Thailand is known for its beautiful beaches, and Ko Samui is no exception. Being one of Thailand's most popular tourist locations, Samui's beaches may no longer be as secluded as those of the smaller islands. For some, this is not a negative; but those still opting for isolation or authenticity need not worry, as this can still be found with a little help.

What makes a good beach? We've actually written about the beaches of Ko Samui before -- and just as it was back then, everyone has their own idea of what is a good beach. To some it means soft white sand, clear and calm water, a coconut palm to offer shade and no distractions. To others, plentiful deck chairs, music, a barman on call and a crowd to share this with make a beach something to remember. Still to others with young children, safe swimming beach, bathroom facilities, family-friendly restaurants and no topless bathers might all make a great beach. We've made a few suggestions here, allowing you to choose the best spot to lay your towel depending on your ideal memory-making beach.

Chaweng beach lies on the island's east coast, and is Samui's longest and busiest beach. Should one arrive early morning, it's easy to see why this was the first beach area to lure tourists to Samui. Private villas no longer grace Chaweng's shores and every available space is squeezed tight with resorts, restaurants and bars. Room rates along this beach are inflated, and nothing in the backpacker or even flashpacker range is available these days. However, those wanting a social scene make a good choice in Chaweng, as venues such as Ark Bar pump out music and fill every open patch of sand with sun beds. Do not expect peace and quiet -- if the vendors don't disturb you, the jetskis will. At night the party continues, and day beds are turned into chill platforms, while the serious deejays hit the deck.

Deck chairs aplenty on Chaweng.

Those enjoying water sports have several options with all the main beaches offering some form of equipment hire. Surfers will be let down however, as Samui has no waves -- at all. SUP (stand-up paddling) has become the latest trend on the island as no waves are needed, and boards and lessons are available in Chaweng, Lamai and Mae Nam. All the busier beaches, as well as many of the resorts, will hire out kayaks at around 100 baht per hour. This is a great way to exercise the upper body and see Samui from a different angle (ed: I prefer to adjust my day bed's height). Kite surfing is popular along Mae Nam beach, particularly at the point in front of the W Retreat, where Mae Nam beach meets Bophut beach, and the wind is at its best by Samui standards. Jetskis are controversial on the island, as they annoy anyone not on one. However, they are available for hire at Chaweng, Lamai, Choeng Mon and Bophut beaches. Be aware of bathers, as there don't seem to be designated areas for the jetskis, and nasty accidents have happened.

Kite surfing at Laem Set.

Underwater world lovers may want to book a day's snorkelling trip to Ko Tao, about 90 minutes by ferry from Samui, and known as one of the best snorkelling and dive locations in Southeast Asia (and let's be aware, the world's coral reefs are dying).

Moored at the Marine Park.

Should you not want to venture as far, then the best snorkelling option would be to take a longboat trip, only a few hundred metres across, to Ko Taen and Ko Matsum, two small islands off the southern harbour of Thong Krut. Here the snorkelling is even better than the Ang Thong Marine Park. Without leaving Samui, try the small bays of Coral Cove and Crystal Bay, between Chaweng and Lamai.

If the thought of a quiet beach shared only with a few fishermen and perhaps a water buffalo appeals to you, then explore Samui's southwestern coastline. Taling Ngam beach is long and at parts is shared by a few resorts, but some stretches are totally isolated, as is neighbouring Phang Ka Bay. Don't be afraid to travel down a dirt path and explore -- Samui is safe to do so, and a few patches down south are completely void of development. Samrong and Thongson Bays at the northeastern tip of Samui, although not undeveloped, have managed to escape mass tourism.

Slow day with the family at Taling Ngam.

Nearby Choeng Mon beach is popular with expat families, due to its clean water and protected bay. Good restaurants as well as a few food vendors are around when it's time to feed the family, but the bar scene is unobtrusive. Bang Rak beach is popular with Thai families, and here one will see children swimming early evening, while grandmothers dig with toes in the sand in search of clams for dinner.

A sleepy groove at Mae Nam.

The best backpacker spots can still be found nestled between high-end resorts and villas, along the much underrated Mae Nam beach as well as a few to the western end of Bophut beach.

Time to explore!

Deep in the southern Cardamom Mountains, beyond Chi Phat village, lies an untamed jungle, traversed by surging rivers and sheltering wildlife that, until recently, was little more than a commodity to locals. The southern Cardamom Mountains were until very recently Cambodia's Wild West, the centre of the country's thriving wildlife trade and the hiding place of a few diehard Khmer Rouge communities, who are reported to have lived there until as late as 2002.

The lucrative wildlife and logging trades provided a much-needed supplement to the meagre income earned by the rural poor in this area of Cambodia, a country where some two-thirds of the population still work in agriculture, often at subsistence level. Realising that any attempt to protect the Cardamoms would also have to involve the communities that depended on the jungle, Wildlife Alliance — a local charity — set up an ecotourism initiative, called the Chi Phat Community-Based Ecotourism Project (CBET) in 2007. Now, eco-minded travellers and nature-lovers can visit the area, while also contributing to its preservation.

Guesthouse companion.

It is a hugely ambitious project. The first step was demarcating an area that rangers from the Ministry of Forestry would patrol. Wildlife rescue and rehabilitation missions began soon afterwards. (If you visit the Phnom Tamao Wildlife Refuge near Phnom Penh, which is also run by Wildlife Alliance, a number of the animals will have been rescued at Chi Phat.) A handful of ex-poachers now work as service providers — including as jungle guides, guesthouse owners, garbage collectors, mototaxi drivers and cooks — and have begun to see the potential of a continuous income stream from tourists. Women in particular, who generally invest more in the health and education of their families than men, have been employed in reforestation efforts which provide an alternative, long-term source of income to logging or slash and burn farming. One billion trees have been replanted so far, and the coveted rosewood tree — worth as much as $8,000 per cubic metre — is at last being protected to a degree.

Since the ecotourism initiative began, wildlife trade in the region has been reduced by a remarkable 70 percent, and between January 2009 and May 2010, the project brought in $100,000 — 80 percent of which goes to the village. The remaining 20 percent of earnings go into a fund for maintenance and operation costs. In the future, the community intends to use the funds to make village improvements.

Activities
Chi Phat village is a pleasant place to relax with a book, rent a bicycle or go for walks, but getting out into the jungle is the real attraction. The Visitors' Centre (T: +855 092720925; chiphatbooking@gmail.com) can arrange a variety of guided outdoor activities, such as sunset dinners in a riverboat, three-day trekking, rafting and mountain-biking adventures, sighting wildlife and visiting ancient burial jar sites in the jungle. If you're relatively fit, an overnight trek in the jungle is a happy medium. The staff at the centre prefer to arrange accommodation themselves because it makes it easier to fairly allocate visitors to guesthouses, so check in to the centre when you arrive. If you have any problems chartering a boat, the CBET staff can assist you via telephone.

Trekking in the Cardamoms: just a stroll in the rain.

One of the more popular guided activities is an 11 kilometre trek to a camp site near Veal Trapak, where you can spend the night in a hammock listening to the sounds of the jungle and the rushing river. Veal Trapak pond, a watering hole for wildlife, is a short walk away, and you may be lucky enough to spot gibbons, hornbills or even a bear if you arrive at sunrise or sunset. The hike continues to O'Key village the next morning, which you'll reach in time for lunch, before heading to O'Malu waterfall, 10 kilometres from the campsite, where a cool dip will refresh you for the final 14 kilometres out of the jungle and back to Chi Phat.

Prices for guided treks range from $8 to $20 per person per day. Equipment like canoes or motor boats normally bumps up the price. All treks include a guide, a cook, meals, a few bottles of water and a tent and/or hammock. Extras such as sleeping bags, backpacks and raincoats are available for a nominal fee.

Be aware that the 'hut accommodation' available on some routes is no more than a bamboo roof above a wooden platform on stilts. You really will be sleeping in the jungle, so don't expect more than an outhouse and —maybe — a river to bathe in. Although the water may be heavenly in the summer months, during the rainy season the river banks are as leech-infested as the trail. In the rainy season, take a bag of salt along to sprinkle on the many leeches that will attach to your skin; the salt makes them fall off painlessly. The smouldering end of a cigarette (any brand will do) also works a treat.

Accommodation
You'll find a selection of guesthouses ($5 per room) and homestays ($3 for one person/ $4 for two) along the main road. All have shared bathrooms with cold or bucket showers, sit down toilets and mosquito nets. Currently, the CBET centre is the only place with WiFi access.

Jungle cook at work.

The village's ecolodge ($20 for twin accommodation) has bungalows with modern ensuite bathroom facilities on a small island about 1.5 kilometres from the CBET centre.

You'll find a handbook in each guesthouse with amusing pictures to assist communication, including a foreigner pointing at a dirty bathroom, requesting it be cleaned. There is also a section about what you can expect from your guesthouse (towels, a bottle of mineral water) with a code of conduct for both parties to follow; guesthouse owners should respect your privacy and you should dress modestly, for instance. As with all aspects of the Chi Phat project, these are often ideals, not realities.

Electricity in Chi Phat only runs in the early mornings and evenings, except at the CBET centre, where it is available all day, as is WiFi. The lights promptly go out at 23:00 every evening, by which time you are expected to be in your guesthouse.

Eating
A couple of eateries line the main road with basic, mostly vegetarian food. The CBET centre also cooks local or Western lunches and dinners for a few dollars if you order half a day in advance. Homestays can provide meals ($5 for one person, $8 for two including accommodation).

Getting there
Transport to Chi Phat starts in Andoung Teuk, which is served by all buses to and from Koh Kong. Tell the driver you want to get out at Andoung Teuk and you'll be dropped off at a bridge beside a few small shops. If you're coming from Thailand and reach the Hat Lek/Koh Kong border by mid morning, you can make it to Chi Phat before nightfall. Note the Khmer side of the border is known for overcharging. Taxi drivers double as touts and try to handle visa applications themselves. Thefts during the confusion have been reported.

Take a boat up the river.

From Koh Kong's central bus station, buses to Phnom Penh (via Andoung Teuk) leave a few times a day, starting from 08:00, and take three and a half hours. From Andoung Teak, you have the choice of following the Preak Piphot River or a dirt track to Chi Phat. The boat ride to Chi Phat is one of the highlights of a visit. Wooden longtails make the journey in a little under two hours ($20), gliding past mangroves, mountains covered in thick vegetation and an occasional group of swimming children. It is a slow, peaceful journey. Noisy speedboats make the trip too, and charge US$50 for the 30-minute journey.

A public boat is also available ($2.50 per person). It leaves at midday from the eastern side of the river, below the bridge, but does not run the whole year round. The trip takes around two and a half hours. There is also the option of chartering a more comfortable, large wooden boat for groups of up to 20 at a cost of $35 for the two-hour trip. The locals at Andoung Teuk Bridge may think you're mad not to choose the cheaper, faster motorbike taxi option, even in the rainy season when the track is almost pure mud. It will cost around $7 for the 90-minute journey along a forest track.

About the author
Claire van den Heever is the author of Sold Out, a book about Chinese contemporary art due for publication later this year, as well as an overland travelogue about her journeys through the Old World.

Gili means "little island" in Sasak (the native language of Lombok) and while there are "gilis" all around the circumference of Lombok, when people talk of "the Gilis", they're not trying to showoff their Sasak prowess, but rather they're referring to three little islands off the northwest coast of Lombok, Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air.

The Gilis feature regularly in "The next hot thing"-style travel articles you'll see in your Sunday newspaper and have (somewhat deservedly) a reputation for heavy partying. Not all that surprisingly, it's a little bit more complicated than that and it's a mistake to consider the three Gilis as being one and the same -- each has its own distinct vibe.

Relaxing away from the hordes on the northern tip of Gili T.

So which Gili is for you?

Gili Trawangan
This is the largest and most heavily developed of the three islands. Affectionately referred to as Gili T, Gili Trawangan has the largest number of guesthouses, hotels and resorts (more than 100) and enough bars and beach shacks to keep even the most dedicated party-goer well satisfied.

Gili Trawangan has the greatest supply of cheap(ish) rooms (which are mostly in the village near the main boat landing) of the three Gilis. This combined with the oversupply of bars and party atmosphere make it the most popular among budget travellers and those out for a good time -- your typical "sun, sand and sex" crowd.

Enjoy the sunset with a heap of new friends.

Bear in mind that when we say cheap, in most cases you're still going to be looking at at least 200,000 rupiah a night -- 300,000 in high season -- for a cheap room in the village. Elsewhere, really very mediocre bungalows are going for 600,000 and up -- at least double what you'd pay elsewhere in Indonesia.

The party scene has two main flavours -- the immediate area around the boat landing has plenty of beach bars and pubs (often charging Bali prices) and then the northern tip of the island has more secluded beach shacks and bars, which may appeal to those looking for a more laidback scene.

Despite protestations otherwise, drugs remain commonplace on the Gilis, especially on Gili T. Mushrooms are often signposted and the dealers proffering (mostly pot and cocaine) along the walk down to the pier area can get downright tiresome. Bear in mind that pot and coke are absolutely illegal in Indonesia, and while there is a common meme that the Gili T authorities turn a blind eye, we'd advise not risking it.

Take me to that other place...

Aside from boozing, the main activities here are riding around the island and doing a snorkelling trip. There is a turtle hatchery on the island and you'll have a good chance of seeing turtles offshore. If you're in the market for postcard white sand beaches, you're in the right place.

