The Lifestart Foundation is one of few charities based in Hoi An working with people suffering disabilities due to the lingering, horrific effects of dioxins used around this area during the American War.

Hoi An, a magical, lantern-strewn city wrapped in the protective arms of Unesco, resides slap bank in the middle of Qunag Nam, one of the poorest provinces in Vietnam. This is an area that had 1.3 million litres of Agent Orange dumped upon it during the war's Operation Ranch Hand, from 1965 till 1971. It was also home to the largest dioxin storage facility in the country, which still seeps harmful chemicals into the soil and water -- 38 years after the end of the war.

One of Lifestarts success stories - Xuyen.

Quang Nam has one of the highest incidents of disability in the country; a recent survey of the province estimated that out of every 10 households, one was home to someone affected by some form of disability. Of those households, 89% lived in such poverty that their homes were classified as non-permanent structures.

You’d like to think that almost four decades after the war things were improving, but sadly due to the high incidence of past generations coming into contact with dioxin, birth defects are still high. As well, the social stigma attached to having an affected child is such an unbearable weight to carry for many family members that children -- and adults -- are either hidden away or put into overcrowded government run ‘care’ establishments and orphanages.

Traditional belief (which involves reincarnation of the soul) is that to be born with a disability is punishment for bad deeds or sins committed by family ancestors. Only those whose disabilities were caused by accidents are, in general, looked at in a different light and seen as deserving of pity.

Lifestart scholarship students.

For most, education is unavailable, health care is poor and the social and financial impact on families who care for affected members can be devastating. There is little help; many of those affected by disability never leave their home.

Lifestart does tremendous work to give those affected an opportunity to integrate into ‘normal’ society, by providing rehabilitation, vocational training and support that allows them to have a sustainable career. Created back in 2000 when an Australian traveller, Karen Leonard, passed through town and was affected by the story of a young boy living in a Hoi An orphanage, Lifestart gained charity status in 2004. Since then Karen, Lifestart and a group of changing (often returning) volunteers have helped hundreds of families and individuals gain a foothold in society and carve a new existence for themselves.  They have changed people's lives.

Nhung at Lifestart's free disability centre.

Lifestart also works to help disadvantaged families and provide scholarships for kids, a free school, a workshop and a retail outlet in the old town, as well as a disability centre. Each case the foundation deals with is done on an individual basis. If  child is not attending school regularly because the distance to school is too great, for instance, Lifestart will provide a bicycle; if a family can't afford for a child to attend school, a scholarship programme can help from grade six up.

Kids receiving their new Lifestart school bikes.

Karen has planned from the start that the foundation become a sustainable business, where the retail operations support the needs behind the scenes. It's a work in progress; the need for talented volunteers and donations -- no matter how small -- is great.

A rare day out to the beach.

In Vietnam, giving isn’t quite as easy as you might expect; some issues are very sensitive and few charities get involved as directly as Lifestart does. When you meet the people who have become part of the Lifestart volunteer family, it’s very clear to see why, although their work never ends, they keep on going. It’s a charity that's making a real difference in a town that’s become very good at keeping things behind locked doors.

Lifestart Foundation
Workshop address: 77 Phan Chau Trinh, Hoi An
T (Australia): 03 9331 2540, 0402 132432
www.lifestartfoundation.org.au

Want a countryside escape from Bangkok -- without leaving Bangkok? Just a five-minute taxi ride from Bang Na BTS station plus a four baht ferry hop across the Chao Phraya River and you could be chilling to the sounds of crickets and frogs rather than tuk tuks and bars. Here’s our idea of a perfect weekend getaway on Bangkok’s Phra Phradaeng peninsula.

Friday
Get to San Phawut pier in Bang Na by late afternoon, but before you board a cross-river skiff or longtail taxi, notice your surroundings in Bangkok’s not so charming industrial ring. Watch as taxis and trucks vie for every inch in the congested traffic that crawls past ugly gas refineries, gritty ports and mega-highway overpasses. Notice how the only green around -- shrub-like foliage -- struggles to lay roots within cracks in the concrete.

A little bit of green.

Once on the Phra Phradaeng side of the river, be mesmerised by the contrast in your surroundings. Over here, you’ll see locals unhurriedly pedal bicycles along leafy lanes that meander past teak wood stilted homes set amid lush gardens and forests teeming with wildlife. Thanks to an almost 360-degree oxbow in the Chao Phraya, this “peninsula” is more like an island of green surrounded by -- but disconnected from -- a sea of concrete.

Whether seeking a cheap but comfortable homestay or an eco-friendly resort with plenty of style, Bang Nam Phueng village’s small but interesting accommodation choices will satisfy most tastes. Settle in, breathe the fresh air and let the relaxation begin.

Lunch time peak hour.

No matter which you choose, your accommodation might be so pleasant that you’ll want to do nothing more than kick up your heels on a porch after arriving. Other options include a riverside stroll or bicycle ride at dusk, but don’t go too crazy just yet. Personally, we’d enjoy a slow-paced dinner at our guesthouse of choice, play a few leisurely games of cards or jot down some lines in a journal, and check out the stars before curling up for a quiet night's sleep.

Saturday
Wake up early -- but not too early -- and walk or bike to Phra Phradaeng’s star attraction: Bang Nam Phueng weekend market, which stands out among Bangkok’s plethora of markets as something truly special. Set amid coconut groves and canals, an expansive yet intimate series of footpaths are lined with friendly vendors offering fresh local products that vibrate with colour.

Grazing.

Snack on finger foods like homemade sai krog (Thai sausage, both the northern and northeastern varieties), grilled mushroom skewers dipped in spicy sauce, or khao-niew bing (grilled coconut sticky rice with banana and taro wrapped in banana husks). Or nestle into a kids’ size canalside table for a more proper meal of nam tok muu (spicy and sour grilled pork salad) with sticky rice or ba-mee ped (roast duck noodle soup).

Save a little room for homemade coconut ice cream, and then lie back for a 200 baht, hour-long Thai massage. After sufficiently loosened up, pay 40 baht for a half-hour of rowing a private paddleboat through the canal -- very romantic indeed if you happen to be with a sweetie.

With plenty of afternoon daylight left, hop on a bicycle and pedal along the area’s elaborate network of country roads and raised bike paths that snake through the trees. Make your way to the peninsula’s northeastern corner for two of its most idyllic green spaces: Siamese Fighting Fish Gallery and Sri Nakhon Khuen Khan Park. Feed the fish, freak out the swans, climb a bird watching observation tower and completely forget that one of Asia’s largest cities is just a couple of kilometres away.

Who needs walls?

On the way back to your accommodation, you might stop for a seafood dinner on the tree-lined veranda at Krua Ban Nayok restaurant near Phethahung Soi 28. Don’t forget a torch if returning after dark -- those raised bike paths are narrow and going for a late night dive into a shallow canal is probably not the nightcap you’ll be looking for. A beer on your bungalow porch after successfully returning, on the other hand, sounds just about right.

Sunday
Go ahead -- sleep in -- and then hop back on the bicycle and stop again at Bang Nam Phueng market for a Thai-style Sunday brunch, or skip it and head straight to the west side of the peninsula along Petchahung Road. The terrain will gradually become more developed as the stunning Bhumibol Bridge (Thailand’s longest and tallest) comes into view. With a solid 50 hours of nature already behind you, it will be time for a little culture in Phra Phradaeng town.

After cruising beneath the enormous bridge (feel free to stop at the riverside park beneath it for a photo-op), make a stop at Wat Song Thum. This 300 year-old Ayuttthaya-era temple houses a striking wooden standing Buddha image from the Sukhothai dynasty along with a soaring Mon-style chedi. Sunday late morning and early afternoon are great times to be swept up in a gathering of cheerful locals who come together each week to prepare food for the monks. If you dress appropriately and crack the old ladies a smile, they’ll perhaps invite you in for lunch.

Taxi!

Leave your bicycle at Wat Song Thum and instead let one of the old fashioned human-powered rickshaws take you just south to Phra Phradaeng town. Here, you’ll find some exceptionally lighthearted locals chatting and joking amid the tightly packed old streets where more memorable eats can be scored. After enjoying the town’s inviting air, stroll just north along the river and stop at a picturesque park set around the 200-year-old ruins of Phlaeng Faifa Fort, once a strategic military outpost that was instrumental in protecting the capital.

If you can time your return trip just right, stop by the Firefly Village towards the end of Petchahung Soi 20 at dusk and marvel at the hundreds of fireflies twinkling amid thickly forested paths. Further down Petchahung Road, you might make a detour at Raan Yai Ban just past Petchahung Soi 30 to snatch up some homemade Thai-Mon style sweets that are beloved in the area, you know, for a late night snack.

As the waning hours of your weekend getaway in Phra Phradaeng slip away, a romantic dinner on Bangkok Tree House’s stylish open-air veranda could be just the way to savour one more night “away” from the city. Enjoy locally grown organic produce in simple yet exquisite dishes paired with carefully chosen wines served under the stars.

Blue skies in Bangkok!

Rest easy amid the peace and quiet, and return to the grind of Bangkok on Monday morning feeling refreshed and rejuvenated. And, the best part is: this magical pocket of countryside is always waiting nearby for your next trip, be it an hour or a week, just across the river.

The northernmost station in the BTS system, Mo Chit is number S8 on the Sukhumvit Line. It sits directly over one of Bangkok's busiest roads, Phahonyothin. While best known as a gateway to Chatuchak weekend market, Mo Chit is also useful if catching a bus from the northern bus terminal of the same name, heading to the Bangkok immigration office, Don Muang Airport or anywhere else in the city's northern reaches. One of Bangkok's largest parks is also located in the shadow of the station, and it's one of three places where the BTS connects to the MRT subway line.

Most travellers will only need to worry about one exit from inside Mo Chit BTS station -- number 1. Immediately at the bottom of the stairs, you'll see a line of taxis and minibuses awaiting passengers. Several minibuses (vans) found here can whisk you directly to Don Muang Airport and Bangkok immigration office for 25 to 40 baht. Minibuses headed to Kanchanaburi also depart from here every hour, though it may take some time and patience to find the right van. Taxis are also readily available -- a trip to Don Muang Airport or immigration will run 100-140 baht depending on traffic (make sure the driver uses the meter).

If you pull a U-turn at the bottom of the stairs out of exit 1, you'll see a large local bus stop right in front of you. Bus #52 can take you to the immigration office and #29 to Don Muang Airport. Both pass by every 20 minutes or so throughout the day and cost between eight and 15 baht. Exit 3 takes you straight down to another local bus stop, an extension of the one out of exit 1 really, where it's possible to hail any local bus or minibus as they pass. Note that most local buses and minibuses to the airport and immigration drop passengers off along the main roads, so if you take these expect a 10-minute walk, or to pay a motorbike taxi around 20 baht after being dropped off.

If you're heading in the other direction on Phahonyothin by local bus, take exit 4 out of the BTS station to reach a bus stop on the other side of the street. Apart from that, exits 2 and 4 access only a parking lot and office buildings with little else of interest.

Both exits 1 and 3 drop you at entrances to Chatuchak Park, which features grassy lawns, ponds and footbridges and is a fine place to go for a jog. Walk northwest all the way through Chatuchak Park and, after crossing over Kamphaeng Phet Soi 3, you'll enter Suan Rot Fai, a larger park that's also home to a children's museum (in the southeast corner), butterfly museum (to the east-centre of the park) and a Buddhist study and meditation centre (in the far northeastern corner). Immediately after entering Chatuchak Park, you'll also see one of the entrances to Chatuchak MRT station.

To reach Chatuchak market from the BTS station, take exit 1, walk straight south down Phahonyothin Road, take your first right (heading west with the park immediately to the right) and you'll see the east side of the market on the left. Note that Chatuchak market is a massive affair and its western gates can also be reached directly from Kamphaeng Phet MRT station, located one stop from Chatuchak MRT station. You'll also want Kamphaeng Phet station if heading to Talad Rot Fai.

Although Or Tor Kor gourmet food market isn't far from Mo Chit BTS station, it requires crossing not one but two daunting stretches of Phahonyothin Road, so you're better off taking the subway to Kamphaeng Phet, which has an exit that takes you straight into Or Tor Kor.

The other major point of interest for travellers in this vicinity is Mo Chit (northern) bus terminal. The largest bus station in all of Thailand, Mo Chit mainly services all northern and northeastern destinations but buses also run from here to to the east, west and even a handful to the south of Thailand.

You would think that Mo Chit bus terminal would be easily reached on foot from Mo Chit BTS station, but they're actually two kilometres apart. To reach the bus station on foot, it's necessary to go south all the way around Chatuchak Park and Suan Rot Fai (or through the maze of footpaths within the parks), then take a footbridge overpass to cross busy Kamphaeng Phet Road. Unless you have some time to kill (and a GPS), you'll probably want to hop in a taxi to reach the bus station, which shouldn't cost more than 50 baht. Alternately, local buses #136 and 145 pick up on the east side of Phahonyothin Road (exit 4 out of the BTS station) and make a stop near Mo Chit bus terminal.

Ko Kut (or Koh Kood) is one of Thailand's most beautiful islands. With more than a dozen beaches to explore, many of them picture-perfect, white-sand affairs with Maldives-like turquoise water, this is a truly idyllic beach destination. The development is mostly very low key, the beaches are almost uniformly clean and well kept and the island's rugged jungle interior is both largely untouched yet accessible, with impressive waterfalls and viewpoints to keep you busy for a few off-beach days.

Simply put, we just love it.

Ko Kut developed in a slightly different way to most of Thailand's islands, with a focus on all encompassing tours originally being the primary way to visit. While the groups, mostly Bangkokians on weekenders and Russians escaping the ravages of Pattaya, are still hitting the island, plenty of travellers now visit on a DIY basis and there is a comprehensive choice of places to stay. Even backpackers won't have to totally break their budget to experience what is arguably the best island in Thailand.

What's not to love?

Ko Kut isn't for everyone though -- if you're hankering after a late night party scene, while Ko Kut does have a couple of great bars, this probably isn't a destination for you. Likewise the diving and snorkelling is mediocre at best. Instead Ko Kut is all about laying around, soaking up some rays, perhaps doing some kayaking or hiking to a waterfall and just slowing down a little.

Slow day.

So where to stay? Here's our pick of what we reckon are the very best places to stay on Ko Kut.

Backpackers
While the cheapest spots are off the beach, backpackers wanting to swing in a hammock and enjoy the ocean views should make a beeline to the very friendly Koh Kood Ngam Kho Resort. They've got a bunch of old-style beach bungalows on a short rise running up from the beach and an excellent restaurant. The food isn't backpacker priced, but it's outstanding and comes in huge portions. The beach here isn't the best either, but Dusita next door has lovely beachfront, so hang out there. The cheapest huts are 500 baht with share bathroom and 750 baht with your own bathroom. If you're happy to go off the beach, Cozy House and Happy Days will house you for a few less baht.

Hammock-cam at Ngam Kho.

Flashpackers
If Ngam Kho is a little too old school, you'll not need to walk far to find our flashpacker pick for Ko Kut, the very friendly and family-run Dusita Resort. They offer a range of bungalows from simple fan-cooled huts through to larger family-orientated lodgings. Standards are high and the grounds are just lovely -- a large lawn setting with hammocks and lazy chairs scattered around under the coconut palms. The spacious setting makes this a good choice for families. Like Ngam Kho next door, the food is excellent, as is the beach.

I have no idea whose Chang Beer that is littering Dusita's lawn

Families
At first glance we thought Koh Kood Beach Resort was a little bland, but upon closer inspection, we really warmed to it -- probably in part due to the staff, who are an incredibly friendly lot. The grounds are spacious, with most of the lumbung-style rooms in a row towards the rear of a large lawn which separates them from the large well-appointed restaurant and swimming pool. There is a small beach here, and while we were told the snorkelling wasn't bad, we'd expect the pool would get quite a bit of use. Rooms are spacious and enjoy great views out to sea.

Easy to keep an eye on the kids at Koh Kood Beach Resort.

