Vietnam Tourism have outdone themselves in making sure that Ha Long Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is regularly cited by travellers as their "must visit" destination whilst visiting Hanoi. And it is, but for most backpackers on a budget, the most relevant question is "How cheaply can I do it and what do I get for my hard earned (and more easily spent on booze) money". Well, read on.

We shopped around downtown Hanoi for a backpacker budget friendly tour and White Pearl was the boat most often mentioned by the travel agents we spoke to. Rates ranged from US$48 to $55 depending on the travel agent, so for $48 (plus the 10% VAT tax that according to our booking agent, every tour operator throws on) we were paid up and ready to take off on our adventure. All tours on offer in Hanoi are ex-Hanoi, so the price of the tour included all transport between Hanoi and Ha Long Bay.

This is what it's all about.

We waited at the pickup point for our bus at 08:00, the time we were directed to be there. And waited ... and waited. Despite the repeated proclamations of the tour agent that the bus was only five minutes away, the bus eventually turned up an hour and a half later with our host dangling out the open door offering his apologies about being so late. He seemed genuinely sorry about the situation, which helped quash my rising levels of irritation. After all, this is Vietnam and an elastic approach to time is almost a prerequisite for travel and maintaining your sanity in this country. We hurtled through the streets barely allowing the remaining guests to alight the bus before we rushed to the next pickup point. By the time the last guest had arrived we had 30 passengers on board in what a real estate agent would describe as a very cozy bus.

Our little sardine can took off out of the smog and pollution of Hanoi towards the coast, stopping for a 20 minute pit stop at a cafe and souvenir shop that presumably had some sort of kickback arrangement with the tour operators. The trip itself took around three and a half hours to get to Ha Long City and the sense of relief in getting off the crowded bus was palpable. We shuffled our way into the departure area like cattle, collected tickets, wrote down our names and before long we were on our way along the pier to alight the boat.

At the end of an uncomfortable bus ride.

Many of the boats on the Bay appeared to be quite similar, leaving me to ponder what the benefits of paying for a more expensive tour were and whilst exposure to the elements had given the boat a fairly weathered appearance, it appeared more than capable of handling the tranquil surrounds of the Bay. We clambered aboard and wandered around the boat before being ushered into the common dining space to hear a little bit of history of the area from our tour guide. The engines fired up and we left the congested pier towards some of the thousands of islands that dot the area.

Almost immediately we were served lunch, which consisted of a range of dishes that, whilst not being culinary masterpieces, were enough to fill us up. We were treated to fresh fish, chicken, rice, salad and a range of other dishes to suit vegetarian guests that were placed in the middle of the table to share. There was an awkward stalemate where no-one wanted to be the first to serve themselves but eventually someone took the plunge and before long each of the tables of six were involved in conversation.

Not quite the platter we got on the mid-range boat.

We continued our way across the Bay to a network of caves where we seemed to arrive in unison with the every other boat in the area. We walked up a steep set of stairs at which point the limestone face of the cliff opens up into a staggering cave network hundreds of feet tall, illuminated with different coloured LED lights for an eerie spectacle reminiscent of the bat cave. We were directed to look at a number of different rock formations said to look like various animals that bared scant resemblance to said creatures and after around 20 minutes were back outside making our way back onto the boat.

Next stop was kayaking at the fishing village that was surprisingly devoid of anyone fishing or a village. Those that paid the $3 at booking time or $5 at the site then went on to have a paddle through the shallow waters around a network of caves. The sheer limestone cliffs jutted imposingly out of the water and made for a pretty impressive backdrop as we navigated our craft around but after 20 of the allocated 40 minutes we'd seen all that we needed to see and returned to the boat to laze on the top deck with a moderately priced beer (35,000 VND).

The snacks come to you.

Though we didn't know it at the time, we were rapidly approaching the end of our tour. Once everyone had jumped back on board the boat, we slowly made our way towards the pier at Cat Ba Island where we moored to allow passengers staying on dry land (the price is the same to stay on the boat or at the 2-star hotel on Cat Ba) to depart. The boat moved around 50 metres away from the pier to moor and we were greeted by vendors selling chocolate, water and drinks from their rowboats screeching "Buy something" phrased somewhere between a question and a directive.

As the afternoon drifted into the night, the passengers wiled away the rest of the day jumping from the boat into the waters below and frolicking in the shallows. The sun slowly slipped over the horizon washing the sky with a technicolour kaleidoscope of colours as we sipped on a few more ice cold beers. Dinner was upon us before we knew it and we tucked into another hearty but similarly unimpressive meal. Everyone ascended to the deck again to listen to music and chat for a while before one by one, everyone went to bed, exhausted by the combination of an early start, the sun's rays and a heavy meal to top things off.

Is it a dragon?

The cabins were small but comfortable and had an upright fan that did a valiant job of keeping us cool enough to sleep. An air-con unit was installed in the room, silently mocking us since getting your hands on a remote was going to cost an additional $10. Still, sleep came easily enough on the boat as the calm waters of Ha Long Bay don't tend to have much in the way of waves or currents at this time of year, but this was not to be the case the next day.

We arose to news that a fast moving typhoon that had been ripping through the Philippines was making its way towards us faster than expected. Breakfast of four pieces of dry white bread and a greasy omelette were consumed before we docked at the pier at Cat Ba, collected the passengers that had stayed on the island and made our way back towards Ha Long City. The weather was beautiful with clear skies but the calm facade belied the ferocious storms that were just a handful of hours behind us. We got to shore and ate at a small restaurant before crowding back onto the bus to head back to Hanoi.

Who cares about the lack of loungers — it's a rate blue sky day in the Bay.

We squeezed back into the minibus surprised that there was one spare seat, but before long we picked up a local from a small restaurant and filled the last remaining seat ensuring that everyone was in a similar level of (dis)comfort for the three and a half hour journey back to the city. Another pitstop was made, just in case anyone wanted to by a seven foot tall marble statue on the way home, and we cruised back into Hanoi without incident.

The tour guide made a valiant effort of remembering where each of the 30 people needed to get off but after realising I was likely to be the last to depart and that it'd taken an hour and 20 minutes to get picked up, I made the judgement call to jump ship early and explore some more of the Old Quarter.

Tour: Two Day/One night budget tour
Cost: US$52
Operator: White Pearl
Just about any travel agent in Hanoi can arrange to get you onto a tour of Ha Long Bay aboard the White Pearl. For more mid-range and upper Ha Long Bay tours, Agoda offers competitive rates.

For those who are put off by the tales of woe from the cheapest of the Ha Long Bay cruises, but don't want to pay top dollar for a luxurious boat, there is a selection of mid-range vessels to choose from. For our flashpacker tour of Ha Long Bay we went with Dugong Sails, the most commonly recommended boat offering tours in the price range of around US$75 to $85 -- we paid $75 for our two-day, one-night trip.