Recommended places to stay on Gili Trawangan
Budget bed: Alexyane Paradise
Flashpacker fancy: Danima Resort
Leisurely luxury: Desa Dunia Beda Beach Resort

Browse more places to stay on Gili Trawangan through Agoda.com

Gili Meno
This is the Gili the Gilis forgot. Gili Meno smallest of the three, with a brackish seawater lake towards its western coast, this is arguably the quietest and most peaceful of the three islands.

Lombok views.

The selection of accommodation is far more limited (as is the bar supply) but there is still an adequate selection for most, regardless of budget.

Of the three, this is arguably the most family-friendly. It lacks the crowd, drugs and racket of Gili T and remains more laidback than Gili Air. The beaches, especially on the coast facing Lombok, are very safe for swimming and there's plenty of sand for empire-building.

Snorkelling trip off Gili Meno.

Meno has some good snorkelling off the south and west coast and the beaches, while not as glorious as Gili T's, are certainly not shabby.

Recommended places to stay on Gili Meno
Budget bed: Amber House
Flashpacker fancy: Sunset Gecko

Browse more places to stay on Gili Meno through Agoda.com

Gili Air
This is the most popular after Gili T and is the only one of the three islands that has an indigenous population. You'll notice almost immediately how much greener it is than the other two -- that's thanks to it having its own water supply.

Glorious Gili Air with Lombok in the distance.

While it has a solid full range of accommodation, Gili Air has successfully pushed itself as the more "sophisticated" of the three islands. You can still party here as you can on Gili T, but the scene is a tad more upmarket and the crowd perhaps a little bit more grown up (physically if not mentally).

Gili Air's best beach (in our humble opinion) runs along the west coast. This is also the least developed beach so bear in mind that most of the accommodation on Air is not actually on the best beach on the island.

Just another Gili Air sunset.

Recommended places to stay on Gili Air
Budget bed: 7 Seas Backpackers
Flashpacker fancy: Island View Bungalow
Leisurely luxury: Kai's Beach House

Browse more places to stay on Gili Air through Agoda.com

So which Gili is for you?
Young, single and looking to party, with some snorkelling thrown in? Look no further than Gili Trawangan. A little older, still enjoy a good night out and possess a slightly fatter wallet? Gili Air. Travelling with kids in tow, or just looking for a real getaway from all the distractions presented on the other two islands? Gili Meno should be on the money.

Which island today?

Bear in mind the islands are within a short distance of one another, so there is no good reason to restrict yourself to one -- try all three!

Way back last century when it "re-opened" to tourism, travelling Vietnam by motorbike was one of the offbeat ways to explore the country. Then, a few years ago, the BBC's Top Gear programme did it and the sight of Jeremy Clarkson, Richard Hammond and James May vrooming down Vietnam's back roads did more for British tourism to Vietnam than anything short of free bia hoi would have.

The traveller-motorbiking scene exploded, and in the years that followed thousands of foreign travellers, many of them at least in part inspired by the BBC programme, headed to Vietnam to grab a scooter and ride it top to tail (or tail to top). It seems few though enjoyed the trip quite as much as Anthony Milotic and Elise Reeks did, as they've put together a very smart 120 page ebook that serves as an ideal planner for a motorbike trip in Vietnam.

Vroom vroom!

Two Wheels & Ricefields is an easy to read and well laid out ebook that covers much of the information a "Vietnam-easy-rider-wannabe" is going to need to know. It starts off with some very clear, no BS facts. More than 7,000 fatalities and 7,000 injuries befall motorcyclists in Vietnam EVERY YEAR, and many insurance companies WILL NOT COVER YOU. So this isn't a rosy ride up the garden path; Milotic and Reeks are at pains to point out from the get go that you need to "be safe and ride at your own risk".

We agree.

If you're brave enough to keep on reading, the book then guides you through some of the standard pre-departure briefing material -- etiquette, festivals, accommodation, food, weather and language. They also cover some of the issues surrounding the legalities of riding in Vietnam, where to get a license, permits and rego, and an overview of border crossings. It's all solid information -- much of which is probably in your guidebook (should you have one), but this is written with the motorcyclist in mind.

It's not till some 26 pages in that we get to the meat in this motorcycle sandwich -- rent or buy along with a swag of guidance regarding what you need to consider when you're looking at various bikes. Best of all there is a selection of pics of different types of bikes common in Vietnam, from the Minsk 125cc through to the Win 100/110cc, each with a short par describing who each bike is most appropriate for. This is very useful -- though we have to say the bikes in the pics are WAY shinier than anything we have ever seen in Vietnam!

This follows on with a section on what to look out for in a bike (assuming you are buying a secondhand bike). This will be obvious to an experienced biker, but for the novice, there are some very good points that will help you avoid buying a pile of junk.

Once you've got the bike, it's time to accessorise. Milotic and Reeks cover just about all the bases save fluffy dice; it's solid, good advice and again as with the earlier sections, this is of most use to the novice. We then move on to maintenance, motorbike safety tips and general advice pertinent to staying alive on the road -- thumbs up.

Just you and the road.

The guide next covers places of interest, where they traverse some of the most likely destinations a motorcycle tourist is going to find themselves. Information is rather brief, but this isn't pretending to be a guidebook -- rather it's suggesting which direction you should point your bike in. They follow this up with a section covering some "unforgettable rides" which, as with places of interest, is brief on details, but certainly enough to get your feet itching.

From here they move towards the conclusion with some handy tips regarding where to offload the motorbike at the end of your trip, with advice on different ways to sell it. The ebook rounds out with a kit list, some phrases, including the ever-useful "Can I just pay a fine?" and a bunch of coupons and links for further reading (thanks for the plug!).

Two Wheels & Ricefields does a good job of covering all the main bases that a first-time motorcyclist in Vietnam will be looking out for, but we do think that the destination section could have been more in depth. As Milotic and Reeks obviously discovered, Vietnam is great for biking, but more information on suggested routes, along with estimated time required to do a particular route, would really have added to the value of the guide. As would a map -- even for general illustrative purposes -- as a first-time visitor may have scant idea where Kon Tum or Buon Me Thout actually are when they're at their planning stage.

Get off the beaten track -- somewhere random in Yen Bai.

For the more experienced motorcyclist, most of what is in here SHOULD be common knowledge, but if motorbiking Vietnam is a brand new adventure for you, this guide is excellent value and we don't hesitate to recommend it -- and the coupons (should you use them all) will easily recoup the price of the guide -- it retails for US$17.

Thanks to Anthony and Elise for forwarding us a complimentary copy of the guide -- we've also bought a copy, meaning we've got two to give away. If you'd like a copy, we'll be giving away both in our newsletter next week, so sign up and you'll find out more on August 13.

Do you dream of riding an elephant on your Southeast Asia vacation? Have you always wanted to get close to one of these noble beasts, outside of a zoo setting? Do you just want to see cute baby elephants do tricks? According to some experts, you shouldn't. Especially in Cambodia.

Asian elephants are compelling beasts, but they are often sorely mistreated in the tourism industry. The training that's required to make them safe around people is often akin to torture, as demonstrated by the traditional Thai "phajaan" or "crush," where young animals spirits are systematically broken through torture and social isolation. And don't be fooled when attractions swear up and down that they use humane training techniques: when incomes are on the line, humane, slow-moving training techniques often go out the window.

Elephant outside Sen Monorom in Mondulkiri, Cambodia.

Health is another major issues for tourism industry elephants in Southeast Asia, who are often overworked, underfed and beaten if they fail to perform properly. This combination of poor care and equally poor treatment often makes these intelligent, sensitive animals go off the deep end: repetitive swaying and nervous tics are trademark behaviours of depressed elephants -- as well as occasional violent outbursts.

All these considerations don't seem to carry much weight in the Southeast Asian tourist scene, where elephant attractions are both popular and profitable, cashing in on visitors' romantic ideas of an exotic Southeast Asia holiday. Thankfully, there are ways to get up close and personal with elephants in Southeast Asia without contributing to animal cruelty.

The Elephant Valley Project, an elephant sanctuary located in the northeastern Cambodian province of Mondulkiri, is run by the energetic Jack Highwood, who started his charity in 2006, and the Elephant Valley Program in 2007. The Mondulkiri facility now has 12 rescued elephants, obtained from locals. Owners will often will accompany the elephant to the sanctuary as its personal "mahout," or handler.

Gentle giants.

The Bunong people of Mondulkiri, an indigenous minority within Cambodia, traditionally captured young elephants from the wild. The elephants would help them log, clear brush and travel for long distances through the jungle. But a wild elephant hasn't been captured in Mondulkiri in 22 years, and much ancient knowledge about elephant care was lost with the Khmer Rouge war years. Now, the few remaining Bunong elephants are used more often in tourist attractions than they are for logging or brush clearing.

Cambodia -- and Mondulkiri, where the bulk of elephant riding in the country takes place -- is an especially dodgy proposition for aspirant elephant riders in Southeast Asia. That's because unlike Thailand and Laos, Cambodia just doesn't have very many elephants -- Highwood says there are 54 domestic elephants left in Mondulkiri, with 14 of those elephants working." It doesn't make sense to ride those last 14 into the ground," Highwood says. Recent studies (PDF) indicate that the Cambodian Asian elephant population is likely between 250 and 600."

It's a different situation in Thailand, Highwood said, where a large number of "unemployed elephants" with nowhere to go as Thailand's forests have been hacked down. "You can go to Thailand and see a trek camp with 40 or 50 elephants -- you can have a replacement," Highwood says, noting that the Thai camps are able to at least give the animals the occasional break. But with so few in Mondulkiri, he says, you can't replace one. "The family needs income," he says.

Highwood says that elephant riding is rarely the profound experience tourists expect. Elephant riding is not on offer at his sanctuary; Elephant Valley instead gives visitors a chance to touch, wash and get close to his rescued charges.

"A lot of Western tourists go on an elephant ride and say, ‘Wow, that was horrible. The elephant looked terrible. We ate some food and came back,' " Highwood says. What tourism offers, he adds, is the chance to get people to think.

Long time Mondulkiri resident and actively-retired development worker Bill Herod, who has worked for many years with the Bunong, agrees with Highwood's assessment. "Riding elephants may be a great photo-op, but it isn't much fun. It is uncomfortable and there isn't much to see. Sitting 12 feet up in the air and having your face lashed by tree branches, you can't see much of the elephant or your surroundings."

Get up close, but no need to ride.

In Mondulkiri, Herod adds, the Bunong people aren't seeing much in the way of profits from elephant riding either. Much of the money paid for elephant riding goes to the business interests that make the arrangement, such as guesthouses, travel operators and guides, rather than to the person who owns and cares for the elephant or to the Bunong villagers. "If you care about elephants, don't get taken for a ride," he advises.

WHAT ABOUT THE LOCALS?

Poor Southeast Asians need to make an income, and elephants are a great way for locals to make money from tourism. That's a very important consideration, and it falls to outside organisations to convince elephant attraction operators and elephant owners that they can treat animals more kindly without taking too big a financial hit.

Highwood's efforts to convince locals to keep some forest land for sanctuary elephants includes providing free medical care for three nearby villages. Elephant owners and landowners willing to rent to the sanctuary are paid in rice, as much as they would get from farming.

"The idea behind this than is they see a value in the forest, income from the forest, worth," said Highwood. "Otherwise, they don't see any jobs coming from the forest, just wasteland."

WHAT IF I WANT TO RIDE AN ELEPHANT ANYWAY?

If you are deadset on riding an elephant, here are a few ways for amateurs to determine if an animal is well-treated or not - and if a elephant programme is worth your time and money.

Before you patronise any kind of attraction or tour featuring elephants, do some research first. Check their website, if they have one, and see what customer reviews on travel websites have to say about the establishment. The project's emphasis should be focused on rescuing and taking care of both elephants and the local community, not on serving tourists -- although responsible tourist programmes are great too.

Once there, check the animal. Can you see the animal's ribs? Can you see dips behind the hipbone? According to Highwood, elephants typically eat for 15 to 20 hours a day, but are often fed too little in captivity. "Families don't feed them, assuming they can get enough in the forest or paddock," he says.

Check for signs of dehydration, too. "If the toenails are pulled back, cracking or peeling, [the elephant is] really dehydrated," says Highwood. "They don't have time in the river, and probably don't drink enough."

An Elephant Valley resident.

Is the animal limping, or favouring one foot over the other? Does the animal have visible scar tissue? Can you see abscesses, wounds, or weeping sores?

Observe the animal's behaviour, too. Is the elephant swaying, or biting its own trunk? These are signs it is in pain, or nervous. Tired elephants will look listless, and will sometime rest their trunk on the ground.

Circus acts, "tricks," or many elephant rides a day are bad signs. Reputable sanctuaries and trekking operations usually won't offer these attractions.

Consider community buy-in. Is the programme making an effort to reach out to the community in some way?

More information
The Elephant Valley Project
We paid US$30 for a half day trip which included transport and lunch.
World Elephant Day

Story by Faine Greenwood
Faine is a DC and Southeast Asia based journalist/geek/blogger - check out Faine's website at http://fainegreenwood.com/.

So we have another year of A-level results and another year of feverish travel planning as another year's worth of British students decide to take a gap year before hitting university. You'd be mad not to be fitting in a Southeast Asia sojourn as a part of your journey, so here's some advice to get the most out of your time here.

