someone else is bound to.

At about four o'clock, in what feels like a finale, a Lao Aviation plane comes swooping down the river, just metres over our heads: mouths drop open in this century's addition to tradition.

Mayhem.

The following morning at Wat Ahaan, the ritual masks of Pu No and Na No are brought out from storage and preened for the day's procession later on. A dozen or so children are finger-combing the straw hair of the two red-faced masks representing the devata luang, the town's royal tutelary gods. According to one legend, the Lao kings who ruled until the mid-twentieth century were descended from the king of the heavenly gods, King Borom. The King descended from the sky on his royal elephant and landed at what is now known as Dien Bien Phu. He travelled through thick forests accompanied by Pu No and Na No, who wielded shovels and axes to demolish vegetation and hostile parties. When the party reached the site of the present Luang Prabang, Pu No and Na No became the future town's devata luang, wielding more power than the fifteen nagas that had previously protected the area.

A pensive moment at Wat Ahaan.

By early afternoon, people are lining the footpaths in order to get a good spot to see the parade through town. Water-dousing continues, with nobody spared. The tourists screaming 'Camera! No!' get it down their backs while elegant women wearing traditional clothes get a delicate cupful instead of a bucket. It doesn't take long before we are spotted by some water, lipstick, charcoal and flour-wielding children. The water is a welcome relief from the heat, but it's soon followed by flour, lipstick across the face, and charcoal on the nose. Just when I think it's over, a group of three young girls come running up with their green pails. 'No more!' I plead. They shake their heads and proffer the buckets, dipping their hands in and washing their faces to show what I should do to prepare myself for the parade.

Leave the dress whites at home.

At the head of the procession are the city officials, carrying pyramids of carefully arranged banana leaves and flowers, followed by saffron streams of monks and novices who are splashed with perfumed water containing rose petals. Pu No and Na No come next, accompanied by the little lion known as Singkeo Singkham. Two pick up trucks carrying abbots in litters come next, followed by women dressed in intricately woven traditional sin and pabieng, or skirts and sashes.

Pu No and Na No unmasked!

A chariot of an absurdly large rat – representing of course, the year of the rat – comes next, along with the woman voted as nang sang khan. According to another legend, a God-king with a four-faced head once asked a wise young man a riddle which, if he could not answer, would result in the loss of his head. The young man was able to answer the riddle, leading to the God-king forfeiting his head and his kingdom. Being such a powerful God, however, he knew his death would wreak havoc with the earth. So he ordered the wise man to proffer his head to his seven daughters, who would store it deep in the earth, but bring it out to be paraded once a year in order for the world to live peacefully. The nang sang khan represents one of the God-king's daughters.

We follow the parade which concludes with groups of men dancing the fon dab, a traditional Lao dance, to sprawling Wat Xieng Thong. Here there are more dancers and musicians, and stalls selling young coconuts, Pepsi and noodles have sprung up. More importantly, Pu No and Na No accept offerings from the people, before officially ending the day by performing a dance. In the meantime, monks are themselves being washed behind curtains and are peeped at by children brave enough to draw them back for a moment.

No powder in sight.

The following day is the day the spirit of the new year arrives. At sunrise, there is a special tak bat, where monks are given fruits, sweets, cakes flowers and money – rather than just the usual sticky rice. At Phu Si, the hill dominating the town, women kneeling on mats with silver bowls catching the crawling sun wait patiently for the monks to arrive. Like rays of the arriving sunlight itself, the single file monks emerge eventually and take their alms.

An hour later the attention focuses on Phu Si itself. Under the heady scent of frangipani, families arrive to walk up the hill to Wat That Chom Si with rice, lollies and biscuits to propitiate the spirits. The offerings are left along the 328 steps leading all the way to the summit. A group of mischievous kids pick up the sweets as soon as possible after they've been laid out: some have been well-trained, bringing plastic bags for the collecting! From Thaat Chom Si, the view is stunning. Mist drifts through the impressive mountains in the distance while the Nam Khan stretches like a lover below.

Everyone gets some.

In the afternoon, yesterday's parade goes in the reverse direction. We arrive at Wat Xieng Thong well before the parade begins to observe the preparations. The masks of Pu No and Na No are brought out for display. Children in red and blue outfits sit around them, patiently waiting. Monks with black umbrellas begin to congregate. A recalcitrant monk asks one of the children to go buy him a packet of cigarettes. The men who will wear the masks tighten their pull-tie pants with a grimace and allow the masks to be placed on their heads. Lipsticked girls shade themselves under dainty umbrellas as they wait, fanned by nearby friends to stay cool.

Led by the Lao flag, the parade begins again and heads back to Wat That Luang with similar crowd participation.