We arrived at the travel agent's office at 08:15 to meet the Dugong Sails' bus, which pulled up at 08:45. Last to board, we were stuck with the fold down chairs in the centre aisle, but at least it was better than a plastic stool or squeezing three onto a seat made for two -- it happens. Our guide Hung introduced himself and said a few words about Hanoi and our itinerary. His attempts to get us involved in a Q&A were met with silence -- it was too early to engage in camaraderie with strangers. After this point his engagement with guests was limited beyond supply of practical information.

They ran out of space for the S.

The drive to Ha Long included a stop at a shop-cum-cafe where we drank terrible coffee, stocked up on snacks and avoided the embroidered pictures and cheap looking jewellery. Overall the drive took around three and a half hours and although not comfortable -- on the centre seats at least -- it was bearable.

Once at the Bai Chay pier in Ha Long City we moved swiftly through to board the ship's tender -- and don life jackets -- which took the 22 of us the few hundred metres to our home for the next 24 hours.

Getting to know you.

First impressions of the boat were reasonably positive. As with other boats in the bay, the white paintwork was a bit tatty -- all boats plying Ha Long Bay's waters are painted white following a directive a few years ago. But the dining area was spacious and light and bedrooms were big enough for a short stay, though we'd suggest limiting your luggage if possible.

Our room was downstairs and had a large window, two small beds and a smart bathroom with shower cubicle and rain shower. Air-con and fan were installed but only the fan was necessary given the cool temperature -- it'd be essential in summer. The room also came equipped with life jackets, a fire extinguisher and a hammer -- to break the window we assume. It was good to see sufficient consideration had been given to safety.

Two becomes one.

The deck was equipped with a selection of chairs, tables and wooden loungers. While weatherworn, they were functional and sufficient for the number of guests on board.

Our lunch of pork, tofu, seafood, vegetables, fries and rice was hardly a gastronomic delight but was tasty and plentiful enough. Drinks were available at 42,000VND for a local beer, less for soft drinks. On tables of four or five we had a chance to chat and get to know our fellow guests. We were a mixed crowd: mostly foreigners in their 20s and 30s, travelling in couples, along with some single travellers, a family with a four-year old son and a group of Vietnamese men.

Ready for battle.

By this time the boat had moored and we were informed that we'd all be heading off on the tender to kayak, visit a cave and go to the beach to swim. Those who didn't want to do one or more of the activities still had to join.

Kayaking took place off a floating platform where the equipment was stored. The kayaks didn't look seaworthy but every one got back from their 30 minutes of paddling around the nearby islands in one piece and off we went to Surprise Cave. It's the largest and apparently most impressive in Ha Long Bay, though not so surprising when you've been three times before, as we had. Those on their first adventure in Ha Long seemed to enjoy it.

Running late but worth it for the views.

By this time it looked like our boat was running a bit late, as we were the last to leave the cave and twilight was kicking in by the time we got to the beach on Soi Sim Island. We weren't in the mood for a swim so instead stomped up the 389 steps to the top of the island -- views were better on the way up than once we got to the top -- and on our return settled by the beach with a fresh coconut juice to watch the sun slowly set.

Not to be attempted after too many beers.

Despite being later back than expected, we had time for a drink on deck before dinner -- better than lunch -- and an evening spent chatting to fellow guests over a beer or two. The promised karaoke never materialised -- thankfully -- though some had a go at net fishing. The Bay was busier than it had been on previous visits but still peaceful.

Time to relax.

On our second day we were up bright and early for breakfast, with the three-day-two-night people leaving at 07:30 to be whisked off to Cat Ba Island for their second night. The rest of us had a few hours to relax on deck as we cruised back to the harbour. Although we had moored within sight of the city, we cruised back the long-way round, giving us ample opportunity to see more of the bay and some of the more impressive boats... or read our books. It was overcast on both days, so no blue sky photos, but Ha Long was nevertheless beautiful.

About as basic as a breakfast can get.

Unlike many boats that eject passengers at the harbour to eat at a soulless restaurant on terra firma, after a spring roll-making session we were able to enjoy lunch on board. We may not have had much of a view, but it was a more enjoyable way to finish our trip.

After lunch we paid our bills and were carted back to various buses, arriving in Hanoi after a slightly scarier but more comfortable journey, at around 16:00.

All in all, this was an enjoyable trip and we were pleasantly surprised by the quality of the boat and the rooms. On the downside, the food isn't likely to impress the gourmets, and being carted around on a tender all afternoon on day one won't suit those who just want to hang out -- it's all or nothing -- but at least there is time to relax on deck the next morning. This is a worthwhile upgrade from Ha Long Bay's budget option if your finances aren't too tight.

Tour: Two Day/One night budget tour
Cost: US$75
Operator: Dugong Sails
Just about any travel agent in Hanoi can arrange to get you onto a tour of Ha Long Bay aboard the Dugong Sails. Dugong Sails can also be booked via Agoda.com.

If you're travelling independently through Vietnam but you've a bit more cash to flash than the norm, you still want to know when it's worth spending that bit extra or not. When it comes to Ha Long Bay, tours are priced from very cheap through to reasonable, then there's the splurge take.

We tried Alova, and paid US$115 for our two-day, one-night trip through the gorgeous bay, about $40 more than the flashpacker trip we tried. (You can spend into the hundreds more if you must.) As with all trips, the adventure started with an 08:00 pick up in Old Quarter. First impressions were good: the guide was young and chirpy and the bus was well air-conditioned, spacious and peaceful. We stopped en route at a large souvenir store for a bathroom break and, wondering if anyone ever bought anything, downed a quick coffee.

Our overnight home.

Having left a sunny Hanoi, it was disappointing to see the sky cloud over and turn grey, and soon after leaving the rest stop the heavens opened. This did not make for a pleasant drive. The rain continued as we disembarked the bus and walked into a crowded waiting hall at the dock. Thang passed us our tickets and we walked to the tender which was to take us to our boat.

Room to breath… and air-con.

Thang insisted we wear life jackets, explaining it was now a regulation when travelling on a tender in the bay. Fortunately it is not a regulation to have to wear one on the junks, or that could have made for some uncomfortable dining and sleeping.

Cheerful Thang and a not so cheerful chef.

The outside of the boat looked as we’d expected from the company website, although it was quite weather-worn. Boats in Halong Bay used to be mostly unpainted or brown painted wood, but, so the story goes, a government official returned to Vietnam after a trip to France and decreed all boats must be painted white. That might look good from a distance, but close up it’s more prone to look dated – and it’s hard to identify your boat among a crowd of other white ones.

That aside, we went into the dining area for a welcome drink, an introduction to the boat and then lunch. The boat has only nine cabins so the dining area was intimate, with guests split across two long tables. Just 14 of us were on board.

A huge step up from the budget options.

Lunch was excellent – a plentiful mix of tasty meat, fish and vegetable dishes with rice. Plates of food were placed in the centre of each table so it was a case of helping yourself and passing plates to other guests. That broke the ice, and by the end of lunch we were all on first name terms. Drinks were extra, and while pricier than backpacker joints weren’t excessive, such as 50,000 VND for a beer.