Cambodia
Don't miss Phnom Penh... or Koh Rong

Some find it dificult to look past Angkor Wat when it comes to Cambodia, but the capital Phnom Penh and stunning island of Koh Rong are both must-sees. Give each at least three days and don't be surprised when you end up doubling your time in each.

Koh Rong: Bloody awful.

Highlight: Sunset cruise in Phnom Penh, slow days on the beach on Koh Rong.
Lowpoint: The "cocaine" in Phnom Penh is often heroin -- you're in Cambodia, not Cuzco. Watch out for snatch and grab robberies and stay in control.

Indonesia
Party in the Gilis, but get off Trawangan

The Gilis are just about the least Indonesian destination in Indonesia, but they're popular for a reason. They're very beautiful, moderately affordable and the snorkelling is great. Just remember there are actually three and allow an extra week to get of Trawangan and explore the other two -- Gili Meno and Gili Air.

The Gilis: When you'd rather be snorkelling.

Highpoint: Snorkelling
Lowpoint: The drugs freely available on Gili T are actually illegal and Indonesia enforces harsh penalties for drug use and trafficking.

Laos
Go to Vang Vieng but also go to Konglor cave

You're going to Laos so we're not going to tell you not to go to debauched party town Vang Vieng, but while you're in Laos, don't miss the lovely Tha Khaek loop.

A quiet day in Vang Vieng.

Highlight: Boating through Konglor cave
Lowlight: Stay in control in Vang Vieng. People continue to die in situations that are avoidable.

Malaysia
Eat everywhere but eat on the street

The Malaysian capital is much more than you may expect and the backpacker quarter is slowly lifting its game. While you're there be sure to visit Batu Caves, but further afield don't miss Georgetown on Penang -- give it four days and allow for putting on a few extra kilos as the food is close to the best in the world.

Batu Caves: Let's build a big statue.

Highlight: Street food in both cities.
Lowlight: Booze is expensive. Bring in duty free.

Singapore
Book beds in advance… eat in hawker stalls

People get put off Singapore because of the cost, but plenty of things to do are free, including loads of museums and even a bunch of islands to explore. Stay longer than a night, but book your accommodation in advance -- the best hostels in Singapore fill up fast. And learn to use the bus system - your wallet will thank you.

Singapore: Free stuff includes gazing at alien spaceships masquerading as hotels.

Highlight: Hawker food.
Lowlight: This can be an expensive town. Booze is pricey. The best accommodation fills fast.

Thailand
Check out the FMP then bail for a west coast island

Like Vang Vieng, experiencing the Full Moon Party on Ko Pha Ngan is a bit of a rite of passage for you and 10,000 other lunatics. But don't plan on spending your entire detox on Ko Pha Ngan -- instead head over to the Andaman west coast of southern Thailand.

Ko Surin: A perfect place to miss the UK.

Highlight: Snorkelling on Thailand's west coast.
Lowlight: Watch out for theft, druggings and random attacks by druken idiots at the FMP. Don't assume the person trying to sell you acid isn't a police officer. Where possible avoid bus travel at night (due to theft and accidents) -- train travel is preferable.

Vietnam
Double your time in Hanoi and get licensed

Over and over again people complain that they ran out of time in Hanoi. There is a shedload of things to do (though we've advised one of the best ways to experience Hanoi is to avoid all that), the streetfood is fabulous and the booze super cheap. Double however long you've allowed there. If you're planning on travelling by motorbike, get a motorbike license in your home country and read your travel insurance policy very, very carefully.

Highlight: A day spent in a series of Hanoi cafes just watching life go by. Ha Long Bay is also okay.
Lowlight: Scams in heavily touristed areas can become tiresome fast. Snatch and grab theft is a growing problem in the south as is the Filipino scam. Stay in control. Don't ride your motorbike when drunk -- duh.

Insurance
Grow a brain, get insured

If you can't afford to travel without adequate insurance coverage, you can't afford to travel. It's that simple. We recommend World Nomads, which isn't the cheapest of policies, but they are who we use ourselves, every single time we travel. The travel insurance market in the UK is extremely price competitive -- shop around but read the policies very carefully and watch out for exclusions and limited payouts.

Insurance: Does your cover include riding on the roof of the bus from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang? If so, do it!

Highlight: Never needing to use your travel insurance.
Lowlight: Finding out that your medical coverage excluded activities in Southeast Asia (see point 54,876 in 2-point text on page 453 of your policy).

RTW flights
Shop around but be sure to call Stuart

If you're going to travel around the world, not surprisingly a round-the-world ticket can be a sound investment -- not always though. Look at your route planning, see what works with low-cost carriers, though be wary of their neverending surcharges. Saving $10 by spending 14 hours waiting for your next flight isn't always the most intelligent way to save money. Consider getting a RTW ticket that takes you to a hub (say Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok or Singapore) and then do all your regional flights with an LCC like AirAsia, Jetstar or Tiger. When flying domestically in Indonesia we would only fly Garuda or AirAsia. When researching your RTW, call Stuart at RTW Flights -- he knows his stuff. Really.

RTW flights: Be sure to book flights that includes fluffy white clouds.

Highlight: All this planning is loads of fun. Finding out that saving yourself $300 on flights just got you an extra 10 days in Thailand.
Lowlight: Scummy add-ons that all the airlines carry on with.

Lingo
Hello, good bye and thankyou

You're on a year-long trip going to perhaps a dozen or more countries. We don't expect you to gain fluency in the language of every country you travel in, but anyone can learn the very basics: hello, good-bye, thank you. Try it with a smile and the locals will laugh with you, not at you.

Lingo: How do I say "Can I take your photo while your friend picks your nose?"

Highlight: Having even a rudimentary interaction with a local that doesn't involve saying, "Can I have two beers please?"
Lowlight: Travelling the entire year without learning a single word of local language.

Slow down
Less is more

If you're travelling every other day, you'll need to holiday at the end of your holiday to take a breath. Look at your itinerary and cut it in half. You need AT LEAST three weeks to have an enjoyable top to tail trip of Vietnam. You cannot "do" Southeast Asia in a month. Plus, with a slower itinerary, you've got some play up your sleeve should you want to reorganise.

Slow down: Plan all your travels by cyclo.

Highlight: Realising you have a week up your sleeve so you can stay that extra four days in the hammock.
Lowlight: Spending your entire trip on the move. Seeing everything and experiencing nothing.

Take care
Roads are just as hard in Asia

If you fall off your motorbike you'll find that the road is just as hard here as it is in your home country. Wear a helmet. Dress sensibly. Don't ride drunk. Other random tips: Don't get trashed and walk home alone at 3am carrying a $2,000 camera on your shoulder. Don't flaunt your wealth. Stay in control. Never hit a police officer. You're not special and you're not entitled to special privileges like smoking weed in a cafe in Singapore.

Safety: Always stick your head out the train window.

Highlight: Staying alive.
Lowlight: Not.

Lend a hand
Some pointers for volunteering

Volunteering is growing in popularity. Consider why you want to volunteer. What are you trying to achieve? Who are you trying to help? If you're not willing to pay to volunteer, think about why not. Research the various organisations carefully. Many of them are scams. Never volunteer to work in an orphanage -- children are not there for tourists. What skills do you actually have that will be helpful? Research, research, research and choose carefully. It's not about you.

Volunteering: "I flew here from Toronto to turn earth".

Highlights: Contributing in a meaningful manner that benefits the recipients.
Lowlights: Find out that the $3,000 you paid to dig holes in a paddock in the middle of nowhere deprived a local of a job and bought the organiser's son a MacBook Pro.

Have fun
You'll learn loads and have a blast doing it

You've learnt loads in the last decade or so of education. Travel is the next step and can be a fabulous experience, but you need to earn it. To get the most out of your trip, make the effort to learn about the people, countries and cultures you're experiencing. Take what you learn and treasure it.

Travel is one of life's great adventures.

Fish vendors frantically lug their buckets into the shadows. A gang of photographers emerge from the woodwork to snatch a spot near the old train track/footpath. Several men hastily lower the market's makeshift roofs as pineapples and mangosteens tumble from their baskets. A lazy day at Samut Songkhram's small but tightly packed Mae Khlong market has instantly transformed into a chaotic spectacle. Turning around, I realise why: "That train's not going to try coming through here, is it?"

Could that be a hint?

This small market along the Mae Khlong river some 70 kilometres southwest of Bangkok goes by the local nickname "talaat sieng thay", which loosely translates to "dangerous but you have to go anyway market". At first glance, the market doesn't seem "dangerous" in the least, but it is cramped. As I push my way through an especially crowded section of the narrow train-tracks that are used as the market's main footpath, it strikes me how I can hardly fit through an area that, at some point anyway, was wide enough for a train to pass through.

It's one of those kids' carnival trains right?

My first impression is that this a great place to pick up fresh fruit, vegetables and spices, and I find the market to boast a particularly fine selection of fresh fish, including no shortage of the Samut Songkhram specialty pla tuu (mackerel). Although most vendors sell fresh foods to be prepared later on, a handful offer ready-to-eat finger foods for munching as you walk.

Like grilled frogs on a stick, for example.

Apart from its impressive selection of fish and curious setting around old train-tracks near the river, Mae Khlong reminds me of countless other Thailand wet markets: colourful, eclectic, pungent, hot and tight. Of course, from a Western point of view, markets like this are anything but ordinary.

I bet she'll like spicy food when she grows up.

Then, just past noon, something extraordinary starts to happen. At the drop of a hat, the entire market moves away from the train tracks, squeezing adult, child, table and product into the dark inner network of corridors a couple of metres away from the main selling zone around the tracks. The scene has echoes of a mediaeval village swiftly shuttering indoors to make way for a mob of pillaging hooligans. A local vendor yells at a handful of photographers still on the tracks while flapping his arms like a pelican cleaning its wings: "Move to the sides! Move to the sides!"

Is it an alien space craft? A herd of wild elephants? A mob of political protestors?

Within 15 seconds of the first signs of something bizarre taking shape, I turn around and ...

"Holy **** it's a train!!!"

Those narrow, ancient looking tracks that I was struggling to fit through minutes earlier are now being occupied by a full-size steel locomotive. "Did the train take a wrong turn? Am I in the midst of a vivid dream based on that Denzel Washington movie about an out-of-control train?" These thoughts run through my mind as I stand no more than a half metre from steel wheels rolling centimetres above displays of rambutan and lychee.

One second I'm sampling fruit, and the next I'm diving out of the way of a speeding train.

In reality, the train is going about its daily routine of picking up and dropping off a handful of passengers from the seemingly defunct rail station located directly on the banks of the river near the market. In less than one minute, the entire place goes like clockwork from relaxed market, to chaos, to train, and back to relaxed market.

"Yawn -- what train?"

About 15 minutes later, when the train makes its return trip through the market, the entire scene repeats itself. This time, I catch a decent photo of this ludicrous, dangerous and hilarious spectacle.

It will do more than just hurt if you don't stay out of the way!

It's indeed a jaw-dropping experience to see a full size train come cruising through a tight market. With that said, use caution if you go, and remember that you're not seeing things in line with reality when looking through the lens of a camera. The train moves fast for such close quarters and accidents have happened in the past (and I don't just mean a watermelon getting run over).

And just like that, it rolls away.

The easiest way to get here is to catch a mini-bus from Bangkok's Victory Monument to Samut Songkhram (make sure to tell them you're heading to "Talaat Mae Khlong"), which leave every hour from early morning to late afternoon and cost 80 baht one-way. Local regular buses may also be caught from Bangkok's Sai Tai Mai (southern) bus terminal (again, let them know where you're headed), and both regular and minibuses congregate at a bus stop near the market at the corner of Rattan Witthi Road and Ratpasit Road in Samut Songkhram.

The market can also be reached by train and a short ferry hop across the Cha Chin river in Samut Sakhon, in which case you would be in the train as it enters the market and would miss the photo-op from outside. With that said, the train -- which will eventually leave you at Wongwian Yai rail station near the BTS (sky train) stop with the same name in Thonburi -- looks to be a relaxing and picturesque ride back to Bangkok.

If looking to explore further in the area, an army of tuk tuks and songthaews in front of Rama II hospital near the market are always ready and waiting to take you to nearby Amphawa, Tha Kha and Damnoen Saduak. Although the floating markets of these destinations are only open on Saturday and Sunday, Mae Khlong market is open daily, with trains typically arriving at 09:30, 11:30 and 15:00.

Story by David Luekens.

Kuala Lumpur has a vibrant nightlife, which may be surprising to some as the city is the capital of a Muslim-majority country. But KL offers something to suit all tastes once the sun dips, from low-key neighbourhood pubs through to cutting-edge clubs. Whatever kind of place rocks your boat, a near-universal feature is how relaxed and friendly everything is. It's refreshingly easy in KL for strangers to become drinking buddies.

Another less welcome shared characteristic is how expensive alcoholic drinks are in KL. For travellers on a tight budget, this is not a city to get drunk in. A small bottle of beer, at even the cheapest Chinese coffee shop, will still set you back eight ringgit. At a proper bar or pub, you'll be lucky get away with twice that amount. Happy hours and other promotions can soften the pain, but only abstinence can fully protect travellers against serious wallet-trauma.

Mix your boozing with a touch of tattooing.

The vast majority of non-seedy drinking dens in KL serve food as well, and characterise themselves as a restoran dan bar/pub (restaurant and bar/pub). They generally have a mix of indoor and outdoor seating, and a relaxed, unpretentious atmosphere. Two great examples are Ceylon Bar and Havana, which sit less than 100 metres apart, at the top end of Changkat Bukit Bintang.