Lovers
Ko Kut is a beautiful island and we'd guess it does more than its fair share of weddings and honeymoons. While the beaches might be the first choice for many looking for a romantic hideaway, we're going to go off the reserve and nominate the exceedingly lovely Bann Makok as our choice for lovers. Set among the mangroves on a river that empties out to sea just a 10-minute kayak paddle away, Baan Makok boasts lovely refurbished wooden rooms clustered around a restaurant, library and massage sala. Each room is different but they're all charming and ridiculously spacious. We showed up just to inspect it and booked a night on the spot. This is a very special spot.

My bathroom: Not a painting. At Bann Makok.

Fancypants
When it comes to high-end accommodation on Ko Kut, you've got the high end and the HIGH. Firmly occupying the latter is the Soneva Kiri. It's an astonishing resort: imagine stupendous views, a dedicated chocolate room, a private cinema and even its own time zone. When we visited they were near capacity due to a Chinese wedding party that had booked nearly the entire resort, so they were only able to show us one of their large villas. The villa was lovely -- as it should be -- and the staffer showing us around advised it goes for a cool US$17,000 per night. More typical fare can be found online at around the $700 per night mark. There's nowhere else quite like it on the island and friends who have stayed here on comped or heavily discounted stays have been universally complimentary of the actual accommodation -- not so much on the food.

Soneva Kiri: where the slide goes directly from the kids' room.

Should you book in advance?
Ko Kut is a seasonal island and the best time to visit is between November and March, when you're almost assured of tremendous weather. The island is busiest on weekends, so if you're planning a stay in high season or over a weekend, making a reservation is a good idea. Many places can be booked online at discounted rates via Agoda or via their website -- or just pick up the phone.

Ferry is faster.

How to get to Ko Kut
The closest mainland town to Ko Kut is Trat which has daily flight and regular bus services to Bangkok. The ferry pier is about a 30-minute drive from Trat -- ferry tickets normally include the transfer from Trat. In high season speedboat services run between Ko Kut and nearby Ko Chang.

For first-time visitors to Burma (Myanmar), Bagan is a must-see destination. Spread across a vast plain, hemmed in on two fronts by the Ayeyarwady River and home to thousands of monuments, it's an evocative and fascinating place to explore, whether for two days or 10. While some of the monuments are fabulous, the accommodation is generally less so. Spread across three towns kilometres apart, it can be a little difficult for travellers to initially decipher. Here's our primer on the best places to stay in Bagan, for both budget and the more upmarket traveller.

Before we get into the nitty gritty, some orientation is in order. Bagan's accommodation is split across three main areas: Nyaung-U and Wetkyi-Inn (which I'm going to refer to as just Nyaung-U) to the northeast, Old Bagan to the northwest and New Bagan to the southwest. Broadly speaking, Nyaung-U has the bulk of the budget accommodation, New Bagan has the midrange digs that tend to appeal to tour groups and Old Bagan caters to the more upmarket traveller.

Like the monuments, some hotels could do with a renovation.

Each has its pros and cons. Nyaung-U has the best selection of places to eat, is most likely where your night bus will drop you, is closest to the airport but is also furthest from the monuments. Old Bagan is the closest to the monuments -- at least one hotel has two monuments within its grounds -- but this isn't as useful as it may sound as the rest of the monuments are still miles away. There's also some good eating in the area. The main disadvantage is the hotels are quite expensive, and in many cases woefully overpriced.

New Bagan is closer than Nyaung-U to some of the monuments but you will still need transport to see the others. The accommodation is mostly midrange, and, in our opinion, not great value.

Budget guesthouses in Bagan
If you're travelling on a budget, Bagan is going to involve a little bit of wallet pain, but minimise it by staying in Nyaung-U. At $8 for a fan-cooled room with a shared bathroom, the very basic Pann Cherry Guesthouse is difficult to beat. As a bonus it's straight across the road from Weatherspoon's Cafe -- one of our favourite places to eat in Bagan.

Not a guesthouse, but would be a great one.

If Pann Cherry is too basic, our pick of the budget digs in Bagan is Shwe Na Di Guesthouse, which has a range of options from $15 up to $30. The rooms are clean, the WiFi works and the staff are friendly and helpful. A newer orange building out back will have flashpackers sleeping very comfortably. This is our pick of the bunch, and with loads of rooms, Shwe Na Di Guesthouse shows plenty of promise. If they're full, Winner Guesthouse out in Wetkyi-Inn isn't exactly a winner, but is popular, similarly priced and far closer to the monuments. A couple of places close to Shwe Na Di are also worth a look should you not want to trek out to Winner.

If for some reason you've ended up in New Bagan and are having trouble stomaching the prices, try Mya Thida Hotel, which has spartan but very clean four-bed dorms for $15 a head and doubles from $30 -- check online for discounted rates. It's a friendly spot and they're trying to build it into a bit of a traveller centre.

A challenging welcome drink.

Midrange hotels in Bagan
Bagan is a very mixed bag when it comes to the midrange, but one absolute standout is Oasis in Nyaung-U, which was doing its $80 rooms for $50 when we passed through. With a small pool almost completed at the end of its lovely little garden, this is our absolute number one choice in Bagan.

A veritable Oasis.

For a little less money (and a lot more wear and tear), Bagan Umbra Hotel, at the eastern reaches of Wetkyi-Inn, is a solid choice with comfortable though very basic rooms in the $30 to $40 range, with a fair-sized swimming pool thrown in. Spread over spacious grounds, this is a good option for those travelling with kids -- the room next to ours had a very serious collection of My Little Ponys left out every morning. The rooms could do with a solid revamp though and as the hotel has recently changed hands, perhaps that's on the way.

In New Bagan, we liked the Thiri Sandar Royal Bagan Hotel, with clean and very well kept modern rooms in the $22 to $35 range. Piping hot showers, very good WiFi (by Bagan standards) and a good location for local eateries make this a good flashpacker option.

Further afield, the Kumudara Hotel (from $38) is popular with groups, and we loved the quasi-desert poolside setting, but the rooms can be variable -- be sure to ask to see another if the first isn't up to scratch. The location, a solid 10-minute walk down a dusty road, isn't one of New Bagan's better ones.

I prefer my swimming pools with a view of ancient monuments.

If you want to stay in Old Bagan, the Bagan Thande Hotel has some standard rooms squirrelled around the back going from $65 -- we'd much rather spend that money at Oasis, but if you simply must stay in Old Bagan and can't afford to set your wallet on fire, this is your best semi-budget bet.

High-end hotels in Bagan
Bagan does not do the high end well. The hotels are uniformly overpriced for the offerings, sometimes ridiculously so -- but it seems those with more dollars than sense continue to pay these amounts. When shown a "river view" room at Bagan Hotel River View, we almost fell over after being told they rent it at $250 per night in low season, only then to be hit with a double whammy of the high season rate -- $350. Complete madness.

Big dollars for a big pool.

If you want to stay in Old Bagan, the pick of the bunch is absolutely The Hotel @ Tharabar Gate with rates starting at $150. The rooms are lovely, well decorated, and, in a change for the cluster of high-end madness around here, the staff actually know what they're on about. The pool is on the small side, but it's a lovely hideaway should it fit your budget.

The high-end delivers on lovely riverside settings.

Final notes
In high season Bagan can get pretty busy and booking in advance can be a sterling idea, but bear in mind that many places (as of yet) cannot be booked online, so do pick up the phone and give them a call. Online rates with Agoda for those that can be booked online are very variable, with some are considerably cheaper online, others cheaper as a walk-in; like many things in Burma, it's complicated. All rates listed above are what we were quoted as a walk-in customer.

Sapa is one of Vietnam's premium attractions, enticing both foreigners and Vietnamese with its mix of stunning scenery and culture. The heart of the town, near the market square and church, is now almost entirely devoted to tourism services with hundreds of visitors arriving every morning, mostly off the overnight train from Hanoi.

Then there is Bac Ha, also in Lao Cai province, 110 kilometres away. Bac Ha district is Flower Hmong heartland and Bac Ha town is best known for its Sunday market, which attracts vendors and shoppers from far and wide. Although the market is a big tourist pull, and trekking opportunities just as appealing as those in Sapa, far fewer visitors choose Bac Ha as a base, and its development as a tourist destination is years behind that of Sapa.

The two towns are barely comparable. Sapa, with its multitude of hotels, restaurants and other tourist services and Bac Ha with, well, none of that. Which one's right for you?

Now that's a balcony view.

Transport
Both are accessible from Lao Cai by bus but Sapa's easier to reach. Minibuses depart regularly direct from Lao Cai station or, for the return journey, from your hotel or the church, and the journey only takes around 45 minutes.

To get to Bac Ha you'll need to go to the bus station in Lao Cai and travel time is a couple of hours. You can pick a bus up however without having to wait too long from arrival by overnight train from Hanoi and the price is only slightly higher than the bus up to Sapa. Heading back into Lao Cai from Bac Ha you will end up with a spare few hours in Lao Cai, due to bus times.

Flower H'mong want to sell you a cucumber.

If you're travelling onward, then starting in Sapa shaves a few hours off a journey up to Dien Bien Phu and the Laos border and Bac Ha is closer to Ha Giang.

Accommodation
If you're fussy about where you lay your head at night, and particularly if you want high-end or luxury accommodation, then Bac Ha will not suit your needs. But most will find something suitable, from budget US$10 a night places -- and no, they're not pretty but they're US$10 -- to the priciest place in town, the Sao Mai hotel, which still only comes in at around US$35 for the best room.

Sapa, on the other hand, lists 62 hotels on Agoda alone, from US$5 dorm beds through to the fancy Victoria Sapa Hotel.

Wining and dining
While Sapa is by no means the culinary capital of Vietnam, there's plenty of variety of food on offer, from local cuisine through to pizza, burgers, Indian, steak, tapas and pasta. Wine is also covered, and although Sapa's not a late night place a couple of places do stay open after midnight and can get lively if the right crowd is in.

This meal does not exist in Bac Ha.

Bac Ha has a handful of tourist friendly restaurants -- in other words, places with English-language menus that throw a few Western dishes in with the Vietnamese -- as well as local restaurants. You'll find enough variety for a few nights but don't expect to come away culinarily enriched – and the wine's more likely to be local rice or corn wine.

Views from the town
Sapa provides countless opportunities to wonder at the scenery. Depending on where you stay you might not even have to get out of bed to get a glimpse of the valley and Fansipan Mountain, and sitting with a drink, looking out over the valley is an agreeable way to pass a few hours or even a day.

Bac Ha town doesn't have mountain views although with no shortage of people watching opportunities -- especially on a Sunday -- you might be just as happy at street level.

Trekking
Organised treks of varying length are available from both locations, with or without homestays. With fewer tourists using Bac Ha as a base you are likely to end up in a smaller group -- probably a private tour -- and consequently cheap treks are not available.

Fancy a wander?

Private treks are also available in Sapa but for those on a budget the group treks are much friendlier on the wallet.

If you want to go it alone, it's possible in both but easier from Sapa as village locations are clearly marked from the main roads and the short walk to Cat Cat village and waterfall is easily done. You can walk to Ban Pho village from Bac Ha, but once there you're on your own so don't get lost.

Market tours
If it's all about the markets for you -- and they are certainly worth a look -- then Bac Ha is the place to be. Visit Coc Ly on Tuesday, Cao Son on Wednesday, Can Cau on Saturday, Xim Man or Bac Ha on Sunday. You don't even have to travel for the last one.

The nearest ethnic minority market to Sapa is Muong Hom, but on our last visit at the end of 2012 the road was treacherous due to construction and not recommended -- hopefully it's now been improved. Bac Ha market is also a popular organised day trip from Sapa. It takes about three hours to get there so make sure you get on a tour that's leaving early, or you'll miss the best bits. The other markets can be visited from Sapa on a private tour but that's going to cost you, and it's a lot of time in a car.

Tourist services
As well as having numerous hotels and restaurants, Sapa is also better set up altogether for tourists with a wider range of tour operators to choose from, a few ATMs and shopping galore. Bac Ha has one main tour operator, no ATMs and the only decent souvenir shopping is at one of the markets. Motorbike hire and postal services are available at both.

Average room with a not-average view.

Hassle
A lot of people find the hassle from the Hmong women on the streets of Sapa, as well as the hordes of women that tag along on treks with the ultimate aim of selling you a bag, to be irritating. This is mercifully absent in Bac Ha, except for on market day, but even then it's not too much of an intrusion.

In conclusion
Of course, which spot you choose comes down to personal preference. You could always split your time between the two: a few nights in Sapa for a trek and to take in the scenery over a cafe latte, followed by a night or two in Bac Ha for the market.

But in summary, the main difference is that Bac Ha is less touched by crowds and is a better base for visiting the markets, whereas Sapa might be more up your street -- or mountain -- if you want ease, more culinary variety and a ready view on your doorstep. Whichever you choose, the north of Vietnam is a worthy tourist destination and unlikely to leave you disappointed.

Well away from the sunset cocktail bars and five-star resorts of Phuket there are untold stories of families in struggle. When families are burdened by poverty, illness, addiction or abuse, it’s often the children who suffer the most. Life sometimes gets tough enough that the family home is no longer safe or secure for a child; in some cases, there is no home for them to go to. This is where the Phuket Sunshine Village (PSV) Foundation steps in to help.

As “a home for children without parents and a safe place for a better future”, PSV provides shelter and care to about 100 children aged three to 18.

The foundation was launched after the Asian tsunami of December 2004 when members of the Lions Club of Phuket Andaman Sea formulated a plan to use the generous outpouring of goodwill and funds after the disaster to build a long-term project to help those in need in the community.

Playtime. The village provides safe shelter to about 100 children.

With help from the French Red Cross and private donors from around the world, the village was officially opened in June 2007. PSV operates with the support of Child Watch Phuket, a child care and protection charity that has operated for some 20 years in Phuket.

Some of the children living at the village are orphans but most have come from a place of abuse or neglect, from homes blighted by drug or alcohol problems, or where single parents are unable to cope. The ultimate goal is to return the children to their home whenever possible if the family situation has stabilised.

Aerial view of Phuket Sunshine Village, located on Ko Siray.

The 12 houses of the village, modest bungalows arranged around a central playground and dining area, are each home to up to 10 children as well as one house "mother" who looks after them. Based on the concept of SOS Kinderdorf launched in Austria in 1949, there’s strong emphasis on family values and maintaining a loving environment.

Walking around the colourful village, one is struck by the joyful community atmosphere. The smiles and playfulness of the children here betray no hint of their difficult pasts.

Children are encouraged to take responsibility and learn new skills, pitch in to do the cooking and cleaning and help one another. Most of the kids attend a Thai government school located just down the road, and a full-time English teacher provides lessons at the village.

Meals are taken communally at the village's central courtyard.

Often with the help of local businesses, the children are involved with a number of sports and other activities around the island. The Phuket Youth Sailing Club in Ao Yon has been particularly proactive in bringing Sunshine Village kids into the sport, with some children having developed into skilled sailors who compete in youth regattas in Phuket and beyond.

All aspects of the village operations including its 25 full-time staff are supported by private donations only – no government help is provided. They have also set up sponsorship packages where you can pay a fixed amount to sponsor the needs of one child for one to 10 years. The foundation is also seeking to raise funds for a sports complex it hopes to build on an adjacent land plot, which will give the children a covered facility to play a range of sports, hold events and put on performances.

Donors come from around the world, including some wanting to give back to the Phuket community after their own lives were touched by tragedy. One of PSV’s most generous sponsors is a donor from Europe who lost his entire family in the 2004 tsunami.

Sunshine Village kids enjoy some downtime in their shared house.

The foundation accepts volunteers by application under rather strict conditions. Volunteers must have a specific skill set that fits the needs of the organisation, be willing to stay for at least six months and organise and finance their own visas, transport and accommodation.

Cash donations are accepted online via PayPal or credit card, and by bank transfer.

Donations in kind are also accepted, and many local residents and visitors bring rice and other food, plus toiletries, toys and children’s clothing directly to the village.

Phuket Sunshine Village Foundation
15/20 Soi Namnungjaidiew, Moo 1, Tiampracha Uthit Rd,
Ko Siray, T. Rassada, Phuket
T: (076) 252 204
www.phuketsunshinevillage.org

Stumpy bananas, rose apples, coconuts and spices sit piled on thin wooden sampans rowed by farmers in bamboo hats. Old teak wood houses seem to bend over the calm water of countryside canals. Local chatter and the mouth-watering scent of whole fishes on the grill fills festive air. Perhaps nothing in Thailand captivates travellers' imaginations more than a floating market.