After lunch, we checked out the rooms, spread over the upper and lower decks, with all having large windows. Ours was on the lower deck, with its door facing out onto an external corridor, and it had a rather romantic feel to it.

Not too shabby for a boat.

The room was very pleasant. It was small but with enough space for the two of us to move around and had reasonably sized comfortable single beds, hanging space and a shower cubicle in the en suite bathroom. It was also equipped with life jackets and a wet bag – useful for our island trip later. It should have had a hammer (to break the windows in case of emergency) but didn’t.

Next, despite the rain, we took the tender over to Titop island. The island has a small beach and a peak reached by climbing 412 steps for splendid views across the bay. The water was clean and inviting, and the rain stopped, so after the walk we took a dip. We seemed to be the only foreigners on the island with the other visitors – lots of them – all Vietnamese.

We won't let rain get in the way of swimming.

Then it was back to the junk and time for kayaking. The kayaks were new and good quality two-seaters — definitely better than the others we saw people paddling in the bay. We paddled around a couple of the nearby karsts and past a number of fishing boats, which also serve as homes. We asked about swimming but were told it was no longer permitted.

Reassuringly new kayaks.

After some relaxation time, and a spring-roll making class, a delicious dinner was served. We indulged in some happy hour cocktails over dinner and later, on the deck. Some of the guests went squid fishing, with no success, but we were content to just sit and chat with other guests. It was an early night for all on board.

Hand-made spring rolls included.

Next morning, after a very decent breakfast of scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, pancakes and fruit, we took the tender over to Surprise Cave. My companion opted to stay on board and read her book, which didn’t please Thang – he was keen to show off the cave.

We couldn't resist another food shot: breakfast.

Maybe I’m a bit jaded and have seen too many caves, but it wasn’t a great experience. All boats seemed to have dispatched their guests there at the same time, making it difficult to move around, get a good look or take any decent photos. It’s an impressive enough cave – in that it’s large and has some interesting formations – but if it had been a sunny day I would have wished I’d stayed on deck with my friend.

Back on board, and after lunch, we had some time to relax on deck as the boat cruised back to Ha Long City, but as we neared the dock we were summoned to watch vegetable carving. We groaned, but it was more impressive than expected.

Not my own work.

After docking we went to a large restaurant over the road and ate average food before our bus took us back to Hanoi, via a different cafe and we were back by 16:30.

All in all, if you're not on a tight budget and prefer a few bells and whistles, this was a great trip with the creature comforts a midrange traveller would expect.

Tour: Two Day/One night budget tour
Cost: US$115
Operator: Alova
Just about any travel agent in Hanoi can arrange to get you onto a tour of Ha Long Bay aboard the Alova. Alova can also be booked via Agoda.com.

While all the talk is of visiting Ha Long Bay on an organised tour, it is sort of possible to visit it independently. Sure you'll still end up on a tourist boat, but you won't be a part of the group onboard. Is that close enough? We thought it was and here is how we did it.

Starting in Hanoi, we jumped in a taxi to Gia Lam bus station early on a Friday morning and upon arrival were accosted by someone asking if we were going to Halong City, so we followed him to the ticket office, bought a ticket for 120,000 VND and were plonked on a bus. Half an hour later the bus left for what turned out to be a trip of more than four hours (including a short rest stop). The bus wasn't too busy and was kept cool, so we were comfortable enough. Around six kilometres from our destination we were told to get off the bus and were immediately pounced on by a motorbike taxi driver offering a lift into Bai Chay for 30,000 VND. On we hopped.

One option is to start your Halong trip here.

We decided to spend a night in Halong City before heading out to the bay, so checked into one of the numerous budget hotels and spent the afternoon happily pottering around town and along the promenade. In the evening we ate delicious barbecue food, downed a cool Saigon beer and checked out the Marine Plaza.

The next day we wanted to go to Cat Ba Island but not all tour operators could get us there by junk – most suggested travelling via Tuan Chau ferry. However, we found someone who charged 300,000 VND for the boat trip, including transport to the harbour, so went along with it. We were picked up at 12:00 and at the harbour we had to buy our own entrance ticket to the Bay (120,000 VND). Then we waited … and waited. Eventually a guide approached us with a group just arrived from Hanoi and we followed him out to a boat.

Don't expect luxury on a day trip.

On board, our group of about 20 people was herded into the dining area for lunch. My ticket didn't include lunch so I escaped to the sun deck, although calling it that makes it sound much nicer than it was: a few battered and broken loungers and random chairs scattered around a deck that had seen much better days. Still, as the first one there I claimed the best-looking lounger and relaxed with my book and a Diet Coke, available on board for a reasonable price, as we started the journey into the Bay.

Join the kayaking or sunbathe on deck.

The boat made two stops en route to Cat Ba Island, the first at a cave and the second kayaking. My ticket included neither, but I could have paid an extra 100,000 VND to join the kayaking or bought a cave ticket back at the harbour. The guests who participated seemed happy enough.

After the kayaking the boat cruised the last stretch to Cat Ba Island. Everyone sat on the deck as the beautiful landscape rolled past and we hardly saw any other tourist boats, making it a peaceful and enjoyable hour. Once we arrived at Cat Ba though, the journey was marred by the long wait we had at the pier for the bus into town. It was around 19:00 by the time we got to Cat Ba town and checked into a hotel.

A long wait at the end of the day.

While we just overnighted on Cat Ba, staying there puts you nearer the attractive parts of the Bay, which is ideal for those who want to explore. It takes about an hour from Ha Long City to get out to the karst area, and as well as booking onto boat tours you can also explore the island and national park and book onto adventure activities such as rock climbing. The beaches on Cat Ba Island are also better than the beach in Ha Long City.

Peace and quiet.

Another option we could have taken was to take a bus to Halong City and buy a ticket for a round-trip boat tour at Bay Chai harbour. A four-hour trip will cost 100,000 VND plus the 120,000 VND entrance fee. Or pay an extra 50,000 VND plus cave entrance for a six-hour tour including a trip to the cave and beach. Boats leave at 12:30. Agents in town will also sell you tours for US$25 to $45, including transport to the pier. You'll probably need a night in Halong City afterwards as buses don't run too late.

Alternatively, you could buy a combined bus and boat ticket to Cat Ba Island from Luong Yen bus station and book boat trips out from the island.

No room for negotiation at the harbour.

Would we recommend a DIY trip to Ha Long Bay from Hanoi? If you only have a day — no. Book on a budget tour from Hanoi because it'll cost about the same and be less hassle. Plus you're guaranteed lunch (but probably not dinner).

Neither is there much advantage in going it alone if you want to do a two-day, one-night trip with an overnight stay on a boat. You won't save any money by booking in Ha Long City or Cat Ba Island and you'll still essentially be on an organised tour — you'll just have to sort out the bus yourself and leave Hanoi earlier to ensure you get to Ha Long City in time to book and get on the boat.