Around the corner from Ceylon and Havana is superb cafe-bar Palate Palette. With its funky decor, alternative vibe and friendly staff, this is a million miles away from the generic pubs that litter the city's upmarket shopping centres. Not that a cold beer in one of these places is unpleasant, just a bit bland ... and overpriced.

Overpriced certainly but not at all bland are KL's crop of hotel rooftop bars, with stunning views of the city. G-Tower has not one but two of them, the exclusive Bridge Bar, suspended between two towers, and the somewhat more democratic View Bar.

View from the Sky Bar

Classy Luna Bar, at the top of the Pacific Regency, is one of KL's most romantic spots for a date, but in terms of views, nothing can rival Sky Bar, on the 33rd floor of Traders Hotel.

For the most part, KL's live music scene is rather disappointing, split between massive venues which host bland international acts, and pub rock bands playing bad cover versions, or worse still, their own derivative material. So if you want something a little more original, it's rather slim pickings.

One of the few venues where music is the main attraction rather than a sideshow is the excellent No Black Tie. Every month, this jazz and blues institution plays host to a steady stream of local and overseas artists. Although principally a cafe-bar and best known for its wicked desserts, Alexis Ampang is also a strong supporter of live jazz and blues.

"Man, if you have to ask what jazz is, you'll never know."

La Bodega Lounge provides an intimate, laidback venue for free live music, although it does suffer from a lot of customer noise during performances. For something a bit more cutting edge, then a trio venues best known for other forms of entertainment -- Laundry, Palate Palette and The Actors Studio -- also host regular gigs by local indie bands.

The KL clubbing scene can be broadly divided into the crowd-pleasers and the too-cool-for-school brigade. The former tend to be more fun, particularly if you do not share the local obsession with R&B and hip hop. The only constant about the city's clubs is change -- with venues (and nights) arriving and disappearing at a dizzying pace.

Most clubs in KL have a dress code (for men), which generally comes down to no sandals/flip flops, no shorts and no singlets. This is aimed primarily at non-Malaysians, because locals tend to get very dressed up for big nights out. Admission is usually reasonable or even free, but once inside, drinks are almost uniformly expensive.

In terms of areas, KLCC offers a huge variety of nightlife options, with everything from the tacky charms of the Beach Club, to the city's leading super-club, Zouk. Both these very different venues have stood the test of time, primarily by giving their respective punters what they want.

Giant woman hiding behind the bar at Havana.

Over recent years, Bukit Bintang has gone from strength to strength in terms of nightlife, particularly on and around Changkat Bukit Bintang. As well as proper clubs like Frangipani and Bedroom, the area also has a number of bar-cum-eateries with small dance floors. Top picks include Twenty One and Werner's, which are both great choices if you fancy a good dance without the rigmarole and cost of a nightclub.

Asian Heritage Row has lost much of its buzz over recent years, although venues such as @Loft are still popular with younger clubbers. Bangsar Baru too is not as happening as it once was, much to the relief of local residents sick of being kept awake at night. But with KLCC and Bukit Bintang more than taking up the slack, KL's nightlife really is one of the city's unsung delights.

Story by Pat Fama.

From the sublime to the ridiculous to the frankly plain unpleasant, Southeast Asia is not short on memorable animal experiences. There's the moment when the baby turtles you release from their hatchery scuttle across the sand on implausibly huge flippers towards the sea and take off for their lifelong journey. And then there's the time an adolescent temple monkey inserts what you think is a finger in your ear, and begins intercourse ...

Hardship post.

Now, for those in quest of photo opportunities, the sub-continent provides. You can ride elephants in Laos, Cambodia, Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia (but should you?); lurch uncomfortably atop a fetid, irritable camel in the celebrated deserts of southern Bali (that's sarcasm, the bit about the desert); cuddle tigers in Thailand (you most definitely shouldn't); wrangle snakes; and get up close and (sometimes) all-too personal with monkeys aplenty.

More obscurely, and for most more rewardingly, you can hear the chirruping song of the world's smallest primate, the tarsier, or the helicopter chug of a hornbill's wings as it wop-wop-wops from tree to tree, in northern Sulawesi, Indonesia, or Bohol in the Philippines.

Watching a family of tarsiers emerge from their home within a strangling fig, enormous eyes gleaming in the twilight, and spring after bugs on their tiny limbs, is extraordinary.

So too are orangutans, the "people of the woods" found only in the forests of Sumatra and Borneo. The mothers swing like hirsute trapeze artists, high through the trees, babies clinging to their fur.

You scratch my back...

In Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines, you can snorkel or dive with manta rays. These enormous creatures, some five metres across, skim the water like animated opera cloaks, their 'mouths' a turquoise wedge.

The first sight of a dolphin in the wild, leaping from the water, or flying fish, threading the surface of the sea, is something few forget.

Seen those? In Kratie, Cambodia, and Four Thousand Islands, Laos, endangered, freshwater Irrawaddy dolphins play in the vast expanse of the Mekong.

Islands off Borneo and elsewhere bring sea turtles from as far afield as Australia to lay their eggs. The rare and elusive dugong graze on seagrass around several Indonesian and Thai islands.

In Tarakan, Indonesian Borneo, walking fish rise up from the mangrove swamp on their fins, and scuttle from puddle to puddle, while long-nosed, ginger proboscis monkeys play in the trees.

Hanging out on Pulau Derawan.

In Mulu National Park, in Malaysian Borneo, you can watch millions upon millions of bats swarm like bees from the mouth of the vast Deer Cave. (As with anything involving flying creatures, looking up with your mouth open is highly unwise.)

Southeast Asian animal experiences encompass the contradictions of the region. There are moments of Hello Kitty cuteness, easy to achieve and highly photogenic, often concealing conditions that are the animal equivalent of a Bangladeshi factory.

And there are wild experiences, real, dramatic and beautiful - but subject to the vagaries of weather, tides and, well, animal behaviour.

Which to go for? It's a matter of personal choice.

A number of places in Thailand offer the chance to be photographed with tigers of various ages - and [ed: in theory] contribute to their conservation project as you do. And cuddling a tiger cub, or posing, strongman style, with an adult predator, is an offer that some find hard to resist.

It's worth noting that most conservationists consider these businesses to be contributing to the danger of extinction. By sourcing their endangered species from different populations, and mingling these populations, they create cross-breeds that would not, and could not, have existed in the wild, and so can never be reintroduced.

Plaything for patting? No.

It's also worth considering exactly what methods are used to prevent the passing tourist going the way of Roy, from Siegfried & Roy. And why there are so many cubs in proportion to the adult tigers - particularly given the flourishing Chinese black market for tiger body parts...

[ed: Travelfish.org has a very strong position on this: anywhere in Southeast Asia that allows casual visitors to pat or pose for photos with tigers should be avoided. This is especially the case with the Tiger Temple in Kanchanaburi. For more information regarding why the Tiger Temple should be avoided, see here and, more recently, here.]

The decline in legal logging and the mechanisation of illegal logging means that elephants are no longer working animals in most of Asia. But elephant performances, and elephant rides, even in places where elephants were never found in the wild or used as working animals, are a big part of many a tourist experience.

An elephant ride is a once-in-a-lifetime experience for most with good reason. There's the height, for starters. The pointed stick the mahouts use, for seconds. And the swaying, rolling, lurching motion, second only to riding a camel for sheer, seasick discomfort...

Hands on in the right environment can be memorable & helpful for all.

So too is feeding the monkeys that flourish at and around many Southeast Asian temples, from Angkor Wat to Bali's various monkey forests, fruit and vegetables sold at surrounding stands. Plus, of course, whatever the big males can "liberate" from visitors' bags and pockets.

Cheeky? Thuggish? Or just plain unpleasant?

That depends, I guess, what they do in your ear.

For nature lovers, UNESCO-listed Khao Yai national park is one of Asia's best. Spanning some 2,168 square kilometres over three provinces, Thailand's grandest and oldest national park is home to thriving communities of plants and wildlife along with stunning jungle, mountains and waterfalls, all accessible from a sizable network of roads, hiking trails, cabins and campsites.

Still, many who make the trip have little idea how to approach the park from a logistical standpoint. Unlike Khao Sok national park down south, or the majority of Thailand's major destinations for that matter, tourist infrastructure near the park is almost exclusively aimed at local Thai travellers. The area lacks that strip of guesthouses and travel companies solely focusing on getting foreign travellers what they need.

The good news is that, while a bit of a challenge, Khao Yai is still very much doable for foreign, independent-minded travellers.

Signposts are few and far between.

Approaching the park
The main entrance to Khao Yai is on the north side of the park in Nakhon Ratchasima province, some 20 kilometres south of the town of Pak Chong. The majority of hotels near the park are in this area, particularly along route 2090 (aka Thanarat Road), which shoots directly from Pak Chong down to the Khao Yai gates.

Khao Yai's southern entrance -- the "back door" -- lies some 60 kilometres northeast of the city of Nakhon Nayok. Although there are a few resorts just outside the southern gates, your best bet (assuming you don't have your own wheels) is to catch a bus or minibus to Pak Chong town and make your arrangements from there.

As there are no travel companies in Pak Chong to take your hand like they do in other places, it may take some effort to find your way. However, rest assured that the town has everything you need -- hotels and guesthouses, markets, restaurants, car and motorbike rental, taxis for hire, train, bus and minibus stations, and cheap public transport that can take you right to the Khao Yai gates.

Four legs faster than two.

Khao Yai option # 1: On foot
If wanting to do the park independently without hiring a vehicle, it is possible to see a good amount on foot. Large songthaews shuttle travellers from the centre of Pak Chong to the Khao Yai gates throughout the day, which is the cheapest way to get there. Keep in mind, however, that taking a songthaew would entail hitching or huffing the 10-plus kilometres from the front gates to the visitor centre, and another two kilometres to reach the campgrounds.

National park vehicles and private motorists are likely willing to let a few backpackers hop on board as they pass, but if wanting to avoid that whole situation, private pick-up truck taxis may be caught from the centre of Pak Chong. These can bring you all the way to the visitor centre or campground for around 300 baht, but be sure to arrange for pick up if wanting the same service on the way out.

Cabins are available for rent behind the visitor centre or a couple of kilometres further south in the quieter Thanarat zone, and there are also two picturesque campgrounds, Lam Takong and Pha Kluai Mai. A network of hiking trails, which include one leading to Heo Suwat waterfall (made famous by the Leonardo DiCaprio flick, The Beach), are easily accessed from all of the above accommodation zones, but the campgrounds are especially central with major trails beginning at each of them. Both campgrounds are in idyllic settings, perfect for enjoying Khao Yai the slow and relaxed way.

Keep in mind that hiking the trails without a guide after 15:00 is not recommended; you don't want to get lost and end up stuck in the jungle overnight. Certified private guides can be arranged at the visitor centre for 500 baht per three hours.

Breakfast, lunch or dinner?

As for food, restaurants run by the national park serve basic Thai fare at all accommodation zones, although hours are limited. A handful of convenience stores sell water and other necessities in several points throughout the park.

If you've got the time, patience and energy to do some serious hiking, setting up camp and relying only on your two feet to get around is a great way to see Khao Yai. However, one spot that would be beyond the reach for most hikers is the park's largest and most impressive waterfall, Haew Narok, which is situated far to the southern end of the park. If heading in and out by taxi, you might negotiate a side-trip to Haew Narok as it really should not be missed.

Khao Yai option # 2: On wheels
It may be expensive, but Khao Yai is particularly conducive to exploring by car. A main road snakes through the park from north to south along with a handful of rugged side roads, and virtually all of the trails, viewpoints, waterfalls and other sights can be accessed from these roads. Depending on your budget, you might have to miss the full day treks and camping experience, but a single full day with a car is enough to see all the highlights and leave you feeling like Khao Yai has been covered.

Cars may be rented for 1,500 baht per day at Rimtarninn Hotel, which is easy to find near the centre of Pak Chong (you'll need a passport and international driver's license). As already mentioned, pick-up truck taxis are also available in Pak Chong centre for those who would prefer someone else do the driving. For 1,500 baht, a taxi will spend a full day taking you anywhere you wish to go.

Time to cool off.

Going by motorbike is an adventurous option that's nowhere near as pricey as renting a car and doesn't limit you in terms of distance. Motorbikes can be rented at Petch Motors near the centre of Pak Chong town. There's no sign in English, but Petch is a motorbike sales shop occupying the bottom floor of a three-storey white building with tinted blue windows on the upper floors, right next to Memorial Hospital (on the right if heading east away from the centre of town where the night market sets up). They speak English and are happy to rent out bikes for 300 baht per day, but be sure to fuel up at a station just outside the park -- you might even consider bringing along some extra fuel and a funnel if wanting to spend more than a day exploring without leaving the park.

Khao Yai opion # 3: On tour
If all of the above sounds too tricky, several tour companies offer programmes to fit differing interests and budgets. We've received several positive first-hand accounts from customers of budget-minded Green Leaf Tour, which also run a quality budget guesthouse along the road from Pak Chong to Khao Yai. They run a particularly flexible operation that can pick you up at the bus stop or train station in Pak Chong and shuttle you straight to their guesthouse or onto one of their pick-up trucks for a guided tour.

It's also worth mentioning that it's not necessary to go exclusively independent or exclusively with a tour program. We talked to a handful of travellers who took the half-day Greenleaf tour, but asked to be dropped at one of the campgrounds instead of being shuttled back to the guesthouse outside the park. They enjoyed three days and nights of hiking the park on their own and sleeping to the sounds of the jungle, arranging for the tour company to pick them up when they were good and ready to move on. This seems like a good option, especially considering the tour company is willing to arrange transport for customers who took the tour days earlier.