On the second day of the new year, after the official celebrations are over, the residents of Luang Prabang traditionally head by boat to the Pak Ou caves located twenty-five kilometres upstream. Here they pay homage to the multitudes of Buddha statues, as well as asperse them with perfumed water.

The view from Pak Ou.

We hire a boat in the morning to take us there, through the mist and the ubiquitous frangipani scent. At the caves, children sell flowers, incense, orange candles and water perfumed with yellow, pink and white flower petals. People inside are quietly sprinkling water over the statues, the occasional boat engine the only sound intruding. In the darker cave, the atmosphere is intimate, with curlicues of smoke being caught in the flickering candlelight. Footsteps are muted in the dust, people speak in hushed tones and get their photograph taken praying at the shrines – the flash a sudden reminder of what century it is.

The following day, the rituals continue, with the procession of the Pha Bang taking place. The highly revered golden image of Buddha is no more than 50cm tall and originally came from Sri Lanka, via a king of Cambodia. Moved throughout history variously between Luang Prabang, Vientiane and the then capital of Siam, Thonburi, it is now stored at the National Museum, formerly the Royal Palace. Led again by Pu No and Na No, the Pha Bang is carried from the Museum in a prasat, a small carved wooden palace-like structure, to the courtyard of Wat Mai, where a marquee has been specially erected. It's a short but colourful and joyous procession.

Timeless rituals.

Here the Pha Bang will stay, illuminated by fluorescent lights, for three days and nights. Flowers, incense and candles are offered at such a rate that a few people are specially employed to remove them as they pile to unmanageable heights. The people also bless the Pha Bang with holy water through a hanglin, a hollow wooden implement carved into the shape of a naga. The water is poured through the tail of the naga, flowing through to the serpent's mouth and then onto the Pha Bang placed below it. Until a few decades ago, the King would carry out this, along with nobles, Pu No, Na No and monks. Today Pu No and Na No and the monks still carry out this duty.

Some things may have changed in Laos, but the beauty of a resilient culture continues to live on.

This story relates to our experience of Pi Mai Lao in Luang Prabang in 1999. A modified version of this story previously appeared on Fourelephants.com & wanderingeducators.com

For many it is a trip of a lifetime -- a month or more backpacking through the tropics of Southeast Asia. For an unlucky few however, the trip goes sideways and they end up having a trip of a lifetime for all the wrong reasons. While Southeast Asia remains overall a safe destination to travel in, here are some simple ways to minimise your chances of having problems and that should (hopefully) help you get the most out of your trip.

Motorbike madness

Motorbikes are arguably the number one way travellers manage to injure or kill themselves, but with some simple precautions, you can minimise your risk. Firstly, wear a helmet -- the roads in Southeast Asia are just as hard as the ones in your home country and wearing a helmet will help to keep your head in one piece should you have an accident. Also, dress sensibly. We're not suggesting full leathers here, but something more than a bikini or a pair of shorts for starters. Closed shoes are better than sandals which are better than flip flops which are better than nothing. Ideally already know how to ride a motorbike and if you want your travel insurance to be valid, have a license. Do you often drive unlicensed in your home country?

It's called a helmet. You should use one.

Mosquitoes

Yes we know, they're bastards. While everyone, including your travel doctor, will tell you it is all about malaria, it isn't. It is all about dengue fever. In most of Southeast Asia, you are far more likely to contract dengue fever than malaria. Both are carried by mosquitoes but there are only pills and potions to prevent and treat malaria, meaning you will still need to protect yourself from mozzies to dodge dengue. Dress sensibly, use repellant, burn mosquito coils and use a mosquito net if one is supplied (even though dengue is spread by daytime biting mosquitoes, we've read of concerns they could now also bite at night in some areas). Don't sleep naked in a swamp.

Rabid animals

Rabies remains a problem in some parts of Southeast Asia. The best way to avoid rabies is to keep your distance from common carriers such as monkeys, dogs and people foaming at the mouth. It is possible to get preventative shots but unless you're planning on having contact with animals or are travelling to a particular area that is known for rabies, this may be an unnecessary expense. My family and I had the shots a couple of years ago in the middle of a rabies outbreak in Bali, Indonesia, but we'd lived for over a decade previously in Asia without them (without coming into contact with animals regularly).

Watch out for geese.

Use government buses

Theft on privately run buses, particularly in Thailand, is endemic. We can't emphasise this enough. If you decide to catch a private bus at night from Bangkok to say Chiang Mai or the southern islands and you stow valuables in the luggage compartment below, please just send them to us as you obviously do not want them. Use the government buses and never stow valuables in your stowed luggage.