The views are the same whichever approach you take.

However, if you have a bit of time and want to explore Ha Long City and Cat Ba Island, then travelling independently is recommended. Do as we did, and spend time in both Ha Long City and Cat Ba, or travel direct to Cat Ba Island and make that your base. We like Ha Long City, but unless you have a particular desire to go there, we'd recommend heading straight to Cat Ba from Hanoi.

If you DIY you'll have time for the beach.

If you ask a travel agent or your hotel tour desk what the differences are between the various cruises to Ha Long Bay, they will all tell you the same: the more expensive it is, the better the boat and the better the food. But how different are they and what's going to suit you and your budget?

We went on three package tours of two nights and one day, as well as going it alone, and paid US$52 to US$115 per person, including transfers. You can easily pay much more than that if you have the means and the desire but we stuck with budget to midrange tours. You also have the option of a three-day, two-night tour. We enjoyed all of the trips, but that was in part due to the opportunity to meet new people and also because this is, after all, Ha Long Bay, which is a remarkable spectacle no matter which boat you're on.

Ha Long Bay is stunning no matter what your budget.

The tours all had some things in common. They all leave and arrive back in Hanoi at about the same time, all stop at a shop and cafe for a rest break, all include two lunches, dinner and breakfast, a bed for the night plus kayaking, a visit to a cave and swimming. Cabins across all three were similar in terms of size and decor too. Rooms -- and beds -- were small, but adequate for a night -- the one we had on the priciest trip, the Alova, did slightly have an edge on the others. All had large windows. Air-con on the budget trip -- with White Pearl -- cost an extra US$10 but was included in the others. All bathrooms were compact but both the flashpacker (Dugong) and midrange options came with a spacious shower cubicle and rain shower. The budget bathroom was just a wet room.

Rooms are similarly small.

Food notably varied across the three boats. On the budget boat, and the flashpacker boat to a certain extent, food was more about sustenance than gastronomy, although to be fair it was tasty enough. More of an effort was made on Alova, particularly in terms of presentation, but also quality: think crab and mounds of meat versus tofu and a pork stir fry heavy on onions. Breakfast was much better on Alova; the eggs and white sliced bread on the two cheaper boats may have kept us going until lunch but did little for our tastebuds. Drinks were more expensive on the more expensive boats. All had a happy hour.

This?

Or this?

Decks varied the most between boats. White Pearl's deck lacked sufficient, functional deckchairs; Dugong had an almost adequate number of basic chairs and loungers; and Alova's even came with fake grass, although not as much seating as Dugong.

As close to grass as you'll get in Ha Long.

It may not look much, but it's social.

Kayaks on Alova were new and open topped -- easier to get in and out of -- and we kayaked directly from the boat, rather than being transferred to a floating platform; the kayaking cost extra on White Pearl; the budget tour went to a different, less impressive cave; and the two pricier tours included a trip over to one of the small islands for swimming and the option to climb to the island peak for great views. However, swimming off the boat was not allowed -- so if that's your vision for Ha Long Bay you'll need to book on a budget tour. Finally, the budget tour didn't include the spring roll cooking class and only Alova included a vegetable carving demonstration -- so if that's your bag, you'll have to pay the price.

At least they float. Honest.

Although there are no hard and fast rules, bear in mind that you will find different types of guests on different tours. In general, expect a younger crowd with singles on the budget boat, more couples on the flashpacker and older guests on the midrange.

Three other things are worth noting. Firstly, the transfer. The bus journey to Ha Long is never going to be a pleasant experience but we did notice an improvement in comfort the more we paid. You'll also find a difference at the harbour: for some reason, on the budget tours they leave the registration process until you are squeezed into the departure lounge, requiring you to balance a form on a neighbour's back to fill in your personal details before herding you to the boat. On the other two tours, the paperwork is completed in advance by the guide so you walk straight through to your boat.

As comfortable as it gets.

Secondly, the guide. This may just be the luck of the draw, but the guide on Alova was leaps and bounds better than the guides on the other boats in terms of level of English, provision of information and, importantly, engagement with guests.

Finally, further to fatal accidents in 2011 and 2012, safety regulations have been improved and it seems that most boat operators take it seriously. We were required to wear life jackets on the tender by both Dugong and Alova and rooms came with life jackets and hammers. Life jackets were notably absent on White Sails. We were only given the “safety briefing” mentioned in the itinerary on Alova but it was common sense stuff anyway. We couldn't judge the seaworthiness of the boats.

It's good to have a cheery guide -- shame about the chef.

One final note is for single travellers: consider the single supplement. Neither White Pearl nor Dugong will charge a supplement, assuming you are happy to share a room, or you can choose to pay extra for your own room (US$22 on Dugong). Alova charges $35 extra for a single room with no sharing option.

So in summary: it all comes down to how much you want to spend, your expectations and the level of comfort you want.

Do not go on the budget tour unless you are happy with a basic level of service, food and comfort. Yes, Ha Long Bay is a remarkable spectacle no matter which boat you're on, but you still need to consider your personal requirements. If you wouldn't stay in a budget hotel in Hanoi, why would you do a budget tour to Ha Long? If, however, you are on a tight budget, it's ideal. Nothing was promised that wasn’t delivered on, which is a welcome change from some of the less scrupulous operators in Hanoi and beyond.

Not for gourmands.

For something that feels a bit classy, you'll need to go for a boat like Alova or above. While not luxurious, the small details made a difference, such as the stylish deck, the high quality food, excellent staff, layout of the boat, quality kayaks and who could forget the vegetable carving?

Our flashpacker choice, Dugong Sails, was -- as you'd expect -- somewhere in between. At US$40 less than Alova we thought it was a good deal. The food wasn't as good -- but it was tasty enough -- while the guide wasn't as engaging and the transfer was less comfortable, but rooms and activities were as good -- tatty kayaks notwithstanding -- as Alova. Although we overnighted at the same place, it took a longer, and more attractive route back to harbour. We'd suggest considering an upgrade from the budget if you can afford it.

The occasional glimpse of blue sky.

And what about the DIY? We wouldn't recommend it for two-days, one-night, but if you have longer and want to explore Cat Ba Island or Ha Long City, it's worth considering, otherwise there's little benefit over a package tour.

Do remember that the boats we went on were only representative of different price ranges. All boats differ, guides will change and itineraries vary. Bon voyage!

Music has the power to launch you far and wide, create a sense of community, replace hopelessness with creativity and soothe the deepest roots of your soul. In Bangkok's poorest area, underprivileged kids are exposed to all of this and more thanks to Khlong Toey Music Program (KTMP).

To this environment, enter Geraldine Nemrod ("Gigi") and Siriporn Pomwong ("Amm"), a French-Thai duo who combined their passion for music with a desire to help Thailand's poor by founding KTMP in late 2012. With help from Playing For Change, a larger non-profit supporting nine charity music schools in Africa and Asia, KTMP established its own school in August of 2013.