Before the mid 20th century, rivers and canals were the main way to travel in Thailand. As the sun rose on the days of full and new moons, farmers would haul their goods by boat to trade with other farmers and merchants from the cities. In an era when many learned to row before they could walk, the floating market was a natural extension of an agricultural lifestyle centred around the waterways.

Your Thailand adventure isn't complete without a floating market trip.

When roads and tyres took the place of rivers and oars, floating markets nearly died out. They've seen a resurgence over the past couple of decades, and especially in the last five years, though they typically function today as tourist attractions and community meeting places rather than vital aspects of local farming economies. That's not to say that you should strike them off your itinerary; many floating markets in the greater Bangkok area remain vibrant places brimming with scrumptious food.

Some of the markets mentioned here are not quite accurately termed "floating markets" but to be fair, the Thai term talaat nam literally translates as "water market". Some don't even have vendors on boats, but all are centred around a river or canal, and it's possible to arrange a boat trip at any of them. Keep in mind that many of these places require a one- to two-hour drive outside of Bangkok; click on the name of each for an in depth review with instructions on getting there.

Thaling Chan: a good all-round choice.

Thaling Chan
A quick taxi ride from central Bangkok, Thaling Chan is the most convenient floating market to reach on your own, which also means it's one of the most touristy. Get here early if you want a seat on the floating platform where floating vendors will deliver a decent mix of food straight to your table. Opened in the late 1980s, this was among the first 'new age' floating markets to be set up explicitly for tourism.
Open 08:00 to 16:00, Saturday and Sunday only.

Down to business at Khlong Lat Mayom.

Khlong Lat Mayom
Also on the Thonburi side within Bangkok city limits, Khlong Lat Mayom was launched five years ago as a place for locals to meet and share food on weekends. Though it's become popular with Thai tourists, few foreigners make it here. The market is set along a narrow canal with a handful of boat vendors, but most of the fabulous food is found amid tightly packed walkways on land. Apart from eating, activities include a petting zoo and an arts and crafts station for the kids.
Open 08:00 to 16:00, Saturday and Sunday only.

Inside a floating restaurant at Kwan Riam.

Kwan Riam
Opened in 2012 on the San Saeb canal in Bangkok's eastern reaches, Kwan Riam doesn't hide the fact that it's a modern floating market. That's not necessarily a bad thing -- the spacious confines include cool mist sprayers, full-on restaurants in funky covered boats and even electronic toilets in sparkling clean bathrooms. Though the location off Ramkamhaeng Road is easy to reach by taxi, Kwan Riam has yet to catch on among foreign travellers.
Open 08:00 to 16:00, Saturday and Sunday only.

Surprises around every corner at Bang Nam Phueng.

Bang Nam Phueng
This relatively new market is a focal point in the lives of villagers from Phra Phradaeng (aka Bang Kachao), an unlikely pocket of countryside reachable via a quick ferry hop from Sukhumvit Road. If we could choose just one weekend market in the immediate Bangkok vicinity, Bang Nam Phueng would be it. The vendors are friendly, the food is outstanding and the walkways that snake past canals dripping in tropical foliage make for a memorable atmosphere. After stuffing yourself with food that often comes from local gardens, lie down for a massage, pick up locally made health products or see how your karaoke skills stand up to Thai country tunes.
Open 08:00 to 16:00, Saturday and Sunday only.

Another well-fed customer at Lam Phaya.

Lam Phaya
Set in an enchanting village on the Tha Jeen river to the west of Bangkok, Lam Phaya ticks all of the floating market boxes. It boasts a wealth of food; the atmosphere is more 'local' than touristy; it's spacious with plenty of room for sit-down lunches; many vendors prepare food on rowboats so you won't miss out on those quintessential floating market snaps; it's set around a historic temple with a great museum; and it offers boat trips that allow you to soak up the slow-paced riverside lifestyle. Lam Phaya is worth every bit of the substantial effort it takes to get there.
Open 07:00 to 16:00, Saturday and Sunday only.

Smiling ducks at Don Wai.

Don Wai
It's true that this century-old market along the Tha Jeen doesn't have vendors on boats, and its narrow walkways can get painfully packed, but it's still worth the trip for one of the most incredible spreads of food we've found anywhere in Thailand. Once your hands are full of roast duck, pickled fruits and hard-to-find curries, take respite from the crowds on a lunch cruise to a local temple. Arrive on a weekday or early on a weekend to avoid the crowds.
Open 06:00 to 16:00, every day.

Getting hungry at Khlong Suan.

Khlong Suan
Another boat-free market beside a waterway, Khlong Suan is also worthwhile for its unforgettable food and old school ambiance. With dumplings, steamed curry cakes and fried pork belly in your belly, peruse vintage artefacts in a dusty museum, try out a locally made broom or get a trim at a 100 year-old barber shop. Despite it being so old, Khlong Suan is quite spacious, and it's an excellent choice if you're keen on experiencing a classic canal-side Thai market. And hey, if you really want to see rowboat vendors, Bang Khla can be visited on the same day.
Open 07:00 to 16:00, every day.

Keeping it rustic in Bang Khla.

Bang Khla
Nestled along the Bang Pakong river in Chachoengsao province east of Bangkok, the small but charming Bang Khla consists of a floating dining area surrounded by vendors who prepare food from the comfort of their rowboats. The eats are good, but the relaxed setting and lack of tourists are the real draws. Be sure to leave room for the luscious yellow mangoes that this area is famous for.
Open 08:00 to 16:00, Saturday and Sunday only.

Fried flowers: a Ko Kret specialty.

Ko Kret
Mainly a land market set along the coast of this green island that sits within the Chao Phraya river north of Bangkok, Ko Kret is the place in Thailand to sample authentic Mon food. When you're full of Mon specialties, shop for earthen clay Mon pottery, take a spin around the island on a bicycle, or hop in a boat for a cruise to a canal flanked by houses where you'll find some of the best Thai style sweets in Thailand.
Open 08:00 to 16:00, Saturday and Sunday only.

Floating souvenirs and beer at Damnoen Saduak.

Damnoen Saduak
If you book "the floating market tour" from just about any run-of-the-mill Bangkok travel agency, chances are you'll end up here. Those arriving just after sunrise are treated to the photogenic scenes of boats filled with brightly coloured produce that put floating markets on the tourist trail in the first place. Arrive later in the morning and you'll be swept into a sweaty traffic jam of boat engine exhaust and one-time farmers who now sell trinkets and beer to the tourist hordes.
Open 05:00 to 12:00, every day.

Amphawa: it does get busy.

Amphawa
Set around a canal rimmed by well-preserved teak wood homes, Amphawa has become the floating market of choice for many weekending Bangkokians. Though some farmers sell produce in the early morning, most boat vendors sell prepared foods, including the mackerel and other seafood that Samut Songkhram province is famous for. Boat trips to nearby attractions are a popular pastime -- perhaps too popular as the canal can feel like a boat parking lot at times. If Amphawa is too crowded for you, nearby Bang Noi and Bang Nok Khwaek host smaller, more laid back floating markets.
Open 07:00 to 16:00, Saturday and Sunday only.

Keeping it real at Tha Kha.

Tha Kha
Locals have been trading goods by boat in this sleepy farm community for centuries, and early morning at Tha Kha remains the best bet to experience a traditional Thai floating market. You can't beat Tha Kha's 'authentic' scenes of weathered farmers rowing boats that brim with tropical fruits, dried chillies, fresh caught fish and prepared foods. Be sure to take a rowboat cruise through canals squished between low-hanging palms and wild flowers en route to farms where sugar is rendered from coconut sap.
Open 05:00 to 12:00, Saturday, Sunday and full/new moon days only.

Many travellers feel that no Thailand adventure would be complete without an elephant trek. The sad fact is that many elephants are overworked, underfed and mistreated at tourist-driven attractions, and their backs are not suited to carrying people for long stretches. In an idyllic slice of Kanchanaburi province, however, Elephant's World is a non-profit elephant refuge that offers a fun and responsible alternative to the usual tourist elephant camps.

Elephant rides at Ayutthaya, Pai and Phuket (among many other places) are some of the most popular tourist activities in Thailand. It may seem innocent enough, but an elephant is not a horse. While their powerful necks can support a mahout with ease, bearing a load of more than 100 kilos at a time places an immense strain on their backs -- and stress on their sensitive minds. Even if owners provide a balanced diet, which many do not, the long hours can lead to malnutrition as there's simply not enough time for the elephants to eat and drink.

Elephant's World: where you can work for the elephants.

Though logging was officially outlawed by the Thai government in 1989 due to the destruction of some three quarters of the country's forests, many elephants are still illegally used for pulling heavy timber up rugged hills. Worse yet are the "begging elephants" that are forced to "perform" on the streets for pocket change. Thankfully, Bangkok now strongly enforces a ban on this practice, but it remains common in provincial Thai cities.

Created in 2008 by Kanchanaburi veterinary officer, Dr Samart Prasitthiphon, Elephant's World is a non-profit refuge for "sick, old, disabled, abused, illegal and street elephants" that are typically donated or purchased after enduring decades of hard work. After a day at Elephant's World, you'll know the residents by name.

Say hi to Samboon.

There's Malee, a 44-year-old who has walked with a limp ever since she was hit by a truck while begging in Bangkok, while 33-year-old bull, Rom Sai, has an eye that was impaled by a tree branch when he worked in the northern Thai hills. Songkran, aged 74, was so exhausted from decades of carrying tourists in Phuket that she could hardly stand when she first arrived at Elephant's World. Despite the blindness that developed after decades of logging and tourist trekking, 57-year-old Lam Duan is patiently cared for by a long-term Japanese volunteer. These are just a few of the elephants who enjoy a dignified retirement at Elephant's World.

Gently guiding blinded Lam Duan to drink.

With a handful of log cabins, raised wooden walkways, dirt paths and thatched shelters for the animals, Elephant's World has the feel of a harmonious country village. In the shadow of jungle-clad mountains, the River Kwai slides past friendly dogs, goats, chickens and water buffalo that all mingle peacefully with the elephants. Mainly Karen mahouts do their best to maintain a casual order over this motley bunch. Locals stop by often to feed the elephants, help with projects and relax by the river, and volunteers from all over the world stay for a month or more.

The scenery at Elephant's World is spectacular.

On a one-day visit, the relaxed atmosphere allows visitors plenty of time and space for intimate encounters with the elephants. You'll learn how, just like humans, they each have their own distinct personalities, quirks and favourite foods. Though we've spent brief periods around elephants many times before, it wasn't until our day at Elephant's World that we gained a true sense of their intelligence, playfulness and sensitivity.

Just hanging around.

Immediately after arriving, our volunteer-guide briefed us on the organisation's mission while offering loads of info on the plight of working elephants in Thailand. She mentioned that, although the mahouts' rods with steel hooks at the end might seem inhumane or violent, they're a necessary tool that the animals have come to respect, just like how a horse respects its reins. Once an elephant and mahout have developed a relationship, a subtle nudge with the rod is all that's needed to get the animal moving in the right direction.

Preparing the sticky rice.

After offering fruits and veggies to several of the elephants, we spent an hour chopping up pumpkins and boiling sticky rice for later. Elephants were showered with hoses, dogs snoozed under tables and water buffaloes peaked out of mud puddles as we enjoyed a relaxing midday lunch on a shaded wooden deck over the river.

Like we said -- working for the elephants.

Led by volunteers and staff, we then piled into a couple of trucks and drove a few kilometres to a banana grove. Here we used machetes to chop down donated banana trees, carried the dripping trunks through the forest and stacked them onto the bed of a pick-up. The broad leaves dragged along the road as a few brave visitors secured the trees by balancing on top of them for the ride back to camp. Elephants can eat up to 300 kilograms of vegetation per day, we learned, and the trees would be gobbled up by sundown.

There is a pick-up truck under there.

When we returned, the mahouts shouted boisterous commands as the elephants excitedly crowded around the trucks, which they've come to associate with an afternoon snack. They waited with patience as we rendered the boiled pumpkin and sticky rice into bite-size balls. With a solid hour for them to indulge in this daily treat, there was plenty of time for photo-ops.

Happy elephants, happy people.

The full-bellied elephants then sauntered in their silent way over to the river, where this time it was us -- the swimsuit-clad visitors -- who did our best to contain our excitement. This part of the program is referred to as the "elephant bath". The animals did receive a good scrubbing, but it reminded us more of a wild pool party.

Now for the real fun.

Visitors did their best Tarzan impressions while leaping -- or belly-flopping -- off a rope swing. Courageous kids in life vests bobbed as the animals waded around them. Elephants burst skywards with a thunderous splash that tossed their grinning mahouts aside. Needless to say, this was the highlight of the day.

One excited elephant (and one wet mahout).

When the elephants finally trotted back to shore with the promise of refreshing banana trees, visitors were free to keep swimming, kick back with locals who had arrived to enjoy the late afternoon scenery, or follow the elephants for a final few moments of bonding. Though we were exhausted when our minibus returned to Bangkok that evening, this was a day that we'll never forget.

Come and meet the gang!

A one-day visit to Elephant's World runs from 10:00 to 16:00 and costs 2,000 baht per person, including a Thai buffet lunch and pick-up/drop-off in Kanchanaburi town if desired. All money received goes directly to the care of the elephants and related expenses. Even if you can't make it to Kanchanaburi, Elephant's World is a non-profit that's well worth supporting. Donations can be made through their informative website.

Calling all volunteers.

Elephant's World also needs volunteers on an ongoing basis; those staying for one month are asked to contribute a relatively small fee for food and room-and-board. The organisation has a flexible outlook, so shorter or longer stays are also possible. If you have the time, volunteering is an excellent opportunity to make friends with the elephants and other volunteers, staff and visitors while enjoying a nature-oriented refuge of your own.

Other organisations doing great work for elephants in Thailand include Elephant Nature Park and Patara Elephant Farm, both in Chiang Mai province, and Wildlife Friends Foundation in Petchaburi.

6th photo down courtesy of Elephant's World. 11th photo down courtesy of Chinnapatt Chongtong.

Though it's thought of as a quick and easy escape from Bangkok, Ko Samet is one island where it pays to do some planning before you arrive. Each with its own distinctive vibe, a dozen different beaches are spread over a long sliver of land. Whether you seek to party with friends, have fun with the family, relax with a lover, indulge in luxury or keep it cheap and basic, Samet has what you're looking for -- if you know where to find it.

Connected by a rough, hilly road, the relatively long distances between some beaches can turn a last minute accommodation search into a frustrating ordeal. Knowing what sort of experience you're after will make arriving a lot easier. It's also wise to be aware of when to visit Ko Samet. While the island sees the usual peak season tourism in late December and January, it gets packed with Thai holidaymakers almost every weekend. Arrive on a Saturday or Thai holiday and you may be forced to pay greatly inflated prices for a mediocre room.

Where are you heading?

Where's theaction?
Most of the nightlife is found on Haad Sai Kaew, a kilometre-long stretch of powdery white sand that also has the most resorts, restaurants and other services of any beach on Samet. It's no Patong or Haad Rin, but it gets lively after dark -- especially on weekends -- when beach bars, fire spinning shows, live music and thumping DJs attract a wide mix of people. Anyone hoping for tranquility should look elsewhere.

Gearing up for a Saturday night on Haad Sai Kaew.

With a stack of mainly overpriced midrange resorts, you have to pay a premium to stay on Haad Sai Kaew. In the mid to high-end range, Tonsak, Grand View and Sai Kaew Beach are all decent choices. Those on a budget could stay at Sinsamut or Laem Yai Hut, though you may be better off with a comfier room for less cash in the nearby village.

Just past Ao Hin Khok to the south of Haad Sai Kaew, Ao Phai is anchored by a loud and colourful beach party on weekends. With the exception of one great midrange choice in Samed Villa, the accommodation here is notable only for a few off-the-beach budget spots (see below).

On the north side of Samet, Bar & Bed's decadent swimming pool dance parties have transformed Ao Noi Na from sleepy bay to premier nightlife destination.