Other points to consider
No matter which option you choose, don't forget to pop into the brand new visitor centre, which we must say is nothing short of a proper science and nature museum in the heart of the park. It would seem that handing out maps and information at the front gates would be a good idea, but for some reason these are only available at the visitor centre. Unless you can produce a Thai work permit, the entrance fee to Khao Yai for foreigners is 400 baht, good for one entrance only.

Not a tailor shop in sight.

While bicycles are currently only rented for use by some resorts within their grounds outside the park, we learned of a group planning to open a bike rental and cycling tour operation in the Khao Yai area. If you're a cyclist reading this a little down the track, you may want to investigate whether it managed to get off the ground.

Finally, although Khao Yai is the main draw in this area, a great deal to see lies in the general vicinity outside the park. If you can manage it, the Khao Yai wine country and Chet Sao Noi waterfall in Muak Lek to the west, and mountainous Wang Nam Kiew to the east are each worth a side-trip.

And there you have it: whether you choose to see it independently, as part of a tour, or a little of each, majestic Khao Yai national park is beckoning. Don't forget your hiking shoes, and keep quiet -- an elephant may be lurking behind that tree!

More information
Khao Yai National Park
T: (025) 620 760

Rimtarninn Hotel & Car Rental
430 Mittraphap Rd, Pak Chong
T: (044) 313 3656
rimtarninn@yahoo.com

Petch Motor
361/3 Mittraphap Rd, Pak Chong
T: (044) 280 248 ; (081) 718 2400

Greenleaf Guesthouse & Tour
52 Moo 6, Thanarat Rd (km 7.5), Pak Chong
T: (044) 365 073 ; F: (089) 424 8809

Hanoi may not be the bargain it once used to be, but there are still some great deals to be had, from budget right through to luxury. It's a jungle out there, with so many options; here are our picks for the best spots to stay in Hanoi to help you narrow down what might be best for you.

Whereas once it was feasible to find a semi-decent private room for under US$10, solo travellers on a tight budget now have no option except dorm beds. Fortunately dorm-bed availability has grown notably in the past few years so there's plenty of choice.

The stand out option is the reasonably new Hanoi Backpackers' Hostel on Ma May. It not only stands out because of its size –- it's massive -– and the noise that emanates from its downstairs bar, but also for the quality of the accommodation. For US$6 a night you get a larger than average single bed with decent bedding, and handy extras like your own light and valuables locker. It's a particularly good option for the more sociable travellers as the downstairs bar and guest-only lounge provides plenty of opportunities to meet new friends.

Pick of the budget bunch.

For more of a hotel-style environment, try May de Ville Backpackers Hostel on Ta Hien. Another monster-sized building, it has a mix of dorm beds and private rooms. The dorm beds are sizeable, with six to a room along with a bathroom, and there's a pool room and movie theatre. The place is super clean, the staff is friendly and to top it off, it's less than a minute from international bia hoi corner.

If you prefer a smaller set-up, Little Hanoi Hotel is a good option. Book early as it gets busy and they only have one dorm room.

If you don't want to share, but money's still tight, the cheapest decent option we've found is Phu Hoa. It won't be to everyone's taste, as there are no mod cons, staff don't speak English and the staircase is particularly narrow and steep, but it's centrally located, clean and certainly has some character. Rooms are around US$10.

It's a mad rush to get the best rooms in Hanoi.

To have any great choice you need to spend at least US$15. At around that pricepoint, Camellia 6 Hotel, on Trung Yen Lane, is our top pick: standard rooms are small but comfortable, with fridges, hairdryers and a window, or spend a bit more for a deluxe.

Another good option is Stars Hotel on Bat Su. US$17 gets you a double room with window and, if you're at the front, a cute balcony. It's on a quiet street too, with plenty of street food options -– particularly pho –- nearby.

Or jump up slightly into the midrange and for US$25 you can get one of the cheapest rooms at popular Hanoi Cozy 2 on Hang Be. It offers great value for the price, especially as breakfast is included, staff are friendly and the location is central.

You get what you pay for.

Also in the midrange, Art Hotel on Hang Dieu has tastefully decorated, well-equipped rooms starting from US$35 and going up to US$50 for the family suite, which comes with a very appealing outside terrace area. Recommended.

Once you start spending more than US$50, the world of boutique hotels opens up. Hang Trong is the place to start as it's home to Maison d'Hanoi, Golden Lotus and Golden Rice, all of which offer fantastic rooms, though all very different in style: Golden Rice is the most traditional, Maison d'Hanoi the coolest and most elegant, and Golden Lotus merges traditional touches with modern styling to, in our opinion, be the best value of the lot.

Hotels within Hanoi's Elegance group are also worth checking out. Five of their hotels are dotted around Hoan Kiem: Essence Hanoi on Ta Hien, Hanoi Elite on nearby Dao Duy Tu, Diamond to the east and Sapphire towards St Joseph's Cathedral are around US$50 whereas Ruby offers cheaper options.

"We found the concierge to be a little too formal for our taste..."

Hotels for this price come with in-room facilities such as tea- and coffee-making facilities, robes and toiletries, and staff will be well-dressed, well-trained and helpful, but don't expect a pool or much of a restaurant or bar. For that you'll need to move into the luxury category.

If money really is no object, and luxury's your want, then look no further than the Sofitel Metropole Legend. It really lives up to its reputation as Vietnam's top hotel and is worth a splurge: rooms start at around $200 a night. If you don't want to stay there but fancy a treat, pop in for afternoon tea or a session at the luxurious spa.

A two-person dorm at the Intercontinental.

Although lacking the historic prestige of the Metropole, the InterContinental is still a worthy alternative, offering excellent rooms and facilities in a more open –- read, less crowded -- environment. Rooms can be picked up for just over US$100 on online booking sites. Both the Metropole and the InterContinental have all you'd expect from a five-star hotel: a pool, spa, restaurants, bars and great service.

Overall, Hanoi is certainly not lacking in choice and range of accommodation, but look out for deals in advance, particularly if you're spending in the midrange or above price range. If you're going budget do your homework and check review sites before you arrive to get the most for your money and avoid the dodgy joints -– of which there are a few.

More resources
More detailed Hanoi hotel reviews on the Vietnam blog
Full list of Hanoi hotels and guesthouses on Travelfish.org
Hanoi hotels on Agoda

That flash of white cliff you see from Bali's Sanur hulking in the far distance shouldn't be ignored if you have a sense of adventure and want to get away from the busy south part of the island. Nusa Penida, which centuries ago served as a gaol for the less desirable characters of the Gelgel dynasty, is easily reachable by boat from Bali or neighbouring Nusa Lembongan. Its mostly natural attractions can be seen over two days; here are some of the rugged limestone island's highlights.

Looking toward Bali's Gunung Agung from seaweed-rich Nusa Penida.

First up you'll need to hire a motorbike and we'd suggest a driver as well. Expect to pay 70,000 rupiah a day for a bike, or around 120,000 rupiah a day for a bike plus driver, including petrol. You'll be met by a few eager guys at Toyapakeh, where you'll alight from your boat; English-speaking Rod is the key fixer, but a few other guys offering their services, including the helpful and lovely Dayat, whom we used on our last visit -- he speaks just a little English.

Horse country, without the horses.

Zip around first toward the market town of Sampalan; just before you get there is the Friends of the National Park Foundation, which runs a conservation programme for the dwindling Bali starling population. A few of the birds are in a large cage on site but the foundation's focus is on trying to get the birds to breed in the wild on Nusa Penida, and they've had some success to date with several of their wooden boxes holding eggs during our visit. They told us the birds are not released on the Bali mainland as poachers snap them up too quickly; they're worth about 20 million rupiah each on the black market.

Smile!

Continue next to Pura Goa Giri Putri, a temple attached to a massive cave with a tiny triangular stone entrance way (it's also known as Karangsari cave temple). If you're claustrophobic you may freak out at just how miniscule the entrance is. I didn't think I'd be able to do it but one of the guys there went ahead of me and insisted I try; once you're down on your haunches you can see the cave opens up and it's not so difficult to skedaddle in. Behind is a huge, dark, chilled interior with concreted footpaths and various Hindu shrines; it feels like quite an astounding discovery.

It's a temple too.

Next stop is Tanglad, a traditional weaving village where you can see looms in action and buy some fabric as well. It's a very low-key set up, and on our last visit it was a ceremony day so everything was shut up, though the temples were dressed very nicely.

It's ceremony time at Tanglud.

It's quite a drive next to Guyangan waterfall, which you can scramble down 200 metres of cliff face to see up close if you're a little bit of a daredevil. We viewed it from the top of one of Nusa Penida's cliffs, then walked up some safely concreted stairs to sip on the chilled fresh springwater, pumped up to a water station nearby.

Looks good from here.

If your butt muscles are holding up, it's time for a swim at gorgeous Crystal Bay where daytripping snorkellers and sunbathers are shuttled in from Bali -- sunfish can be found in the bay at the right time. Half the grass off the beach is petitioned off with facilities for Bali Hai cruise tourists, while the rest is a coconut grove with a warung where you can sip a coconut and catch your breath.

Swing on by Crystal Bay.

Head back to your digs for a good sleep and on your second day you can do a spot of sunrise birdwatching -- arrange it through the FNPF -- it's all very informal. Then it's time to head to Nusa Penida's highest point, about 520 metres above sea level, where wind turbines have been installed. To and from this area you'll have fantastic views and scoot through some more desolate but beautiful landscape of the island: think cassava, papaya, bananas, breadfruit, coconut palms and teak trees.

So parasailing should take off here.

Then it's off to Manta Point or Banah cliffs, where your breath will be snatched from you as you realise how very close you are to falling to your death over the edge of sheer soaring rock. Manta rays are known to congregate in this bay when conditions are right, but on my visit I missed out.

Not bad, eh?

You'll find much of Nusa Penida a little unpredictable -- will you find a guide who knows their way? will a ceremony shutter the cave temple? -- but travelling across such a stunning landscape is more about the journey than the actual attractions you see necessarily along the way. Wear a helmet, take water and savour every minute.

With its stunning UNESCO-listed ruins steeped in Khmer-Thai history, central Thailand's Sukhothai is a must for historically and spiritually inclined travellers. The area is split into two distinct districts: old Sukhothai, which is home to the historical park, and the inviting if not charming riverside city of new Sukhothai some 12 kilometres east of the ruins. Great places to stay can be found in both old and new -- but which is right for you?

Hmm, new or old Sukhothai?
Both old and new have advantages and disadvantages, so it's truly a matter of which area suits you. To clarify, new Sukhothai is actually very old, evidenced by the many centuries-old wood houses and temples that line the streets. It's referred to as "new" because it was settled after the original Sukhothai capital, which is now a historical park. More accurate names would be "Ancient Sukhothai" for the old town and "Old Sukhothai" for the new.

So many fine guesthouse options in Sukhothai.

The main benefit of staying in the old city is that you are within walking/bicycling distance of the historical park's front gates, and therefore don't need to rely on the dusty (although charming by some accounts) 12 kilometre shared songthaew ride to get there. A handful of resort-style options are also tucked down a picturesque road about one kilometre from the ruins, and these are some of the better choices around if seeking a more isolated and romantic experience. New Sukhothai also boasts some relaxing places to stay, however, and there's a lot more going on in the new part of town.

In Sukhothai, free bicycles are always a nice add-on.

What about food?
While the road leading up to the historical park in old Sukhothai has plenty of places to eat, most of them are your typical touristy "Thai-European" restaurants with voluminous menus and pricey but mediocre food. On the other hand, new Sukhothai is a lively but intimate city with a particularly fantastic food scene, including some notably good traveller-oriented restaurants and several cheap but memorable local specialties. Here you'll find a plethora of street carts selling distinctive Thai sweets for take away and hole-in-the-wall eateries serving up cheap but delicious north-central Thai cuisine, including the not-to-be-missed kwit-tieau Sukhothai (Sukhothai noodles).

Sukhothai noodles can be found in Old Sukhothai as well, but New Sukhothai also boasts several markets, including a photogenic day market where you can glimpse mountains of dried chillies and sample the area's abundant fresh fruit. Other culinary draws of the new city include a few Thai-style bakeries and cafes worth seeking out, and even an outstanding Italian restaurant.

Pull up a pew.

What if I want to catch a late night bus?
A handful of buses depart in the mornings and early afternoons for Chiang Mai, Phitsanulok and Bangkok from a small bus stop in old Sukhothai, but the main bus terminal is in new Sukhothai, making the new city slightly more convenient in terms of transport.

Although Sukhothai's signature motorised trishaws (they look like backwards tuk tuks) can be found in the old city, they're everywhere in new Sukhothai, and pink songthaews are also readily available in the new side of town. In brief, new Sukhothai is the provincial centre while old Sukhothai is somewhat out of the way.

Simple digs at TR Guesthouse.

So which will it be?
If you enjoy relaxing into a real Thai town while soaking up a colourful atmosphere and exploring the local food scene, then new Sukhothai is the way to go. If, on the other hand, you're happy with a strip of tourist-oriented restaurants and simply want to be close to the ruins, or perhaps are looking for a more isolated resort-style experience, old Sukhothai is probably for you.