Gigi and Amm at work with the youngsters.

Occupying a modest shophouse amid a dense slum known as Khlong Toei 70 Rai, the school is "about bringing people together and giving them some inspiration and dreams through music," as Gigi put it in her own words. Eight skilled volunteer music teachers, including Amm and Gigi, offer lessons and rehearsals to some 25 kids throughout the week.

Truly a bastion of creativity, the school also offers visual arts lessons taught by esteemed Bangkok street artist, Cece Nobre, among others, while doubling as a community centre. In this safe and uplifting environment, kids can celebrate birthdays, connect with friends, express themselves in a number of ways, and simply have fun.

No stuffy music school.

On Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays, the school focuses on small group lessons in guitar, bass, drums, keys, ukelele and voice, while Saturdays are devoted to band practice. Divided into beginner and intermediate groups and led by instructors, the kids rehearse together in rooms stocked with donated instruments. The songs they learn run from classic American rock tunes to modern Thai hits.

Feelin' the groove.

The school is run entirely by volunteers who rely on regular jobs for their income, but the doors are open whenever possible, allowing kids to practice on their own while perhaps taking refuge from less-healthy situations. In an area where many children are neglected, abused, or succumb to drug use and gangs, KTMP is an invaluable ray of hope – and it seems to shine brighter every day.

In addition to running the school in Khlong Toei, Amm and Gigi regularly teach music lessons to children of migrant workers and other poor families in various parts of Bangkok and beyond. They also donate instruments to remote villages in far Northern Thailand. Given the immense drive and enthusiasm of its founders, KTMP has the potential to do limitless good in the years to come.

Bringing joy and meaning to kids' lives.

KTMP collaborates with other local charities and is working with a Thai university to establish an art/music scholarship program for deserving youths. Gigi told us that donated recording equipment will soon be used to produce the program's first-ever album: a compilation of Thai children's songs.

Established Thai musicians like Nanglen Band and Thee Chaiyadej have rallied behind the program, taking part in events such as Playing For Change Day. KTMP perpetuates Playing For Change's theme, "One World One Voice", by connecting virtually with music schools in Nepal and elsewhere to share songs spanning seas, allowing students on both ends to heighten their awareness of the world at large.

The KTMP band wowed the crowd at Phraeng Phuthon.

In addition to being a vital element of fundraising, the program's regular performances help to encourage and empower the kids to keep playing. At last year's Phraeng Phuthon Arts Festival (coming again this December in Phraeng Phuthon Square), we had a blast watching the KTMP band electrify a sizable crowd. Check the program's Facebook page for the latest on upcoming events.

For all the excitement of festivals and celebrities associated with the program, at the end of the day, it all comes back to the kids. During our visit to the school, Gigi pointed out a young boy who was ever-so focused as Amm led the ensemble in a song. "When he first came, he couldn't sit still and focus for more than a minute ... Then he discovered the drums."

A typical Saturday rehearsal.

"Now he comes almost every day, has learned ukelele and shows a real talent for music ... That helps to motivate us. We can really see the evolution, the development in the kids." Watching and listening to the students gain a solid footing in music at young ages, I imagined how a few of them will no doubt grow up to be successful musicians -- perhaps even superstars.

More importantly, every student has an opportunity to realise their own self-worth thanks to the loving support they find at KTMP. Any musician knows that music is like a journey through cascading doors, each opening outwardly to new opportunities while inwardly building calmness, presence and joy. That this journey is open to kids from Khlong Toei is no small miracle.

Music is also a celebration of life.

While KTMP receives a share of its funding from Playing For Change and other sponsors, it also relies heavily on private donations. If you want to help, contact the program directly (info below) to arrange a donation through a secure bank transfer or Paypal. If you would prefer to support several schools at once, donate to Playing For Change. Donations of instruments, toys and clothing are also appreciated.

The school is always looking for dependable, Thai-speaking musicians willing to donate some of their time as music teachers. Musicians who don't speak Thai are welcome to stop by and join in a music session (just get in touch first). Those based in Bangkok can accompany the KTMP bands on live performances when needed.

Thanks to KTMP and Playing For Change for letting us include a couple of photos from their Flickr page.

Khlong Toey Music Program
225 Soi Damrong Phiphat (off At Narong Rd), Khlong Toei 70 Rai, Bangkok
T: (085) 165 4776
ktmp.info@gmail.com
KTMP official site
KTMP Facebook page

Ko Phi Phi has a large and growing variety of places to stay. Since it was struck by the Asian tsunami of December 2004, Ko Phi Phi has been redeveloped at a relentless pace, which is showing no sign of slowing 10 years on.

One noticeable movement on Phi Phi during 2014 was in the budget sector, with more hostel accommodation being added and possibly usurping the bamboo hut as the cheapest room of choice for backpackers. We also noticed a growing number of resorts adding two-level hotel-style buildings to their premises to either complement or replace their bungalow offerings. Room styles are thus looking decidedly less beachy as resorts find ways to squeeze more baht out of their precious property space.

Right, you’ve found your beach. Now where to stay?

The Ao Lo Dalam beach area, which had been reduced to rubble in the 2004 tsunami, is being built up again. Hotel developers stayed away from this beach for many years, but by 2014 they were starting to creep back, most notably with Charlie Beach Resort reclaiming its old beachfront position. This long-running resort that had partnered up with PP Princess Resort and retreated inland post-tsunami has now erected several bamboo huts (850 baht a night) on the area where it had been washed away in the waves a decade ago.

Charlie Resort’s back on the beach with some old-school bamboo huts.

A flurry of construction is underway along Lo Dalam’s entire length and up into the headland at its northern end, so we expect that by 2015-16 all traces of the tsunami’s sweep of the area will be built over.

Before we list our top picks for the island, we should note that unless money is no object and you can check into one of the island’s top luxury resorts, the choices here are generally mediocre compared to similar priced offerings elsewhere in Thailand. As well, with the cheapest options found in Ao Lo Dalam and Tonsai village in the vicinity of Phi Phi’s noisiest bars, money savings often mean compromising a peaceful night’s sleep if you’re not here to party.

Phi Phi is busy year round. Research ahead of time to find which beach will suit you best. Booking ahead for your first night at least is highly recommended, especially in the high season months of November through April. Many places will have someone meet you at the pier to help carry your luggage, too, and it will save you from having to tromp around in the heat while being tailed by accommodation touts. All the prices listed below are low-season rates, so consider them your starting point.

Your own little jungle hut at Phutawan Bamboo Resort.

For backpackers on a budget, the cheapest deals are found at the hostels, most of which are in Tonsai village. A typical Phi Phi hostel set-up is in a shophouse with bunk beds in an air-con room, shared bathrooms and free WiFi. Three of the better ones we found in Tonsai village are Blue Diamond Dorm, Ploy Dorm Room and PP Centerpoint Hostel, all of which start at 300 baht a night. The best hostel for beach access is the new Chao Koh Dorm Room (350 baht), which is found on Tonsai beach a short walk away from the pier. If you’re keen on a bamboo hut, and don’t mind a sweaty walk, some cheap places have been built up in the hill just beyond Lo Dalam beach. Phutawan Bamboo Resort (400 baht) has rustic but tidy huts in a pretty garden and jungle setting.