Ao Wong Duen -- family playground.

Where should I bring the family?
For a comfortable holiday with no shortage of conveniences, Ao Wong Duen is probably the best bet for families with kids of any age. As Samet's second most popular beach, it offers a more relaxed vibe than Haad Sai Kaew to the north, though plenty of restaurants, low key bars and activities ensure that there's enough to do.

Wong Duen boasts some of the island's best midrange resorts, including Vong Duern Villa, Vong Deuan Resort and Samed Cabana. For something cheaper, Nice & Easy or Sea Horse 2 should do the trick. Families who want to escape the crowds -- and forgo the conveniences that come with them -- might also check out the more secluded bays.

Ao Nuan Bungalows -- Haad Sai Kaew feels a world away.

Seclusion and romance?
Some of our favourite places to stay are found in the serene little bays that dot the east coast of Samet's long southern tail. Tubtim Resort on Ao Tubtim is a quiet, well-managed low to midrange spot that's not too far from the livelier northern beaches. Just south of that, tiny Ao Nuan's lone bungalow joint feels like the Samet of years past. Guests read books rather than surf the net, which is not available here, and instead of concrete blocks, a few simple wood bungalows blend into lush forest.

Cottage life at Nimmanoradee.

Further south, Ao Wai is arguably Samet's most idyllic bay. With no less than 17 different room types that range from 1,000 to 7,000 baht, the beach's only resort, Samet Ville, ensures that couples can enjoy quietude without sacrificing comfort. All the way down at Samet's southern tip, staying at midrange Nimmanoradee Resort on Ao Pakarang feels like being cast off to a hidden paradise that happens to have charming octagonal sea-view cottages nestled into a hillside of orchids, frangipani and birdsong.

For a sense of isolation without straying so far from the village and Haad Sai Kaew, Mooban Talay's elegant midrange villas on northern Ao Noi Na seem designed specifically for a romantic retreat.

What about luxury?
Quality midrange resorts can be found practically everywhere on Samet, but those seeking a true luxury experience usually head to one of two places. On the island's west coast, Ao Phrao boasts a trio of massive upscale resorts that are about as far from backpacker land as you can get. While all three are plush, Le Vimarn's exotic hillside villas, beachside swimming pool and full-service spa make it one of the best choices for well-heeled travellers. At time of writing, the July '13 oil spill had been largely cleaned up and Ao Phrao's resorts were readying to reopen.

Ao Phrao -- no oil in sight.

For some serious isolation to go with top-end pampering, head to Paradee on scenic Ao Kiu Na Nok in the island's far southern reaches. After enjoying an evening massage while surrounded by dozens of scented candles and the lapping waves, settle into a salubrious villa. The top-end suite, which comes complete with a private butler, can be yours for just 71,000 baht a night.

Okay, where's cheap?
Though Samet has seen an upmarket trend in recent years, budget travellers still have some options. Many choose to stay at one of the reasonably priced guesthouses in Samet village, such as Smile House, Barbados or Red Ginger. With a comfy 500 to 1,000 baht room as home base, you can venture out to a different beach every day and return to the village's cheaper food and drink after dark. If you want to join the beach parties, Haad Sai Kaew is a five-minute stroll away.

A bungalow at Ton Had on Ao Lung Dam; it's not much, but it's on the beach.

Backpackers who want to stay at the beach often end up at Ao Hin Khok, a small but fine stretch of white sand wedged between the main road, Haad Sai Kaew and Ao Phai. With rates from 300 to 1,000 baht, the accommodation at Naga and Jep's is nothing to write home about, but the atmosphere is great for making friends while sipping buckets into the wee hours. Just south of Ao Phai, Sea Breeze's basic and laughably colourful bungalows also draw a steady stream of backpackers. Note that all of these places are slightly off the beach.

When it comes to the simple seaside fan bungalows that many travellers daydream about, options are limited on Samet. Pudsa Bungalows on Ao Tubtim has bare bones huts with sea views, but the best options are on the twin beaches of Ao Lung Dam and Ao Thian further south. For as little as 700 baht at Horizons or Ton Had, you can wake up to the sunrise in a rustic bungalow perched on a beachside hill or directly over the sand.

Back in 1994, Peter Robinson, a British Buddhist monk living at a temple in the Northern Thai province of Nakhon Sawan, began looking into how he could help a promising student find enough money to attend university. His actions then planted the seeds of an education trust that has since grown into a multi-million baht scholarship fund supporting thousands of students across Thailand.

Phra Peter Pannapadipo, as he was called then, had been teaching English at a high school in the area when he came across Seckson, a bright student who had passed the examinations to study physics in university but whose rice-farming family could not afford to send him. Phra Peter, dismayed to discover Seckson had instead taken a job at a petrol station, contacted friends in the UK and managed to raise not only enough funds to support Seckson through university, but an excess amount that was placed into a Students’ Education Trust (SET) to be used to help other students.

SET founder and director Peter Robinson enjoys some cheerful downtime with students.

This was the start of the SET Foundation, which this year granted scholarships to 1,350 students in high school, vocational studies and university in an amount totalling 17 million baht. It has operated as a Thai registered charity since 2005.

One thing that sets SET apart from other charities is its long-term approach to the students it supports. “A major plus about SET scholarships is that they aren’t awarded on a semester-by-semester only, or year-by-year only basis. Our scholarships are long-term and can take the student from high school all the way to a Masters,” Peter said.

One of the many Thai students supported by the SET scholarship programme.

Since its modest start the foundation’s scope has also grown. Finding that some students had needs beyond the scholarships, SET launched a student welfare program to help cover other costs including school uniforms, food and transport and remove obstacles that could cause students to miss their classes or lose motivation.

A recent SET newsletter described one sad case of a teenaged boy who was keen to complete his education but faced many hurdles. A college welfare officer visited 17-year-old Tatchapon and his little brother, 13, to assess his suitability for a scholarship, and found they were living alone in a dilapidated house with meagre financial support from their family.

Their mother hadn’t been seen since she and their father had separated five years before, and the father rarely visited. The boys had received only 1,500 baht from their father for the whole year. They could barely afford food much less anything needed for their studies.

SET granted Tatchapon a scholarship to attend auto mechanics school as well as a welfare grant to help with his expenses. Having been touched by Tatchapon’s dedication to care for his brother, SET also bought him a second-hand motorbike, which Tatchapon and his friends restored to top condition to enable him to get to a part-time job. His younger brother was also awarded a scholarship for high school.

With Tatchapon and every scholarship and welfare grant recipient, the SET Foundation has a rigorous assessment process that considers not only the students’ need but also their dedication to study. As Peter describes it, “SET does not give individual scholarships itself. We have 12 main scholarship centres and each has a quota (usually 100) which is topped back up each year as students qualify. Professional welfare officers do the student assessments for us, based on our dual criteria of proven need plus proven diligence.”

Novice monks from the SET-supported Kiriwong school.

Apart from the scholarship programme, SET Foundation is also a major sponsor of Kiriwong, a school for novice monks that had fallen into disarray before it was revived and staffed with new teachers with SET’s help. Monastic schools in Thailand are often viewed as a “dumping ground” for students who have no other options and as such they often lack the care and funds they need to thrive. SET also helps with the care of children at Saengsawan orphanage, and provides scholarships for kids there who qualify.

SET now operates with a board of seven trustees with Peter still on as its active director. In 2003 he made the decision to leave the monkhood to be able to focus fully on SET. “I think fondly of my ten years as a monk but I’ve never regretted my decision to disrobe,” he said.

Kids from Saengsawan orphanage enjoy an outing.

SET is supported by donations from around the world as well as the proceeds from the books Peter Robinson has penned about the monastic life, including his memoir Phra Farang -- An English monk in Thailand, which has been a best-seller in Southeast Asia, and Little Angels, a set of stories about the lives of novice monks in Thailand.

Donations are accepted by bank transfer, by PayPal at the link below, and, for UK and US residents, donations may be made through the SET-UK and Friends of SET-USA support groups that have been set up to ease the donation process. Find more details on SET’s How to Donate web page.

Donations are urgently needed, said Peter, since the SET saw a 20 percent drop in income over the past year, a figure in line with a downward trend worldwide in international giving.

As the SET Foundation approaches its 20th anniversary, it’s also close to giving out its 5,000th scholarship, which will be granted this December and presented by Seckson, the first student to receive a scholarship back in 1994.

He’s certainly come a long way since his days of pumping gas. He went on to earn a PhD in nuclear physics and is better known as Dr Seckson in his current role as a university lecturer.

The SET Foundation
Academic Resource Center, Rajabhat University,
Sawanwithi Road, Amphur Muang, Nakhon Sawan
T: (087) 204 8018
www.thaistudentcharity.org

All photos supplied by The SET Foundation

The week-long Nat Pwe in Taungbyone is the largest spirit festival in Burma (Myanmar), with tens of thousands of people attending the week-long celebrations around the full moon in August. They come from far and wide to pay tribute to two of the widest known Burmese nats, or spirits, hoping to gain good luck, let loose and watch the ceremonies, performed most often by transvestites.

There are 37 original nats in Burmese history, who have usually come into being thanks to gruesome deaths. Throughout the year, nat pwe, or spirit festivals, are held across the country, but the most famous is in Taungbyone, a small village around 20 kilometres north of Mandalay. A nat kadaw, a spirit’s wife or medium, is in charge of the week-long ceremonies.

A nat and his wife.

If you ask the average local Yangoonie what they know about nat pwe, they will immediately call it the "gay festival", as the mediums are typically transgender or transvestites; the festival has become a safe haven for the LGBT crowd to attend, though all are welcomed.

The ceremony to 'wash the brothers'.

The festival includes a large market full of venders hawking food, sweets, T-shirts and other merchandise. Masses of people shuffle and squish their way through tight walkways to pay tribute to the nat brothers for good luck and fortune for their new business, home or other venture.

The banana dance.

The worshipping of the nat demonstrate well how animism has been incorporated into and tolerated by Buddhist culture in Burma.

A nat kadaw at her best.

The ceremonies held nightly have the feeling of a music festival, as different stages host different nat kadaw. Fans and followers go to see their favourite nat perform rituals at their particular stage. Nats take and give offerings from followers, most commonly bananas, money, flowers, fried chicken and liquor.

A seafood stand prepared for the masses.

Many nat kadaw start early in the day, drinking copious amounts of alcohol and smoking giant rolled bundles of something or other as they dance to heavy bass and fast rhythms, belted out using traditional instruments and amplified over speakers. Once in their trance-like state, they are ready to channel the spirits.

How the Nat Kadaws roll

Getting to Taungbyone is easy if you are staying in Mandalay. Truck taxis leave from the clock tower in the west side of the city centre every 20 or 30 minutes -- whenever they are full. Trucks are loaded to the brim -- sitting on top of a crate of pineapples on the roof of the truck is not unusual. This option will cost you 1,000 kyat for a one-way ride. The same deal applies returning. The train does not technically stop at the festival location, while motorbikes taken on a high-traffic day can be very unsafe.

Flowers are a popular offering -- this is where the flower shops are.

On busy festival days -- such as the weekend -- be warned that the normal 45-minute truck taxi ride can extend for hours; we left on a Saturday and it took us over six hours to get back to Mandalay. We would try to arrive during the morning of a week day and depart during a late evening to see the least traffic. Most days and celebrations are similar.

On the open road, rooftop down

Be aware that the crowds are not in the least bit supervised or controlled; it can be dangerous, so please do use your common sense. We would probably suggest children skip this one simply because of the numbers of people; many other nat festivals are celebrated around the country and will be safer.

This is when the road 'cleared'.

Getting as drunk as the nat kadaw is not advised; as you would in any large crowd, look out for pickpockets and keep your bags in front of you.

The older and younger generations gather to witness the ceremonies

The temperature can get very hot, and you may get stuck in the crowds, unable to budge and without any shade, so bring sun protection and carry water bottles.

Last but not least, there is a wide traditional belief we must caution you about: nat may enter not just the mediums, but also the spectators themselves. You've been warned.

Nat Pwe Festival in Taungbyone Myanmar from Christopher Ian Smith on Vimeo.

Despite most of Southeast Asia not being predominantly Christian, Christmas is often seen as just another excuse for a party -- or an expensive gala dinner. Western New Year's Eve too is wildly celebrated across the region, and you can join in the festivities whether you're on a budget or looking to splurge. If you'll be parked somewhere in Southeast Asia this Christmas or New Year's, here are our correspondents' suggestions for what to do.

Yangon, Burma (Myanmar)

If you’re looking to truly feast but are on a budget, Californian-run Cousins Grill has become the source for gluttonous traditional Western holiday menus. Expect to pay 17,000 kyat for a set menu consisting of staples such as turkey and gravy, grilled lamb in rosemary sauce, or vegetarian lasagne, ending with pies and cobbler. The menu is available both Christmas Eve and Christmas Day after 15:00, but make sure to call for reservations.

Burmese goodies to hang on the tree.

For those who play Santa with no price tag too large, The Governor’s Residence has a US$150, six-course set menu that includes everything from oysters and caviar to turkey and lobster. Between 19:00 and 20:00, a choir from the Grace Home Orphanage will be singing Christmas carols in the Governor’s Garden.

Cousins Grill: T (01) 546 633; 28A Kokine Swimming Pool St
The Governor’s Residence: T (01) 229860; www.governorsresidence.com

Bring in the New Year at one of the few Yangon venues that consistently offers good music: Flamingo Bar. From live rock bands to DJ sets, you’ll be able to count on this dive bar-club scene for a New Year party that won't disappoint and won't break the bank.

Looking for something a bit more spectacular? Traders Hotel will host an Outdoor Gazebo DJ Party where US$60 gets you snacks, free flow drinks and gifts for every guest, but they’ll also offer a Magic Circus celebration going for a cool US$160. This will include an “amazing buffet”, more entertainment and a lucky draw on top of access to the Outdoor Gazebo DJ Party.

Flamingo Bar: T (09) 73048544; hoteljapanyangon.com
Traders Hotel: T (01) 242828; www.shangri-la.com/yangon/traders

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

For a Christmas pig out without splashing out, reserve a seat at Aussie XL, where a big plate of turkey or ham with trimmings, followed by pudding, will set you back just US$15.95.

Express present delivery in Phnom Penh.

If Santa's been kind, the five-star Raffles Hotel Le Royal is the ultimate location for festive treats. Gather around a real Christmas tree for a Santa Claus buffet brunch, where US$170 (plus taxes) gets you unlimited Taittinger Rose Champagne and an overwhelming selection of food.

Aussie XL Cafe: T (023) 301 001 www.aussiexl.com
Raffles Hotel Le Royal: T (023) 981 888 www.raffles.com/phnom-penh/offers/festiveoffers/christmas-in-style

Thanks to the climate and a love of fireworks, cheap-seekers can enjoy New Year's Eve in Phnom Penh with very little expenditure. Grab some cans of Angkor beer and head to the riverside, or cross the Chroy Chungvar bridge to get a better view of the explosions while hanging out with the locals on the yet-to-be constructed promenade.

Want to make it swish? The snazzy Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra gets the party started at 18:00, with an international buffet menu at La Coupole, free-flow drinks and a specially flown-in DJ by the pool for US$130 plus taxes.

Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra T:(023) 999200 www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-6526-sofitel-phnom-penh-phokeethra

Siem Reap, Cambodia

Many Siem Reap hotels and restaurants offer affordable Christmas Eve and Day specials, although they'll often include less traditional fare. For most of the trimmings at a good price, Molly Malone’s is serving up a Christmas Day feast for US$28.95 per person.

Earn that lunch with some exploring.

In tinsel – we mean temple – town, top hotels usually experience completely full occupancy over key festive dates; reserving a table in advance is essential if you want to live the high life with the US$105 Christmas Eve buffet at Raffles Grand Hotel D'Angkor.

Molly Malone’s: (063) 963 533 www.mollymalonescambodia.com
Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor: T (063) 963 888 www.raffles.com/siem-reap

While Cambodians have already celebrated Khmer New Year, December 31 is no less of a party when revellers pack themselves into Pub Street to rival the busloads of crowds of Angkor Wat at sunrise. It’s a fun street-party vibe with the competing blaring tunes of Angkor What? and Temple Bar, opposite each other, vying for your attention. Merriment usually spills over into X-Bar in the later hours until dawn. All have free entry.