Where to stay in new Sukhothai?
At the backpacker end of the spectrum, the ever-popular TR Guesthouse has developed a top-notch reputation thanks to its laidback yet accommodating owners and some of the best value rooms we've seen anywhere in the country. Just 250 baht for a single or 300 for a double will bag you an airy and comfortable room with powerful fan and hot water shower, or for just 400 baht (450 for a double) you can upgrade to one of the large and stylish wood bungalows hidden in the garden out back.

Tucked down an out-of-the-way lane just past TR, Hang Jeng Guesthouse oozes character with its spacious and unique rooms, all of which sport hardwood floors, woven bamboo walls and air-con for just 450 baht. The guesthouse's classic atmosphere reminded us of a re-furbished colonial era home turned museum, and the friendly staff along with a network of spacious verandas with mountain views landed Hang Jeng a spot near the top of our new city accommodation list. Did I mention the pro size table tennis spread downstairs?

Jungle atmosphere at No. 4.

Further away from the centre of town, but still within walking distance, the quirky No. 4 Guesthouse offers simple but cheerful bamboo bungalows with mosquito nets and partially open-air bathrooms for 250 baht. Loads of tropical plants and an army of carved wooden turtles left us wondering if Colonel Kurtz might be lurking somewhere in this rather exotic setting. No. 4 isn't the place for those who get freaked out at the sight of a gecko, but the young, spirited owners made us feel like sticking around, as did the notion of a cheap late afternoon Thai massage on the bungalow porch.

If seeking a little more space and an even quieter setting, the newer Phuaroon Resort offers outstanding value in the form of classy wooden bungalows at 400 baht or bright and airy villa style rooms at 600 baht, both of which come with air-con. For what's considered backpacker rates in most destinations, Phuaroon offers loads of comfort and plenty of in-room extras, including fridges, TVs, sitting areas with woven basket couches and big, fresh smelling bathrooms complete with tasteful ceramic bowl sinks. It also happens to be a three-minute walk from the bus station, although the Sukhothai songthaew operators don't want you to know that.

The very homely Phuaroon Resort.

In search of a little more elegance? If you can afford it, the luscious Lotus Village remains new Sukhothai's overall standout choice with its irresistible dark wood bungalows in the 950 to 1,600 baht range, some of which sit on stilts over pools filled with water lilies and tropical fish. The polished hardwood floors are a joy to walk on with bare feet, and every last detail of the finely toned decor is ever so tasteful. After enjoying Lotus Village's exceptional spa, you might grab a seat by the tranquil lotus pond surrounded by lush gardens, or take a peek at the impressive on-site art boutique.

Where to stay in old Sukhothai?
Our top budget choice in the old city remains long-running Old City Guesthouse, which is set back from the main road a stone's throw from the historical park gates. If pinching your cash, settle into a basic 150 baht room in the 350 year-old Thai wood house that looks like it belongs in nearby Ramkamhaeng Museum. While these come with shared bathroom facilities, Old City also offers less inspiring but perfectly comfortable fan and air-con rooms with optional TVs and fridges for 400-600 baht.

Apart from Old City Guesthouse and nearby Vitoon Guesthouse, which offers far less compelling rooms at similar rates, the trend in Old Sukhothai is swiftly moving upmarket. A pleasant side road near the historical park is home to Thai Thai Guesthouse and neighbouring Orchid Hibiscus Guesthouse, both of which offer more of a resort feel along with similarly comfortable wood bungalows and polished concrete rooms in the 800 to 1,800 baht range.

A cute garden cottage at Thai Thai.

The spotless rooms at Thai Thai feature fridges and TVs to go with carefully placed traditional Thai artwork while the older Orchid Hibiscus offers a little more character and a few higher end rooms with private outdoor jacuzzis. Orchid Hibiscus also boasts a medium size swimming pool, "relaxation zones" complete with enough woven basket hammocks for the whole family, and there's even an on-site aviary.

If Thai Thai and Orchid Hibiscus aren't quite up to your standards, one true high-end resort -- Tharaburi -- boasts a ritzy atmosphere and decadent facilities nearby. The room we were shown came stacked with every last amenity you can imagine to go with a deep maroon and gold "contemporary Asian" theme that we found slightly over the top. A well-groomed garden, swimming pool, full service spa and fine dining Thai restaurant may all be enjoyed here. Rates start in the 3,000 baht neighbourhood, but it's unlikely to disappoint for those looking to splurge.

Of all the mainland Southeast Asian nations, Cambodia is perhaps the most neglected from a tourist's point of view. The country is arguably known worldwide for two things: the magnificent Angkor Wat complex and two of the legacies of the Khmer Rouge -- land mines and security issues.

Together these facets have worked historically to both attract and repel foreign tourists, resulting in a highly developed tourist infrastructure surrounding Siem Reap, the closest town to the Angkor Wat complex, while the rest of the country, from a tourism point of view, has developed at a far slower pace -- if at all.

The end result of this is that many visitors to Cambodia come primarily to see Angkor Wat and leave without seeing anything else. This is a missed opportunity as Cambodia offers a wealth of destinations aside from Angkor Wat.

The capital, Phnom Penh, located roughly midway between Angkor Wat and the Vietnamese border, is beautiful in a dilapidated kind of way and has developed into a decidedly cosmopolitan city with excellent eating and drinking available along with some great value and very unique places to stay.

You packed an umbrella right?

Some historically important places to visit should be on your itinerary in Phnom Penh, such as Tuol Sleng, the Killing Fields and the National Museum, but it's not all genocide tourism here. Boat cruises, cooking schools, an animal refuge, wet markets and the ever-scenic riverside boardwalk are all easy crowd-pleasers.

Another bustling city that attracts a fraction of the visitors it deserves, Battambang in the west of the country is both an attractive riverside city in its own right but also a convenient hub for exploring the hinterland with its temples, Khmer ruins and the bamboo train. Easily reached by bus or share taxi, you can also approach it by boat from Siem Reap, crossing the Tonle Sap, in what can be an incredibly beautiful and memorable trip.

Bamboo train outside Battambang.

While nearby Thailand may be better known for its island scene, the half-dozen or so islands off the Cambodian south coast are where it is at when it comes to the "new" islands of the region. Pristine beaches and crystal clear waters really deliver the goods. The coastal and riverside towns of Sihanoukville, Kampot and Kep meanwhile provide a relaxing small town vibe that may enthral those looking for a lower-key Cambodia.

Off the coast, Cambodia has a developing eco-ish sustainable tourism scene, most famously centred around the Chipat area midway between Phnom Penh and Battambang. Here you can experience village life and grow to better appreciate what remains of Cambodia's once-vast forests.

No Photoshop required.

Heading north from the capital towards the border with Laos, the riverside towns of Kratie and Stung Treng each offer small town charm and the opportunity (should you be in luck) to see the critically endangered Irrawaddy dolphins.

Further east again takes you to romantically named Mondulkiri and Rattanakiri provinces. Once considered Cambodia's "Wild East" these areas have been (and continue to be) ravaged environmentally, but there are highlights that remain; Banlung in the north can be used as a base for trekking in Virachey National Park and visiting nearby waterfalls, while Sen Monorom, in a similar fashion to Chipat, has a developing sustainable tourism scene.

A waterfall all of your own.

Then of course there is Angkor Wat. Yes, it is something you must see during your lifetime; but do bear in mind that there are actually dozens upon dozens of monuments scattered not just around Siem Reap but across much of the country. Siem Reap town, with its ever-growing supply of hotels, fabulous eating and plentiful drinking has developed into a destination in its own right.

The crown jewel of Cambodian tourism.

So with so much to see, why do people see so little?

Cambodia is a very poor country and the poverty and persistent begging, especially by children, can be distressing to some. Crime, especially snatch and grabs, are a stubborn problem; scams also continue to be a problem. But we'd say we've always felt relatively safe in Phnom Penh and its reputation among some as a sleazy destination is not at all deserved -- it's no worse than Bangkok or Saigon.

Kids working the crowd on the Neak Long ferry.

Cambodian food has its own distinct appeal, but for now it simply isn't on the same page when compared to the cuisines of neighbouring Vietnam and Thailand. That's not to say you shouldn't try to get a handle on it though, and there are plenty of opportunities to do so.

While Cambodia is generally slightly cheaper than both Vietnam and Thailand but more expensive than Laos, it remains excellent value for money.

How long does Cambodia deserve?
The standard tourist visa for Cambodia is 30 days. So we'd say that is a good starting point.

In a month you could visit Angkor, Battambang, a couple of islands via Sihanoukville and then dash along the coast to Kep and Kampot before striking north to Phnom Penh, and continuing north to Laos via Kratie and Stung Treng.

With two weeks you could easily see Siem Reap, an island, a bit of coast and the capital before moving on.

One week, Angkor plus Phnom Penh or an island.

Just another Stung Treng sunset.

Cambodia has land border crossings with all three of its neighbours (Laos, Thailand and Vietnam) and the main trunk routes are mostly sealed, of a reasonable standard and trafficked by frequent public transport. This makes it ideal for those planning an overland loop through Southeast Asia so if you're planning extensive travel, Cambodia should absolutely be a part of it -- just don't make the mistake of hightailing it straight to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat.

This is an edited extract of Southeast Asia unwrapped: A travel planner for the first time traveller. The book, available in PDF, for the Kindle and iPad is due for release in December 2012.

Trekking to the summit of Gunung Rinjani, Indonesia's second tallest volcano, is no small feat. But those who are in shape and looking for a change of pace from relaxing on the country's idyllic beaches will be treated to some truly fabulous views, other-worldly landscapes, and sore muscles for days afterward.

Gunung Rinjani National Park sits impressively on the northeastern end of Lombok, one major island east of Bali. Rinjani has been something of a trekking mecca for many years, and while business is certainly more steady now than it may have been a decade ago, the park is still massive enough that crowds are kept fairly thin.

Early days, easy going.

The park itself boasts what seems to be an unlimited number of breathtaking vistas, fascinating ecological features, and some of the most difficult climbs any trekker could ask for.

Either side of Rinjani's massive crater lie sweeping golden grasslands and dense tropical rainforest, with the awe-inspiring crater lake poised in the middle of 360 degrees of volcanic alpine (topographical oxymoron?) beauty.

Rising from the eastern edge of the crater lake (Segara Anak) is a newer, active volcano cone, and behind it the impressive Rinjani summit, towering 3,726 metres above the nearby sea.

Crater lake - swim anyone?

Within the crater, just a short walk from the lake, is a series of hot springs, deep enough to swim in and said by locals to have healing powers. Rinjani is a veritable trekkers playground, and the type of place that can never quite be adequately described with words or pictures; you have to witness it firsthand to truly appreciate its rugged magnificence.

All this and more is reachable only by foot, and even then only by the truly determined foot. The hikes are extremely demanding, and will test even the fittest of travellers. Ascending to one of the two crater rims is always the first order of business, and many will feel as if they've had enough by the time they reach camp the first night, but the real adventurers will have just one goal in mind: The Summit.

Hot spring distractions.

The hike to the Rinjani's summit is a gruelling three hours from the crater rim, going up through dusty, sandy slopes, to the rocky gravel rim path that leads up the side of the mountain to the summit.

The final 300 metres however is the most challenging section of the entire mountain, a steep incline of rocks and gravel that finds you sliding back a step for every two you take. The summit climb was easily the most strenuous and difficult activity I've ever undertaken while travelling, and perhaps simply one of the most physically taxing things I've ever forced myself to do; each time you look up to the summit you feel you're no closer than you were the previous 30 times you looked up.

What are you doing here?

But while the hike is not for the faint of heart or the weak of will, those who push through the pain are rewarded with awe-inspiring sunrise views of the crater and all its features, Sumbawa to the east, the Gilis to the northwest, and, on especially clear days, you can even make out Bali's Gunung Agung. I thought I might die getting there, but the reward at the top was worth every step.

While a Rinjani trek can be the highlight of any trip to Indonesia, it should not be taken lightly. Those who are inexperienced at trekking or out of shape may find that they've bit off much more than they can chew, and will end up regretting their decision to make the journey. Merry-makers who came to Lombok for a tropical paradise getaway and packed their bags accordingly should realise that temperatures on the mountain plummet well below those on the nearby beaches, and lots of warm layers and solid footwear are an absolute must.

Camp 1 - Lux not.

Certainly, parents with children should seriously consider finding a babysitter before bringing their kids along, unless you've raised your children like mountain goats and they are well adapted to steep, cold, rocky terrain.

The trek is best undertaken in dry season from April through to November, and the park is usually closed to visitors in January and February.

Organising a Rinjani trek is easily done from anywhere on Lombok, and even Bali. Package trips can be arranged through many Bali travel agents, while the most direct tours can be booked from Padang Bai. As a word of caution, however, we have heard negative reviews of the quality of tours booked from Bali, and would advise getting a bit closer to the mountain before booking your tour. On the Gilis and Lombok itself, nearly every shop keeper and their dog will ask you to book a trek with them.

It's a long way to the top...

For those who want to go straight to the source, Senaru and Sembulan are the closest to the action, and essentially all tours pass through one or the other en route to the mountain. You may get a reduced price on your tour by booking in one of the two towns, but the cost and hassle of transport getting there may make it not worth the effort. Regardless of where you start, a guide and porters are a must, as tourists are not allowed access to the mountain without them.

Packages range from tours that spend only one night on the mountain through to treks that can last up to a week. Typically, most people book a three-day/two-night trek, which allows enough time (if only just... ) to reach the summit and see the most common sights along the way. However, if you have the time, a four- or five-day trek will allow you to get the most enjoyment out of the mountain without spending every minute of every day walking, eating or sleeping.