You’ll want to get into one of these bungalows at Phi Phi Relax.

If you’re looking for a real getaway spot without a five-star price level, we urge you to hop on a longtail, get thee to Pak Nam beach, and check in immediately to Phi Phi Relax Beach Resort. It’s the perfect mix of a gorgeous remote setting, thoughtful design and welcoming service – all for reasonable rates starting at 1,500 baht a night. Our next favourite out-of-the-way choice is Tohko Beach Resort, which sits all by its lonesome on a beach of the same name. The bungalows here are nothing special, but it’s friendly and the setting is divine. Both of these spots have electricity in night-time hours only.

No fighting for shade at the lonely Tohko Beach Resort.

Within reach of Tonsai village but also with an isolated feel is Viking Nature Resort, a sprawling collection of large and quirky bungalows clinging to the jungly hillside (rates from 1,200 baht). While the service could be better here, its location, which extends across two small, virtually private beaches, is superb.

On one of Phi Phi’s prettiest stretches of sand, Long beach, sits Paradise Pearl Bungalows, which we reckon have the most beautiful Thai style room designs in all of Phi Phi. Its mix of large beachfront bungalows to smaller hotel-style rooms tucked away at the back (from 1,800 baht) will appeal to both families needing space and couples on a tighter budget. The Paradise Resort next door, long known as a friendly place, was undergoing a big refurbishment during our 2014 visit, so we place it in the “one to watch” category (rooms from 1,300 baht).

Paradise Pearl — where classy Lanna style meets the beach.

For those willing to spend a bit more for a pool, one of the best for your baht is Phi Phi Viewpoint Resort, which also offers fantastic views from its hillside perch overlooking Lo Dalam bay (rooms from 1,200 baht). J.J. Residence hotel in Tonsai village lacks a view, but it has decent-sized, clean rooms and a pool set in a walled garden area (from 1,600 baht). The most backpacker-friendly place with a pool is Tropical Garden, with attractive wooden bungalows and rooms for as little as 400 baht a night (though do check when booking if the pool is open – it was out of service last time we visited).

One of the big, bold bungalows at Viking Nature resort.

Among the many places to stay in and around Tonsai village, Chunut House remains a standout for its rock-garden setting, creatively designed bungalows and friendly vibe. Having converted all its rooms to air-con, prices have nudged upwards (from 1,500 baht) but it still offers reasonable value by Phi Phi standards.

For those who want a more plush, resort-style place to stay but a central location, both P.P. Casita (from 2,000 baht) and P.P. Palm Tree Resort (from 3,100 baht) in Tonsai village fit the bill. Both of these offer air-con rooms, swimming pools and efficient service with Casita geared more towards couples — children under 10 are not allowed — and the Palm Tree more family oriented.

Pool with a view at Phi Phi Villa Resort.

Phi Phi Villa Resort over on Tonsai beach is another good midrange choice – nothing fancy here but it’s clean and well run, with a sea-view pool and a new gym and spa. Rooms from 2,500 baht a night.

Among the luxury resorts, Outrigger Phi Phi Island Resort and Spa is hard to top, with its secluded location on Lo Bakao beach and top-notch facilities (good deals in low-season from 3,959 baht). It’s one of those dream tropical wedding and honeymoon spots that people the world over will happily max out their credit cards for to enjoy their brief moments of bliss in the sun. Just lovely.

Always a favourite: the Holiday Inn Phi Phi Island.

A bit further north is another luxury enclave, Laem Thong beach, which is home to the always-appealing Holiday Inn Phi Phi Island resort (from 3,500 baht, try to book into the quieter new wing) and Phi Phi’s priciest escape: the Zeavola Hotel, which is worth every baht if you can afford to stay in one of its understated, uber-elegant villas (from 9,000 baht).

A simple question, with rarely a simple answer. Where is the best beach/party/temple/breakfast in Southeast Asia? Below we tackle ten typical queries and take a (highly personalised) stab at why I reckon somewhere in particular is the best in Southeast Asia. One proviso -- the Philippines and Brunei are not included in the mix as we're yet to head to either -- maybe this year...

Ancient ruins

Your top shelf items here are Angkor Wat in Cambodia, Bagan in Burma and Borobudur in Indonesia. I'm going to go out on a limb and declare Borobudur to be the best. Yes, it has a higher admission fee for foreigners and yes, it is a very compact site so it can easily get overcrowded -- but much comes down to timing. We were lucky enough to share Borobudur with barely a dozen other people for dawn, with Merapi smouldering and the jungle valley to the right bathed in mist. It was magnificent and remains one of my most memorable moments of 25 years in Southeast Asia.

Bagan in the dry season is ... dry.

We'd place Angkor second (preferably during the monsoon, which brings out the birdlife and lush jungle vibe) and Bagan third. While Bagan doesn't get overcrowded nearly to the extent of Angkor, the ruins are brick and lack the individual beauty up close that you get at Angkor. Bagan is a big picture destination -- see it from a balloon or climb a chedi at dawn or sunset to see a bunch of temples. Angkor is a much more intimate, up close and personal, destination.

One more point in Borobudur's favour: you need just a few hours on site. While people "do" Angkor or Bagan in as little as 12 hours, I'd say you need at the very least one to two days to get much out of a visit. Time-strapped? Borobudur.

Also rans: My Son south of Hoi An, Sukhothai and Kamphaeng Phet in Thailand, and the myriad other Khmer ruins in Cambodia, Thailand and Laos, with a particular call out to Wat Phu in southern Laos.

Beaches

So many beaches, so little time. Do you prefer a picture postcard white sand beach with turquoise water without a ripple in sight, or are you more a rugged surf creature, with the less development the better? We're dedicated beach bums, with a particular fascination for grains of sand, and while some of the most gorgeous grains of sand in the world are in Indonesia, we're going to give the gold star to Thailand.

High season at Mekaki Beach, Southern Lombok.

Like everywhere in the region, the beaches of Thailand often bear the brunt of overdevelopment, pollution and greed, but, if for no other reason than the diversity, Thailand pips Indonesia (though if you're surf inclined I'd reverse these). We'd place Cambodia third and Malaysia a distant fourth. While Indonesia has its fair share of calm water tropical isles, rubbish -- especially plastic -- remains an enormous problem across the archipelago. Sadly, if the current and wind is not in "your favour" you're often best advised to not even get in the water.

Personal favourites? For absolute stunning cliches, in Thailand the beaches of Ko Kut in the east are very difficult to beat, along with some of the still-blissful back corners of Ko Pha Ngan. In Indonesia, southern Lombok has some gobsmacking surf beaches while Komodo and Flores are no slough when it comes to calm waters and white (or pink) sand.