Night trains not night buses

Bus accidents happen with disturbing frequency in Thailand. Where possible avoid bus travel at night and catch the train instead. We realise this isn't always possible as there may not be an alternative, but in those cases consider catching long distance buses during the day. Buses do not have seatbelts and despite having an assistant to prod them when they fall asleep, accidents related to drivers falling asleep remain an avoidable risk.

Yes to miniature steam trains, no to night buses.

Watch your stuff

In the big cities and especially during festivals when the streets are packed, pickpockets can have a field day. While the easiest response is not to take valuables out with you (does your room have a safe? use it) sometimes you need to have valuables with you. Use a moneybelt or a button down pocket. Don't drink 600 beers and expect to get home with all your valuables -- opportunistic thieves abound.

Snatch and grab

An annoying and quite dangerous derivative of pickpockets are snatch and grabs. This is where the thief (generally on a motorbike) will zoom past and grab the bag, camera, iPhone off your shoulder or out of your hand. If this happens to you, do not try and hang onto the bag. While you may think you'll pull the motorcyclist off their bike, you won't -- you'll be dragged down the road and end up badly injured or killed instead. Best protect yourself by carrying valuables on the offroad side of the footpath and by carrying a samurai sword.

Robbery: What not to do

Armed robbery in broad daylight in Southeast Asia is thankfully very rare, but robbery of rooms unfortunately is less so. If you wake up in your bungalow to find thieves rustling through your stuff, do not resist nor try to fight them. In many cases they have far more to lose than you (if they're caught by locals they may be beaten to within an inch of their life) and so may turn violent and in rare cases travellers have been killed when a robbery went bad. Our advice, unless totally unavoidable, is to avoid confrontation. In cases where you feel you have no choice and you feel they plan to physically do you harm, fight for your life or flee.

Smoke a peace pipe.

Robbery: How to avoid it

Don't flash your wealth. Don't head out on a boozy evening with thousands of dollars of electronic equipment. Stay in control. Lock your room at night when you're asleep and obviously lock it when you go out. Don't leave valuables in positions where they can be reached from the window.

Sexual assault

While rare in Southeast Asia, particularly in Thailand the number of reported cases of sexual assault appears to be growing. Single female travellers should be wary of others showing undue attention and stay in control. If a situation becomes uncomfortable, leave, preferably not alone. Don't put yourself in situations of extreme vulnerability -- walking home along at 3am along a deserted beach alone while heavily intoxicated, say. We're not saying you don't have the right to do this safely, which you most certainly do, but rather that you may be putting yourself in a more vulnerable position, whether talking about robbery or physical safety, by doing so. It's probably safer to party with a friend.

Getting high

Southeast Asia has some extremely harsh drug laws. The laws regarding entrapment which may apply in your home country may not in Southeast Asia. Just because the tuk tuk driver offers you a bag of weed doesn't mean it is legal nor that he won't give your room number to the police after dropping you off. Never travel with drugs. In Cambodia, especially Phnom Penh, heroin is often passed off as cocaine -- travellers die because of this. Don't work on the assumption you'll always be able to pay your way out.

What not to do 5 minutes after arriving.

Food & drink: Ease your way in

The food across Southeast Asia is fantastic and you'll be tempted to throw yourself straight into it. If you're new to the region, we'd suggest easing your way into it rather than having 15 chillies in your first som tam. This will give your digestive system time to adapt and make for a more pleasant trip -- both for you and your travelling companion.

Food & drink: Don't drink the water

Unless you're staying in a fancypants hotel, don't drink the tap water. Bottled water is available just about everywhere and free refills are becoming more common.

Food & drink: Drink the water

Drink a couple of litres a day. If you're normally shovelling snow this time of year the heat in Southeast Asia may be a shock to the system. Drink a lot of water to keep on top of dehydration.

Use your common sense.

Read the newspaper

People may be saying they're dying, but newspapers (yes, or the internet) remain a great way of keeping on top of current events. If there has been a cholera outbreak in your next destination, it may be be mentioned in the paper. Read the news -- international and local -- and plan accordingly.

Travel insured

Make sure you have comprehensive insurance cover for when you travel. Sometimes this comes with a credit card or your standard health insurance provider, but other times you are well advised to buy travel insurance. We recommend World Nomads -- they are who we use every single time we travel.

Don't freak out

Despite all of the above, Southeast Asia remains a very safe region to travel in. Pack your brain and use your common sense and you'll be a long way down the road to having a good trip. Also, worth noting, don't assume that every local is out to scam, rob or attack you. They're not. The vast, vast majority of locals are one of the greatest reasons of all for travelling to the region.

Safe travels.