Many first-class hotels include compulsory gala dinners in their room rates and if you dine out at the more popular or fine-dining restaurants, we recommend booking in advance as it is the peak of the high season.

Bali, Indonesia

On Christmas Eve Bali's International Christian Community (ICC) will have a lantern party, releasing more than 200 lanterns on Double Six Beach in front of Cocoon Beach Club from 17:00. Admission is free.

Bring on the New Year at El Kabron.

Who says Santa doesn't do the tropics? St Nicholas will be gracing King Cole Bar at the St Regis on the Bukit on December 25 from 15:00 to 17:00 while guests can enjoy what sounds like a fine afternoon tea for the price and location -- 350,000 rupiah net.

ICC: T (0878) 6158 7283 iccbali.com
St Regis: T (0361) 847 8111 www.stregisbali.com/en/christmas-program-in-bali

When it comes to ringing in the New Year in a memorable setting without it costing the earth, why not go for a Spanish flavouring for the last sunset of the year at the fantabulously set El Kabron on the Bukit Peninsula. Their New Year's dinner runs from 20:00 to midnight and you'll be ideally placed to see the sun sink into the ocean. Dinner costs 425,000 rupiah ++. Reservations essential.

For something upmarket, Seminyak's Kudeta will be hosting a Roaring Twenties party. It will feature DJ Pete Gooding and Jim Breese and the dress code is 1920s -- yes, they really do mean flapper dresses, suits and suspenders ... you've got those in your backpack right? Pre-sale comes in at 850,000 rupiah or it's 950,000 rupiah on the night.

El Kabron: T (0361) 780 3416 www.elkabron.com
Kudeta: T (0361) 736 969 www.kudeta.net

Langkawi, Malaysia

A sure bet for a cheapie Christmas feast Western-style is Mangoes Bar and Grill, which serves up a buffet to write home about. With barbecue chicken, roast turkey and ham taking centre stage to a massive selection of sides and desserts, inclusive of free flow beer, wine and soft drinks, the 110 ringgit price tag per person is a bargain -- reservations are a must.

Looking for Santa over Langkawi.

But for a little tropical luxury, the Meritus Pelangi Beach Resort takes the cake this year. Located front and centre of a gorgeous sunset and the sandy-white beach of Pantai Cenang, they offer a Christmas Eve gala buffet with rack of lamb and barbecue seafood among the offerings, plus a live band showing for 450 ringgit per person. On the festive day itself they offer a slightly more affordable Christmas brunch for 78 ringgit per person and a Christmas Day barbecue dinner for 148 ringgit per person.

Mangoes: T (017) 589 8117 mangoeslangkawi.webs.com
Meritus Pelangi Beach Resort: T (04) 952 8888 ext. 6930 www.meritushotels.com/en/hotelinformation/meritus-pelangi-beach-resort-spa-langkawi/about

With the seafront of Pantai Cenang always being THE place to be on New Year’s Eve, even the most budget-minded can easily stash their duty-free take away and plonk themselves on the sands to catch the annual fireworks or impromptu busking and fire twirling acts. But reggae fans might be keen to concentrate their evening agenda at recently relocated Babylon Matlounge, now sharing beachfront space with Sugar on Pantai Tengah at the southern end of Jalan Pantai Cenang. Toe tapping commences around their sunset happy hour about 19:00ish.

Looking for more bells and whistles and maybe even some cheesy party favours? Shimmy on down to Retro Night at Meritus Pelangi Beach Resort where their Cba Restaurant and Bar is starting their countdown at 19:00 with a 550 ringgit per person extravaganza -- whole roasted lamb and barbecue seafood is on offer while a live band and DJ pump out the top tunes from yesteryear.

Babylon X Sugar: T(04)955 3928 (04)955 1010 https://www.facebook.com/BabylonMatLounge
Meritus Pelangi Beach Resort: T (04) 952 8888 ext. 6930 http://www.meritushotels.com/en/hotelinformation/meritus-pelangi-beach-resort-spa-langkawi/about

Singapore

After a stroll enjoying Christmas by the Singapore River and viewing the festive decorations, Christmas market offerings or even doing a Christmas Segway tour, head to the historic Fullerton's Jade restaurant for their dinner buffet, a steal at $58 given that there are close to 40 Chinese dishes to choose from.

Easy to empty your wallet via Singapore's Silly Season.

For splurgers who wish to live it ‘up’ (literally!) for a special Christmas with that special someone, the Singapore Flyer offers a Christmas Sky Dining experience at $329++ per couple in a shared capsule that includes traditional Yuletide dishes like roast turkey and a log cake, all to be savoured while enjoying a night view of the Singapore skyline on board the world’s largest observation wheel.

Christmas by the river: singapore-river.com/christmas
Jade Restaurant: www.fullertonhotel.com/dining/diningCategories_2-en.html
Singapore Flyer: www.singaporeflyer.com/promotions/festive-packages

New Year's Eve revellers on a budget can head to the Esplanade and Marina Bay waterfront areas for the annual countdown and watch the skyline light up with a fireworks display at midnight. The Esplanade will feature music from local acts, while the Promontory@Marina Bay will host international DJs and regional bands, playing music for over seven hours so you can dance the night and 2013 away and see Singaporeans out partying in full force.

Those in the mood to splash out can head to Mount Faber for New Year’s Eve in a cable car ($338++ a couple) with bubbly, or if there are more of you, get a Champagne Countdown Cabin for six ($578 nett). For even more luxury, there’s a Swarovski-encrusted VIP Jewelled Countdown cabin for four ($888 nett). To get both the luxury of privacy and a bird’s eye view where you’ll be able to glimpse some fireworks from the various countdowns -- it might just be worth the price.

Marina Bay Countdown: www.marinabaycountdown.sg
Mount Faber cable car: www.mountfaber.com.sg

Bangkok, Thailand

Most budget travellers settle on an 80 baht Christmas dinner of Khao San Road pad Thai and Chang beer, but a number of Sukhumvit pubs offer an affordable taste of yuletide love. Bully's, Bourbon Street and The Londoner each do solid buffets of turkey and all of the trimmings at around the 1,000 baht per head price point.

Bangkok: You'll need to imagine the fireworks.

At the higher end, splurge on a five-course set dinner for 5,300 baht per person on Vertigo's 61st floor terrace.

If you'd like to celebrate the religious side of Christmas, the multi-denominational International Church of Bangkok is one of many churches planning Christmas services.

Bully's Pub: (02) 656 4609 www.bullysbangkok.com
Bourbon Street Bangkok: (02) 381 6801-3 www.bourbonstbkk.com
The Londoner: (02) 261 0238 www.the-londoner.com
Vertigo: (02) 679 1200 www.banyantree.com/en/bangkok/
International Church of Bangkok: (02) 258 5821

For New Year's Eve, those on a tight budget can join the wild street party along Khao San Road, while the nightclubs of RCA and Sukhumvit 11 are good midrange bets for a thumping night out. Families might head for the free countdown celebrations at Central World Plaza or Asiatique's riverside boardwalk, both of which culminate at midnight with extravagant fireworks displays. Altitude at the Imperial Queen's Park Hotel will throw an all-out rooftop bash starting at 1,200 baht per head, and So Bangkok's more refined rooftop party includes free-flow Chandon Brut for its 3,900 baht price tag.

High-rollers can part with 20,000++ baht per person at the lavish New Year's dinner parties held by Lebua and Mandarin Oriental among others. If you're after a celebration featuring traditionally Thai activities, hundreds of floating fire lanterns will take to the skies over Sanam Luang, and a candlelight procession is planned for Wat Saket's Golden Mount.

Altitude at the Imperial Queen's Park Hotel: (02) 261 9000 www.newyearseveinbangkok.com
So Bangkok: (02) 624 0000 www.sofitel-so-bangkok.com
Lebua State Tower: (02) 624 9999 www.lebua.com/state-tower
Mandarin Oriental: (02) 659 9000 www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok

Chiang Mai

Those seeking a hearty, traditional, Christmas meal, should head to Bake & Bite, which will be serving a special, themed menu - including classics such as roast turkey and gingerbread cookies– from 2-7pm on December 25. Judging by how delicious their regular menu is, we’re counting the days before we treat ourselves to their Christmas pies. Alternatively, Anchan vegetarian restaurant will be offering a five course Christmas Eve meal complete with fruitcake made with mulled wine and lime and honey glazed potatoes for 550 baht per person. If this sounds delicious, but a little lacking in the meat department, head to Dhara Dhevi resort, which will have a welcome cocktail, followed by a lavish, international buffet to the soundtrack of live Christmas carolers and a marching band, all for 4,500 Baht a person (5,700 with wine and beer).

Anchan Vegetarian: T: (083) 581 1689 https://www.facebook.com/events/261575890661426/
Bake & Bite: T: (053) 249 689
Dhara Dhevi: T: (053) 888 888 http://www.dharadhevi.com

As far as New Year’s Eve is concerned, our all out choice would the exquisite buffet at Shangri-La hotel, which at 14,880 baht per person, includes unlimited Moet Chandon champagne. Surely, it’s an extravagant, if pricey way to greet 2014. A much more reasonable 2,880 will get you just the food, but, if you ask us, we’d rather ring in the new year with a cold Leo to the tune of live music at the Northgate Jazz Co-op, or Warm-Up Cafe.

Northgate Jazz Co-op: https://www.facebook.com/northgate.jazzcoop
Shangri-La: T: (053) 253 888 http://www.shangri-la.com/en/chiangmai/shangrila/
Warm-Up Cafe: https://www.facebook.com/warmupcafe1999

Ko Samui, Thailand

Those watching their baht can head to one of the many expat bars and eateries on the island putting on traditional Christmas roast lunches. Premier Sports Bar in Bang Rak offers a full roast lunch with unlimited beer for a limited period at 1,400 baht per person. Or if you're quick, you can order all the usual Christmas fare from Mrs Moffet’s Kitchen as well as Fabulous Things for delivery to your resort or villa – so perhaps a Christmas picnic on the beach is in order.

Samui: Pick a beach, put your feet up.

If you’d prefer a fancy spread, just about every hotel on the island will be putting on a set menu or buffet, both for Christmas Eve as well as lunch on the day. If you’re into a DJ and party vibe for Christmas, Beach Republic in Lamai is offering a free flow canapes and cocktails for Christmas Eve, for 1,500 baht, as well as a fancy buffet lunch at 2,450 baht per person.

Premier Bar: www.premierbarsamui.com
Mrs Moffet’s Kitchen: https://www.facebook.com/MrsMoffettsKitchen
Fabulous Things: https://www.facebook.com/FabulousThingsSamui
Beach Republic: http://www.beachrepublic.com/holidays_2013.html

It’s hard to escape New Year’s Eve on Samui, so even those on a budget can easily join in the festivities. Wherever you are, from around 23:00 until well past pumpkin hour, astronomical numbers of fireworks will be going off everywhere, and you’ll feel as though you’re in the opening scene of a Disney movie. So if you’re looking to celebrate on the cheap, grab your own bottle of bubbles or pack of beers (it won't be frowned upon) and head to the nearest busy beach, particularly Chaweng, Lamai of Bophut’s Fisherman’s Village.

You can enjoy the evening at the opposite end of the budget scale by heading out for an exclusive party at beachfront clubs such as Nikki Beach (Lipa Noi), or Beach Republic in Lamai. Beach Republic is charging 8,250 baht for a night of DJs, fire shows, fireworks, free-flow alcohol and a fancy dinner buffet.

Beach Republic: http://www.beachrepublic.com/holidays_2013.html

Ko Pha Ngan, Thailand

Why not try a Christmas picnic on one of Ko Pha Ngan’s many white-sand beaches? Head to the newly-opened Big C, a well-stocked grocery store in Baan Tai, and pick up all the take-away goodies you need for the perfect meal. Fancy plastic cups and paper dishes can be purchased from nearby Big A, closer to Thong Sala town. Find your perfect picnic locale here.

Does Santa need to bring you a hammock?

For a real Christmas treat with a view, head to one of the island’s best restaurants, Peppercorn, for Christmas Eve or Day. Book in advance -- they marinate and slow-cook the meals, so they need lots of notice. Located at the top of a hill overlooking the stunning Haad Salad bay, the view here can’t be beat.

Peppercorn: T (087) 896 4363, www.peppercornphangan.com

The place to be for New Year's Eve on Ko Pha Ngan is Haad Rin beach, where the festivities begin early with fireworks and the beach party is the biggest of the year. Cheap food is available from roadside stands, and of course, there are buckets galore. If a glass of champagne is more your thing, some Ko Pha Ngan restaurants put on special Christmas spreads. Loyfa Natural Resort does a gala dinner at 1,500 baht per person, while the higher-end resorts on Thong Nai Pan Noi offer even more gourmet delights to ring in the new year. Luna Restaurant is offering a four-course New Year's Eve dinner for 980 baht, which includes a glass of sparkling wine.

Loyfa Natural Resort: www.loyfa-natural-resort.com/
Luna restaurant: T (077) 445 035 luna-restaurant-phangan.com/

Phuket, Thailand

One of Phuket’s best-value festive meals is at the Shanti Lodge guesthouse in Chalong. Its Christmas Eve Dinner barbecue buffet with cold mulled wine, Texas-style spare ribs, tofu steaks, corn on the cob and Caesar salad is priced at a budget-friendly 450 baht for adults, 200 baht for children aged six to 12 and free for kids five and under.

Phuket: Your presents are on the yacht.

At the decadent end of the scale is The Boathouse Wine & Grill, which is putting on a Christmas Eve gala dinner with cocktails in the sunset lounge, a buffet dinner, a lantern release on the beach and a visit by Santa for the kids. Dinner is priced at 4,500++ baht per person and half-price for kids under 12.

Shanti Lodge Phuket T (076) 280233 www.shantilodge.com/page/shanti-phuket
The Boathouse T 076 330015 www.boathousephuket.com

Budget-minded New Year’s Eve revellers on Phuket will want to head down to the sands of Karon beach, which will be home to two nights of dance music on December 30 and 31 for the Phuket Electronic Music and Dance Festival 2014, with free entry for all. For a more swanky affair, check out Re Ka Ta beach club on Kata beach, which will have three choices for New Year’s eve partygoers. Those who join just the poolside lounge party with a tapas menu pay 2,500++ baht per person. To indulge in the five-course dinner plus the party you’ll be shelling out 6,000++ baht per person, or for a big splurge join the Champagne Deck too and pay 14,500++ baht per couple including a bottle of champagne, oysters, chilled seafood and tapas.

Re Ka Ta T: (076) 330015 www.rekataphuket.com

Hanoi, Vietnam

Your best option for a budget seasonal feed, served up with plenty of Christmas cheer, is Hanoi Backpacker’s Hostel on Ma May, where 600,000 VND gets you a three-course roast dinner with free-flow beer, sangria, vodka and rum. At the other end of the scale, check out Le Beaulieu restaurant at the Sofitel Metropole Legend Hotel, which is serving up a Christmas brunch for 2,500,000 VND, or 3,900,000 VND including free-flow champagne.

Hanoi: Ideal for presents for the person who has everything ... else.

Hanoi Backpacker’s Hostel: www.vietnambackpackershostel.com
Sofitel Metropole Legend Hotel: T (04) 3826 6919 ext. 8215 www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-1555-sofitel-legend-metropole-hanoi/index.shtml

The bars in Old Quarter have yet to announce specific plans for New Year’s Eve, though we’re willing to bet there will be something to amuse those looking for a lively night out. But if you want to see the New Year in among the masses, head to the Opera House, where Heineken sponsors an annual countdown which attracts thousands of mostly Vietnamese. It's free, unless you want beer.

For a fancy night out, we like the sound of the Intercontinental Hotel’s Moet and Chandon Countdown, where 1,505,000 VND gets you free-flow champagne, canapes and a live DJ on the Milan Saigon terrace. Add dinner on beforehand in Cafe du Lac restaurant if you want more than just canapés.