The view from the top.

Prices vary from organiser to organiser, though the cheapest prices we saw were surprisingly those on offer at the generic tourist shops/restaurants. Standard three-day/two-night treks run at about 1,200,000 rupiah on Lombok, and around 1,500,000 if booked on Gili Trawangan –- though prices vary and discounts can be found if booking for several people. Because these tours are booked by third parties and then passed on to the operator, the quality of the experience can be variable, with few limits put on group size and sometimes questionable equipment. Though we did meet a backpacker who had nothing but good things to say about his Gili T-booked trek, not everyone has been so lucky.

Some may prefer to go with one of the more reputable companies, which was what I opted for. Specifically, I'd heard good things about the Rinjani Trekking Club in Senggigi, so I checked them out. Though their prices are higher, they maintain that the difference is justified through their service, both on and off the mountain. Once on the trek, my guide told me that they compensate their employees more responsibly than other operators, and they cap the number at a maximum of six people per group so they are manageable for porters and guides and the experiences are more intimate for guests. Three-day/two-night treks run right around $200, though you can pay more for a few added luxuries. Other reputed but pricey options include John's Adventure and Lombok Rinjani Trek Organisation.

Made it!

When it comes down to making a choice, the sights are all the same and the trails just as steep no matter who takes you, so it mostly comes down to personal budget and expectations. The generic operators are the best choice for the budget-first crowd; however, those who are willing to spend a bit more to ensure their experience turns out as-advertised and the locals involved are treated well by their employer should try to book through the more reputable operators themselves.

Climbing Gunung Rinjani will present a challenge to even the most experienced, well-equipped trekker. However, if you've come to Indonesia looking for some exercise and an unforgettable experience, this trip might be the perfect thing -– do make sure you reserve some time for recovery afterward on one of Lombok or Bali's pristine beaches.

In late July of this year, a Dutch woman, on the way home from celebrating her 19th birthday at a bar in Ao Nang Krabi, was allegedly beaten and raped by a Thai tour guide. When she later arrived at hospital, the medical team treating her assumed she had been in a motorcycle accident because of the severity of her injuries. The assailant, whom she identified and who initially confessed to the crime when arrested -- a month later -- is now out on bail, and denying guilt.

Unfortunately crimes in Thailand similar to the above are not nearly as uncommon as you'd hope. A quick Google search brings up the case of a 23 year-old Israeli woman who was attacked and raped on Ko Pha Ngan; a 34 year-old Finnish woman attacked and raped on Ko Lipe; and a 23 year-old Australian woman raped by two men on Phuket. And that is just from the first two pages of results.

What makes the case of the Dutch woman slightly different is that her father released a video, titled "The Evil Man of Krabi", in which he takes the authorities to task for what he believes to be lax treatment. The video has gone viral and now been viewed more than 400,000 times.

As press coverage of the video, increased perhaps due to another attack in Krabi where an English couple were stabbed by a gang of seven youths, some news reports have hinted at Krabi hoteliers seeing some room cancellations due to a perception of Krabi, and particularly Ao Nang, being unsafe.

This development brought a woeful response from the Thai authorities. First the permanent secretary of the Tourism and Sports Ministry Suwat Sitthilor stated that the video should be blocked in Thailand. Then, in a step back into the 17th century (possibly earlier), Tourism Minister Chumphol Silapa-archa stated that the attack couldn't be considered rape because (quoting Thai police) "The woman had dinner with the Thai suspect and a foreign man. Later, she told the foreign man to return to the hotel before heading off with the suspect." (The victim's boyfriend has denied they had dinner with the assailant beforehand -- but even so, who cares if they had?).

Hello?

Sorry Chumphol Silapa-archa, we missed the bit where you display at least a token of empathy towards the 19 year-old woman who was raped in the country that you are in charge of promoting for tourism. Yes, rape is bad for business -- as it should be.

All people in Thailand, be they foreigners, locals, women or men, should be able to enjoy themselves without worrying about becoming a victim of apparently state-sanctioned rape.

Instead, we're confronted with state bodies dismissing the attack, trying to block the video and now apparently planning their own video release promoting Thailand as a destination. "Amazing No-Raping Thailand" perhaps?

Perhaps a more astute response would have been to apologise, profusely, and explain how you are working with authorities to try and get the bail revoked, as as it stands, it may be two years before this guy even faces trial.

Let's not forget that the assailant's sister (who also owns a bar in Ao Nang) came forward to offer the victim an inducement to drop the charges.

We'd have assumed one of the best ways to improve Thailand's reputation would be to have people like this behind bars.

In the meantime, what are potential rape victims -- sorry, I mean tourists -- to do to have a safe journey in Thailand?

Stay in control. If you're going to have a big night out, do it with friends. Don't accept rides home from complete strangers.

Or just don't go to Krabi.

Over the last few years there have been a number of deaths of young foreign travellers in Thailand that have received poor, or at least not particularly transparent, investigations. Most famously, perhaps, was the Chiang Mai rape and murder of Kirsty Jones in 2000. Since then there have been the bizarre "chemical deaths" in Chiang Mai and Ko Phi Phi, toxic cocktails on Ko Phi Phi and shooting deaths in Kanchanaburi and Pai. In some of these cases, the attackers are in jail; in others, no one has been punished.

Of course, the vast majority of travellers to Thailand have safe holidays and return home unhurt, save for a hangover, a motorbike burn, or a dodgy tattoo, but this is all the more reason why the authorities in charge, especially those involved in the promotion of Thailand as a destination for young travellers, should be doubling down on their efforts to solve these crimes.

Instead, they're busying themselves trying to sweep it under the carpet. It's a disgrace.

A few years ago, Koh Rong, Cambodia's second largest island, was a virtual secret. An unspoiled paradise, news about it spread in whispers, not unlike rumours about the fictional island in Alex Garland's novel, The Beach. The difference is that the "whispers" about Koh Rong were spread over the internet and not through the lips of a delusional backpacker in Bangkok. Word spreads fast online.

Koh Rong's secret is out and the ferry service can hardly keep up with demand. It's just as hard to keep up with the rumours about Koh Rong. Who runs it? How long will it be before "they" spoil it and turn it into a resort for the mega-rich only?

While foreign investors have been snapping up long-term island leases as fast as they can, Koh Rong, arguably Cambodia's most coveted island, is controlled by a Cambodian company called the Royal Group. Is the Royal Group a shady bunch of corrupt politicians, as the rumour mill suggests?

Koh Rong today, but will it look like this tomorrow?

According to their website, the Royal Group is the "premier investment and development company in Cambodia". This is no idle boast. If you've ever been to an ATM in Cambodia, odds are it was an ANZ Royal machine. Operated in partnership with the Australia New Zealand Banking Group, ANZ Royal is one of Cambodia's largest banks. If you've ever been to Phnom Penh and wondered who is behind the (proposed*) construction of Phnom Penh's largest building, the 36-storey Royal Tower, now you know -- it's the Royal Group. Those are just a couple of examples of this company's size and influence.

The chairman the Royal Group is Kith Meng, who was raised and educated in Australia. He returned to Cambodia at the start of the UNTAC administration and took the helm at Royal Group when Cambodia was being rebuilt from scratch.

What the Royal Group has planned for Koh Rong is no secret. As the Koh Rong homepage says, the island offers investors a "golden opportunity to be among the first to embrace responsible luxury on Asia's most beautiful blank canvas". It goes on to describe a vision of  "the world's premier eco resort island planned from the ground up".

Is that just media hype? Did the copywriters just throw in "eco" to make the development sound more attractive to investors? If Kith Meng's involvement in the development of Song Saa Private Island is anything to go by, it's anything but hype.

High density housing for Koh Rong.

Song Saa is actually two tiny islands about a kilometre off the coast of Koh Rong, called Koh Bong and Koh Oun ("boyfriend and girlfriend islands"). While all credit has to go to Rory and Melitta Hunter for sparing no effort or expense to make Song Saa not just an eco-resort, but a model eco resort, Kith Meng was there to make sure they didn't cut any corners.

Joe Royle worked as a finishing architect on Song Saa. He related a story to us that should put to rest any doubts about Kith Meng's intentions. Towards the end of his stint on the island, Joe and a co-worker were sent on a rush trip to the village on Koh Rong where the construction crew lived. The purpose of the trip was to make sure the construction workers' village was as immaculately clean as Koh Bong and Koh Oun were. If it wasn't, it could result in revocation of their lease and the end of the Hunters' dream.

A restaurant on Koh Rong.

While it's safe to say that the Royal Group isn't planning on building a tacky resort and dumping all its rubbish and untreated sewerage into the sea, it's also safe to say that most of us who travel on a backpacker's budget won't be staying at their development. However, all is not necessarily lost -- at least not yet. Stage one of their master plan focuses on the southeastern corner of the island. The current ferry landing and most of the existing bungalow establishments on the island are just outside of its perimeter. Existing leases, which are administered by village officials, are relatively short term and Kith Meng has the power to revoke the leases on a month's notice, but if nothing goes wrong, there are probably up to five years or more of breathing space before it will be time to look for another affordable island paradise.

What could go wrong? Plenty.

Sometime around the middle of 2012, a group of island residents who have grandfather rights to land on Koh Rong complained to Kith Meng that it was unfair that the administrator of Phum Koh Tuit village was allowed to log the island forests while they were not. Reportedly, this was the first Kith Meng had heard about the logging. Outraged, he paid a personal visit to the island. According to a Cambodian translator who happened to be there at the time, Kith Meng removed the man from his post and had him arrested.

Of course, the timber used to build all the bungalows and restaurants that have popped up on Koh Rong in the past few years had to have come from somewhere. Koh Rong is a big island and arguably, small scale island logging can be accomplished with minimal environmental impact. However, at last count, there were about a dozen guesthouses on the island and more are in the planning stages. The problem is, they aren't being planned with the Royal Group's consent, oversight or approval; nor are they always undertaken in a spirit of cooperation between foreign leaseholders or with the island's ecological welfare uppermost in mind.

Koh Rong -- nice place for a stroll.

Scratch beneath the tranquil surface of life on Koh Rong and you have a more dramatic story than the one played by Leonardo DiCaprio and the rest of the cast in the movie version of The Beach. Who was behind the destruction of one restaurateur's pizza oven? Was that death threat just uttered in a moment of drunken anger or will at least one barang leaseholder go to whatever lengths it takes to keep the competition at bay?

Then there was the case of a Sihanoukville bar-room boast. On a high after securing a lease from a Koh Rong official, the proud proprietor of a soon-to-be-built-if-all-goes-according-to-plan guesthouse boasted that he had also gotten a great deal on local timber. The question of whether or not it was going to be old growth or clear cut timber didn't even cross his mind; much less if the logging was legal.

Stories like these don't inspire confidence in those of us who would like to believe Koh Kong will be as near-pristine next year as it is this year. One way or another, development is taking place. The question is: How is it going to be developed?

Koh Rong is just a couple of hours by ferry from Sihanoukville and Sihanoukville is arguably the rumour capital of Southeast Asia. It's always hard to separate fact from fiction in this corner of Cambodia. However, this much is certain: Koh Rong is still a stunning island that could be the highlight of your trip to Cambodia. How long it will stay this way is another question, though. If you want to experience it as it is, do so sooner rather than later.

* Construction of the Royal Tower is yet to commence. Apols for not making that clear & thanks to Matthew for pointing out that most visitors to Phnom Penh would not be aware of a building that hadn't commenced construction yet :) The ATMS are everywhere though!

From bare-bones dorms to suites with private butlers, the city-state of Singapore has something to meet any accommodation need. As Singapore is infamously expensive the bargains fill up quickly, so if you hope to score one of these top-rated hotels and hostels a reservation is essential.

The lowest you can go in Singapore is S$20-22 per night. This will get you a bunk in a simple dorm that's air-conditioned overnight. Our top pick in this range is The Little Red Dot (from S$22) with squeaky clean dorms, awesome staff and a location walking distance to two MRT stations. If it's a fun atmosphere you're after then the Inn Crowd (from S$20) in Little India is Singapore's top party hostel with a lounge packed with entertainment options and in-house pub. For complete cultural immersion, try homey Fernloft Hostel (from S$22) with an amazing location overlooking the temples, markets and hawker centres of Chinatown.

Yeah, but where is the horizon pool?

Moving into the flashpacker price range, Singapore has a new crop of boutique hostels with lots of style and added amenities. You'll get a great night's sleep beneath the silky duvets at Pillows & Toast (from S$28 weekdays/S$30 weekends) and can treat your tired feet to the massage chair in their common lounge. Our inner hippie recommends Tree In Lodge (from S$27) for its reliable dorms (mixed or female-only), green practices and free guided tours to Singapore's parks and nature reserves.

For something completely different, check out Wink Hostel (from S$50); it's a high-tech hostel in a converted Chinatown heritage building, with pod-style beds that offer more privacy than your typical dorm.

It is called a pod.

A handful of Singapore hostels also offer private rooms with shared bathrooms – they are in short supply so book well in advance. The Hive charges S$60 for a brightly painted private room with your choice of one double or two single beds. The Prince of Wales charges S$60-70 for a private room with the more expensive option having its own TV. Note that this is as much a bar as it is a hostel, so don't expect to hit the hay very early. The Betel Box Hostel is notable for being the only hostel with a family room and it can accommodate up to six people. The nightly rate starts from S$80 depending on the number of people; their food tour is highly recommended. All of these options are air-conditioned and rate includes internet and a light breakfast.