Food

Now that we've offended both budding archaeologists and beach lovers let's move on to the foodies. Food in Southeast Asia is really a two-horse race -- Thailand and Vietnam -- and we're going with Thai -- the food of the northeast has a place in our heart as warm as the heat of its chillies.

Vietnam: Must eat everything.

Both Thai and Vietnamese food are really as diverse as the countries themselves: cheap, fresh and totally delicious.

Honourable mentions to Malaysia and Singapore with a full bellied nod to Burma's mohingya.

Mountains and trekking

Walk off all that eating with a bit of trekking or mountaineering. While Thailand remains the trekking hub for the region, those with a more serious mountaineering obsession will be well satisfied in Indonesia where no shortage of climbable volcanoes beckon, including Bali's Gunung Agung and Lombok's Gunung Rinjani.

Bali from above.

Malaysia has Mount Kinabalu -- don't make the mistake (as we have) of calling it Southeast Asia's highest peak -- but it is still plenty high enough to allow you to work off some of those servings of curry mee you've been scoffing. Just wear boots and cut your toenails beforehand.

Vietnam also has its mountainous north, with Sapa the go-to spot, but this is more a walk in the hills than an arduous adventure -- and the same goes for the developing scene out of Luang Nam Tha in northern Laos.

River trips

How could you even consider another river when the mighty Mekong touches so much of Southeast Asia? Be it catching a slowboat from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang in Laos, seeing dolphins near Kratie in Cambodia, or floating around on its rich diverse tributaries in the Mekong Delta, the Mekong is the snaking soul of Southeast Asia.

Snack stop on the Chindwin.

If we wanted to give a nod to another, it would be the Chindwin River in Burma, where you can take overnight (and longer) freighters-cum-ferries up and down the river, enjoy fantabulous scenery, villages and towns and in all likelihood, not see another backpacker -- and at a quite reasonable cost. Double thumbs up for a developing must-see.

Notable mentions go to the Mae Kok River in northern Thailand, the Tonle Sap in Cambodia and the Kinabatangan River in Sabah.

Savouring the city

This is easy. Yangon (Rangoon). There is no more “Southeast Asian” city than Yangon, but go today, not tomorrow -- it's changing fast. For now it still lacks the modernising trend -- be it fast food (good) or mass transit (bad) -- that you'll find in other Southeast Asian capitals.

Typical Yangon scenes.

It remains a beautiful albeit clapped-out city, with stunning colonial vestiges, delicious food and some of the best people-watching from a pavement perch in the region. Yes, the traffic can be ghastly, half the joint floods in the wet season, the power fails and the internet is crap, but these all just make us love Yangon all the more.

Chilling out

Laos. More exactly, swinging in a hammock somewhere in the 4,000 islands. Our choice would be Don Khon, but plenty more go for Don Dhet. There are not all that many easy-to-reach places left in Southeast Asia where you can swing in a hammock with water views without spending the earth, but the 4,000 islands, way down at the southern tip of Laos' panhandle, remains such a place. Nong Khiaw and Mong Ngoi in the north are also ideal locales to tune out and take a holiday from a holiday.

Don Dhet: Where the river slows faster than the time.

Other favourites include Soppong in North and Sangkhom in Northeast Thailand, some of the quieter spots on Ko Pha Ngan in southern Thailand or anywhere on Ko Bulon Lae in far southwest Thailand. You can't talk about chilling out without talking about Cambodia, and Kampot is an obvious choice -- along the river, somewhere.

Romance

What if you want to chill out with just one special person, rather than an entire tribe of backpackers, in a really special place?

It's difficult to get closer to the river than at Loy La Long.

If it fits your budget, you want either the Black Room at Loy La Long, which hovers over the waters of the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok, or if you'd prefer to be more hidden away but still over the water, you want Bann Makok on Ko Kut in eastern Thailand.

They're both a bit hard on the wallet (but well worth it), so for a more budget option for lovers, we'd suggest Keranji Beach Resort on the Perhentians, Malaysia or Kanawa Island (despite its many flaws) off Flores in Indonesia.

Long-term travel

Indonesia. With 17,000 islands, rather slow transport infrastructure and absolute bucketloads to see, Indonesia should be where it is at. Unfortunately, a relatively short tourist visa (effectively two months for most) means some planning and international flights will be required to allow sufficient time to better explore the archipelago. We suggest you take around 17 years in total.

Next ferry is in a week.

If you're put off by the visa and need for flights, Thailand is our second choice for longer-term travel. Like Indonesia, it offers a relatively short tourist visa, but as there are plenty of overland crossings, it need not be expensive nor onerous to get more visas and keep exploring. One could easily spend a year exploring Thailand with little need to visit the same place twice. Just do your research and get your ducks in a row visa wise.

Short-term travel

While any city works for a short two- or three-night stay, if that's all we had, Singapore would be our pick. If you're looking for a single quick dose of Southeast Asia, Singapore is a terrific option for first timers to the region.

Random Singapore food photo: It's all good.

Yes, it is expensive (relatively), and yes, it's most definitely first world, but the food if fabulous and affordable, excellent museums and other attractions are a big lure, and a visit is straightforward and usually hassle free. If you're looking for something a little more down to earth, Georgetown, Penang is another favourite.

Islands

Sure, Indonesia has 17,000 of them, but a bunch of those are rocks that don't really count, and it's really about the quality not the quantity, right? That being the case, Thailand comes in first with well over two dozen easy-to-reach, (mostly) semi-intelligently developed islands to choose from. Just about all interests are catered for, with islands for stoners and islands for weddings, and islands for stoned weddings for that matter, along with more family-friendly getaways. Most if not all are within an hour or so of the mainland, so reaching them isn't an endurance test.

Meet Ko X.

For runner up, we give the silver star to Cambodia, where the developing scene there is yet to be totally screwed up -- though we are not optimistic. For now the islands are largely gorgeous and most budgets are catered for somewhere, on one of the many slivers of sand. Just watch out for those damn sandflies.

Getting off the beaten track

Getting off the beaten track right across Southeast Asia is dead easy. Go to the bus station, get on the first bus to a place not in your guidebook and go. See? You're welcome.

Burma's warming up, so be quick.

If you're looking for something a bit more advanced than a trip to the bus station, Burma is where it's at. The country is changing fast. Areas are opening up (and closing down) with regularity and if you really want to have that "I'm the only backpacker within X kilometres" feeling then Burma is a great fit (though northern Bangkok is cheaper, easier and also devoid of backpackers). Head north into Sagaing Division or south along the spindly coast fronting onto dozens of islands and the Andaman Sea. Foreigners are still very thin on the ground -- as are services -- but that's what you want, right?

Everything

Southeast Asia is so diverse and boasts such a wealth of various attractions, distractions and experiences, that you could easily ignore all the above and have an even better, more memorable time. So even if you put aside our suggestions, please do make the time in 2015 to explore a slice of Southeast Asia.