Intercontinental: T (04) 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com/hanoi

Hoi An, Vietnam

To have yourself a merry little Christmas on a tight budget in Hoi An, pop yourself down to 3Dragons for a Western festive spread and many happy hours of fabulous frivolous fun. For 400,000 VND you'll tuck into a set menu including turkey, beef, lamb, pork belly and all the trimmings from 14:00 till really rather late.

Hoi An: An Bang Beach - ideal for a last beach walk of the year.

For the jet setters however there really is only one place to go: the Intercontinental Christmas day brunch (book a pod) for the most flamboyantly decadent spoil -- it'll set you back 1,080,000 VND or 1,680,000 VND with free-flow champagne.

3Dragons: T (0127) 5050 400
Intercontinental: T (0511) 393 8888 www.intercontinental.com

For the biggest party in the Hoi An hood this New Year, grab yourself a bean bag on the beach at the Banyan Bar, An Bang Beach where you will be serenaded by international D.J’s and never ending rounds of free shots. For a rather more opulent spread, Green Mango are putting on a veritable feast - tuna, lobster, turkey and sparkles along with one of the best balcony spots to watch the fireworks ring in the new year over the old town. 950,000VND.

Banyan www.facebook.com/groups/105512802875963
Green Mango: T (0510) 392 9918 greenmango.vn/Page/103.aspx

Saigon, Vietnam

Christmas dinner in Saigon doesn't have to break the bank. At Scott and Binh's in District 7 you can get a proper festive dinner of turkey or ham with all the fixings for just 375,000 VND. Christmas dinner in Saigon can be a pricey affair and if price is of no concern, head to one of the city's five-star hotels for a treat. At the Park Hyatt, for instance, 2,079,000 VND will get you a dinner buffet along with free-flow champagne.

Christmas is a hit in Saigon.

Scott and Binh's: T (09) 4890 1465 www.facebook.com/scottandbinhs
Park Hyatt: T (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com/en/hotel/home.html

If you're staying up for the fireworks you'll need a good view of the riverfront in District 1. Those on a budget will be on foot, as most major downtown streets are closed to vehicles, and need to muscle through the crowds to get to a good spot on Ton Duc Thang.

If you have some coin to throw around, head to one of the rooftop celebrations. At the Sofitel, 3,000,000 VND will get you great views and an all-you-can-eat and drink buffet next to the rooftop pool.

Sofitel Saigon: T (08) 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-2077-sofitel-saigon-plaza/index.shtml

This past Sunday, Thailand's capital Bangkok saw some of its biggest political demonstrations since anti-government protesters took to the streets two months ago. The latest round in a seven-year-long political saga has triggered several isolated incidents of violence and caused major traffic congestion. At this point, we would not cancel a trip to Thailand, or even to Bangkok, but it's wise to stay informed.

What's this all about?

In 2006, billionaire-turned-prime-minister Thaksin Shinawatra was accused of various crimes of corruption that ranged from vote buying to illegal land dealings. Massive protests by the Democrat Party-led "yellow shirt" camp, which mainly consists of middle to upper class Thais from Bangkok and the wealthy southern region, spurred a bloodless military coup that ousted Thaksin from power. He now lives in exile to avoid charges that he claims are politically motivated.

Skytrain queues reach an all time high Sunday, December 22.

When Thaksin's brother-in-law was then elected prime minister in 2008, the yellow shirts toppled the government again by seizing both of Bangkok's international airports for eight days. Made up of mainly working class Thais from the rural north and northeast, Thaksin's "red shirt" supporters responded to a subsequent undemocratically-elected Democrat government by staging mass protests in Bangkok that resulted in a police crackdown and 90 deaths in 2010.

Later that year, fresh elections resulted in Thaksin's sister, Yingluck Shinawatra, becoming Thailand's first-ever female prime minister. She has managed to maintain a precarious calm over the last two years, but a recently proposed bill that would have potentially granted amnesty to Thaksin sparked elements of the former yellow shirt movement back into action.

Whistle if you don't love democracy.

While they've traded in the old yellow shirts for patriotic red, white and blue, the current protesters' message is the same -- boot the entire "Shinawatra regime" from power forever. Protest leader Suthep Thaugsuban's calls for sweeping political reforms and an end to corruption have rallied thousands to join the movement, but his suggestion of an ambiguously-defined "People's Council" to institute reforms has been stamped as undemocratic by both the opposition and many neutral critics.

When Yingluck dissolved parliament and scheduled an election for February 2, the Democrats announced that they will boycott it. While another coup is unlikely, the military's top brass have hinted at postponing the election and holding some sort of neutral reformation meetings that could potentially calm things down. If the election is not postponed, it's likely that protests will increase in size and frequency in the coming weeks.

What's the situation on the ground?

The situation escalated in late November when brazen protesters scuffled with riot police armed with tear gas and rubber bullets outside Government House and several key ministries. On December 1, five people were killed at Ramkamhaeng University in Bangkok's eastern suburbs during clashes between students and government supporters who were staging their own rally in a nearby stadium. Apart from these and a handful of other isolated incidents, the protests have remained peaceful.

Sharper than some.

Daily rallies have continued at the main Democracy Monument protest site, and December 22 was the second Sunday in three weeks that saw much larger rallies spread across the city. Huge gatherings took place at the intersection of Sukhumvit and Asok roads, Silom Road and Lumpini Park, Victory Monument, Wongwian Yai in Thonburi and the Siam Square / National Stadium area.

The scenes were more festive than angry, with boisterous demonstrators blowing whistles and waving flags while taking periodic breaks to enjoy an ice cream or foot massage. But the rallies clogged major roads and we felt for the travellers trying to navigate their suitcases through the noisy masses. Note that, apart from Democracy Monument, these areas have only seen the occasional rally on particularly big days. Most of the time, it's business as usual in most of the city, though that could change as the election looms.

What does this mean for travellers?

Though several countries have issued travel warnings in relation to the protests, Bangkok is peaceful for the most part and the rest of the country has remained unaffected. During larger rallies, we strongly suggest using the BTS sky train, MRT subway, Chao Phraya river ferries and canal boats, all of which have continued to operate normally. If you find yourself stuck in a rally, motorbike taxis are usually around to whisk you away in a hurry. Long-distance buses, trains and flights have been unaffected.

While reports suggest that some travellers are cancelling their trips to Thailand altogether, it seems that many are only opting to skip Bangkok. In Chiang Mai, Kanchanaburi, all of the islands and elsewhere, it's business as usual.

Frightening protester selfies at Democracy Monument.

What if I don't want to miss Bangkok?

By all means, stick around. The protesters are not targeting foreigners in any way, and the vast majority of the city is as safe as ever. For now, protesters have stopped attempting to occupy government ministries and are generally sticking to more pre-defined plans, making the situation more predictable than it previously was. Of course, this does not mean that it won't change.

At present, the only place that you should absolutely avoid is Government House. Catching a taxi to Khao San Road can be a bit more challenging than normal, but virtually no violence has been reported at nearby Democracy Monument. The police have been relatively restrained and Yingluck seems committed to a non-aggressive approach. Your best bet is to keep an eye on the Travelfish Facebook page and the following local media outlets for the most up-to-date info:

The Bangkok Post
Bangkok Pundit
Newley Purnell
Richard Barrow

Mainland Thai coastal beaches don't usually enjoy the hype of their offshore neighbours with names like Samet, Phi Phi and Samui. Yet for a comfortable and convenient, if touristy beach holiday, the Andaman coastal town of Khao Lak has a definite lure. It boasts vast stretches of golden sand, a wide range of accommodation, a family-friendly atmosphere and some fabulous day trips. Even if you only have five days, you can make the most of them here.

Day 1: Do nothing at all
So you've spent many hours on planes and finally you can feel that fine sand between your toes and Andaman Sea breeze through your hair. This is what you came for. Give yourself permission to do nothing more than sit on a beach chair while drinking coconuts (or coconut cocktails) between leisurely splashes in the surf. When the sun sinks low, settle into a beach restaurant for a decadent seafood barbecue. Splash out for that fresh jumbo shrimp -- you deserve it.

The high season hordes at Bang Niang beach.

Day 2: Explore the surrounding beaches and sights
With well-maintained, not-so-busy beachfront roads to go with lanes that ramble through charming villages and countryside, the Khao Lak area is best explored by motorbike. Between extended lounges on the quiet beaches of Bang Niang, Khuk Khak, Pakarang and Bang Sak, make stops at low-key attractions like a small museum displaying local photos and stories from the 2004 tsunami, and a butterfly and orchid garden run by a convivial Norwegian chap. You might also hike to one of Lamru Khao Lak National Park's isolated beaches and jungle-clad waterfalls.

Plenty of pretty things in Khao Lak.

When you reach Khuk Khak, take a timeout for a drink at the friendly beach shack known as Lek Bar; just ring the bell and they'll send a rowboat to carry you across the saltwater stream that separates this beach bum paradise from the road. Head further north to Pakarang and Bang Sak to find out what it's like to share a full kilometre of wide beachfront with nothing but the sand crabs. Finish the day with a stop at the Bang Niang night market to enjoy a fried roti and shop for beach chairs, sarongs and Bob Marley t-shirts.

Hmm, is that a baby croc perched on the top left corner?

Day 3: Day trip to Ao Phang Nga
There's a reason why every travel office and resort in Khao Lak advertises day tours to nearby Phang Nga Bay: it really is that magnificent. Set out in the wee morning hours and embark on a longtail boat cruise as the sun's first rays peek over dramatic karst cliffs. Once you have the compulsory stop at James Bond's hideout under your belt, explore sea caves by kayak, kick the football around at Ko Panyi fishing village's floating pitch, or drift silently through the mangroves as kingfishers and blue-winged leafbirds snack on the abundant marine life.

Another angelic Ao Phangnga morning.

Day 4: Explore further north
Hop back on the motorbikes and roll up the scenic coastal road until you reach Baan Nam Khem. One of the areas hardest hit by the 2004 tsunami, this enchanting little village is home to a moving tsunami memorial with a long wall of plaques dedicated to the individuals who were lost, a golden seated Buddha that gazes inland from the shore, and several large fishing vessels that were swept inland by the waves. While it's the right place to reflect on that tragic event, Baan Nam Khem is also an opportunity to experience the relaxed lifestyle of a southern Thai fishing community.

A moment to reflect in Baan Nam Khem.

From Baan Nam Khem, a five-minute ferry can take you and your motorbike to a string of remote beaches on the oft-overlooked island of Ko Kho Khao. If you'd prefer a taste of culture, cruise south along the river to the one-time tin-mining centre and now sleepy hamlet of Sri Takua Pa. Friendly locals still produce traditional foods and tin crafts on narrow streets punctuated by Chinese lanterns, ancient temples and dilapidated but attractive Sino-Portuguese architecture.

Tired of the beach? Sri Takua Pa is your cure.

Day 5: Day trip to the Similans
One reason why many travellers opt for islands over coastal beaches like Khao Lak is that the latter doesn't quite boast the picture-perfect aquamarine water and powdery white sand of, say, Ko Lipe. Best visited from Khao Lak, however, the luscious protected Similan islands allow you to have your flippers and use them too.

Ko Similan -- is that what you were daydreaming about?

A speedboat tour will whiz you around these nine tiny islands with sublime snorkelling and beaches that can rival any on earth. After you soak up the tremendous views from Donald Duck rock, hop back in the crystal clear water and make friends with the resident sea turtles.

With all that Khao Lak has to offer, don't be surprised if this trip becomes the first of many. Our only advice for next time: Make it two weeks.

When you’re travelling in Malaysia on a budget, every last ringgit counts. Penang makes a great budget destination as there's plenty of choice when it comes to affordable accommodation, a wide availability of excellent but cheap food, and fantastic culture, architecture and plenty of things to do that won’t cost you a penny. It's perfectly possible to get by on 50 ringgit a day, with a bit of change even left over for an evening beer.

Let’s start with accommodation, since this is going to take a significant chunk of your budget: up to 50 percent, in fact. Despite a recent mushrooming of new boutique-style flashpacker hostels, which charge flashier-than-average prices, there are still plenty of trusty, more established digs that are comfortable yet affordable.

Turtle Beach, Penang. Don't miss out on the island's highlights just because you're on a budget.

You should have no trouble finding a dorm bed plus breakfast for 25 ringgit a night, which tends to be the going rate for standard hostels in Georgetown. Some even throw in air-conditioning for this price, including Red Inn Heritage Guest House and Muntri House, both of which are located on – or just off – trendy Lebuh Muntri. Our pick of the bunch, for simple but stylish air-conditioned dorms at the above price, is Guest Inn Muntri, which is every bit as good as some of the more expensive places.

Love Lane Inn: it may not be luxurious, but its prices are hard to beat.

However, for the best value rock bottom prices, check out Love Lane Inn. This is no-nonsense, no-frills accommodation, where a bed in a very basic dorm (fan only, no towels) will cost you 13 ringgit, including a simple breakfast of tea/coffee and toast. It is nothing to get excited about, but staying here will only cost you a quarter of your 50 ringgit budget, which is a definite plus.

• Read more about the best places to stay in Georgetown across all budgets.

After filling up on breakfast at your hostel, you don’t need to spend very much on food to keep your hunger locked up until dinner. If you plan to stay in Georgetown over lunchtime, you can find excellent roadside stalls serving up Penang specialities such as char kway teow and won ton mee for between three and five ringgit. Lebuh Chulia has plenty of options, especially near the junctions of Lebuh Carnarvon and Jalan Pintal Tali, or seek out the excellent Tiger Char Kway Teow stall on the corner of Lebuh Bishop and Lebuh King. Alternatively, walk over to the Sri Weld Hawker Centre, on Lebuh Pantai (opposite the junction with Lebuh Bishop) for a wider choice of dishes, most for under five ringgit.

Stock up on delicious snacks at one of Little India's street stalls.

If you are going out of Georgetown for the day, Little India is a great place to pick up picnic lunch snacks such as samosa, bhaji, vadai and pakora for between 50 sen and one ringgit a piece. Or look out for the ubiquitous Penang curry puffs: a peculiar but delicious fusion of Chinese, Indian and British cuisine which consists of flaky pastry filled with potato, pumpkin and other vegetables (meat versions are also sometimes available) cooked together with curry and five spice. These are normally a ringgit a piece or, for between one and two ringgit, most Chinese cafes also serve steamed pao buns, stuffed with any manner of fillings including curried chicken, barbecued pork and sweet bean paste.

A decent lunch needn’t cost you much more than five ringgit, and to keep yourself hydrated during the day you can pick up cool litre bottles of water from the 7-eleven on the corner of Lebuh Chulia and Love Lane for two to three ringgit.

Penang's clan jetties are fascinating and free to visit.

Having sorted out bed, breakfast and lunch, the chances are that you will also want to see something of Penang, and this is possible without spending very much at all -- if anything. Wandering the atmospheric streets of Georgetown, exploring the clan houses, temples, mosques and jetties, or soaking up the sights and sounds of Little India are enough to keep you occupied for at least a day.

• Read more about free things to do on Penang.

If you fancy getting out of the city to enjoy trekking through the National Park to the island’s best beaches, or perhaps walking up Penang Hill, it will only cost you the price of the return bus ride and for most destinations on the island this will come to under five ringgit. There are plenty of things to do for free in Penang and you don’t need to miss out on any of the island’s highlights just because you’re on a budget.

The banana leaf meals at Sri Ananda are perfect for filling up if you are on a budget.

Depending on how much you have spent on accommodation, lunch and buses, you should still have between 15 and 20 ringgit in your pocket. Our recommendation is to head to Red Garden Hawker Centre for a wide variety of Chinese and Malay dishes for under five ringgit. Or how about filling up on curry in Little India: Sri Ananda Bahwan at 55 and 66 Lebuh Penang (two branches, the latter of which is vegetarian) are the most popular Indian restaurants in Georgetown, where a banana leaf heaped with rice and three different vegetarian curries will cost you about six ringgit.

Antarabangsa, Penang's best -- and cheapest -- dive bar.