Now that's a traveller's common room :)

If you absolutely positively must have a private room with en-suite bathroom, expect to pay in the range of S$100-200 per night for a room at a budget hotel. If you're prepared to contend with some traffic noise, the Mayo Inn is one of Singapore's best bargains. The immaculately clean rooms range from S$110 for a standard room to S$150 for a family room and all have TV, minibar, coffee/tea-maker and complimentary WiFi. Over in the colourful Little India area, we recommend family-run Perak Hotel with rooms starting from S$128 per night. Each room has been lovingly decorated and the rate includes WiFi and continental breakfast.

In a posh residential area near Orchard Road, Hangout @ Mt Emily offers the best of both hotel/hostel worlds. The private rooms (from S$115) are modern though minimally furnished, but there are cosy common areas including a lounge, rooftop terrace and guest kitchenette. Hangout is also one of the few hotels in Singapore that offer rooms for groups of four or five people with no fuss.

Increasing your Singapore hotel budget to S$200-300 gives you infinitely more options and will even score you a swimming pool. On the shopping belt of Orchard Road, we love the Royal Plaza @ Scotts (from S$280) for its contemporary rooms, rooftop pool, incredibly convenient location and thoughtful extras like free minibar and Nespresso maker in all rooms. It's also a great option for families.

Flex that plastic baby!

In terms of value for money, you can't go wrong with the Parkroyal Hotel (from S$240). There are two convenient locations – one in Bugis and one in Little India – and both offer spacious rooms with all the modern trimmings, great swimming pools and delicious (if expensive) on-site dining. Be sure to sign up for their loyalty program to enjoy free internet access.

For a hotel experience to remember, book a night at the New Majestic Hotel (from S$250 with breakfast) in Chinatown. No two rooms are alike at this boutique hotel and you may end up sleeping inside a giant goldfish bowl or in a tree-top loft – you can browse through all the artist-designed rooms on their website.

If money is no object (oh, how we wish we could say that), Singapore has some truly amazing options. Check into historic Raffles Hotel (from S$400) to be pampered like a colonial general – butler service and opulent brunch included. If you want to experience Singapore's most modern hotel, try Marina Bay Sands Hotel (from S$350) for cutting-edge rooms and access to their famous rooftop infinity pool. If you're in luck you may win back the cost of your room at the nearby casino.

No dorms here.

A final note, if you're looking for the cheapest rather than the best places to stay in Singapore, then you may want to read our wrap on the cheapest places to stay in Singapore.

Many of Thailand's islands have seen staggering development in recent years, but a slice of unspoilt paradise can still be enjoyed in several marine national parks. If you're hoping to traverse rugged mountain trails, relax on near empty beaches, meander mangrove forests and sea-caves by kayak, be pestered by monkeys rather than touts and doze off to the sound of waves instead of beach parties, these islands are for you.

To be clear, we're not saying these are the only natural havens in the Thai islands; in fact, we're preparing a related story that covers "Thai islands to lose yourself on", many of which will also fit the bill for nature lovers. Hiking trails, quiet beaches, waterfalls and viewpoints can also be found on more developed islands like Ko Samui, Ko Tao, Ko Lanta and Ko Chang.

What sets the following islands apart is how they're at least partially protected as national parks and are, first and foremost, bastions for plant and wildlife instead of tourism. Note that Andaman coast national park islands shut down between May 1 and November 1. Camping is the preferred means of accommodation on many, electricity is limited on most, and the majority have only basic national park run restaurants. Yet each differs in size, terrain and available activities, so choose wisely -- and have fun daydreaming while you're at it.

Lazy days on Ko Tarutao.

Ko Tarutao
Beginning with the most beastly of them all, Tarutao's 150 square kilometres of soaring mountains covered in old growth jungle were deemed so unforgiving by a 1930s Thai government that 3,000 of of the country's most dangerous criminals were outcast here. The TV show Survivor found Tarutao suitable for its whinging contestants -- but if you don't allow a park ranger to accompany you on the far reaching trails, you may wind up whinging (or worse) a bit yourself.

Hiking to waterfalls and viewpoints, mountain biking, snorkelling, lounging on vast empty beaches, boating to inland caves and hanging with notoriously brazen monkeys are among the activities offered on Tarutao. With a choice of rock hard bed bungalow or beach tent for accommodation, Tarutao is especially suited to those who embrace creepy crawlers as friends and neighbours.

No beachside tailor shops on Ko Adang.

Ko Adang
Like Tarutao, Ko Adang looms in breathtaking fashion off the coast of far southern Thailand in the Andaman Sea. Apart from a secluded and tacky resort which absolutely shouldn't be there by virtue of Thai law -- Adang offers strictly national park bungalow or tent accommodation and a bare bones Thai restaurant for sustenance.

Unlike Tarutao, Adang is a short longtail boat ride from the highly developed Ko Lipe, and many choose to do a day trip to Adang during an otherwise swish Lipe holiday. Only a couple of nearby waterfalls and a viewpoint with sweeping Andaman Sea views can be reached without the help of a guide due to Adang's sheer cliffs and untamed jungle, but some decent snorkelling can be enjoyed off the main beach and a handful of spectacular coves tucked beneath the mountains are reachable by longtail.

Ko Ra cubicle.

Ko Ra
Practically unknown and rarely visited, Ko Ra is a long, thin and rugged protected national park island just off the Andaman coast. Ra's only place to stay is a privately owned eco-lodge which offers homely bungalows and a staff who become more like friends after a day or two. This is one place where the term "eco" isn't just a ploy to attract customers -- the lodge began as home base for a coral reef conservation project, it continues to foster support for a sea turtle conservation group, and it's largely self-sustainable.

Staying on Ko Ra is pricier than the usual national park islands, but the food is better, the experience is totally unique and it's possible to stay long term as a volunteer. Activities include jungle trekking with an outstanding guide, sea kayaking, snorkelling, organic gardening, meditation, yoga and letting your worries fade into a seaside hammock.

Ko Lao Liang beckons.

Ko Lao Liang
Two neighbouring blips of dramatic limestone boulders that rise from the Andaman Sea, Ko Lao Liang is similar to Ko Ra in that it's only facilities are run by a small, environmentally-conscious private company. Unless stopping by on a day trip from nearby Ko Surin, Lao Liang can only be visited as part of a package that includes a rustic but comfy seaside stay and buffet meal enjoyed communally. Especially suitable for those who prefer a healthy dose of adventure with their beach paradise, scuba-diving, snorkelling, sea kayaking and some excellent rock-climbing await.

School is out on Ko Libong.

Ko Libong
The only island to make our list that offers a few bungalow joints to choose from, Libong is a relatively large but scarcely visited Andaman island partially protected as a wildlife refuge. It's a great place to forget the "real world" and is home to a charming Muslim fishing village, but Libong is best known as the world's foremost refuge of the endangered dugong, or "Asian sea cow".

Closely related to the manitee, these gentle, chubby giants can be spotted on a guided kayak trip through Libong's expansive inland mangrove sanctuary. Although not the best for snorkelling thanks to its slightly murky water, Libong also offers a handful of hiking trails, viewpoints and secluded beaches.

Energy conservation on Ko Surin.

Ko Surin and the Similan Islands
These two idyllic Andaman Sea destinations are similar in many ways: both are home to some of Thailand's finest beaches, accommodation and restaurants are run by national parks, each are relatively far from the mainland and both are tiny as islands go. Surin is actually two teeny neighbouring islands while the Similans encompass nine dots of rock, jungle and sand, only two of which can be walked on due to park regulations.

As for activities, beach-lounging is always a favourite and both offer fantastic wildlife spotting opportunities. Yet most come explicitly for the top notch scuba diving and snorkelling -- if you want to meet sea turtles, make your way to Ko Surin and/or the Similans.

Although they're both well worth a visit, we're slightly partial to Ko Surin thanks to it's thinner crowds and the many Moken "sea gypsy" operated longtail boats which can be hired for a day of private exploration (the Moken have a small village on one of the Surin islands). In contrast, most touring in the Similans is by way of speedboats run by travel companies. Ko Surin also gets points for its more helpful national park staff, but the Similans boast a more dramatic landscape defined by enormous coastal boulders that look like play toys of the gods. If you can't decide, why not visit both?

Tarutao taxis.

Ang Thong Islands
We'll leave you with the 42 pristine isles of Ang Thong National Marine Park off the eastern Gulf coast, which inspired that book-turned-movie that always pops up in Thai island pieces like these: The Beach. This marine park was in fact one of the filming destinations that hosted Leo Dicaprio and crew, and it's not hard to see why Ang Thong was cast in the role of hidden island paradise.

Snorkel or dive in cerulean blue water, sun-bath on squeaky white sand beaches, gaze over an emerald lake ringed by mountains and venture through limestone sea caves in a kayak. If wanting to spend a night (or six), the national park offers basic accommodation and a restaurant, similar to what you'd find on Ko Surin or the Similans.

So which is the most nature-tastic of them all? The truth is, each are incredible, so it entirely depends on your tastes. Hikers and bikers should not miss Tarutao. Go for Adang if you want a taste of nature without straying far from resort world. If itching for something completely different, head for Ra or Lao Liang. Libong offers the rare chance to see an endangered dugong in the wild. Surin, the Similans and Ang Thong are all safe bets for fantastic diving and snorkelling in a picture postcard paradise. Why can't all of life's tough decisions be as fun as this one?

There's nothing like settling into a bare-bones beach hut on a nearly off-the-map tropical island where honking horns, politics and TV commercials exist only as distant memories. On the Thai islands below, the mind has space to relax, reflect, and to lose itself in gently swaying palms. These places aren't bursting with activities -- and that's sort of the point.

Be warned that these islands are not for everyone. Air-con? Forget it, and don't expect a fan at night either. No electricity from 22:00 to 07:00 is the rule. Taxis? Ha! Most of these places don't even have cars, and the only "roads" on a few are nothing but sandy footpaths. Resorts? Spa treatments? Chipper waiters bringing mai tais to your poolside lounge chair? No, no and no. Most of the "resorts" offer dirt cheap thatched roof bungalows with cold-water showers, mosquito nets and plenty of geckos to keep you company.

Busy day at Bulon Lae.

Ko Bulon Lae
Arriving on this blip of an island off the far south of Thailand's Andaman coast feels like entering the setting of an enchanting fantasy novel. It's inhabited mainly by a very friendly group of Chao-lae, historically a nomadic seafaring people of Malay descent who practise a mix of Islam and spirit worship. They now run a handful of simple bungalow joints for the trickle of travellers who arrive each high season. Filled with tropical flowers, lizards, butterflies, dragonflies, spirit shrines, humble homes nestled along forest paths and secluded bays, it's easy to see how Bulon Lae is so quick to cast its spell.

The beach goes on and on and on.

Ko Phra Thong
Aesthetically, Ko Phra Thong is one of Thailand's most unique islands. It's the only place in the country with a desert-like savannah landscape, and travellers often comment how similar Phra Thong's flat inland stretches look and feel to parts of the African savannah. You'll see a lot of speedy sand lizards rather than cheetahs and gazelles, but Phra Thong's wide open inland sand dunes, stilted fishing villages, expansive stretches of empty golden sand beach, stunning starry nights and occasionally neon green translucent waters after dark thanks to a particular type of harmless, naturally occurring bacteria all combine for an unforgettable experience.

Not a tailor shop in sight.

Ko Sukorn
Sukorn means 'pig' in Thai, and this little known Andaman Sea island is named after the many wild boar that once roamed its lush terrain. The pigs have mostly been replaced by water buffalo and goats; today the island's small Muslim community rely mainly on agriculture, with fishing next in line and tourism ranking a distant third. Sukorn is best known for its other-worldly black sand beaches with striking hard coral formations, but it's also a fun place to bicycle along the narrow seaside roads while being swept up in the island's slow pace of life.

Things are looking up.

Ko Maak
Just south of Ko Chang off the far southeastern Gulf of Thailand coast, Ko Maak is an idyllic four-pointed star shaped island that remained largely unspoilt as its beastly neighbour was heavily developed. The island's fine white sand beaches and bamboo bungalows are connected by sandy tracks through wide stretches of palm and rubber plantation, and jungle that still teems with wildlife. So spectacular are Ko Maak's beaches that the island earned a spot on British newspaper The Sunday Times' list of the 'top ten beaches in the world.' Heading out for a week on Ko Chang? Maybe you should make that six days on Ko Maak. Just watch out for the sandflies.

Just ghastly.

Ko Chang Noi
Not to be confused with big Ko Chang near Ko Maak, little Ko Chang or Ko Chang Noi as we've always known it, is a rugged, pristine and out-of-the-way island near the south coast of Burma in the Andaman Sea. We dubbed little Chang "Thailand's most laidback island" thanks to its exceptionally chilled out, reggae-music-playing bungalow joints and artsy atmosphere that's popular with long-term stayers. If you want to feel really far away from it all and forget not only about air-con and TV but also internet and cell phones, Ko Chang Noi fits the bill. Enjoy those Marley tunes.

All of the above are great choices for anyone looking to play Robinson Crusoe, but if you like these, you might also be into some of our favourite Thai islands for nature lovers. But be warned -- some who went to lose themselves for a short period ended up blending into the palms forever. Or perhaps they never got lost but rather found themselves -- in a beach hammock -- under a big, bright moon.