It couldn't have stayed obscure forever. Ko Lipe has officially joined the ranks of Thailand's most popular islands thanks to brilliant beaches and seascapes to rival the Maldives. Once tricky to reach due to a far-flung location, the tiny yet increasingly busy island is now served by a fleet of speedboats from multiple directions. It's a tried-and-true recipe for hordes of high-season travellers.

Tiny is the keyword. At only a few square kilometres and located some 60 kilometres off the Thai mainland, Lipe wasn't made for mass tourism. The native sea gypsies chose Lipe because this distant corner of the Andaman Sea was a good place to escape military conscription in the late 19th century. Who would come all the way out here to look for them?

As it turned out, travellers searching for unspoilt Eden would start trickling to Lipe in the 1980s. When Travelfish.org founder Stuart McDonald made his first trip in the '90s, "There were three places to stay and no roads, just a bush trail across the island. The one daily ferry took four or five hours from the mainland." More resorts and boats arrived in the 2000s, but changes were gradual.

Make way for the machines.

Around 2010, the cross-island path was sealed and turned into "Walking Street." A few motorbikes arrived. Adding to more and faster mainland ferries, speedboats started connecting Lipe to Langkawi in Malaysia along with several other Thai islands. The mostly European and Australian travellers were joined by Japanese, Koreans, Russians and Chinese. With extra pocket cash from their growing economies, Thais and Malays began taking advantage of the paradise in their backyard.

Used to be a sandy path.

Even so, after visiting in 2011 and again in '13, we felt that the islanders were preserving Lipe's natural beauty thanks in large part to an environmental campaign. Occasional visits from a Thai princess, who has a holiday home here, seemed to provoke local authorities to take good care of the island, retaining its low-key atmosphere. It felt like a balance had been struck.

Arriving again in November '14, we were shocked to see the difference that a year can make. New large-scale concrete development was everywhere. Simple bamboo bungalows were disappearing. Room rates were through the roof. The "Save Ko Lipe" banners were gone. A 7-eleven loomed over Walking Street. Seemingly to its detriment, the island was booming.

A common sight on Lipe today.

Along the beaches and inland, two- to three-storey concrete structures were popping up like sand crabs. Large resorts like Idyllic, Mountain and Bundhaya seemed set on stacking new concrete atop the old. The biggest resort of all, Sita, was almost finished building straight across the island. Several bungalow joints had closed after relinquishing land to developers eager to cash in on the demand for air-con rooms.

Not only is this bad news for Lipe's environment, but it's bad news for budget travellers too. It's now almost impossible to find a bungalow for under 1,000 baht on Sunrise beach in high season, and only a handful of backpacker-friendly joints hold out on Pattaya beach and inland. Many travellers who've been coming to Lipe for years are now forced to choose a less popular island -- or shell out considerably more cash.

The remains of Porn's bungalows.

Long a place of guitar-strumming skinny dippers, Sunset beach has lost its budget mainstay, Porn Resort, which is being replaced by an upscale resort as we write this. Several other mid- to upper-range resorts are filling the area in. This makes us wonder: will Lipe's rugged western peninsula be next? An increase in barbed-wire fences and at least three new resorts way out in the remote reaches could hold a clue.

Large swathes of inland terrain are also being gobbled up. We figured that the many new hotels found here would be inexpensive given their considerable distance from the beaches and close proximity to the dump. Yet the misleadingly named The Green Resort and others charge more than 2,000 baht for plain air-con digs in high season. They've also replaced lush forest, cleared not too long ago, with an ugly view.

More to come.

This speaks volumes about the number of tourist arrivals compared to available rooms. At peak times in 2014, we were told, travellers who arrived without reservations were forced to sleep on the beaches. Highlighting an influx of weekending Thais and Malays, a staff member at Forra Diving who has been on Lipe for more than a decade said: "It used to be that every day was a Sunday. Now it's easy to tell weekdays from weekends by the crowds."

With bigger crowds come bigger piles of trash. Some resorts -- like Castaway and Serendipity -- do everything they can to manage waste and garbage responsibly, but plenty of others cut corners. Especially near construction sites, we often saw trash being burned, including plastic and styrofoam. Despite the efforts of Trash Hero, litter washes up from the sea and is commonly discarded by careless travellers and locals.

Toxic fumes don't go well with sunbathing.

Both at sea and on land, motorised traffic is everywhere on Lipe. A brigade of sidecar motorbike taxis shuttle travellers around an island that can be walked across in 15 minutes. Roads have been widened and extended, making room for pick-ups and the heavy cranes needed for construction. Walkers now have to constantly look out for vehicles, while boats threaten the snorkellers.

Part of Lipe's original charm came from its small community of Urak Lawoi, a traditionally nomadic "sea gypsy" group who lived in simple huts both here and on neighbouring Ko Adang. Now most work in tourism as boat drivers or servers. While a few have profited, our observations hint that some harbour apathetic or resentful attitudes towards the outsiders (including Thais) trammelling their home. Comfortable with English and Thai, as one native told us, they're forgetting their own language. This cultural degradation has a lot to do with assimilation through Thai education, but tourism also contributes.

Traffic jam on Lipe?

By now you're probably thinking that Lipe is a write-off, but not all changes have been negative. A trash/recycling barge removes most of the garbage. Plans are underway to build a pier off Sunrise beach that will allow the barge and other boats to dock offshore, easing traffic near the beaches. To keep swimmers safe, several upscale resorts stopped boats from entering a large patch of sea off a stretch of Pattaya beach that's as stunning today as ever.

The increased popularity has resulted in a more convenient destination. Today you can buy an all-inclusive bus/boat ticket to Lipe from as far away as Bangkok, and airlines provide all-in "fly and ferry" tickets. Though choices are thin for backpackers, anyone with a bit of holiday cash has more accommodation choices than ever. Some of the newer resorts -- like Time to Chill and Mali -- blend tastefully (and responsibly) into the existing nature. And let's face it: it's nice to have an ATM around.

No complaints here.

Development has not extended to Lipe's 22 neighbouring islands, meaning that miles of untouched beaches and jungle are still only a boat ride away. A privately owned resort that was built illegally on Ko Adang in 2010 was still closed. Given the sometimes stricter enforcement of laws against national park land encroachment currently in Thailand, it probably won't open any time soon, if ever.

By building up to meet demand, Lipe is following the course taken by many other popular travel destinations. Anyone who visits Ko Phi Phi in peak season will probably find Lipe's crowds and development mild in comparison. Of course, many will ask if mass tourism is sustainable on both of these and many other islands. Are they too gorgeous for their own good?

Should limits be set on the number of travellers allowed on Lipe at any one time? Possibly. Should regulations on development and waste management be introduced and enforced? Certainly. And these issues are not confined to Lipe alone. Throughout Southeast Asia, dozens of destinations face similar questions. We hope that common sense, rather than greed and carelessness, guide the answers.