You may have discounted alcohol entirely, but don’t despair! Those final few ringgit are enough to buy you a can of lager -- with change left over -- at one of Georgetown’s most characterful establishments, Antarabangsa, just around the corner from Love Lane at 21 Lorong Stewart. Single cans of Skol or Tiger are four to five ringgit, or you can buy three for 10 ringgit, and while comfort is perhaps not high on the agenda here, you will meet a fascinating mix of patrons, both local and foreign. Budget beer it may be, but at these prices, you can’t really go wrong.

"About one hour," says our guide, navigator and companion over the last three days, Aung Myu Htoo. This time, he blurts it out with a half-cocked smile, knowing that his rubbery time estimates have become a bit of a running joke for our group of seven as we walk from Kalaw to to the base of Inle Lake in Shan State, Northern Burma (Myanmar).

Aung Myu Htoo has only been on the job, in the employ of co-founder Mr Robin of Golden Lily Trekking, for six months, but his enthusiasm -- both for the environment we're tramping through and the English language -- shows considerable promise. Before he worked with Robin he'd been a soldier in the government's army. For 12 long years from the age of 16 he'd trained and soldiered and yet found time to marry, have two daughters and get educated: Dip C.S, DAA, B.A.(Geo;) it reads on his personal calling card.

Paddy fields and stuff.

It's the last qualification, the geography, that best evidences itself during our trek. On the second day, ensnarled by torrential rain and quite wary of a flash flood, he still pauses to pluck some random herb from the surrounds and begins to explain to me its medicinal advantages only to have me blurt out, "I don't care -- it's pissing down rain!"

At least five three-day trekking routes meander between Kalaw and Inle Lake, but the one we're tackling is 61 kilometres in length -- 21 kilometres the first day, 23 the second and 17 the third. In broad strokes, we start walking at 08:00, have a couple of tea breaks plus an hour for lunch (that is, eat for 30 minutes then nap for 30) and finish around the 17:00 mark. When Robin mentioned the 61 kilometres and the seven to eight hours a day of walking I have to admit I didn't pay much attention, but five kilometres in, the 61 kilometres firmed up in my mind as, well, a bloody long way.

Jungle welcoming committee.

Everywhere we rest we have tea. On the first day, late morning, we emerge from the forest to be greeted with a sprawling mountain scene with tea collapsing down the slopes to a deep valley. We walk along a ridge, its slope spotted in tea bushes, here and there being tended to by farmers. We follow the trail towards a hilltop village where we break for lunch and on the final stretch we pass locals packing up fist-sized oranges. "To Yangon," says our guide.

While the trekking routes between Kalaw and Inle were pioneered by one of Robin's competitors, the 72-year-old Sam of Sam's Trekking, Robin has been running his own treks in the area for more than 20 years. Despite being recommended to go on a tour with Robin, we'd actually visited Sam's trekking kiosk on the main road of Kalaw and, after finding the consultation a bit perfunctory, headed over to Robin's for a second opinion and looked no further.

Robin of Golden Lily Trekking.

A Sikh, Robin's forebears came to Burma with the British in 1880 and a generation later his father was driving Chevrolet trucks for the British during World War Two. Following in his father's footsteps, Robin also drove Burma's dilapidated roads and by the time they sold the business, Robin had been driving for 30 years and they had a fleet of some 18 trucks.

Robin's guesthouse, named Golden Lily, is one of only two remaining "true" guesthouses in Kalaw. It's a typical Burmese guesthouse, cheap and with some rooms decidedly crappy (go for an upstairs room if you can!). The real attraction, anyway, is the trekking.

Some walking will be required.

"Trekking" is a bit of a misnomer as this is Kalaw, not Nepal. If you possess a modicum of fitness you'll be able to do it. You may well swear now and then, stub a toe, catch a cobweb and perhaps slip in the mud, but the rewards, be it the scenery, the simple village life or, well, just the pleasure of dropping back from the group and listening to the birds and distant village voices carried to you by the wind, more than compensate.

The afternoon stretch on day one has our trail at times passing through lovely rice field valleys and other times along train tracks. Thanks to the British a slow and very bouncy rail line snakes from Thazi in the west to Shwenyaung (for Nyaung Shwe and Inle Lake) in the east. We stand aside to let a train rock past -- a few days later I take the same train, taking in much of the same scenery I walked a few days earlier.

Lunch at a hilltop village sounds great -- until you have to climb the hill.

In mid afternoon, we break to visit a medicine man who shows off his thumb sized balls of home-made malaria medication (they taste like dirt) before pressing on through brilliant canola fields to our beds for the night in a village homestay. Lodgings are basic, but clean and adequate. Most importantly, they have cold beer and a generous meal fills our bellies. Despite the thin mattress I sleep like the dead.

Our group is seven: two Belgian guys, two Austrian women, two French women and me the lone representative of Antipodea -- an Australian. It's a well travelled -- and older -- squad than I'd expected and once we get going and we build a rapport over blisters while the travel chat veers from Guatemala and Flores to the Inca Trail and Everest Base Camp.

Express trekking.

I'm the only one of the group to have visited Burma previously and some of the others, who have visited other Southeast Asian countries, note that trekking in Burma "feels like Thailand 20 years ago". To a point this is true -- we quite literally walk out of Kalaw and to the boat pier at Inle Lake. Rare would be a trek out of a commercial centre in Thailand or Laos that doesn't first involve a tuk tuk or pick-up ride out to the beginning of an "untouched area".

But the differences don't stop there. Most strikingly, and certainly against my expectations, the villages we visit are far more affluent than their counterparts in Laos or Thailand. While some wooden houses remain, most are cinderblock -- some with solar power and while no TV antennas are in evidence, the overall feel is of more wealth. These are "minority villages" be they Pa-oh, Palaung or Taungyoe, but they make up Shan State's populace in a way that the Akha, Hmong and Lisa don't in Thailand -- they're citizens for starters -- and it shows.

Do not buy your malaria medication off this man.

Before the Pa-oh signed a cease fire with the junta in the early 1990s, opium was a cash crop and, as with similar regions in Thailand, the cash crop replacement has been obvious. Staples in the eradication crew's handbook -- cabbage, corn, dry rice, and canola have all replaced the opium of years before. The side effect was that you need to grow an awful lot more cabbage than opium to retain the same bottom line and this has had catastrophic effects on forest cover -- at least the Brits were selective!

The second day has far less forest and far more farmland. I'm very thankful for my hat as the sun beats down on us trudging through broad farms and up and down over gently rolling hills. Where forests would have once stood, today beautiful flowers litter the way and vegetable crops -- eggplant, potato and all manner of green leafy stuff -- cover the hills on each side. It's attractive, but after a while, gets a little mundane. I miss the trees -- for their beauty, the life that comes with them, and especially around midday, their shade. Conversation ebbs save for the occasional, "How much further?" as we trudge towards our lunch stop. Again cold beer and ridiculous amounts of food raise our spirits considerably.

A blanket of canola.

When I ask Robin what has changed over the period of him running the treks, deforestation is one of the first things that pops up, courtesy of slash and burn agriculture to plant dry rice, and a drop in "authenticity" as visitor numbers have slowly increased. He talks of leading single travellers through the region in the mid 1990s and having locals being visibly scared and children running away as a foreigner walked into the village.

The afternoon on day two has us visit arguably the only real "tourist activity" of the trip. We stop to watch an elderly woman hand-weaving scarves and bags. She started weaving at 20 years old and today, 52 years later, she's still banging them out. It takes her three days to make a bag, five days for a scarf. The price seems ridiculously little and she bags a few more sales from our group.

Morning meeting tree.

Much has changed through the 52 years the woman has been weaving. Roads have improved drastically. Motorbikes lean on their stand in front of many houses and smartphones are surprisingly common. But it needs to be acknowledged that what you're experiencing, while certainly not as restricted as previously, is still a tightly wrapped package. According to Robin only five villages in the Kalaw area are permitted to host foreigners and officially the entire area is still denoted as an area with security issues -- officially, you require a permit to enter. Unless told, you wouldn't realise this.

In the scheme of things, slash and burn is probably the least of the concerns when it comes to protecting what remains of Burma's forest coverage though industrial ravaging hasn't reached Cambodian standards . It's telling that of the entire trek, only the first few hours of the first day involves a walk through anything close to a native forest. That area is a protected area that encompasses Kalaw's drinking water supply, but as was our experience in northern Laos, the development focus appears to be primarily on farming cash crops rather than farming tourists.

Bemused local.

The weather starts to close in as we continue through Shan State's farms towards our second night's stay in a local monastery. It starts to sprinkle. I'm concerned as (against advice) I'd packed no wet weather gear and my bag is too small for my camera. Then the heavens open. It gets heavier. Then it sets in. We're utterly soaked and still have hours to go. What were previously dry hill trails become raging torrents in minutes. Chocolate waters rush off the topsoil -- and unwary travellers. A few take a spill. My camera, desperately hidden beneath my T-shirt, stops working (thankfully it comes back to life the next day).

Later the rain eases, revealing beautiful post-wet scenes, but the mud, oh my god the mud. It feels like a kilo has attached to each boot and they only get heavier each step. We're aiming for a pass through the hills, slowly making our way up a muddy slope that would have barely registered a mention had it been dry, but now it's an unpleasant slip'n slide and sense of humour failure lurks. But then we make the pass and, under failing light, peer the temple in the distance - oh salvation!

And then the rain came.

As with the village homestay the previous night, sleeping quarters are authentic -- meaning wooden floors, a bamboo mat and a very thin mattress. While the mattress does little to placate weeping joints, the Chinese-made blankets fend off frostbite. The bathroom is just a squat shack with a bucket of water for some left hand action located comfortably distant from any other quarters. The well water bucket shower is so cold I involuntarily yelp when I throw the first bucket over my head.

We trekked in high season November and perhaps, over the three days, I set eyes on 40 foreigners. In wet season the trekking scene drops off to almost nothing thanks to the rain taking away all the pleasures of a walk in the woods, as Robin says. He talks of wading up waist-deep rivers in all-day torrential rain and describes the scene as one that appeals to those seeking an "adventure". Our brief afternoon exposure to the wilds of the weather is but a taster apparently.

Local women on the way to a temple fair.

While prices in Kalaw can vary considerably (we paid around US$50 for the two night three day trek, Sam's was about a third cheaper), they mostly include all the same deal -- seven meals and the boat from the southern tip of Inle Lake to Nyaung Shwe, the tourist town on the north side of Inle Lake. You do need to buy your own water (you can buy it along the way) and pay the Inle admission fee ($10). According to Robin, 60% of what you pay to Golden Lily Trekking goes to either local communities or directly trek-related expenses like food, drink and guiding services.

The community angle is an important one. Independent travellers are looking for an authentic experience, but on occasions this can clash with their expected comfort levels. It's one thing to say you want to "experience life like a local" but when that comes to bathing in a river or under a bucket from a temple well, a clash with personal sensibilities can arise for some. Robin works with different houses in different villages and generally speaking the home owners vacate the premises, but in all cases they are paid to compensate for a night of inconvenience.

There she blows! Inle Lake.

The last day has us mostly walking along a dirt road save for the last few hours where we go back off the road for the final stretch to In Dein at the southern tip of Inle Lake. Everyone's a bit tired from the mud and rain of the previous day, and, once we can see the lake in the distance, it becomes more about just getting there than taking in the surrounds. Just on the outskirts of In Dein we're offered the diversion of climbing to a hilltop ruined pagoda -- only two of us take up the offer.

Welcome to Inle!

Just after the temple we emerge into a carpark-like area set aside for a rotating five-day market. The area is littered with souvenir stalls selling "I LOVE Inle Lake" T-shirts, keyrings, wooden carvings and so on. There are package tourists everywhere -- I saw more foreigners in five minutes than I had in the previous week. It's jarring and while an hour later we're on a speedboat ripping north across the beautiful Inle Lake, I can't help but think we've left the best part of the trip behind.

In late 2012, a formidable mission arrived from Travelfish headquarters: Find the best hostels in Bangkok. Over a span of months, I reviewed 50 hostels first-hand, considering issues like comfort, value, staff, common facilities, cleanliness, originality, design, location and atmosphere. In the end, I boiled them all down to 20 that I would most highly recommend.

Several key players needed no introductions, but I quickly found that the city's hostel ranks had grown exponentially over just a couple of years. At times the search felt like a futile attempt to survey the mole population in that old arcade game, Whac-A-Mole. Just when I thought I'd hit them all, a new one popped up. Finally, the project reached fruition: Travelfish's latest iBook/PDF guide: Bangkok's Best Hostels.

Like any "best of" list, choosing the top hostels in Bangkok is highly subjective. One traveller's stylish is another's tacky. I say tomato, you say ... vintage chic?

A four-bed dorm in the aptly named Cozy Bangkok Place.

Many hostels fall under the general category of retro, modern, sleek, industrial and/or minimalist. Others aim for cosy, homely, elegant or casual. Some have impressive common facilities that include mini-theatres, billiards tables, rooftop gardens, swanky lounges, and in one case, a miniature swimming pool. What homely hostels often lack in facilities is made up for -- at least in the eyes of some -- by a more intimate experience.

The budget travellers who come to Bangkok are a diverse lot. All 20 of these hostels won't be right for you, but we hope to steer you towards the one that is. Happy bunking.

In our humble opinion, Saphai Pae is Bangkok's all-round best hostel.

1. Saphai Pae Hostel
Occupying nine sizable floors between Silom and Sathorn roads, this black-and-yellow backpacker hive happened to be the first hostel we checked out. When we returned a year later, it remained unmatched. Friendly staff, comfortable bunks, loads of spotless space, funky atmosphere, good value and common facilities that are second-to-none make Saphai Pae the pick of the litter -- if you're after a large, modern hostel, that is. Read the full profile of Saphai Pae Hostel.

2. Cozy Bangkok Place
Contemporary touches compliment original hardwood floors and vintage furnishings in this renovated shophouse set on a leafy side street near Hualamphong train station. We appreciated positive attitudes from the manager and her yellow lab, Dumbo, but the phenomenal value was what made Cozy Place our top pick of the more homely hostels. Read the full profile of Cozy Bangkok Place.

Khaosan Immjai doesn't cut corners on comfort.

3. Khaosan Immjai Hostel
With its bright orange facade on quiet Samsen Soi 1 near Khao San Road and the Chao Phraya River, Khaosan Immjai ensures a restful night's sleep thanks to cushy mattresses with high quality linens, good security, a warm and welcoming staff, and rates that will make backpackers smile. While it's not a party spot, this all-round excellent hostel is also a fine place to make some friends. Read the full profile of Khaosan Immjai Hostel.

4. Rang Kha Mhin Homestay
Most backpackers seeking a hostel near Khao San seem to go for NapPark, but directly across the street, the cheerful Rang Kha Mhin offers better value, cushier beds and far more personable service. After resting up in one of the bright, airy and immaculate dorms, head down to the adorable ground-floor cafe for fair trade coffee, hearty breakfast and a slice of homemade carrot cake. Read the full profile of Rang Kha Mhin Homestay.

Lub d lovers could make a strong case that it's #1.

5. Lub d Silom
A pioneer of Bangkok's hostel craze, Lub d is the hostel that so many others have copied. With a funky industrial design, both Lub d Silom and the smaller Lub d Siam have developed top-notch reputations for generous common facilities, well-equipped dorms and privates, reliable security, great locations and a fun, social atmosphere. Both spots are extremely popular -- meeting travel buddies is a breeze. Read the full profile of Lub d Silom.

6. Refill Now!
Nailing the modern-minimalist theme like no other, Refill Now! is no ordinary hostel. The loads of natural light that shines through wall-size windows make it easy to see just how immaculate the plush white dorms truly are. A miniature swimming pool lies just beyond the swankiest common lounge of any Bangkok hostel. The only disadvantage is a relatively distant location well off Sukhumvit. Read the full profile of Refill Now!.

Refill Now! is the only hostel where you can take a dip.

7. Suneta Hostel Khaosan
With a sister property up in the northern mountains of Chiang Rai, Suneta has carried its classic dark wood and forest green theme all the way to Bangkok's backpacker bastion. The pricey private pod dorms with personal TVs behind heavy wood sliding doors are interesting, but the comfy regular dorms should fit the bill for most. Read the full profile of Suneta Hostel Khaosan.

8. Mile Map Hostel
In an eclectic Silom location behind Sri Maha Mariamman Hindu Temple and within easy reach of practically any international cuisine you can imagine, Mile Map won points for its understated style, airy common spaces and polite staff. With adequate dorms for around 300 baht in an otherwise pricey area, the value launched it from good to great. Read the full profile of Mile Map Hostel.

No shortage of space and light at Mile Map.

9. Pridi Hostel
Not far from Refill Now!, Pridi's somewhat remote east Bangkok location will be a turn-off for some, but if you seek an "authentically Thai" experience and are eager to try out the canal boats, it's a fabulous choice. An intimate atmosphere draws on elegant Chinese artistic flourishes, sumptuous Egyptian cotton linens on thick mattresses and one of the most relaxing common rooms we came across. Read the full profile of Pridi Hostel.

10. Niras Bankoc Cultural Hostel
Occupying an attractive 140-year-old Sino-European house in Bangkok's historic district, this classy hostel is perfect for those who prefer creaky teak wood over polished concrete. French vanilla paint on original plaster walls, tasteful old lanterns and narrow dark wood passageways lend Niras Bankoc an antiquarian vibe. Be sure to ask about the compelling history behind the mouthful of a name. Read the full profile of Niras Bankoc Cultural Hostel.

Inside Niras Bankoc -- hostel or museum?

11. Chern Boutique Hostel
Just around the corner from Niras Bankoc, the contemporary-styled Chern Boutique starkly contrasts its crumbling yet venerable surrounds. Plush dorms, good-value privates and professional staff make it a very comfortable choice near the historical sites. Well-done wall murals depicting animal characters from Thai folk tales add a hint of quirkiness to this otherwise slick and spacious hostel. Read the full profile of Chern Boutique Hostel.

12. Udee Hostel
Set in a newly-built polished concrete building in a quiet corner of northern Bangkok, Udee is arguably the city's most sophisticated hostel. Deep-red imperial Chinese-style doors, soothing open-air lounges, fountains and loads of greenery contribute to a mature and romantic atmosphere. Dorms are very cushy -- and very reasonably priced. Just don't come looking for a party. Read the full profile of Udee Hostel.

Entering Udee.

13. Siam Journey Guesthouse
Some might question our high ranking of this rag-tag little hostel near Siam Square, but we feel it's exactly what certain creative, contemplative, community-minded sorts of travellers are looking for. Though facilities are on the simple side, Siam Journey is perhaps your best bet if seeking to make some new bohemian friends. Read the full profile of Siam Journey Guesthouse.

14. HI Mid Bangkok
Part of the Hostelling International group, HI Mid features a minimalist Thai-Japanese design in the vibrant Victory Monument vicinity. Meticulous dorms and privates are rather pricey, but enthusiastic staff and inviting common spaces adds to the value. For something cheaper, you could always opt for HI Mid's simpler sister property, Hi Sukhumvit. Read the full profile of HI Mid Bangkok.

Siam Journey's inconspicuous frontage.

15. Silom Art Hostel
The award for most imaginative design goes to this over-the-top funky hostel in a great location off Silom Road. Furniture that wears human footwear, steel-chain hammocks, an upright piano and numerous "chandeliers" made of empty beer bottles are just a taste of what makes the Art Hostel, well, the Art Hostel. You'll also find excellent security, spotless facilities and a helpful staff. Read the full profile of Silom Art Hostel.

16. S1 Hostel
Rising from the crusty hallows of Soi Ngam Duphli in a swirl of muted grey and fluorescent yellow, S1 took an old flophouse and turned it into a sleek industrial-style hostel. Though lacking any hint of warmth, the clean, functional dorms and privates offer great value. The only problem is that they usually seem to be empty -- head to nearby Wong's Place to meet people. Read the full profile of S1 Hostel.

Silom Art Hostel supplies key-cards in addition to these keys.

17. NapPark Hostel
If it's a lively social scene that makes or breaks your hostel experience, look no further than NapPark. A stone's throw from Khao San, this ever-popular hostel draws a colourful mix of characters to its colourful confines. We were turned off by scratchy beds, minimal bathroom facilities and a disorganised staff, but hundreds of online reviews rave about the place. Read the full profile of NapPark Hostel.

18. @Hua Lamphong Hostel
Unless staying as close to Hualamphong train station as possible is your primary concern, there's nothing absolutely thrilling about the modern-style @Hua Lamphong, but it delivers a complete hostel package with unpretentious efficiency. Expect clean bathrooms, functional dorms, reasonably helpful staff, good common facilities and solid value. Read the full profile of @Hua Lamphong Hostel.

NapPark's top-floor chill space.

19. HQ Hostel
Joining Lub d, NapPark and Refill Now! among the city's trendy trail-blazers, HQ has kept up with the pack. With a phenomenal Silom location amid some seriously pricey real estate, it's no surprise that this sleek hostel makes do with tight quarters. If you can deal with that, each cool and immaculate bunk comes with its own private safe -- an anomaly among Bangkok's hostels. Read the full profile of HQ Hostel.

20. Samsen Skyline Hostel
With a refreshingly simple policy of charging all guests 250 baht per head, Samsen Skyline still believes in the apparently old-school idea that hostels should be cheap and simple. Dorms and bathrooms are basic, but we appreciated the laid back vibes, super friendly staff, authentic Thai curry-and-rice shop on the ground floor and rooftop terrace with panoramic views. Read the full profile of Samsen Skyline Hostel.

More information

You can download the full free guide to the best hostels in Bangkok here. It is available in PDF format and (in a slightly fancier flavour, for the iPad).

One child drowns every 45 seconds in Asia. For Vietnam, the estimated daily death rate sits anywhere between 10 and 32 children a day, making drowning one of the leading causes of death for children under the age of 10; for the under fives, almost 90 percent of drownings take place within 100 metres of their homes.

"I went to a spring with my friends but I did not know how to swim. An accident happened when I stepped suddenly into deep water. I tried to escape by struggling with my effort. However, it did not work in that way. What I did at that time was I remembered what I learned from the swimming training which was run by Swim Vietnam; I kept calm and I floated, and thanks to that, I saved my own life".
-- Duc, aged 12, who took part in a Swim Vietnam beach and water awareness course

How could you not want to sponsor this little chap!

Reading statistics like these led rather ambitious Scot Jo Stewart to trade her Singapore city job for the opportunity to help set up the charity Swim Vietnam in the central Vietnam coastal town of Hoi An. Armed with enthusiasm, the phone number of a contact from the Hoi An Tourism Department and plans of a three- to six-month stint to set the programme up (all you need is teachers, kids and a borrowed pool or two – right?)...

That was in 2008. Five years, five Swim Vietnam swim schools in three districts and three pools later, Swim Vietnam have successfully trained more than 120 adults to become swim instructors and more than 5,500 children to swim.

Swim Vietnam's training pool in Hoi An.

With Vietnam’s geography of river networks and long coastline it’s no surprise that the drowning toll is so high. Add to that a low lying rural landscape susceptible to massive flash floods, and the need for charities like Swim Vietnam, which work with the government on drowning prevention, becomes very apparent.

Who says swim school can't be fun!

Swim Vietnam's mission statement is “to reduce the incidence of drowning in Vietnam by providing high quality swim coaching to Vietnamese children. To teach them basic water safety techniques that could help save their lives and to promote general water safety issues in Vietnam. To give local people the required skills to teach swimming and water safety." Their long term goal is to help the government provide access to swimming lessons for all primary school children.

To achieve this they teamed up with AUSTSWIM, Australia’s national organisation of swim teachers, to train local instructors to an international level. The Hoi An education department helped raise awareness of the project in local schools and volunteers from around the globe trickled in to help.

The future Olympic team!

Jo Stewart is still with the charity, helping to push forward, raise funds and increase the outreach of Swim Vietnam. For kids who live in areas too far from their provincial centres (like Duc) they have trained instructors who go out to run lifesaving classes. The charity’s goals for 2014 are to find funding for and open two new pools in flood-prone Quang Nam province along with a pool in another part of Vietnam where drowning rates are high.

Travelfish has donated $100 to Swim Vietnam; this will put five children through the Swim Vietnam programme, teaching them swimming and lifesaving techniques that could save their own lives or the lives of others.

Swim Vietnam is a UK-registered charity. If you’d like to get involved in the project have a look at their list of volunteer opportunties or to donate via Paypal.

Swim Vietnam
Hoi An, Quang Nam Province, Vietnam.
T: (84) 01223451674.
www.swimvietnam.com

* Photos courtesy Swim Vietnam.

Five years ago, I first read Travelfish’s assertion that Luang Prabang is the destination in Laos. Though I had come close to visiting in subsequent years, LP had always eluded me, like an itch that I could never quite scratch. At the tail end of 2013, I finally made a spur-of-the-moment break for the ancient capital, and it proved more enchanting than I had imagined.

Every travel guide out there describes the bus ride from Vientiane to Luang Prabang as “long and gruelling”. They’re not kidding. To give an idea of what the terrain is like, the journey takes 11 hours by local bus but just 30 minutes by air. The ticket seller didn’t take pity on this lanky foreigner, forcing my long legs to be folded up like origami in the tight back row.

Welcome to LP, finally …

As we set off, the friendly 19-year-old monk riding next to me popped a tiny yellow sleeping pill. For the rest of the trip, a sharp monk elbow stabbed into my thighs as the prickly hairs of a hard monk head dug into my shoulder. Though the scenery was breathtaking in places, it felt as though the bus was the tip of a pencil that wrote the letter S over and over (and over) on sloppy slopes of papier mache. Exhaust steamed inside the bus, passenger overflow relegated to plastic stools in the aisle. If you can afford it, take a plane.

A quick rest stop, with the bus pictured on the right.

The next morning I wandered along the languid riverbank draped in tamarind and starfruit trees. A traveller strummed a guitar in the shade. The word “Boat?” lifted from nearby, and a skinny man with a smooth face and jet black hair appeared with a hopeful look. Within seconds I was perched on the engine shaft of a long and thin wooden skiff painted a similar hue as the hazy blue sky.

Morning along the Mekong.

I had seen the Mekong several times before, but only in places where it formed a border between Laos and Thailand. Here, it’s Laos’ river, and it wasn’t until this ride that I came to understand just how vital a resource it is to this otherwise landlocked and mountainous nation. If Luang Prabang is Laos’ heart, the Mekong is its soul.

Shoving off.

Enclosed in bamboo fences and tended by old women with elaborate diamond patterns embroidered on their dark blue silk skirts, vegetable gardens sprouted on the fertile flats that stretched up to steep banks. Children played “King of the Mountain” as their fathers sat motionless next to long fishing rods dangling over chocolate-milk water.

Unforgettable scenery.

Unlike most rivers that slide steadily along, the Mekong seems to follow its own rhythms and whims, flowing this way and that, bubbling like lava and swirling unpredictably. The driver expertly skirted the black, menacing rocks that churned up just enough white water to give me a thrill. In other stretches, the surface seemed to smooth out like dough under a rolling pin.

Floating filling station.

Scraggly grasses clung to the moon-like stones. A family sat on the far bank, charcoal smoke and the scent of grilling fish billowing above. Beyond them, unspoiled jungle.

Mekong life.

We pulled up to a floating bamboo pier, and I soon found myself strolling through the tiny village of Xang Hai. The people here seem to produce two things — silk scarves and alcohol made from rice and rye, often infused with actual snakes in an ancient elixir that’s believed to increase sexual vitality.

Approaching the whiskey village.

In different parts of the village, a group of old men showed off jagged teeth while cracking smiles and waving me over, and a boisterous group of young people yelled for me to join their karaoke and rice wine circle.

The silk weaving makes for better photos.

When I returned to find the boatman standing with a bottle in hand and guilty look on his face, he said, “Just little bit for me.” Barrels containing rye whiskey rendered from Mekong water smoked over charcoal fires nearby. Across the lane, an old woman used an even older wooden loom to fashion a pink scarf from naturally dyed threads of silk. Just down the road, a group of monks accepted a donation of onions and fruit brought by motorbike.

Singing in Lao is easier after a little rice wine.

Back on the boat, dramatic karst cliffs emerged from the haze to the north, and we soon pulled up to Pak Ou Caves. Carved like shelves into a foreboding cliff that dangles many metres over the water, monks, pilgrims and curious foreigners have been coming here for centuries.

Keeping the wheel spinning.

The age-old custom of leaving Buddha images inside the caves has created a haunting and dishevelled melange of ancient, museum-worthy pieces mixed with souvenirs bought yesterday in Luang Prabang’s night market. I had the sense that the caves are a sort of repository for past karma, which is encapsulated in the images.

Cave of ten thousand Buddhas.

Though the caves now fill up with almost as many tourists as Buddhas, the chalky air still seems to drip with a mystical power. Fragrant incense smoke mixes with mustiness; bits of gold leaf shimmer amid shadows cast by flickering candles; thick cobwebs reach from one ancient Buddha head to the next.

Yes, “haunting” is the word.

On occasion, monks spend days or weeks meditating in the darker and more distant upper cave. Near the mediaeval wooden doors that mark its entrance, pilgrims attempt to conjure their wishes by shaking out fortune sticks from a weathered crimson cup.

Gold leaf remnants on a cave wall.

Nearly five hours after setting off, our boat returned to the modest dock in Luang Prabang. We arrived just in time for a sublime Mekong sunset.

Entrance to the upper cave.

The next day, I wandered Luang Prabang’s historic area, stopping every few steps to photograph the heritage houses that line the leafy streets. Some look like estates that were plucked out of the French countryside; others feature elegant Lao-style gabled roofs perched atop rustic wooden walls. Many fall somewhere in between, and therein lies the town’s distinctive blend of architecture.

There’s nothing like a Mekong sunset.

Dozens of ancient temples add to the compelling architectural mix — and rich history — that afforded the town its UNESCO World Heritage status.

• See our handpicked suggestions for the best budget places to stay in Luang Prabang.

At the impressive 450-year-old Wat Xieng Thong, I stopped under the bronze-tinted leaves of a similarly ancient Bodhi tree and daydreamed about the kings, warriors, princesses and monks who would have prayed here long ago.

Layer upon layer.

In a word, the temples of Luang Prabang are magnificent.

An ordinary Luang Prabang scene.

Seeking a break from the chilly late December air, I sought out a hot cup of coffee in Cafe Du Laos, one of many cafes that would fit seamlessly into a Paris street corner. I sat back and poured the rich and bitter French press brewed from beans grown in the surrounding hills. A classical guitar was picked with skill nearby. Even if travelling alone, it’s impossible to deny the romance of Luang Prabang.

Strolling down Sakkaline Road.

Revitalised from the local brew, I climbed the 190 imperfect stone steps that lead to the golden chedi atop Mount Phou Si. From here, all of the elements that make Luang Prabang so special come together in one tremendous view.

Looking southwest from atop Mount Phou Si.

Gracefully-arched temple roofs nestled up to galvanised houses. Slow-paced life unfolded on porches and in the streets. Never far off in both sight and mind, the Mekong slid past, just as it did when the area was settled many centuries ago. A surrounding vista of breathtaking green mountains rose to meet the clouds. There’s no doubt that Luang Prabang is touristy, but like Hoi An in Vietnam, the town seems to understand that preservation is vital to tourism.

Many locals earn a living by creating art for travellers.

As darkness fell, I wrapped myself in a steaming bowl of noodle soup with fresh local greens, sprouts and chillies.

The food is another Luang Prabang highlight.

At night, Luang Prabang’s markets are inescapable — the only option is to be swept into streams of fresh meats, piles of clementines and dragon fruit, spicy bamboo shoot and papaya salads, aromatic soups, grilled Mekong fish, handmade sausages and endless displays of locally-crafted silk, silver and handicrafts. In a dim market corridor that was absolutely stuffed with food, travellers huddled around tables with Beerlao, local rice wine and laughter to keep them warm.

And, of course, the markets.

After a few more leisurely hours enjoying coffee and croissants in Luang Prabang’s fabulous cafes, I returned to Vientiane the next day. Rather than endure another one of those bus rides, I opted for a relatively cheap flight with the tiny local carrier, Lao Central. Though it was just a short taste, I learned first-hand that Luang Prabang is not only the destination in Laos, but indeed, one of the most magical in all of Southeast Asia.